MrAdamwood

Also controls rear brake bias. so you get more rear braking when you have a heavy load on.

Remove the NS wheel arch liner, check the pump is plugged in, if it is, the pump may be stuck.....make sure the ignition is off. Then turn on the ignition, have someone else get ready to activate the washers.....go and hit the smaller pump with a screwdriver/hammer handle and whilst hitting it get your helper to try the washers. if it doesn't work after a couple of go's you will need to cycle the ignition as the system turns off the circuit as it detects the excessive current being drawn.

Engines get hot, stop overthinking it. If the temperature gauge is in the middle and stays there, alls good. Oil temp can also get up around 110c if towing or pressing on. this is also fine. The many computers on your car will soon tell you if there is an issue.

Washer pump has seized. remove the wheel arch liner, and give it a tap! The pump is £15, easy to change.

Just to clear this up, in the top picture ( orange car ) the daytime running light DRL is split over the 2 levels of the headlight, you can also see the led main unit is a projector type.... this is the matrix version. In the lower picture, the DRL is one bar and goes across the whole light, not dropping down in the lower part. You can also see that the unit is full of reflectors.... this is the standard led version. ( a downgrade on the previous LED version which was a projector (non matrix) version)

Nice! no problem. I'd replace the whole pipe for peace of mind.

On the left side of the engine, between the engine and the coolant bottle is a black square unit that ticks. follow ribbed tube that goes under the engine cover, they split on the bend.

Why are you all driving like this? I don't see the value in allowing the gear selection to drag the engine speed so low? you're not doing your cars any favours? I get that you think you are using engine braking, but at the expense of the engine? brakes are cheaper than an engine! Dip the clutch earlier, use your brakes and select your gears correctly, who slows down in 5th and block changes to 2nd!? Be interesting to know the average age of people experiencing this "issue".

bag hooks on the rails in the boot can be removed.

Follow the ribbed hose that does an S shape over to the engine. They split at the clip on top of the cam belt cover. If you pull it out of the clip you can close the hole and the knock will stop. get the hose replaced.

Its just the climate control working as it should! you set 20c it warms to 20 and maintains it. if you set it to 25 it will get warm again to get the temp to 25 then maintain it. If you get in and the sun has warmed the car and you set the climate to 22, it will cool to 22. might take some getting used to but its working as it should.

Two days? are they taking the mic? mine was done in 3 hrs. I'd push back on that.

My 2020 SEL has the torch in the boot.

Do we know what the differences are between the gen 1 and gen 2 1.5's?

I had this exact problem. Both front door locks changed. oh, and go to another dealer....you shouldn't have to pay for a courtesy car for warranty work. I just waited 3 hrs for mine to be done. its not a massive job, and the dealer should know about the issue.

If you have no warning lights on, all is fine. control systems monitor and record possible faults all the time and commit them to memory if it doesn't progress into an actual fault. Do you have adaptive cruise control? if not then the system is just saying its not visible as you don't have it. sound silly but they don't design management systems with the consumer viewing its reports in mind. If the car isn't telling you there's an issue then all is well.

Can you post a picture of the front with the headlamps and fog lamps on? Are they different colours if the fogs are halogen? they are definitely a downgrade from the first gen Karoq SEL if so. As the headlamps are self levelling and super bright projector LEDs

can you post a video of the noise?

I'd make sure you haven't got a spider living in there near the ultrasonic sensors. had it in an octavia once. re-homed the spider, all good.

Might be a 2 man job, but you need to manipulate the popped out bit so that all of the clips line up. Then give it some hefty slaps and it should all pop back in. notice how the clip in the corner is tapered, its a guide. You need to get it nearly there then be short and sharp with the last bit.

Sounds like a top mount.....there is a modified top mount available, my 2020 has just had both. No noise but sloppy handling. How did Skoda diagnose it? did they put it on a ramp or pit? did they jack it up and use the MOT heel bar under the wheel?....you would hear the top mount with a heel bar. pop it along to a local garage and ask if they can do the above? raise the wheel 2" of the floor and with a large lever (heel) bar shake the wheel up and down. as the suspension is unloaded you will hear it easily

Did you ever get this sorted? what was the issue?

The Dpf is bolted right on to the turbocharger up in the engine bay. not an easy job to get to from underneath.

Good headlights? Halogens? ?? The LED's are fantastic turning night into day. Far better than the HID's I had on the Octy VRS (Although I miss the turning function) Sorry but I think you missed a trick not getting them and opting for the lowly Halogens.

hahaha drug dealer would be more useful! seriously though, is it a known issue? and surely there must be a revised pad design to cure it?