Papez

How much worn out? My engine had 300k km on odo and still could go for 5,4l/100km on long trips within speed limits. Slightly above 6l/100 was norm, and I never went beyond 7l/100. Another felly with 250k+ was the same. Wear usually isn't issue with these engines. MPI goes quite rich during heating up. So I'd suggest to check temperature sensors, both coolant and intaike air. New lambda sensor doesn't mean it's functional, there can be faulty wiring, too. These things have to be checked with diagnostics, before you start with swapping parts. Also, haven't you changed headgasket recently?

From what I've found, late AFH has direct drive oil pump, while older type has chain driven. Crankshaft, sump and some other parts are different, I'm not sure about block.

What do you mean by "old"? Gearbox pattern? Afaik, AFH was only available in cars with 085 gearbox (Polo 6N, Ibiza 6K, Lupo) Split to two variants happened on aluminium 1.4 engines (AUA, AUB, BBY...) and 1.6 engines (AEE, AVY..) here is difference between Felicia and Octavia AEE And in this topic between AFK (Lupo aluminium 100HP) and AUB (Polo 9N 100HP) https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/333514-aub-engine-code-what-gearbox-will-fit/?tab=comments#comment-2624619

I'm not sure if anyone tried it, since service manuals for alloy blocks suggests, that removing crankshaft leads to crankshaft bearing seat deformation. Also, VW didn't make alloy EA111 1.6 until introduction of FSI with modified block, so I'm not sure, if 16V block is strong enough for high power mods. Looking into manual of 6K Seat Cordoba, it seems that difference between alloy 16V 1.4 and iron 8V 1.6 is 13kg. I'm not sure how exact it is. If you wanted to try it, you need to know that there are actually two variants of EA111 blocks - one for 6k Ibiza/Cordoba, 6N/6N2 Polo and Lupo , with mounting pattern for 085 gearbox. These should fit to Felicia gearbox plate. Fabia, newer Polos, MK4 golfs (and 6 speed Lupo GTI) and other newer models have 02T gearbox with different pattern, but engine code is same.

Yes, it works like that on newer cars, too. 2nd speed is controlled by pressure sensor in refrigerant circuit, so it kicks in only when AC is under load.

Both problems can be caused by gas bubbles in circuit. Most common cause is bad head gasket.

I think it became standard around 1996. If you want to be 100% sure, you can take key apart and check if there's immobiliser chip (sorry for picture quality)

@Ledningen few months back I've been looking for one for colleague. No luck, they were sold out everywhere. You can try to find some used from breakers yard. Burnt fusebox is often consequence of leaking windscreen, so check insulating foam under dashboard if it's not damp.

@RicardoM that doesn't show on phone sadly.

People who ask for help on forum can make mistakes. That's why one must choose most relevant info and ignore the rest or ask for confirmation. Especially if some detail is never mentioned in topic (model year in this case). Clinging on details will just lead to misunderstandings. I didn't try to troll, I just relied on information from this topic only.

Factory installed AC has dual thermoswitch - 95°C for slow speed, 102°C for high speed, independetnt on AC which switches fan based on operation and pressure. Retrofit kits were quite wild in this area, i've even see second thermoswitch on radiator input or second fan mounted on evaporator. Your variant sounds reasonable and close to OEM variant, it could solve Mohamedelbana's issues.

It might be for you. But for me it's not because I worked with what the 'customer' gave me in his first post. Wrong year. But now have proper information. Is it necessary to continue in arguing instead of helping?

I found 280mm 300W fan from Passat, that could fit into 1.6 mount. Part no. 8D0 959 455 C. But it'll require new wiring and 1st speed resistor, maybe even relays, since it has double power of original fan. Still, it's weird that original fan is not strong enough. It's way more powerful than non-AC variant, which covers only small portion of rad, still, it is capable to keep car at 90°C in 35° weather. Does it engage 2nd speed when temps go up? From your description it sounds like it's running on low speed only. Also, there should be about 1cm space between radiator and AC condenser

Those informations are irrelevant if he's holding 8 pin switch. Deviations from official documentation during transition period are not impossible to happen, especially in Vrchlabí and Kvasiny, where pickups were made.

What fan do you have in your car? One I posted earlier, 6 blades, two speeds and large shroud?

I WAS talking about pins 🙄 Rear fog light switch is same as hazard light switch from MY1998. I did backlighting change several years ago, i sourced switches from older model which I converted to LED. After change, rear fog light didn't work, because replacement switch was 5-pin. Before I finished foglight switch, I used old hazard light switch with swapped cap and it worked. All I have is factory wiring diagram in Czech laid over several pages, I don't have acces to my PC to create full diagram in english. But here's atleast page with switch so you can see that 7 pins really are connected.

Newer models have 8-pin switch for rear fog lights. Your diagram is for models before 1997-8

That or BMM/carb coolant pipe, which has extra inlet, originally for intake heating - Fabia and Lupo OHV have similar solution.

You created "radiator for warm climates" mentioned earlier Combining inlet/outlet from 1.3 and 1.6 won't work, because 1.3 is divided to 2 chambers in ~1:2 ratio, while 1.6 is divided in half, coolant flows differently in it. It is possible to connect 1.6/1.9 radiator without modifications, but you need to figure way to connect expansion tank hose somewhere into coolant pump suction side + some extra hoses and wires

Do you have some pictures? If there is some tropical AC radiator, it's not 6U0121251C, which has same dimensions as non-ac. This is how it looks like with fan installed. In 1.6, about 10cm of radiator are not covered. Photo is from ad selling parts from Felicia 1.3 with factory AC

Nothing, AC wasn't available for 1.9D from factory. Only aftermarket sets exist, but they're rare. I think that outlet hose is reason why 1.3 didn't have larger radiator. Even with small 1.3 rad it must've been rerouted to clear compressor. Larger radiator was available - that variant for warm climates, which is basically 1.6 rad with 1.3 header/fioter.

No they didn't. Only difference between AC and non-AC version are mountings for fan - because 1.3 AC has 1.6 radiator fan, which has shroud covering whole rad's area. Chinese radiators have mounting points for both variants, but I've read reports, that they are problematic with AC cars because of lower cooling fins density. If sourcing of original radiator is problematic, I'd consider rebuild to larger radiator from different car. Ideally 1.9D Felicia, which was used in 1.6 with AC Btw, does radiator run when AC is running?

There's high chance that lambda, or its wiring, is cause of your issue, but as RicardoM said - without diagnostics might end up changing half of engine before real cause is found.

Here is pin description from retrofit tutorial on feliciaklub.cz Nahoru/dolu - up/down switch contacts. Nezapojeno - not connected Zapalovani - ignition switch Cable colors: RU - red CE - black SE - grey HN - brown

It depends what you mean by "better". For performance, I'd go with post-facelift 1.3/50kW MPI, it's shortest one (~2700RPM at 90km/h). But 1.6 has few modifications for better strength (reinforced case, insert on 3rd gear) which might be handy with strong engine.