freemansteve

The ASG is literally an "assisted manual" device. The clutch and gear changes are worked by solenoids, under electronic control. The ASG is quite different from the majority of automatics, (DSGs aside) which use fluid torque converters instead of a friction clutch. These provide for "creep" when the unit is in "drive" or in reverse, on flat ground, and up to a point will hold a car steady on a slight incline. Conversely, an ASG only engages the clutch (to provide movement) when you press the throttle (which is sensed by the electronics), so at idle, the gearbox behaves like a manual, meaning you will need to use the handbrake on a hill, and/or be quick to press the throttle. My manual car came with "hill assist" which holds the brakes for up to 2secs on a hill, to give you a chance to work the throttle & clutch without needing the handbrake - it works excellently once you've tried it a few times (inevitable in hilly Cornwall!). I'm pretty sure however, that most Citigos/Up!s/Mii's do not have this feature as standard (maybe it's just newer models). Without it, the handbrake is a must.

https://www.upownersclub.co.uk/threads/gti-horn-or-lack-of.13598/page-2#post-143919 Several people have been unhappy with the single horn....

Probably a poor battery - get it checked. Also, do try the stop-start again - it really does work excellently well and it saves money and pollution.... I barely noticed it functioning on mine after the first few town miles.... I assume you know the stop-start only kicks in when all of these are true: a) when you are in neutral with your foot off the clutch, b) when you are completely stationary and c) when the system measures that the battery is charged up enough to be sure your car will restart.

Lack of wheel arch liners applied to Up! as well. My 2019 Citigo came with wheel arch liners as standard.

No DSG was available on Up!/Citigo/Mii, (only the dubious ASG box) and 6-speed is only on GTi versions.... (In UK at least). The 60 or 75ps models are cheapest to own, and have no potential turbo hassles (common faults include faulty actuators check the Up! owners site), but if you need more power (and complexity), look elsewhere as Gerrycan says. The Citigo SE-L version has most of the key toys too....

Look on the VW Up! owner web site -lots of discussion of auto-lights, and at least 2 failures of cheap parts found on the web. The Citigo is essentially a rebadged Up! - it uses all the same functional parts... The differences are mostly cosmetic, with the Citigo looking far more grown-Up!

And the post-facelift 'box (from the Polo) is an excellent and slick one. And the light clutch is good.... I had an autobox for the previous 6 years, prior to my Citigo, but I barely notice that I have manual now. The last car also had 550Nm if torque, but I'm not really missing it in what is a great and economical city car (even living semi-rurally here!)

Rules it out? Are you buying an M3 instead? You should test drive a Citigo/Up!/Mii; they are great economical cars!

Yep, there is nowhere in the UK road system where a Citigo won't manage, but if you are looking for a Pike's Peak racer, then that rules it out, along with most other cars!

It will be fine, but require changing down a lot. Mine manages fine around Cornwall, which has hilly parts, but not as hilly as Durham...

Radio reception on mine (2019, Swing Radio) is excellent, both on FM and DAB, anywhere in the wilds of the far west of Cornwall. Same on the loan cars I have driven. I doubt it's just a "bad radio" that is fitted - there may be a fault such as a bad connection between the antenna and the rear of the radio - coax or power - and yes, that could be a generic weakness. Many antennas have integrated powered RF pre-amps, and while I don't know if these are fitted on Citigos, I do know of other cars that have had problems with failed pre-amps in the antenna or problems with corrosion on the terminals of the power feed to it somewhere along the route.

Look on ebay for typical prices as well. Not a bad place to sell, either. Or try facebook marketplace.

On mine, if I remember right, the bulb holder popped out with a bit if help from a small screwdriver. The bulb was a W5 wedge type and easy to swap (for a LED)

I guess the OP likes the look of alloys, and the difference to the suspension going from 14 to 15" is going to be almost imperceptible - if sensible tyre sizes are used, IMHO. Post facelift Up!s/Citogos were optionable with 14/15/16 rims but the suspension remained the same. The GTi uniquely has 17" rims and 25% stiffer springs (and uprated brakes) and consequently rides jarringly on UK roads. Far more info on wheel and tyre experiences on the Up! website for those interested.

Yes, the OP did say he was looking at 15" x 6J and not 16", which I missed. But he is after alloys, so I'm not sure showing two sets of steel rims (and all being 14") is going to excite him.... Still, the 15" wheels he is looking at are probably going to fit with 185 tyres, even with the +2mm of offset. Either way, when you fit a wheel that is not standard or manufacturer's option of a car, the insurer needs to be informed.

Assuming the pitch circle diameter is correct, and the hole in the centre is the right diameter, the wheel will fit. The issue is not just the wheels, but the tyres. You can conceivably end up with tyres that rub on full lock if they are at the limit of what you can put on 6J. Are the tyres going to be 185/50 x16, or may 195? I think 205's are at the limit of what is safe, but may rub? I have 185/50 x 16 6J ET43 "Skoda Serpens" (what the car had from the showroom) and they work fine, but are a touch hard riding, unless you set the recommended "comfort pressures".... I think lower profiles might rattle fillings out, as well as reduce grip and handling (a consequence of lack of compliance on "real roads"). There are a number of Up! GTi owners going from standard 17" to 16" to improve ride and handling. . .

