MrAdamwood

Talking of brake calipers, does anyones else's suffer with a click of the front pads when going from forward to reverse? so annoying! Dealer said it was a known issue.

Could be a faulty cam sensor, it manifests itself as a fuel delivery code. there was a faulty batch last year.

we had the epc light come on every so often with no noticeable difference to performance. called Skoda assist to it and it turned out to be a failing cam sensor. get it looked at

Its normal, really bad design.

Natural dampness inside the car, sun warms the car up during the day, then as the sun goes down and the temperature drops the warm moist air inside the car condenses on the windows. Always keep the A/C on and if you remember....try to vent the car at the end of the day as the temperature is dropping to release the damp air.

Our 1.5 TSI SEL always felt "wrong" to drive. Abit jerky, not smooth , lacking power. had the dealer check it out, not surprised at a not fault found result. Then we started to get the EPC light come on, only from a cold start, it would just stay on. cycling the ignition made it go out. it never came on whilst driving and was so irregular when it did show there was no recreating it. Again tried to book into the dealer but couldn't see it for 5 weeks! so I called Skoda assist to it. faulty cam sensor diagnosed and replaced at my house....its a different car! so much smoother more power and more responsive. its obvious to me that the sensor was faulty from the start causing the drivability issues but was still operating just within limits until it started to fail. scuba Steve, I think you were just unlucky that the new sensor you had fitted was faulty...it does happen. if the car is now fixed why are you rejecting it?

mine don't squeak they click! the front pads seem to move up fractionally in the callipers when in reverse which makes a click, very annoying.

Yeah as all the other posts say, the only fix is new blades. The Original ones are plain crap. I’ve just got the Bosch aerotwins recommended above.

Called them on the Wednesday to my house, they were there within the hour. Guy was with the car for about a hour. Ordered the part came back Saturday morning to fit it. He would of come back Thursday or Friday but he had 2 days off and Saturday was convenient for us. given them a ring!... number should be in you handbook pack or on a sticker

It’s important to remember codes are a result of the fault not the cause. we had an EPC light recently, the code said fuel delivery error. Turned out to be a cam sensor. call Skoda assist to it, they diagnosed ours, ordered and returned to fit the part. We literally had to do nothing.

The standard rear window tint we find to be dark enough.

How much capacity do you need? first reaction is I think your going to have to buy a new iPod or iPhone with greater capacity. or you can go modern and stream all your music from itunes in the cloud... you’d need a data plan that is either unlimited or allows unlimited Apple Music streaming like Advanced 3 plans... called go binge.

We have a 1.5tsi SEL new in March 20, it’s always felt a little strange, abit jerky when cold, lacking abit of power till further up the revs. well about 6months in, we started to get the EPC light come on intermittently only on a cold start, turning off and back on it went out every time. Only once a week sometimes once every 2 weeks this happened. Called Skoda assist to it who said it had a fuel delivery code logged, the guy followed his guided diagnostic’s which pointed to a cam sensor fault, ordered and changed the sensor... car is like new! More responsive, no jerking and feels smoother. Result! ultimate test SWMBO drove it.... and I quote “ wow!..it feels so much nicer to drive”

The Karoq has Afs1 which basically means it can adapt the length of the dipped beam depending on speed and uses the fog lights for the low speed cornering function. they do not swivel like the afs2 bi xenons you used to have, so no steer function. the new version of afs2 is called LED matrix and is on the new octavia, the headlights are sort of on full beam all the time but use the camera and radar system to cut out followed and oncoming traffic to avoid dazzling them.

I fail to see how it made your drive less safe? If you don’t like them turn them off or just pay more attention to what’s going on in front rather than what the lights are doing? just because your ok in sunglasses under the trees, an approaching car may be unable to see you and the auto lights actually assisted them? just my opinion 👍

Why don’t you get a tread depth gauge, measure them now, run them for 1000 miles at a given pressure then recheck the depth? Mine did about 2000 miles at 2.2bar and the shoulders are about 1mm more worn than the centre. I also didn’t like how it handled so the wear convinced me to up the pressures. another thing to consider is higher front pressures and lower in the rear. I used to run my Octy Vrs at 2.4 in the front and 2.2 in the back, ride and road holding was much nicer with lower rear pressure. Depends if you regularly carry loads but if it’s just you and a front passenger I’d keep the front higher and lower the rear.

I found mine wallowed at 2.2bar so I’m up at 2.4 (35psi) like you.

It doesn’t measure pressure. It works by monitoring the wheel speed, if a tyre goes down its speed changes and it will flag up a potential issue. It can be fooled but bumps etc.