SurreyJohn

Some dealerships are bad, have poorly trained staff, and treat customers as mugs. Go back to them, ask what quantity would be overfilling when needs adblue warning, then say that’s less than on my adblue receipt so how did it get overfilled, or was the sensor you previously looked out not fixed properly. Then ask them if they failed to fix previously why does that mean no longer covered by warranty. Or is not under warranty in this circumstance an error on their part. Don’t be surprised if the telephone person cannot find anyone in whole dealership that knows the overfill quantity (the technical section of Octavia brochure says adblue tank holds 13.35 litres)

Because the Sportline is all looks, comes with uncommon tyre size for looks and vanity is expensive. The versions with smaller wheels use common tyre sizes that are cheaper. And if your local roads are more ruts and potholes, rather than as smooth as a billiard table those with deeper sidewalls ride much better. Uncommon tyre sizes have other problems, lack of choice, unlikely to be any in stock at local tyre centre if you have a puncture etc. If it annoys you plenty of other size wheels available, see attached (and then compare the price of the tyre size 215/55 R17 for the 17 inch wheel to your size) https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b

LEDs generate very little heat so won’t cause condensation to evaporate. There are only two solutions, in summer park facing the sun, or at this time of year park your car in your garage, stick some of those moisture attracting crystals as near as practical to each unit and hope the warmth of garage draws out the moisture which is then absorbed. There is a third option, spend loads and get replacement units. But clearing your garage of junk and parking in it is lot cheaper.

Most of the mechatronics issues were in units built 10 years ago. Very few problems reported these days There are suggestions that if you do lot of city driving, and starts to get jerky then a fluid change will help. But this seems to be over about 90,000 miles (over 150,000km) and might not happen. Actually hear of lot more problems in wet clutch and Haldex units where fluid changes missed or not done properly

Don’t forget if you upgrade the brakes, you will only get the benefit if you fit appropriate seasonal tyres. If tyre’s don’t grip at relevant air temperature then having best brakes in the world isn’t going to make any difference

There are options in some of the other models (new brochures dated 4th October 2022) are online for all the current models. I did wonder if it is to do with extra weight, as iV models are heavier, by about 100-150kg, however the tyres weight rating is 91. But then I noticed in the technical specs at the end of the brochures that iV models get different tyres. For Octavia, SE spec get 205/60 R16 92V, SEL (except iV) get 205/55 R17 91V low rolling resistance SEL (iV) get 205/55 R17 91V vRS (except diesel) get 225/40 R19 93Y sporty vRS (diesel versions) get 225/40 R19 93Y xl I am guessing the low rolling resistance or sporty tyres are what they have done their emissions cert on, and they do not want to test with different grade of tyre for iV versions. The iV models have their WLTP results in different column in those technical pages as they use different test method. Perhaps doing tests for hybrids is lot of extra faff.

The new UK Octavia brochure has the rough road package as raising the height by 15mm. Therefore possibly longer springs

I am just wondering if the DPF has over time filled with ash and soot, and the volume is now too much for a regen to burn off. I might be wrong, but using Eco mode and keeping engine under 2000rpm, is probably not going to get it hot enough to fully clean the DPF. My hunch is when lockdown started there was already a partial residue that hadn’t been burned off, and the short lockdown journeys added to it. Subsequently never been able to shift this old stubborn buildup and further buildup has accumulated. I suspect the forced regen cannot clear 3 years of residue, so the only option is to clean (or replace) the DPF unit. Unfortunately I think your DPF has been collateral damage of lockdowns, not that you could have predicted it, or diesel being about 18p (11%) more expensive than petrol (which with your 14k miles per year average, makes diesel a bad choice due to extra cost). I think all you can do is try and find a good DPF cleaning company and not going down the dealers expensive replacement route, or waste any more money trying to force a regen (which is only going to be very temporary)