25k miles? Leave it alone for another 25k, but look at it on each service for wear or damage. There is a FUD campaign going on in the UK to scare people into very early cambelt changes in order to generate revenue for dealers. It's basically a scam being spread largely through social media, and UK dealers.... And if the water temp is fine, and the waterpump sounds fine, and has no leaks, it is fine.

Bummer! Sorry! I did nothing fancy, I did not even cold-reboot (which has been helpful for other iffy apps in the past), because I expected it not to work no matter what I tried, but.... I just dragged and dropped the VW app onto "Remove", and immediately downloaded the Skoda app which burst into life. Later, I got the large European map (9+GB). It's still working several hours later! I was puzzling about what possible starting conditions at my end may have been different or could affect the outcome. I did happen to download the app while in the car, outside the dentist, waiting for my wife (using their public bandwidth, as I was bored, but still resisted the temptation to buy an AK-47 on the dark web, as you never know what might come in handy....), and I turned the car ignition and radio on before I started the app. Seems unlikely that might make a difference, but hey, full disclosure and all that.....

version 3.3.1 is now out. seems to work again! (for me). All 3 versions seem to have been up-revved to 3.3.1 - I assume the underlying code is the same but the UI seem to require separate builds! This is a mad way to develop! They should have one app with selectable skins, or have the skin auto-configure by getting, for example, the VIN off the car, or by using the radio's Bluetooth burnt-in MAC address, etc!

I used to be a coder, and often found that users had a problem that was not reproducible. But what a gift to the devs in this situation! - they have 3 apps that are essentially the same, bar the cosmetics, two versions work and (we know) one does not, so studying the differences in the builds should likely reveal the problem in the Skoda app. It can even be something as daft as incorrect handling of text that includes Czech alphabetic characters (see UTF-8 coding etc etc to get a feel for why this is not always simple). The best thing VAG could do is make the source code open source, if they don't have the skills to fix the issues....

Note that phone implementations of Bluetooth all (AFAIK) compress the data for transmission, and it's expanded on receipt in the radio. This kiboshes the use of WAV or other high quality formats for a purist. And we haven't even got into the quality of the DACs in most radio sets, or what the 70-odd dB of car background noise does to one's perception of dynamic range or signal to noise!

Yup. Regular trips help preserve a battery. But really, these days a battery over 5 years probably needs changing.

I was trying to be helpful, getting around a problem, but as "theBrighton" says, there are plenty of luxury cars with stereos that will probably not only play all the file formats, but also, some are quiet enough to hear the music with some detail! I too am very happy with my Citigo and its radio for the price, and with a 128G SD card, filled with playlists of MP3s, it holds about one quarter of every album I have (all stored digitally on a NAS/RAID unit). I didn't want to mention it, but also I use WAV regularly for recording my own live playing onto a PC, and to make collaborative tracks with friends playing other instruments - a great lockdown activity! My strict "HiFi" mates suggested we should record our source material at 24-bit, and 96kHz or even 192kHz, instead of using "olde worlde" 16-bit, 44.1kHz (CD quality and the usual WAV-file quality). I don't want to shell out however, for a more expensive ADC than I already have for my guitar & crunchy valve amp.... And interestingly, in the blind tests we've done, not a single one of my HiFi friends was able to identify which quality level was which, and one friend, consistently thought the MP3 version sounded best (albeit, in fairness, with very well ripped 320kb/s tracks). And this on HiFis that cost more than a new Up! GTi....

Sure, but I guarantee that in a car you will not be able to tell them apart. It's no real hassle to convert, especially compared with changing to a new radio !

No - it can't be updated in terms of firmware - it's a 'closed system'. It only plays MP3's or playlists like M3U's containing MP3's..... :( If you have to play WAVs, you'll need a whole new stereo installed. It is however, entirely impossible to tell a WAV file from a 256 or 320 kb/s MP3 when played on a fairly low-end system as fitted to cars though, so why not have 4 or 5 times the number of MP3's on the SD card? WAV files are huge by comparison. And if you are over 30, it's unlikely that you can hear a difference between a well-ripped 320kb/s MP3 and a full-CD quality WAV file on a decent stereo.... N.B. the "Swing" stereo cannot play FLAC or AAC files either, but making MP3's from WAV or FLAC or AAC - even if you only ever want them for the car - is trivial; the work of seconds. There are hundreds of free tools available. I tend to use this out of habit - https://www.freac.org/ as it also rips from CDs. And you probably know that tagging the MP3's is very useful - this is the best tool for that: https://www.mp3tag.de/en/ - but, while tagging WAVs is possible, it's not always the case that the tags can be be read by every media player - while MP3tag can tag WAVs, as far as I know VLC (far and away the best media player, IMHO) won't read the tags from a WAV.