ExSEAT

@BigJakk You don't say what year your car is, is it an earlier year? The old door seals used to hold water really bad, if you look in the middle of seal on the bottom there may be two holes, if not then you have the old type and the best idea would be to get them replaced with the new ones. If you have the holes then maybe there's a blockage that's holding the water? I clicked the topic expecting to say 'use gumtree plfedge' so was surprised to see you have already tried it. If the seals are still freezing ot suggests there's a fair bit of water sitting about still. Best of luck

@varaderoguy I suggested to a guy in the Facebook page for ovrsmk3ovrs to do what you've tried to do there a while ago and someone else came along and sorted the problem by suggesting removing the little lenses. I'm sorry it didn't work for you

The misty lenses on the part of the light surround that you take off just pop out. The round bit of the light goes between the lens and the silver reflector. Someone on the mk3 VRS Facebook page had the same problem a while back

You didn't check it when the light came on? I've only ever had TSI engines with skoda and not had any warnings but seen my coolant drop well below the minimum. In 20 years of driving prior to owning my 2016 VRS I've never seen a car lose coolant or drink its oil between services. That one did both though.

Normal lane assist activates when approaching the line. Adaptive tries to keep the car centred to where the driver seems to want to be and is therefore making more adjustments and will be more intrusive. Really don't see the big issue here, its an assist. In general the driver should be the one keeping the car between the lines. I rarely have it activated

As per above. I had one of the first VC on a factory order and I put a video on YouTube showing how it worked. Got challenged all the time on 'why normal car not VRS you liar'. It shows a normal octavia when you shut down as standard🤣

@CookieMonster87The adaptive option means it has a limited ability to learn your road position and use that as the datum. Its not a sensitivity adjustment.

I dont have it written out in english but here is my process I used for my MY19 Vrs with virtual cockpit. This worked for me, no guarantee it will work for you. Take a backup before you start. All done at your own risk 1. Connect to car and go to 'control units' 2. Select control unit 5F (multimedia) 3. Choose adaptations 4. Look for Cr Function list BAP Gen2 'Traffic sign recognition' 5. change 'not activated' to activated 6. Still in 5F, find car Functions Adaptations Gen2 'menu display road sign identification' 7. Change 'not activated' to 'activated' 8. Go out of unit 5F and into unit A5 (Driver Assistance) 9. Select long coding (this a bit more difficult) 10. There will be a little switch at the top with a 0 and a 1, press it to go to 1 11. You will now see a log line of numbers, you are going to have to change some of these by ticking boxes 12. activate byte 16 bit 4 13. The long code should now change from 0203070100000401000213408150 A80084000E200000, to A8009400E200000 14. Exit 5F and go to module 17 (Dashboard) 15. Got to long coding, press the little 0/1 button again 16. Activate byte 5 bit 2 17. The long code should now change from 25A5110879808600010A6302100 to 25a5110879848600010a6302100 18. Exit all and then turn on TSR in the car menu and you should be done Thats why I couldnt tell you last night from my mobile!!

I think I might have the coding written up on a word document on my laptop, I will have a look. I have the history on my app but theres more to it than just the steps. I might also have hba written up somewhere too. Let me have a look...

I'm just about 2 years into my current VRS, so I've had whatever the wonderful original ones which lasted from January to November, and a set of the bosch ones which have lasted November to November it seems. The bosch ones on amazon are £22 delivered for a set.

I'll check my lights tomorrow now youve mentioned it. I lifted the adaptation straight out of my history so I may have all the rear lights on all the time, I've never thought to check! It doesn't bother me but for accuracy I'll double check 🤣

Hi, sorry but its quite complex to type out here, its 4 or 5 changes and some long coding. It would be best to check the guides for accuracy.

If you mean Scandinavian DRLs, you are looking for unit 9 central electrics and change... Tagfahrlicht-Dauerfahrlicht aktiviert zusaetzlich Standlicht From: not active To: active Thats what I did for my my19

The Bosch blades are 33.30 for a set of 3 on amazon. They take around 30 seconds to a minute for each, 30 seconds to put the wipers in maintenance. You can understand then how dealer prices plus the time they will quote, minimum 15 minutes say, and bobs your uncle £68. On another note, never been through as many wiper blades on any car as my last 2 octavia VRS, although I live in Cumbria and it rains 356 days a year here 😀

Over the last 5 years I've had a 220 VRS and 245 VRS, both have been around 30mph overall average. Heres the result of my longest trip for a while, made up of motorway, A road and some local town driving. Overall my 245 seems to be slightly better than the 220 was, its DSG but I dont know if that's a positive or a negative for economy

I always found it frustrating that my FR leon without electeic seats had mirror dip as standard and worked perfectly yet the Octavia doesn't have the capability as standard. I didnt mind having to lift the mirror back up now and again. I might put it back on my FL now I've thought about it again 🤔

You are talking about mirror dip, not folding mirrors! Two completely different things. Folding mirrors turn themselves in when locking and unlocking the car. I had mirror dip put on my previous VRS but haven't missed it on my PFL

I dont think the folding mirrors is just as simple as coding it in. You will need to have the correct configuration of mirrors with the required motors and I think you even need particular door modules. The windows up or down on a long press should be standard depending on which model you have. It has been standard on my last 2 VRS models. I have activated the chirp on locking/unlocking, HBA, virtual subwoofer, traffic sign recognition, cornering fogs, turned off the sound aktor, changed the comfort blink cycle and adjusted the intervals on the speedo on the virtual cockpit.

