Papez

I don't think the bumpstop was the root case, more likely it's a symptom. Dampers shouldn't bottom out regularly, the fact that they aren't extended on your photos may suggest they were far from the best condition.

Here is some info from the service mnual. 14S was the older type, used until January of 1998 (I'm not sure about exact date). The year of manufacture is marked on the 2nd position of the gearbox number, gearboxes with X, Y, 1-4 are made after 1998, meaning they are likely 14SK. Clear identification is by the shape of the 5th gear cover, you can see it in images below: The differential ratio is on 4th position of the gearbox number, unfortunately there's no distinction between 3.350 and 3.579, both are mareked with number 1 on a 1.9D gearbox. Supposedly pickups used the 3.579 variant, 14SK unified the ratios and it's the shortest variant of all types. 1.6 petrol in its longest variant used 3,833 fitfth and 0,756 differential ratio, so it's slower than any 1.9D variant.

Felicia gearbox was designed for 140Nm - 1.6TD is close, so it should handle it. Gearbox depends on ratio you have and one you want to swap, there were different variants.. I'd keep 1.9 one, if it's the one with long gear ratios. There were some 1.9TD conversion and the engine itself fit, problem is with intake manifold, since the engine is designed to be mounted leaning backwards, but in Felicia, it leans to the front, the intake ilends up being too high, so that needs some modifications. I'm not sure what other differences are on the 1.6 engine.

VW engines were mounted a bit higher to lift the oil pan, but the 1.3 engine was the same. The engine bushing has 76mm diameter, a collapsed bushing may do ~2cm difference. Felicia 1.6 dampers may take care of that - there was 20kg difference between those 2 and some higher equipped 1.3 Felicias had them from the factory, according to the service manual.

New doesn't mean good. Dampers may have different damper rate. Now when we are talking about it, when I bought my car, it had some aftermarket, extremely stiff dampers with very similar behaviour that you're describing. They also had smaller body, so the front wheels had 2° camber angle. The engine mount is identical between Favorit and Felicia. The only difference is the rubber bushing, favorit's is more likely to collapse under the engine's weight. The gearbox mount is entirely different, so it's hard to say, but I doubt there is a difference. Felicia is also quite low under the bell housing, skidplates were quite popular acessory for lowered cars.

Air shock. The car is quite heavily modified Felicia Fun. @Skury was active on this forum, so he might tell more 5 bolt on the rear is the easier part, since 93 Favorit and Felicia use the entire brake assembly from MK3 Golf. The front is the issue, because it's specific for Favorit/Felicia, which is why the front conversion needs parts from different brands. There's something wrong. I was quite often skidding with front mudflaps, without hitting the bumpstop.

It can be done, I found this on Czech Facebook page But if I'm not mistaken, with exception of the 288mm variant, Fabia has the caliper bracket as part of the hub. Same case with other VWs with small vented brakes. I didn't mean the exact same part, but some reputable brand. Bosch isn't exactly brand focused on making brake components. One thing I forgot about the Renault brake discs - they need the center bore to be enlarged by ~1mm, it's not a straightforward conversion either.

I think I had Bosch on my car once and they were quite prone to fading. But it was quite a long time ago, so I'm not sure. But I'd give @Thefeliciahacker's advice a try.

If you have car without AC, the resistor pack is in the engine bay, on the right side of the heater box (in the driving direction) - you'll se wiring loom going to it.

I looked up Clio discs and apart from the main diameter, they appear to have same dimensions as the Williams variant, which is usually used for 260mm conversion. You can check ATE catalogue, PN 420125. Problem with the Clio discs is, that they require spacers under the brake calipers, because they are 5mm shallower than the stock discs. That may also require spacer under wheels or different ET.

The stalk itself is the switch between low and high beams. If high beams work normally, it's probably bad contact in the stalk.

I think there was also an option for vented discs of the original size, with calipers from sierra/fiesta? But I don't know if there are some proper discs available.

The charge lamp is in series with alternator excitatuon wire on Favorit and Felicia. On older cars, alternator wouldn't work if the bulb was burned, Felicia has a bypass resistor, not sure about Favorit. @ozanozten06's issue may indicate faulty regulator, or problem with wiring.

It actually sounds more like something Skoda could've done themselves - Felicia + ARC engine would make a nice RS version.

There must've been something wrong if it wasn't, those numbers aren't that far from the stock ARC/AVY engine.

Does the 1.4 Fabia crankshaft help with resonance? It appears that it's a bit more rigid between main bearings, and most powerful builds run them. Anyway, it's quite amazing that the owner of the car from the video have been able to transform the anvil that VW called an engine into such monster.

It's not THAT bad, the lower end is stil above the stock, at least according to their graph Ironically, at least in my case, 4000 RPM was better than 3500 - there was some sort of resonance around that speed. Without mass damper on the right driveshaft, it was even worse, at 3000RPM.

Chip alone doesn't do much. Reputable modders at least change the camshaft - MPI has a little reserve here, since the factory targeted to improve low RPM torque compared to SPI unit. For example Motor Excel provided camshaft+remap for ~60kW, but it moved the peak torque above 4000RPM. Anything beyond that became just increasingly more expensive for smaller improvements. Edit:Source - live site is not available anymore

Especially braking. Non-vented 239mm front brakes are barely sufficient for the stock car.

No, Felicia doesn't have ignition on the iso plug, both wires are battery +12V. You need to make sure that your head unit doesn't consume much power when it's powered off. There's not much that could be done with the 1.3 engine without spending a lot of money. The air cone may actually hurt the engine, since the stock box has quite good cold intake solution and was designed for a more powerful engines.

You don't need new cap, just the seal that goes around it - original PN is 047103487

@memoliI don't understand your reaction, are you expecting we will be pulling dashboards out of our cars and figuring everything out for you? I've spent quite some time trying to search the answer, posted here all I found and advised how to do the rest and all I got for thanks is a facepalm emoji? Way to go! Good luck with your project.

I didn't find any documentation.. you can figure it yourself. since you need to remove the cluster anyway, you can connect it and check each LED and flip it, when needed, before you reassemble the dasboard. Other method would be tracing the lines.

I found something. Pictured from the instruments side. The description says, that for indicator lights, negative is on the top, positive on the bottom.

OBD port was added in Felicia with MPI engines. Even if Favorit had OBD port, it wouldn't help, since its ECU manages just the engine and nothing else. Fuel injected Favorit's only had proprietary diagnostic port. Skoda-parts.com still has washer pump made in CZ, if you don't mind higher price and shipping costs. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/115930290-windscreen-washer-pump-czech-republic-1867.html