Papez

Not tappets, pushrods. Injected 135/136 engines have aluminium pushrods for intake, steel for exhaust.

I haven't heard of any factory cooler on front-engined Skodas, do you have some more info? A relatively common modification is oil/water heat exchanger from VWs - an aluminium cube that fits between the oil filter and the engine block. It only requires custom tube to fit the oil filter and some pipe work for coolant. This already solves the temperature regulation issue and it's good enough for more powerful engines, so it should work.

Not always, various broken plastic parts in the housing can make the valve inoperable even when the core works. The car I'm refering to has broken plastic part that the valve pushes against to open, so it was stuck closed.

I'm not sure which part fails when the thermostat doesn't close, but I had failed thermostat in closed state on a 1.4 VW engine and option A fixed it.

Older models can be opened with a string. Newer models have a small cover around the locking pin, that might be harder.

Yes, you can put a plate there, but due to play in the linkage and engine movements, the slots won't correspond - Felicias often has problems to fit into rectangle in the center console 😁 Maybe, if you converted the gearbox to cable shift with tight tolerances, (check Octavia AZE or Lupo AHT), you'd have some chance with this idea.

The difference between Testarossa and Felicia, among other things, is, that testarrosa doesn't have a meter long sloppy linkage between the gearstick and the gearbox.

The Polo gearbox is PoS, so Felicia would be a better choice. However, you need the adaptor plate and flywheel that were used in 1.6 Felicia to make the AEE work with Skoda gearbox.

I had exactly the same experience - it was the ignition switch. It was just ocassional malfunction at first, it became more common over time. Ended up not being able to start at all - luckily it was next to a shop with electric equipment, so I could get a piece of wire to connect the starter directly to 12V. Curiously, I could sometimes hear clicking of the starter solenoid - guess that switch let some current pass through, but not enough to pull the contacts.

Have you tried swapping back the old crankshaft sensor? It still sounds like the new one isn't working.

As long as you have functional thermostat and cooling fan system, right pressure, no gas in the system and working radiator, it doesn't matter what liquid is in the system. Coolant has two jobs - anti-freezing and anti-corrosion.

I was quoting @D.FYLAKTOS who's confusing timing belt with auxiliary belt. AEE is an interference engine, which means that snapped belt will lead to rather expensive damage. So keep factory service intervals.

You have a 1.3 with a timing belt?

Are you ola Škoda already did that 😁 Felicia with EDS used Octavia ABS unit. You can take a look into documentation for inspiration. Are you swapping the Golf gearbox with the engine? The instrument cluster looks great. I always wondered, why Felicia didn't get something more modern than mechanical speedo, VW instruments fit perfectly.

Interesting, it looks like they just put together two auxiliary levers (the one that's in front of the gear lever) and moved the pivot upwards to compensate. It's obviously meant only for hard motor mounts, since it lacks the secondary rod which compensates for engine movements.

My mechanic had an interesting comment, according to him, he never had to adjust valve clearence on gasoline Felicias until ~2010's. Wonder if it's due to age of the cars, or due to changes in fuel quality. Afaik, even carburettor Favorit 135/136 engines had aluminium pushrods on inlet. Did they roll back to steel all around on Felicia?

Even stock distributor is independent from carburettor. It just gives some ignition timing based on few input. ECU can easily replicate this behaviour. Problem is, as you said before, the 123 doesn't have curves for Skoda engine. Vrba's solution is build and programmed specifically for Skoda engines (but I guess it'll be more expensive as well) I'm not saying that 123 cannot be better than the stock distributor - just that no distributor is even better. These engines can have quite loose camshaft timing, so getting the timing chain out of ignition system can only help.

It was originally developed for motorsport, but they have road variants as well, with maps for stock engines. It also uses stock components where it can, the only custom part is the ECU. The main advantage compared to distributor based system is that it takes its ignition timing from the crankshaft, which is more precise.

I found an ignition system specifically made for Skoda engines. They even have version that uses MPI ignition module to get rid of distributor. However, it seems that it lacks any sort of vacuum advancement. https://www.vrbamotorsport.cz/programovatelne-zapalovani Edit: according to this article, they can use throttle sensor for advancement, they also have a variant with pressure sensor for turbocharged engines and for flywheel sensor used on SPI/MPI Felicia (I wonder if carburettor engine uses the same flywheel as injection Felicias?). This would allow you to use the distributor system as a backup.

Found this https://epowering.cz/skoda-felicia-dilenska-prirucka-elektrika/ If you don't mind Czech, "Elektrická schémata" should be a complete bundle of wiring for all variants.

Hi, any progress on this?

This seems to be a standard equipment for all Felicias sold in Germany. I wonder if there were any legislation requirements back then.

A fine mesh can filter out most of that. But yes, it will end up on evaporator. But it needs regular cleaning anyway

G12 should have better corrosion protection, which is crucial on these engines. But you have to flush the engine properly, as G11 and G12 don't mix well. G12+ supposedly mixes better with G11, but I wouldn't risk it.

Or they took inspiration in IT. HDMI and USB naming is just mess.