Absolutely this!

In the meantime try locking and unlocking the car while pushing on the flap, you might get lucky. One of our skodas has done this once only, and that sorted it. If you get it open its likely you will either need to lubricate the plunger part of the mechanism or replace it entirely

@Doombrain no probs, Im not a diesel expert so I won't say too much but theres lots of people on here who are! Even I have heard about the water pump problem, not sure sure about the cold crank issue. I think the 2015 will be the older version of DSG, the DSG can deal with the extra power from the map than the manual I believe. You need to be making sure that the DSG services are up to date though. I'll bow out now but best of luck 👍

You haven't mentioned diesel or petrol!

@theandywaite Sounds like a familiar story, so frustrafrustrating read the whole tale when I have more time as I imagine its an interesting read! I also thought about paying for it myself and going to war with them but I instead decided I would voluntary terminate the car at Christmas and find something else if it didn't get fixed. I will be looking for some compensation from skoda to cover my costs, the last outing cost me around 60 quid in fuel and 2 half days of leave from work. Never mind the other visits! The irony is that I buy new in the hope of having as few problems as possible and everything being covered. My last VRS gave me no issues and went into the dealer for servicing only. This one has been more trouble. I was asked by the workshop manager on my first visit to dumfries if I had ever misfueled it. The car had done less than 6k miles at this point, probably nearer 4 or 5k. Im the first owner and I know I havent done that! He told me that Skoda are awful for paying out, he has since left and his replacement told me the same thing. He said he had worked for a few franchises and skoda were the worst for it by far. The dealer I went to had hyundai and a few others and he said they were better for warranty. Its not a good plan for a manufacturer with a growing reputation (and a very bad one behind them) to start making the customer service experience so bad. They are asking silly money for the new model which would be enough to put lots of people off, Im a fan (or was) of skoda and its enough to make me think Skoda arent worth the hassle anymore. Lots of talk on the VRS groups about how thin the dealer network is getting and how bad the service can be. Not good all round. Its a shame as I like my car aswell. It will be serviced for free on my plan in January with around 11k on it and then I'll be looking at my options again I think.

Short version: I've had my low pressure fuel pump replaced under warranty after a year of fighting Long version.... I've posted about this before but I forgot to come back with an update! Around this time last year a noise I thought was a cooling system or oil circulation started to get worse. It had been making this noise pretty much from new but only started making itself really known during some strike action at work when I was static for a while with the start stop engaged. I realised that the noise was accompanied by a vibration through the rear seat and that would be worse and noisier as the fuel level dropped. Opening the fuel cap made the noise louder and it could be heard outside the car. OK, decision made, fuel pump problem! Spoke to Skoda, told me to take it in. Lucky for me the local dealer had gone pop so I had to go to the nearest one in Carlisle. All booked in and dropped off. Told them it needed to be warmed up, was most apparent at idle or when the start stop kicked in. I got a phone call early next morning, no problem found, car fine and they won't be charging me the fee to look at it. So basically I'm simple and they all make this noise. Gave them some vigorous feedback. Spoke to skoda and booked into next nearest dealer, Dumfries. Took it in for a service in January and to have the noise looked at. After a few hours they say that they agree it sounds bad but not bad enough to replace. Also tell me they have researched and there are zero cases of failed or replaced fuel pumps. Spoken to skoda etc. Wont replace it. This was progress so I didn't lose the plot. Got back to Skoda, gave them some grief and started trying to get it looked at again. Then covid came. Last month I took it back to Dumfries who agreed there was a problem and replaced the pump. All problems sorted. So yeah, over 12 months, 3 dealer visits, nearly 700 miles, fuel costs and arguing and its sorted. Shouldn't be that way but it is. Needless to say due to the dealer issues, the time to get something rectified and distance I wont be buying Skoda again!

Get a rag and quickly block the exhaust for a second or two and see if the noise changes. If it does then maybe crawl under the car on your back and look for a leak, pinhole, bad joint etc. If it stays the same then open your fuel flap and see if its the breathers that are blocked, having just listened to your noise and having had a noisy fuel pump replaced a couple of weeks ago I dont think its that. It might be a projected noise that is coming from somewhere unconnected so get under the bonnet and everything