Papez

KR would be probably similar to 2.0 from Fabia. The biggest problem is intake, as engines in Felicia are mounted angled forward, while large VW engines are slanted backwards. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/105441-felicia-20-engine-transplant-thread/

Is there any more info available on the conversion?

Depending on the engine variant, there might be a difference in gear ratio (pickup being the shorter one), but for example all 50kW 1.3MPI are the same.

I'm not sure whether MK3 golf kit fits the rear of the pickup - unlike passenger Felicias or MK3 golf, pickup has separate damper and spring.

Are the engines really that rare? AEF was used in the 6N Polo, AEE and its derivatives in MK3 Golf, 6K Ibiza/Cordoba/Inca/Caddy and 6N Polo.. The engine would fit mechanically, gearbox has different mount - it can be swapped from pre-1999 Felicia. But all funs were MPI and SPI engines are not compatible with the system due to lack of the knock sensor mount.

No. While early fabias used a 1.4 Skoda engine and gearbox derived from the one in Favorit/Felicia, so many changes were done that the Favorit drivetrain wouldn't fit without heavy modifications.

I didn't realize you have a diesel - yes, one of the relays and fuse is for the 2nd speed of the fan, but I don't know which one

In that case, I'm not sure if it's connected through the R7 relay or directly to the battery. Have you tried to short the temperature switch connector to see if it's not a faulty switch?

The headlights are operated by the R1 relay. High/low beam is switched directly in the stalk lever. However, if you have also issues with the fan (I assume you mean ventilation), it might be caused by the relieving relay (X/R7) or burned out fusebox (check for dampness under the dashboard)

I found a video that shows the repair on an ABU engine (it should be similar to the AEE). It is also possible to change the seals without removing the head, but that requires a skilled technician

Is it a 1.6? These engines often ingest oil through valve stem o-rings, as they become hard over time.

under the coolant pump, it's return pipe from the radiator. MPI one is slightly different, it has only one inlet for the heater return hose, SPI/carburettor has an extra inlet for Intake preheating.

I think that's for the warm air intake, I think this is a 1.6 box. The photo is from the internet, It was just best one to show the Venturi tube.

Yes.

the part with larger cross section than TB speeds up the air? If that's the case, why they didn't make a gradual change of cross section, like the adapter you linked?

My guess is that it slows down the air before the sharp turn. It's more like a small plenum chamber with a 56mm outlet than a bent pipe.

Also, there's not much space above the throttle body, which is the reason why the factory cover is shaped in this way - I'm not sure whether would a normal L bend pipe fit. But I've seen people cutting off all the extra material, leaving only the pipe - like this. But you can see that there's not a big difference.

There's no engine cover on the 1.3 engine. It barely covers the throttle body. It's an intake pipe. The extra material is there only to create some structure between the mountings. If it was intended as an engine cover, it'd look more like this.

wouldn't the two fans interfere that way? The stock fan seems to have quite bad geometry, couldn't some modern fan with a better geometry do a bit better job?

The body shouldn't cover the rad - the plastic shroud on the passenger side is cut away with the 1.6 rad. Unfortunately that's where the condenser pipes are run in your car.. If the cooling is sufficient right now, it's probably not worth it. If you can get a good quality replacement once the original rad loses efficiency, it's not worth either. Only if you cannot keep the temps in control, it'd be worthy to invest in a larger radiator and all the mods that are needed to fit it. But in that case, I'd jump straight to the 1.9D.

I know, I meant its shape, they are often covered with rust 😁 Yes, I know, 1.3 without servo or AC had just fan with a ring around it, which cooled only small portion of the rad. I meant pipe to the condenser pipes/hoses. I still had the original rad. It still worked most of the time and I wasn't sure which brand would be a good quality replacement 😁

Where does the upper pipe go? I can't see it in the photo. But that fan shroud looks nice Enough cooling - there were instances where my Felly didn't have enough cooling (highway, 120kph, uphill, 30°C), even without condenser covering whole rad 😁

It seems that if you moved the radiator to the left, it'd be covered by metal - negating the difference in area.. Only solution would be to route the condenser pipes properly, following the factory installation - which would be probably quite expensive. @Thefeliciahacker Do you have, by any chance, an installation manual for the Alex AC unit for 1.6/1.9? It'd help to see their solution of the issue.

That's what I meant. I guess it's something like 20° at 50km/h. You don't add heat, but you decrease efficiency of the rad by putting hot condenser in front of it. By accumulating a few kilojoules of heat when it's running without cooling.

That's why it's regulated by a thermostat valve. The radiator often needs to dissipate more heat than the engine produces due to thermal capacity. Also, I have no idea how it's calculated, but it'll dissipate less heat during higher temps/lower speeds. The diesel is indirect injection with pre-combustion chamber - that means that more heat goes into coolant (and less into exhaust), which is why it has the largest radiator of the three.