freemansteve

No idea - never needed to use the locking feature.... The shelf going up and down on strings with the tailgate is essential though; I almost can't believe there are cars that don't do this, but I was corrected, on this thread!

I have only driven models that had wheel arch liners fitted (all 4 arches), but I doubt it affects the noise much; mine seems surprisingly quiet anyway - for an "econobox". Maybe liners may have a slight effect, since the bulk of the noise is road noise... It is a hard thing to measure, of objectively judge. I have fitted sound felt under the bonnet on two other cars, years ago, and it honestly didn't seem to do a lot. One, I cut myself, and the other was a "proper kit" that a friend gave me as it didn't fit his model year. I think under-bonnet felt works better with diesels, owing to the timbre of the noise those engines make, especially from outside the car! Inside, you are already quite well insulated from the engine bay...

"It is then clipped up by these lugs" Err yes, mine does this too but you have to quite deliberately put it in the "locking" position; it won't do that just by opening the tailgate. I did not know however, that earlier, or basic spec models, did not have self-raising shelves on strings! Even on a basic, economy car, that is some accountant being insultingly cheap!

I'm not following the "it won't go down" thing about the parcel shelf. Maybe the design has changed on more recent Citigos - mine definitely goes up and down with the tailgate and is pulled up by a pair of strings, and down by gravity...

Of the dozens of cars I have had that have lifting parcels-helves I have never found any of them to be a problem! Unless you bodge them off the swivels...

Ebay parts: The lid will not drop if locked in the open/up position (by design, or at least it is like that on my car). Never needed to lock it in open position though!

Post a recording of the noise. Hard to be sure what you mean by 'ringing'.... Could it be what is known as pinking in the UK (not sure how to translate that !)

I've had several cars where, when you get the right steering wheel rake, get a comfy position etc, the steering wheel obscures the dials! Citigo is maybe one of the worst, but oddly I have learned to cope with "sit up and beg" fairly well. Soon they won't have dials in a binnacle as such - it'll be a display panel mounted on the steering column, or vertically re-positionable on the dash. And they will organize so it cannot be read in direct sunlight! (or maybe it'll be like a Kindle display which is great in any lighting?).

"At least the Kamiq has a low fuel warning light which the Citigo doesn't" err my Citigo does, and it dings too!

A shame to have to change.... 😞 At least you can stay on the forum! Glad that the gripes are pretty small: - I don't even notice the gear indicator on mine - I assume it's the same on all models and year. It would certainly be pointless on an automatic! - As for the speedo, The UK law is based on the EU standard, with some minor changes. A speedo must never show less than the actual speed, and must never show more than 110% of actual speed + 6.25mph. So generally, speedos are set a few percent fast by design. With standard standard tyre circumferences on a given car, I have yet to come across a speedo that was accurate. - Same with the fuel gauge; I have yet to find one that is significantly different to the one you describe! Mind you on a proper modern car, it should be very easy and cheap (~£1 in volume using A-D, software, and D-A), to digitally re-profile the potentiometer reading that comes from the tank, to a corrected voltage to supply the dashboard gauge. The fuel tank needs to be 'modelled' to take into account it is not a uniform-shaped box that the float goes up and down in. Maybe this is done now in a Kamiq? Let us know!

Not sure if these use canbus or not, or indeed, if the indicators are driven through a relay on these cars (which could be faulty...). Disconnect and reconnect a battery terminal to force a reset of the ECU to see what happens. It still sounds like an open circuit or a short, whether bulbs are involved or not. Are all the bulbs definitely correctly seated and the connections in the holders clean? What about the rear bulbs?; they are on the same circuit....

Never had this on any of dozens of 'modern' cars, especially in summer. Sounds like one of any of these: - a blockage in the fresh air intake, or water getting in owing to blocked drain holes (look under the bonnet just below the windscreen, check drain holes and/or unclip the plastic cover) - the 'external air'/'recirculate' lever being broken or stuck on 'recirculate' - water seeping out the heater matrix and being blown as fine mist (that is a pain and expensive) - non-functioning air con (if fitted).

Also check for corrosion on the bulb holder contacts.

When disconnected, get a voltage reading across the battery terminals with a meter. Charge level/voltage should roughly be like this. 100% 12.7+V 75% 12.4V 50% 12.2V Then check voltage again when terminals are back on (there is always a slight battery load)

First off, disconnect and reconnect a battery terminal to reset the ECU (my stuck record!), and make sure your battery is good and charges properly. A dying battery is the cause of a number of electronic issues. Other than that it may be a loose or corroded wiring somewhere (but I can see that's not helpful).

