Orchid70

In case the links go dead:

Found it - the cable is the same in eraly and late models. Need to get it out. Reference pictures: https://www.srovnanicen.cz/lozisko-nahon-tachometru-felicia-002409191b+d936754600/ https://www.autoczescionline24.pl/bugiad-8116946.html

As topic says - replacing gearbox. I do not know what year the replacement gearbox is from - owner bought it himslef and the scrapper had had it for 20 years on the shelf. They cut the speedo cable.... In the pic, the black gear is from the car. The old style is under. But, I cannot remove the piece of cable from it. Is it removable or is the speedo gear attached to the cable?? Im afraid to broke it. Havent been able to find any other kind speedo cable online, but the kind, that is mounted on the pick-up (year model -00). How about the axles? Are they going to fit?

Thank you. Not injectors. They can only be heard with a stethoscope - clicking far faster. Theres slight noise from clutch release bearing. Nothing from belt pulleys. Could be that you hear. Valve noise is what I am leaning towards. Owner has a spare engine with gearbox. Because the release bearing is noisy, I most likely going to change chain/gears and check valve guides and replace hole engine.

I want to ask my question in this thread so I perhaps could get an opinion from Ricardo =) I know its 5½ after thread was started. What would the opinion be on this engine noise? Sounds like exhaust manifold leak - but there was no smoke coming out when I put on smoke machine in the O2 sensor hole. Could it be the chain? The engine has 370000 km.... https://youtu.be/gJzT4xKijIA

PM Sent =)

Hi again - there might be way to help =) I have problems getting the Motodiag to work, and not sure Adart Computers can help. Something you have any experience with? If I start a new thread on that?

I needed two hand operation to get everything on place - dont have the finger power, specially after done surgery on the dominant hand, carpal tunnel release. Thank you for the help. Really appreciate it.

Is it not exactly what you though? GOD oh mighty it was NOT fun to get the cables to the air distribution flaps on place. Was just about to cut open the dash insert... But got the clips on place with lång 90 degrees angled pliers from the ashtray hole (the lower flap) and the heater controller hole (the upper flap) and from the glove box hole with all sorts of angles tools to push. Its doing keyhole surgery, blind. Couple of tools to through in the wall is good to have too and loads of swearing, when you loose your temper.....

Fixed. Thank you for the help. Wonder why this happens.... See the the arrow - that pin should be inside the outer plate. LORD it wasnt fun job - and still have to put all back again. Have no idea how Im going to get the plastic clips to the air flow flaps on place..... Always one thing to get clips out and totally other job to get them to attach again.... So what I did: Out with: Dash insert Instrument cluster (had new cable on it so couldnt get off the cable from cluster, took off on the gearbox) - left hanging Glove box insert Loosen all four cables to air control flaps, two in engine bay and two are reached from glove box hole Now I could get off the ash tray insert when heater control panel is loose Attached wires to the cables from engine bay and pulled them inside car And after turning the heater knob, I could get the controller out through instrument cluster hole!

I only have the latest VCDS (original) and any of the old KKL (have one called VAG KKL +Fiat ECUScan, but that did not work with Motoriag), så have ordered a fast KKL from Czech Republic during the Christmas, hopefully I dont have to wait very long. I will try to fix this control panel and lubricate the heater flap. Thats very much what the car owner is all about =) Fix what you have. Thank you so far.

Damn. But its fixable? Does it happen again if I fix it this time? Perhaps its better to buy an other control panel? Also the heater knob is hard to turn - from 12 a clock and back to cold. So, out with the instrument cluster, loosen alla the cables at the flap-ends and get control panel with all the cables still attached to it, out through the instrument cluster hole? How hard is it the attach the cables back to their places again....? Damn, damn, I was just shutting off the fan during the time I was connecting the VCDS and looking some measuring blocks. Problems with throttle, I think. This is not what I was looking forward.

Is there anything I can do without taking the whole control/knob unit out of the dash? I can see the rear of the control has different "plates" that move and the outer part feels like its not where it should be - it doesnt get passed the part where the wire is attached. Ill take movie/pictures tomorrow, its cold like in hell here at the moment.

Resistor is electrical - replaced motor and resistor a month ago. No this is something jamming the knob itself. Cannot physically move it passed "12 a clock" position. Ill take a movie so you understand through a mirror so you can see the rear.