@CaptainDun I am guessing the forcing regens were to try and clear the DPF. It clearly was too full for it to work (but just about cleaned enough to work for short while) What I am unclear on, is if the DPF is full of ash, or has failed and broken up inside thus blocking the exhaust. What is the history of the car, have you had it from new, or did you buy it later (when and what mileage). What have your journey patterns been like, is it a town runabout, or used for long journeys (or if a mix try and describe them). This info might help people understand how it might have got the problems and what needs to be done. As @varooom has said might be worth a full clean, before go down replacement route. Might be worth making a Ceremex enquiry (note I have never used them so no idea if any good)

New Octavia brochure has been issued I might be imagining things, but the range and the options list seem to have shrunk prices now £23,650 - £38,285 (before adding options) https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/0bcfc2d5-654f-49b2-a524-91e141293e36

I think these are the sizes 195/60 R16 89H (winter tyres only or emergency spare) 640mm diameter 205/60 R16 92H (653mm diameter) 205/55 R17 92V (658mm diameter) 215/50 R17 91V (1.5 tsi only, but not in UK), 648mm diameter 215/45 R18 89V (650mm diameter) Winter or all season tyres often come with higher load ratings One thing I would check is if the bigger sizes actually fit in the wheel well, doesn’t look like more than a few mm spare, perhaps a worn tyre will but one with full tread might not.

Luckily the last time we had snow in the South (and I don’t mean a token dusting), most people stayed off the roads and it was easy to drive around any cars parked or abandoned at the bottom of any slope or hill. Near Bath (nearest City to where I live) there are some quite serious hills to get out of the Avon valley, one north of the city is called Freezing Hill Lane which is self explanatory. When it rains, the rain tends to run across the road so having good grip in cold rain is important.

So is the idea, pick an obsolete tyre, crash the car in snow (if you can even get it moving), then explain later why you thought it was an interesting idea. I put that one in same bucket as putting superglue on the steering wheel to help you grip it. Or perhaps marmalade from Paddington bear (seeing as you like bears when you drive)

There is about 4-5mm difference between new tread and worn tyres (which equates to 8-10mm diameter difference) so there is no point in even thinking about a 2mm diameter difference. Winter tyres often have deeper treads (7.5mm - 8mm) so overall difference might turn out to be under a mm In Germany (which has rather faster roads than we do), the vRS comes with 18 inch or 19 inch wheels so don’t worry about the smaller size not being ideal https://www.skoda-auto.de/_doc/eca163c1-4852-4720-a282-e37d5ba932a8

@John-S here is the link to Skoda wheels catalogue, might be worth looking at the Superb section, then trying each of the names on an online Google shopping search (other brands available), or e bay etc. Might find something at a good price. https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b references to III or IV are mark 3 or mark 4 (do not confuse with hybrids)

There is very little engine braking on any tsi engine, they are so free running that inevitably will increase speed going down a steep hill. That said, the brakes on modern cars are specified to be able to drive down mountain passes, losing about 1500m (5000 feet) without any problems. There are very few roads in UK where you will get to 20% of that. So don’t worry about 1970s engine braking ideals. The PHEV can use the electric motor in reverse, as a generator, and this provides braking whilst recharging the batteries. In B mode there is a braking effect with right foot off, in D it is more natural coasting. Even if you don’t have flappy paddles, can engage sport mode on a DSG box by flicking lever back, can nudge it to the side and use up or down flicks to manually change gears (the gear display on the dashboard lets you know which mode you are in). Although everyone I know are initially playing with it, tends not to bother with manual mode as leaving it in D is so much easier. So I would suggest don’t worry about it, let the gearbox electronics do the thinking. Unless you are stopped at multi-way traffic lights or a level crossing where not going to move for >20 seconds you probably won’t manually intervene to neutral.

There were some engines where the water pump wasn’t greatest quality, and to change it effectively had to take cam belt off, so was easy to do at same time. Regarding the belt the recommendation is 5 years or 60,000 miles (whichever comes first). However if the belt is showing no signs of wearing, rounded edges, fraying etc then probably ok for another year if nowhere near 60k miles. But if the belt looks glazed or glossy on the back, then the rubber is going hard so could crack/break so get changed soonest. Recently many cars have spent months awaiting finishing since engine was built, but Skoda hasn’t changed to belts at 4.5 years to compensate which really suggests 5 years is more a round number than scientific.

