Papez

If you have 93 favorit with 4x100 bilt pattern, it should be very similar to Felicia - i think there were slightly different front discs due to ABS on Felicia. nope, Favorit is pre-VW development, so most VW parts won't fit. You need Ford calipers, because Favorit used the same Girling licenced calipers. Disc brakes (or bigger discs) won't necessarily add braking force, it all depends on balance, especially when limiting valves are involved. Mix and matching brakes from different cars might indeed throw balamce off. However it dramatically improves heat dissipation, which might be benefical even with the stock engine.

well, the original engine is nothing special. As long as they manage to fit new engine without hacking the frame, it can be always turned back to the original. Speaking of that, 1.2 engine has MQ200 gearbox - 5-speed variant could be compact enough to fit into original mounting points.

ah, so you are not planning to use the original gearbox? in that case, you could get some inspiration from 1.8T transplant threads around here. The Golf seems to be a bit easier mechanically - quick glance through the videos, he mentions that belt driven TSI (EA888?) fits old 02A gearbox. Skoda gearbox in Felicia makes things a bit more complicated.

The 1.2 has 77kW/175Nm. And it should be quite reliable once the timing chain is sorted out. 1.9D is limited by its injection system turbo doesn't help that much (1.9TD had some 55kW?) Turboing the 1.3 is better The biggest issue with 1.2TSI will be electronics. I'm not sure if it can work without other system connected to CAN bus. Also, they have different bolting pattern to old EA111 engines used in 6N Polo - I'm not sire if either Felicia adapter fits.

doesnit have AC? If not, then it's probably faulty thermal switch on the radiator.

That's great I think this is how it should've been from the factory..

Did you drive the car after filling up the coolant? there are ton of bubbles in the circuit and they might need more flow to get out. The chamber where the switch sits is one of the places where air pockets might stay for a while. When my head gasket leaked, non-functional radiator fan was one of the first symptoms I noticed. Also, the temp reading on the head might be some 5-10° higher than switching temp, especially if the circuit is cold - that's due to placement of the switch at the coldest place of the circuit, compared to sensor at the hottest place in the circuit. I used 88° switch from Estelle and it went off at ~95°.

Good one! Maybe you could describe the photo as example how Not to do it :D The cables should be acessible if you remove the black portion of the dashboard.

Did you doublecheck the position? It looks like the oil channel hole is on the oposite side..

hose and the metal pipe - incidentally in the exact shape that would be needed to connect hose to the 1.6 rad. And they also had to make new radiator anyway to fit 1.6 fan It just seems easier to figure out 1.6 rad connection. Btw, what brand is the new rad? Some "alternatives" might have lower fin density, which could be problematic on a car with AC.

that radiator hose is pretty cramped there... I always wondered, why they just didn't use 1.6 rad with outlet on the left side?

What's wrong with your gearbox? Maybe there's a chance to repair it. Basically any Felicia (and Favorit) gearbox will physically fit - ofcourse, different engines had different gearing and 1.6/1.9 boxes had some reinforcements to support heavier engines. Modified variant of the gearbox was also fitted to VW models - Octavia 44kW, Fabia 44/50kW and Lupo AHT - but I'm not sure what it'd take to fit them into Felicia, especially the Fabia one with hydraulic clutch cylinder and bowden gearchange linkage.

atleast they didn't use plastic bearings (looking at my 02T gearbox)

no, 085 gearbox was designed for 1 liter engine back in 70's. It almost falls apart when it's paired with AEE and AEF engine. Skoda gearbox was developed for 100hp 1.6 (which was never produced) and can handle even more powerful engines - there is a turbo Favorit with 240Nm.

Make sure it's completely sealed. Water get's everywhere regardless ofnundertray and only little is needed to corrode the contacts. I had to replace whole blower wiring because of that... There are sealed relay/fuse boxes available, they might make the job easier

Both in case of 1.3, as it uses fan from non-ac 1.6. I can understand reason behind that, as neitherrelay and switch are 100% reliable (espwcially in the engine bay environment) and putting them in series increases chance of failure. I don't think this is good place for unit with exposed contacts, I'd put it closer to the battery or get enclosed relay box. (ideally both)

In case of R2, you'd be driving it indirectly through R4, if you kept the current wiring - iirc, it's same on the factory AC. In case of R1 - yes, it is better for the thermoswitch, but not necessary consodering there's a resistor that limits in-rush current (non-ac cars drive the fan directly without the resistor). Ofcourse, if there's not sufficient wiring, it's better to add the relay.

Sorry, I didn't have time to look up schematics, but I have some points based on your diagram: - the old fan connection looks correct. I'm not sure what's the reason behind diode - both switches on R4 are mechanical, there's no need for protection. So, R2 is not needed. - the R1 relay is also not needed, the switch is capable to operate the fan directly. Also, there seem to be too many fuses. The 30A at start should be sufficient, as long as you keep correct gauge throughout the whole circuit.

What's the difference between neighbouring inserts? IIRC, there was a limit, too and it is more critical than absolute value. Edges of adjacent liners should be perfectly in level.

Nice, do you have some more pictures of the mount? The engine looks like it was meant to be there. Except for the two filter boxes Is there any good looking solution to that?

Nice, looks that all sealing surfaces (especially around fire rings) are intact. That should hopefully work Do you have any ways to measure the liner protrusion?

This is actually used on racing Skodas

Looks like the head was eaten by the coolant a bit. What coolant were you using? Are you going to get it skimmed?

I had intercity consumption (30km trips, with few kilometers in low traffic city) of about 5,5-6,5, depending on driving style. If I reset trip computer after warm-up, it could fall to 5, short trips around 10km were up to 7l - these engines are hungry when cold 😀. But all was in ideal conditions - low altitude and flat terrain. The least I ever got on a long intercity trip (150km) was 5,3. I can believe that city consumption will be twice of that.

What power/torque do you expect after mods? Felicia gearbox can handle 1.9TD - and I'm not sure if you can get more from AEF due to indirect injection. Only other gearbox that fits AEF is Polo 085 - which is weaker than Felicia. Other VW vehicles had diesel motors slanted backwards, which would mean more extensive modifications.