Years later - I am asking where have D.Fylaktos found Elsawin for anything of Felicia? Im stuck with a blower speed knob stuck - it wont turn, I can turn the blower to loooow speed and off, nothing else. Trying to find out where the cable goes to, from the middle knob.

Sorry, had missed this question. (I have a customer that has pickup, where he is using through the clutches within couple of years, an old truck driver - but he filles the car with tools and toes a 2500 kg trailer behind, up och down steep hills and Im not sure these pickups are made for that) There are 1358 of 1.3MPI in Sweden. I cannot see how meny are on the road though. Webasto fitted - no, dont think so. Not in the southern Sweden - perhaps some, that are driven in northern Sweden. And always a immersion type heated if fitted, with a electric socket in the cabin for a electric heater for the cabin. From Calix or DEFA.

Thank you!! Very much. From the pictures, the box is not farm from the ignition lock. Interresting page - will save that one. Didnt know Etka was online, for free.... The key has been found. He had left it in his daily rider.....

Hi all I am looking to raise the rerar of this pickup. Could it be done with 1.6 springs? IF I have somewhat correct info about the aftermarket springs, the 1.3 MPI would have shorter springs?? About 360 mm and 1.6 would have 419 (Monroe). Or, are there reinforced springs to be found somewhere? Owner wants me to but spring clamps on raise the heght.....

That I found before, shows only antenna ring and the transponder inside the key. Box, I havent seen in the video? Thank you though =)

Hi all Cannot find any service info on my suscriptions or the ElsaWin. I need to go to the car owner and take out the immo box and ignition key. Ignition key, no problems - but where is the box located? So I will know what tools to take with me.... He will then take both to a key maker and get a key made with correct info in the transponder. I guess I wount have any use of the genuine VCDS I have - or VAGKKL (for Fiat Ecu scan) I have to get the pin number out of the car, for the key maker? Thank you.

Found them! There are three 13 mm screws and nuts, located from left to right (nut is in between the belt). Two can be seen from the top. One at the bottom, you need to take the tray out. From top down: They are in length: 30 mm 100 mm (use extender above oil filter to reach the screw head) 30 mm

Yes, thanks. Thats what I need to do - be able to lift up the part I am holding on in the last picture. The alternator/tensioner assembly is in the way. If I just knew how meny bolts and nuts there are - everything is soaked in 20 years of leaked oil and dust. I dd fnd one 13 mm bolt and a nut in the belt end.

Heeello I am going mad. F----------k. Ok, So the carrier for the coil pack is in three pieces. I tried to weld it together, but the right side with the piece under the long metall plate, under where the carrier for the multi belt tensioner and generator is, it is so small I cannot get it to hold. No wonder the car runs poorly. When the coil pack is held with one nut! I cannot find out how to remove the carrier for the belt tensioner and generator! F-k - I cannot even find out how to get acces to the belt tensioner. There is no place to get tools down there - I cannot get loose the screw that goes through the right hand engine mount so I can lift the engine a bit. I hate this car! No help in Autodata and Alldata cannot get acces to anything on this car. Any help where I can find the info I would need? Picture of the broken carrier (I have on other one) and the problem I have. I am holding on the long piece that cannot be lifted off without taking off the big carrier with part number showing on one pic.

Jup! The steel was ****E! It is welded together now..... I was just huppy to be able to find anything at that time - because VAG was NO help, what sooo ever 😃 And thats what was on that car. From 1996. The gear linkage feels the same on 1996 and 2001 cars how ever.

We make chamferr on brake pads as well, not only shoes. AND on pads, new and used pads, that go back on during a "refurbish", we cut 2-3 incisions with angle ginder disc. I mentioned her suspicion, because its not sure she wants to fix this car. Unfortunatelly. But its always difficult with old cars and with owners who dont have the money. "If I pay all this money to fix this, can you promise me nothing else needs to be fixed!" Also, she seems to have problem making her mind up 😃 And we already have 5 cars here we are supposed to fix in order and sell. I am always thankfull for the forums and communities that share with each other. This is what I ordered some 5-6 years ago for a 1996 1.6 Felicia that was owned by an other customer: https://allegro.pl/oferta/przegub-drazka-zmian-biegow-skoda-felicia-felicja-14062520423 The linkage attachment to gearbox was an other model than on later models, if I remember correct.