SuperbTWM

I believe you are right. The car does give you a chance to take action, it can even pre-charge the braking system to make it work more like an on/off switch to further increase your chances of slowing down in time but if you don't take that chance and it thinks there is still going to be a collision, you can bet your life it will slam on for you 100% From VW: If the front assist system determines that the distance is too close and there is potential for a crash, it alerts you with a warning in the instrument cluster coupled with a warning chime and prepares the brakes for emergency braking. If you don’t respond to the warning, the front assist system briefly applies the brake, jolting the car to warn you of an imminent collision. If you don’t press the brake hard enough, front assist can automatically apply the brakes with the additional necessary force to slow the vehicle down and help avoid a collision. If you don't brake at all, front assist steps in and activates automatic emergency braking to fully stop the vehicle and avoid a crash, or at least substantially lessen the effects of a collision within the limits of the system.

There is a calibration procedure for it I believe so there is something they can check.

I've had it where when using ACC it has picked up on the corner of a lorry which can be overridden with the accelerator but it does not make sense for a full blown automatic emegergency stop to be able to be overridden with the accelerator because thats the whole point of the system, to be able to react quicker than you can. Or it could be that by the the time you are pressing the accelerator the car has decided no further action was required.

I think you can expect that though, I've had warnings for the same scenario but never any braking. Because the other car is turning its effective speed in the direction that you are travelling is very low and often you are able to go around in situations like this as well which it cannot predict. In 85K I've never had mine slam on, only ever had the pre warning. You definetly have to adjust your driving a bit and you have the bear in mind that the car might decide it is too close when manouvering at speed around other cars but I find ACC brilliant and I would never go back to normal cruise control. The added benefit of having the manouvre braking is also a fantastic addition for those 1 in a million times you have a lapse in concentration. Can you imagine how many times a car gets reversed into every day in the UK that this feature would prevent if it was implemented on every car. It would save millions.

Pressing the button or not shouldn't make any difference, if it doesn't engage on a pawl it drops to the next. This is the whole principle behind the ratchet mechanism. In this case it appears to have skipped over all of them so I would be having a very close look at the handbrake mechanism before I trusted it again.

At least it’s still waggling, mine seized into a solid mass and was incredibly unbalanced.

You deffinetly can't recover a diesel from letting the engine speed drop like you can on a petrol, the stalling is quite abrupt, is it just not quite selecting a low enough gear for the speed/unfamiliarity with the car? Mine has push button start and if you stall it the engine will resart itself (most of the time) The few seconds it takes feels like a bloody lifetime though when traffic is behind you That's what I was thinking, unaware of any other marks but ive always used to tool so have never really looked. Both require taking the same amount of parts off so you might as well put the locking tool in?

Must be the differences in the older generations and the newer 115, I had to contend with the horrible fan (think there was also a smaller electric fan as well and the 2 Aux. belts, quite a nice feature though when the compressor pulley/clutch drops to bits and you don't lose the power steering or alternator

Sorry, forgot to mention, the throttle valve @J.R. was referring to is down by the airbox, if you follow the charge air route from the turbo to the front of the car you will see it before the airflow goes into the charge cooler although it might be sanwiched between the other EGR stuff and be a pig to look at. Removal of the airbox will be probably be necessary

Don't forget to have some suitable sealant for the corners where the top half of the cam bearing mounts to the cylinder head when you refit the cam cover. Not sure if the tandem pump side needs a dab as well. I omitted this and it started to weep after a while. I think if you remove the viscous fan and have enough room to take the pulley off you will get to to put the locking tool in, maybe even from underneath without removing the fan? The compressor also has its own little belt from what I remember? Putting the front end in the service position is one of those jobs you can do in no time unless it's the first time 😂, You will need some stud bar though, something to think about getting in stock if you do end up needing to do the belt.

Might just be the DMF? If I raise the idle slightly in my Passat to just over 1000 and hold it there I get the same increased wobblyness that can be felt while in the drivers seat. Smooth as silk in the rest of the rev range

Going back to the injectors. The following seems to suggest injector deviation is only an issue if its larger than +/- 0.5 although it looks like another DIY article rather than concrete evidence. https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/multi/PD-adjust-Idle-TDI.htm

Is that rural steadyish driving and for how long? Those engines were notoriously slow to warm up and cool running, Doesn't the thermostat start to open at something like 86 degrees anyway? WIth the oil temperature taking considerably longer to warm up as well I doubt it would get to 90 unless you were on the motorway from what I can remember, especially for the current time of year

There was no 'Emissions fix' on that engine as far as i'm aware. A better use of your time and money would be to get the car looked at by somebody with the right equipment and knowledge to diagnose the issue. Messing with things and potentially introducing more faults is really going to annoy the next guy that tries to fix it.

There are about 3 throttle valves on this engine, give us a clue? One RHS of charge cooler down the side of the airbox, one on the exhaust, one possibly on the other Low pressure EGR

I’m not sure either. I think what they are trying to say is that the torsion value comes from the cam sensor only maybe? and not referenced to the crank/TDC therefore if the crank is off slightly the assumed TDC from the cam will be off giving you various readings of torsion that don’t quite mean anything. this is the only scenario I can make sense of it. As you say, if it was using both the crank and cam sensors together then it can’t be anything but spot on I agree with checking the base timing first, then go from there

There are much bigger problems if he is getting Petrol fumes 😂

It is a cost cutting measure, see if the top spec Octavia has 2 reversing lights and get a cluster from one of those. Failing that, buy a VW 😁

Potentially, I do apologise for getting your hopes up. Although given how easy it is to adjust, it wouldn’t take much to put it back.