One great thing the about Up/Citigo/Mii is that they are all built on the same production line in Bratislava. This mitigates the sometimes variable quality of design and assembly that has been true in the past from Seat's Spanish and Portuguese plants, compared with Skoda and VW. Any problems with washers are usually down to using poor screen washer products in the washer tank - they can clog the jets, annoying as this sounds. This was a common problem on Octavias, and they ended up issuing a notice to get users to always use Skoda approved fluids - well they would, wouldn't they? I had two Octavias in the past, but I got handy with sewing needles to clean the jets! The facelift cars seem to be pretty good with lots of things fixed. One of my best friends was interested, and I did suggest to him that he should only look at post-facelift models for all sorts of reasons. Mine has BT and DAB which I have to say both work brilliantly, but the latter feature depends on which model you buy (the radios vary between models, and I think DAB is a software option no matter what, but my SE-L came with it anyway, as it was a dealer demonstrator/courtesy car, hence, also, the nice 16" alloys).

Your aircon system must have a leak that needs fixing again, if it's only 12months or so since regassing. Probably the 'condenser' (a small radiator) or a seal on the compressor. Being a simple on/off chiller rules out a possible fault with climate control electronics (there are none). I can't see how a possible lack of gas in the A/C is related to the overheating engine problem though - my guess above was based on the A/C having gas, but not cooling, and a simultaneous engine overheating.

Is it a "climate control" system or a basic "on/off" aircon chiller? Either way it sounds like you have a slipping belt. I'm guessing the same belt drives the water pump and the aircon compressor. It may also be that you have a failing water pump, and as the car engine (and coolant) gets hot, the aircon can no longer overcome the heat. By the way, if you lose refrigerant and thus need "re-gassing", don't bother unless you can identify why the original gas escaped. Or else you are just refilling a leaking bucket. You may get a very gradual loss of refrigerant over time anyway through various seals, but if it happens in a short period of time, there is a hole somewhere!

That's a good point about the servo. And for low-mileage drivers, the brake disks can rust up surprisingly fast, and it takes a few stops to clean them off. Also, brake pads can get glazed if they get too hot, but the OP doesn't sound like that kind of driver! I'd be temped to have the pads out and have a look at the surface, and also check the disks are still smooth.... It can only be a few mins effort, and with low mileage/age, everything should disassemble easily.

If it feels like fade, it may be fade (as opposed to simply poor brakes), so one thing to check is how hot the brakes feel after a fair drive. Don't touch the disks as such, but see how hot the hub gets, and the centre of the wheel. If those areas are too hot to keep a finger on, then it is possible that you may have a slightly sticking piston in the caliper, or that the disk is running slightly out of true. Might even be a fault, like the hill start feature not being quite right (i think it works on the front brakes). Don't worry about the rear drums. My Citigo does seem to have good brakes - no more fade than on most other cars I have driven, good ABS, brakes straight, no noises. Similar to yours, mine has 2800 miles and I've had it from new, so I know everything on it is original and has not been bodged by a previous owner. One problem with harder pads, while usually less prone to fade, is that they tend to work less well around town, or even for an emergency stop on a motorway, because they need to be worked hard to keep the temperature up. When 'cool', you need a lot more force on the pads to get good braking. It is commonly misunderstood, but harder pads don't provide more effective braking as such, they just continue to work at temperatures beyond the point where standard pads have overheated - if the ABS kicks in during fierce braking, there is nothing to be gained by 'more braking power'.

Assuming they replaced the whole clutch assembly, and ensured the clutch hydraulics were OK, a 'rough noise' in neutral with the clutch engaged may well point to the gearbox , particularly a bearing on a shaft. You must go back to the dealer, and Skoda UK, and if they don't agree to fix it, you'll need to get a written report from a gearbox/drivetrain specialist and start talking about legal action....

In fact the last time I looked, I spotted a random piece of plastic under the "scuttle insert" below the bonnet at the base of the windscreen (the bit where water drains, and where we check the holes aren't blocked!). Popped the plastic insert up and removed Part# KDS 1SO 827645. Turns out that is a cover plate for the tailgate lock mechanism. I can only assume it was "Happy Beer Afternoon" when my car was assembled. Anyone needing that part, let me know!

Right! Useful to know. I rarely look (literally) under the bonnet!

Awesome dedication and well-written guide! Can't imagine CCS on my Citigo - I have often changed to 3rd to maintain decent speed on some motorway and dual carriageway sections! CCS would be OK for me in long roadworks though.... But then not much worry with that down here in Penzance!

Well, on recent Citigos, compared with Ups! the bonnet is a very different shape (it's nicer!). It has a kind of wide-V-shaped bulge down the centre line.... I imagine the Up! part can be bodged to fit. It probably wouldn't give me £32 (?) of benefit as the engine is very quiet. It's road roar that is the main issue with these. £32 will buy me me 8 bottles of table wine though....