Papez

No, you don't, you're just overriding the stock switch. There might be a problem that you'll need to hold the switch for a moment until the motor moves.. but solving that would require more than just a diode. Using inputs meant for this would be much easier.

If you're doing it the right way through the central unit, 3-pin or 2 momentary switches is all you need - it works by connecting either contact to ground. For the in-doornvariant, you'll have to figure it out. The wiring diagrams show that lock/unlock is just matter of connecting/disconnecting contact inside the motor to the ground, but doesn't say which is for lock and unlock. Once you figure that out, you have two options - either lock/unlock momentary buttons, one NO, parallel to the motor switch, and one NC, in series with the motor switch (you can use three pin buttons with both sets of contacts). The second option is a 5pin window switch and connect it on relevant contacts. One warning though - it's not safe to put push-to-unlock-switch on the door. It can be easily pushed if you leave window open even with small gap.

The 3 pin switch is just 2 switches in a single body, with 1 common contact. You can just connect 2 contacts for the lower temp, which, iirc, is 3 Deg lower than the standard switch. The pinout should be in wiring diagrams or in datasheet of Metra Šumperk, who manufactured them. The datasheet also contains exact on/off temps as does service manual (Google dílenská příručka if you didn't yet.) Since you're replacing the fan with the factory AC one, I'd also advice to modify the wiring to the two speed variant - the lower speed takes less current during start-up, which means less load on the electrical system and engine. The 2nd speed shouldn't be needed at all with AC off.

I think they have only one "legal" H4 model. "Legal" is in quotes because they are not certified for Felicia headlights, so they are not legal for that use.. but better than nothing at all. Other models are only for sport or off-road use, same like 100W halogens. I know, but doesn't that move brightest part of the beam too close to the car? I always try to get the beam as high as possible without blinding oncoming cars for best visibility.

You'll need to adjust those LEDs way lower.. I tried to crop @Thefeliciahacker's pictures to the same area, that's above the line made by the halogen lamp, which is the part relevant to blinding: The legal LEDs are not ideal either, but much closer to the halogen pattern.

I've seen this test, Osram have 50% more output, so the center looks overblown (especially when halogen is ran in 12V instead of 14V) due to camera settings. But it's apparent that the light is spread more uniformly compared to cheap LEDs. Iirc, it's fabia MK2 headlamp, which is certified, so according to regulations, this is correct pattern.

Cheap LEDs will never have good pattern. The reflector is designed for filament as the light source, si that's where's its focal point (line?) Anything outside this area will mess up the beam pattern. And cheap LED bulbs just use generic LED chips that somewhat reach desired light output, but that requires much larger area. That's what's different in "legal" LED replacements, they use specific technology that's able to get closer to halogen filament shape and light output (part of the reason why they are so expensive, besides brand). However, not the same, which is why they still need to be certified for each vehicle individually. Btw, Osram recently released gen2 of their H7 LEDs, which has wider range of certified cars, maybe they'll have new version of H4 aswell.

I tried to find some info, originally, the yellow sensor was "faster" - not sure if it means that it reports higher temps to the ECU or it has lower heat capacity/better conductivity, but the effect is that the ECU switches earlier from cold/rich mode. It would make sense that AC models had the blue one to account for extra load from the AC compressor.

You can mount an electric motor to actuate the lock to operate it with the remote. Or add a mechanism to unlock the truck with the rest of the car (which Is what I did since Skoda decided to use the second button on the remote in the most useless way possible)

Hi, nice to see another Czech here Have you tried to look up some info from Feliciaklub page and FB group? Regarding the fan, I think that the only difference is capability to run on lower speed - two pin variant had resistor mounted on the fan shroud to run on the low speed (or no resistor to run on full speed only), the three pin variant has low speed function integrated. Regarding the wiring, you can check factory wiring as well. @Thefeliciahacker's diagram looks similar to the factory wiring, it just uses some extra relays, that may be redundant - the factory solution, for example, uses radiator switch to run 1st speed directly, and only one relay to run 2nd speed - pressure and radiator switches are parallel and connected to the relay coil. You have some freedom there, the important part is how it works: 1st speed - triggered by the radiator thermoswitch (low) or AC switch/ compressor clutch signal 2nd speed - triggered by radiator switch (high) or AC high pressure switch It's good that you got the original Autopal radiator - I read that aftermarket radiators might be an issue on 1.3 AC cars due to poor quality and Alex condenser may have pipes situated in a way that collides with a larger radiator

The only positive thing about this is, that in the case of crash, you won't get the key wedged into knee.

Get it checked on diagnostics, one of temp sensors might be bad, but there's no reason to change sensors without confirmation..

Exactly, most cars made in the past 30 years (including Felicia) use bumper grille for the radiator inlet, the top grille is mostly cosmetic.

Yes, there are 5 wires going to the door lock motor, 2 are to move the motor, 3 are for switch that provides lock/unlock signal for the locking unit. You need to somehow add another switch that won't interfere with the original switch. Full schematics would probably help, since the locking unit only show 2 wires for switches.

The removal of the instrument cluster should be a 10 min job, if you did it before... An alternative would be manipulation with the switch inside the servo. According to the diagram, closing of the switch will send "lock" signal, opening will send "unlock" signal. So you'll need one push button in parallel to bridge the switch for "lock", and one in series to disconnect it for "unlock".

Correct. You can see part of the wiring diagram.

No, it's on the firewall, behind the instrument coaster. It must return into center position. There are switches for that purpose, with right diagrams, it'd be best to use those.

It's right on the central locking unit: DO means remote unlock (Dálkové Odemknutí), DZ means remote lock (Dálkové zamknutí). The functions are activated by connecting them to the ground. You need either two push switches or a 3 position switch, similar to window switches.

Check the yellow wire on the starter motor. It controls X-relay, which disconnects mentioned devices when the starter is activated. Since the issue is dependent on engine movement, it's very likely that it's broken somewhere. The other option would be grounding of the engine, but that should be fine since you changed the negative battery cable.

Do you remember how I told you to check the part of the thermostat housing? This happens when it's damaged - the pin is supposed to push against the plastic in the centre, if part of it breaks, the pin just goes straight through and thermostat doesn't open. I had this exact issue on a similar VW engine. You also mentioned that radiator is cold, while both tubes are warm - is the radiator colder than the bottom tube?

That's just heating ant ventilation, AC has extra buttons for cooling and recirculation, like this Or like this That's for headlamp washers. Check this part in the thermostat housing

@Felicia98noob from what I can see, your car doesn't have AC. That means that radiator fan is switched directly by the switch in the radiator. It also kicks in rather late, when temp gauge shows around 105° - (+-5° or more, since these switches can drift quite a lot with age)

Looks like factory brace - they were standard on cars equipped with airbag. @Felicia98noob can you make a pic of the entire engine bay?

@Felicia98noob f

Colder than the output hose? Photo would help, there are more types of AC. Factory type has relays and fuses near activated charcoal canister, on the opposite side from the battery.