SuperbTWM

normal water pump on this engine I reckon, at that year it will be EU5 You can prove ths by looking for the connector if you look at the engine from a birds eye view, there is a brown connector and wiring between the cam pulley and the HPFP pulley on the engine side of the edge of the timing belt cover.

Now where is the fun in that? By the looks of it, the pump is in one side and the sender is in the other EDIT - scratch that, you can clearly see a sender on the fuel pump as well, I guess if you have a lid and wiring on both sides it might have 2 senders

I think I need to play the lottery, finally some of the **** I talk actually turns out to be somewhat correct 🤣

Sorry, I should have explained better, when I said 'it is essential kit' I wasn't being exclusive to VCDS, although £222 I think is an absolute no brainer even if you only ever own 1 VAG vehicle. You can save that money in an instant and many other generic code readers don't offer the same level of test functions and adaptations as VCDS does. As far as codes though I believe OBD11 and Carista will provide the same codes as VCDS will.

£222 it's listed as on Rosstech website, there are other distributers though. It is essential kit and without it you might as well ask us to guess what colour underwear you are wearing!

Any decent garage should be able to change a water pump on this car.

I think you have a point, when people lease or get PCP they are not interested in the price of the car, they only care about what it is costing them a month and by leasing you can get essentially get a car you can't afford to buy, I think this is partly to blame for car prices creeping up. I know it's not the only reason but less and less people are caring about that actual retail price of the car so they are getting away with rediculous pricing

Yes, it's a basic timing belt job essentially but get it correctly diagnosed first before insisting the water pump is changed

I'm not saying you are wrong btw, just thinking out loud. I only question your theory due to all the lift pumps I've seen just have a gauze on the bottom sucking fuel from its surrounding bowl but this of course could be totally different in this case. Pass a fluid through a venturi (a restriction in flow sometimes via a small nozzle) before the restriction you get a reduction in velocity causing a higher pressure, in the narrow part of the venturi the velocity increases which creates a lower pressure area and depending on design*, a negative pressure. Same principle that a snow foam lance sucks up the snow foam from the bottle, or a pressure washer sucks up detergent from its bottle. In this particular scenario you would use the return flow to simply pull in fuel from the other side of the tank. *I say design because a venturi or an orifice plate is often use in industry to easily measure the flow rate in high temperature/high pressure steam and water systems combined with a differential pressure transmitter. Flow being a square root of diff pressure. I realise we have gone off on a bit of a tangent now, I just enjoy a good technical discussion🤐

The pump is a submersible in one half of the tank so it can't pick and choose which tank to pull from. It has to get from the non pumped side to the other either by a seperate pump or maybe some kind of venturi system. Like you have said, it can't do it in a way in which air can be drawn in.

Have you scanned it with vcds? you need a better scan tool more than likely, there will be a code in there somewhere

'Upgraded' being the term now used to described badly designed aftermarket parts? 😁

A grand to drain the oil and remove the sump. Jesus. What have the intervals been between services with that spec oil?

This is what flow to expect when the pump is ‘on’ vs ‘off’ when the coolant temp in the microcircuit that is the cylinder head, egr cooler and heater matrix gets to around 70-80 degrees you should see the main pump turn ‘on’ and you should get a flow in this small pipe. Check this first

Next to impossible for it to be the fan, never seen a radiator fan running ona diesel other than for air con or regen purposes, it just doesn't happen, especially when moving Its more than likely the water pump sleeve sticking, or the thermostat or some other blockage causing poor coolant circulation. Best thing to do is to inspect where the return hose enters the coolant resovoir (the small bore hose) if the engine is hot and there is no coolant dribbling through that line, the water pump is not working.

Our S max has a saddle tank over the prop shaft too. When I looked from underneath I couldn't work out for the life of me how it worked because a pipe to equalise the level would have to be on the bottom of each tank and I couldn't see anything of the sort so I have no clue how each tank is configured. I assume it only had one lift pump so not sure what sort of wizardry is going on but as there are literally a hand full of 4x4 S-max's out there, there is limited information.

Surely that is irrelevant, he is not trying to pull away without pressing the accelerator. I think the best thing to do is to find somebody with some towing experience and get them to test drive your car with the van on and make sure you are just not expecting too much from it. I know you have experience but if the car seems otherwise OK it seems it is unlikely a fault with the car. If you pull away from standstill at 2K RPM a 100BHP golf would pull that caravan, let alone a modern 190

Its not something you think about until you have to renew the seal and realise it is more involved than you think. Also, the clamp holds 2 injectors on the newer EU6 engine IIRC so you have to take them out as as a pair. fun fun fun

Doesn’t take much working out when the injector is right in the middle of each cylinder and goes through the valve cover. Unless I’m missing something really obvious I will add that if they have been in for 180K, the brute force needed to get them out can sometimes result in them never working again or even a smashed up valve cover if care is not taken when prying them out. Also, any corrosion or galling you might not want to put them back in. Can be a bit of a can of worms unlike a trusty old PD unit or VE

There is a possibility that the even the valves are fine on this engine, the way the top end is set up it may have just smashed the rockers to bits when the valves have hit the piston. The trouble with looking in the top end though is that you have to take all the injectors out so its not a 5 minute job but as this happened at tickover you have a good chance of saving it if you really wanted to. It is still a bit of an unknown though and its still a 180K engine with a lot of auxiliaries that are just waiting to die and cost you money, plus a lot of things will break and need replacing once you start tearing into it.

Serviced regular but not to a very high standard by the look of it. who has been servicing the car? That belt will more than likely have shown its age and I would expect this to be checked if I’m paying somebody to keep my car maintained

This is not the first time this has happenned and won't be the last. What is the mileage? It's probably not worth paying somebody to inspect and do any top end work unless you throw a new belt on it and hope for the best. Salvage engine is probably the best option. Its a shame to ruin a good car for the sake of a few quid, I keep a close eye on mine at every service and it still looks in good shape but when I read things like this I might just order a new one!

It doesn't matter, don't obsess over it, it is not worth burning extra fuel driving around for no reason when it will look after itself next time you drive the car. Happens to me sometimes, drive on the motorway all week and then I get home and its doing a regen 🤣

Ive had a nextbase Dash cam for about 5/6 years, can't remember what model but it is a 4K one, I found the quality of the normal HD one a bit poor and when you might want to capture a passing reg plate you need all the clarity you can get. I think it is alright for its age, I suspect the interfaces and the app is a lot better now They do get very hot when recording, especially when your car is already 45 degrees inside in the middle of summer and I think this contributes towards battery failure. I have replaced mine once which requires dissassembley and some soldering maybe but you can get them and they are cheap enough. I think this probably goes for every dash cam though, I think of lot of them are the same components inside

It probably does to a small extent but with all the other variables like ambient temperature and engine load having an effect it is not an effective 'tell tale' for a regen from what I have seen,