From memory, there were couple of special editions in 2016, then around end of 2016 (or early 2017) the range was rationalised and SE drive and SE-L drive which had extra equipment were added

@John-S You will find the rims will physically fit (they use the same bolt hole spacing and centre bore, however the ET should be nearer 41 on the Superb (this is a centre line offset and determines how far out a wheel is), 9mm from 50 to 41 is tolerable but a few mm more different than optimum For the tyres the Superb is a bigger car and needs the bigger diameter overall. The Octavia mk2 205/55 R16 which have outside diameter of 632mm. But the Superb mk3 should have wheels of about 668mm. A few mm difference doesn’t matter (tread wear changes it few mm), but 36mm (5.4%) is too much (and car would be 18mm lower). If your tyres have a weight rating of 91 could also be in trouble as lowest certified rating for Superb is 92 So really would be better advertising and selling the existing set and buying replacements. I think (but I haven’t checked clearances) could keep existing rims, but change the tyres to 215/60 R16 95V tyres

You will be amazed how many cars are handed over with things turned off, passenger airbag, emergency braking radar etc. Check spare wheel (if specified) or what is under the boot floor, and put a rear seat forward (always indicates how well prepped it is) If you have a tyre pressure gauge (even a pencil type) see what they are set at (even compare the tyres to check about same area is flat against the ground, give away if all inflated differently), don’t forget to check the spare (most salesmen will have a gauge in their desk drawer if you don’t own one.

I was asked similar two or three years ago, at the time it was £12 or £15. But had an option of zero but with the £zero option had to accept a £1000 excess if it was damaged. Since then have opted for while you wait as have had no job over 2 hours, and it would take me over 30 minutes each way to go home. The courtesy cars were nearly always lowish spec Fabia with mpi engines and manual transmission, even if your car was a high spec auto

I take a different approach, once temperatures start to fall below +10c the wet grip on my Pirelli P7 (which car was built with) falls off noticeably. Seems to be nearer +4c in dry. The car just seems better to drive with the winter tyres from about this time of year, might still get a few days of 15-20c, but many nights are already down to 5-10c and with the winters I can drive through cold rain, muddy field run off, even frost and car feels sure footed like driving on a dry road in summer. The notion they are only for snow is madness, we are talking European winter tyres (suitable for cold wet weather), not Nordic or snow tyres that are designed to work where snow exists for weeks/months and can cope at -30c As for cost, yes I bought 4, but currently looking like car will reach 70k+ miles before I need to buy more new tyres. So compared to those who buy 2 new tyres every 20-30k miles, it’s cheaper, partly because they get swapped around each change to even out the wear (and remember the handbook recommends swapping them so shouldn’t just be leaving them on untouched anyway)

Depends on ships schedules, basically have to wait for next ship to UK, could be tomorrow, might be nearer 1-2 weeks. At busy times might not get on first ship. These ships carry few thousand cars (but will also be VWs on it), then tend to go to Sheerness (Kent), Grimsby or Port of Tyne. They can unload in few hours but will take 12-24 hours sailing between each. Then anything from 2-14 days for road transporter to your dealer (depends on how busy, and how many other customers cars your dealer has)

@ZaphodB It looks like Colour edition and Monte Carlo the £1070 is adding Amundsen (& traffic sign, and voice control, care connect for 1 year) but on the SE-L it is only £110 as most of it is already there, and only really gaining the traffic sign recognition. But I agree would have been better if they had just separated them, and just put traffic sign added to Amundsen for SEL spec. As for care connect for 1 year, it is putting it in same category as screen wash, a short term consumable. Not a feature that will still be there and working in a decades time when car is old. Personally the idea that you buy a car and one part will be dead a year later, rather puts me off. They should either remove it, or make it work for at least 10 years.

The trick to reading the specs is ignore the pages with glossy photos, then go to the pages marked Optional Equipment. If it has a black circle it is fitted, a white circle is optional (with cost next to it), a dash means can’t have it in the spec you choose https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/775d73bc-eb9d-4a50-911e-863d73b99333 eg Amundsun is £110 option on SEL, and virtual cockpit (digital dashboard) is £480 on SEL, but standard on colour edition and Monte Carlo