Just done a quick google to refresh myself and thought it might be worth sharing this. It seems there may be some trial and error required in some cases and not a clear cut adjustment as I first thought Since first working on the PD motors, we found the setting of the torsion value a bit of a mystery. The torsion value is located in VCDS/Engine Module/ block 4/ torsion value. We tended to figure that 0.0 was a good figure and originally let it go at that. However, early on, we had a Passat Wagon that lost 4 mpg when we set the torsion value to 0.0. The customer had us return the value to it's original setting of -.5 and the mileage came right back. Now we find that the value can be positive or negative a much greater degree. Most recently, we checked the value on a car that was in for an oil change. The torsion value was set at -5.7 and the owner says her manual transmission car averages 45mpg and on a trip will get over 52mpg! This is what we think is happening: The only way to set the engine for TDC is by using a crank lock, such as that sold by Metalnerd. We have been providing their timing tools for several years. However well the tools are made, we find that the hole in the flange that is used to pin the crank sprocket into position has a movement of about 1-2 degrees. There is also a question about the accuracy of the location of the front flange location hole that the crank lock uses. I think the hole location in the flange could allow another 1-2 degrees of error. The total deviation, given these two variables, could allow the crank setting to be off as much as 4 degrees, +/-. Since the cam position is relative to the crank timing, that can create a wide variation for each engine's correct torsion value. That would account for the reason one engine works well with a +2.5 reading, while another is working very well with a reading that is nearly -6.0. There is no TDC mark on the flywheel,nor is there any other positioning reference besides the crank lock to locate TDC. That takes away any scientific method of relating the crank position to the cam position. The only way I know to accurately locate the true TDC mark is to remove the #1 injector and with a dial indicator and find the piston rolling through TDC. I have noticed that in the Passat, there is a hole that is on the side of the block where a mark could be made. This may also be true of the other PD motors. I will look. But unless there is a method by which you can determine accurately where the TDC actually is, the setting of the cam's torsion value will be experimentation. Those wanting to optimize their fuel ecomony/ power should move the cam sprocket in relation to the cam shaft. Moving the cam shaft in the direction of rotation moves the cam torsion value in the positive direction. Just like the injection pumps for the ALH engine, the setting is very precise and a small adjustment makes a lot of difference. Movements of a few points and then either taking performance runs or recording mileage should give you an idea if there can be an improvement over the existing torsion value setting.

I think moving the cam further towards the direction of rotation (clockwise) will yield a more positive result. I think the 3 bolts are 13mm and the centre bolt is something like 18 or 19mm At least you have a baseline adjustment, I would put it to 0 or 0.5 and see how the car reacts to it over a week or so and also see what it does to the fuel economy. The injector values look quite good to me. I was seeing a bigger spread than that. Probably in the region of +1.0/1.5 to -1.0/1.5

HOLY THREAD RESURRECTION Just done this fix on my Passat. Seems like the natural sag of the suspension and general aging of the bushes causes it to rub on itself where it is slotted. The picture quoted by @Baverhanne is actually the back of the car so ignore that. No removal of lower wishbone necessary. I did have some Lithium grease spray but after application I wondered whether it would be easily washed out so packed it with some Molykote 111 just with my finger. If it cures the creaking between services it’s a win!

Do you get the puff of smoke on startup-up as well? I can’t remember whether you’ve said you have checked the glow plugs but at this age they could be mostly dead and although they start fine with or without them even at freezing temperatures, the post start glow definitely cleans up the exhaust. I think in my case it helped mask the tired injectors because without them I got quite a bad fog out of the back and with them it was like night and day. I would definitely check the torsion value, especially if it’s had a timing belt in the past. A lot of people don’t bother slackening off the cam pulley relative to the cam and check it is in the right position with VCDS when they are done. You never know, might help slightly if it’s way off. I believe it’s block 4

I always thought it was more of a trim value rather than anything. Rather like fuel trims on a petrol compensating for air leaks to maintain lambda. Never seen any concrete guidance though just hearsay on forums and such. I can't really see any other way the car could measure or know any specifics of the inectors performance other than measuring the rpm variance or smoothness of running using the rest of its sensors. When I had the B5.5 Passat with only a 100K on it, I spent countless hours testing and trying new bits and pieces egr/maf, running it on premium fuel, and fuel cleaner for 6 months to try and get it cleaned up to smoke less, start smoother and idle better but in the end nothing really mattered, it had done a lot of caravan towing and i'm sure the engine or injectors or both were just tired and worn out. Even checked the cam for wear although I always wished I had reset the injector backlash while I was in there for good measure. The injector deviation even looked normal. Its also worth noting that on the PD engines the torsion value on VCDS (cam timing) has sometimes been rumoured to make a difference. I think it is meant to be set to +0.5 but slackening the 3 bolts and playing about with it slightly didn't seem to make any noticeable difference to me at least. @Breezy_Pete This is something else you could check if you haven't already, on a warm idle.

My sister broke down in the middle of Doncaster shortly after my Dad had replaced a driveshaft on her Golf, all of them had come loose and backed out until drive had been lost, rather miraculously none had been bent or damaged. From what I remember we took the originals and rattled them back in at the roadside and all was good. I reckon the cheapo ones he got with the driveshaft must have stretched possibly due to them being made out of cheese, either that or they were under torqued. It really is difficult getting quality parts these days, its either try your luck with the crap you can buy aftermarket and get it delivered conveniently, or have guaranteed success with genuine parts but have to mess about going to the dealer and then have to make a second trip when they sell you the wrong part😡 (btw That was JCT600 Wakefield)