Alpha2110

Its better looking than the mk3, im not sure about the lights though.

Ah well thats half the battle, at least its them who say its not right, that imo is a good thing. Its a shame it wasent 30 days or less, i wish i gave mine back after then.If your happy with the car not including the recent issue i would keep it otherwise your going to loose a ton of money unless you have a very nice garage who will buy it back without screwing you. They depreciate like hell as i am now discovering. If you are realy unhappy you can refuse a car under some circumstances, but i would get legal advice to get clear and concise advice on how to do it, 100 quid well spent and they will tell you immediately if you have chance.

What is the new noise and where do you think its coming from? As you are focusing on the noise from the gearbox, which is understandable, could it be somthing else, tyres, turbo howl, etc. My car does all sorts of funny things, different road surfaces different noise.

Even if you use the rubber protector on the jack, it still has a degloving effect on the underseal. I dont know if a hockey puck would be a better choice as it has a higher shore rating, i.e its harder and wont deform as much. Eather way if you buy some gray underseal to touch up if needed. I have seen people buy audi jacking pads on some threads on this forum but i am still not sure its a good idea even though there MQB platform so in theory should be the same. I would be intersted to see how skoda do it.

I bought this and its a good quality trolley jack and it comes in a case. http://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjl2-2-tonne-low-profile-trolley-jack?gclid=CKOU0ZnDsNECFU0aGwodYcMAHw Theyy also sell the rubber pad for the jack, there is no jacking pad as such on the car, you have to jack it on the pinch weld, as per the manual. Watch out when you jack the car up, as it takes the underseal off if your not careful,

This begs the question if the economy is that bad, why not just buy a petrol vrs. Even 40mpg is pritty poor keeping in mind a 330d is doing 46 real world.

Thats a realy low fuel mpg figure, even round town, 34mpg?. Are you screwing the car? Thats ridiculously low. It could be because its a new engine, however this is more lighly to cause a debate some say it shouldent matter and some are convinced the engine loosens up after 10k. I know its a different car but a relative of mine has a superb with a 184bhp dsg diesel and gets 50mpg average. There is not a huge performance difference, i know the map will be different but allowing for this to the tune of 15 mpg.

Just out of interest what brand of fuel are you using?

Yes the rear mud guard is a total joke, nearside rear. I riped mine off when the car was a day old, revercing on my drive, no damage done, the screws came through the mudgard!. Its held on the bumper via 2 allen bolts and on the fiber wheal arch liner. Its the total pits.Also dont be overzealous by jet washing the rear wheel arch liners, they go soft like carpet eventually, i noticed this when i test drove a three year old octavia. I suspect this will make the rear nearside bumper mudflap flex more.

You do drill the arch liner, a plastic rivit is used to hold the flap on to the arch liner. Its an easy job, make sure the mud flap is pushed up properly when you mark the hole. You will need to take the front wheels off, unless you have a realy fancy right angle drill with a short drill bit and even then its tight. The arch plastic is not thick but the hole needs to be as straight as you can get it as you want the rivit to sit as snug as posible as it will grip better. This is why i went for a drillbit .3mm smaller. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/380618-mud-flaps/

Could it not be a component of the ink touching the screen? It cant be in the screen so it must be residue of some description, unless its deliberate anti theft marking.

Mine has done this last winter, i put it down glue or ink used on the build sticker when the car went down the production line.

The link was ment to be ,are electric cars realy green I do think the future is in electric cars, just for spacific applications and i am a fan of hybrid cars. Again just there is far more involved in saying electric cars are better for the enviroment. And as for wood pellets thats as un ethical as carbon storage.

Its not the off peek i am disbelieving, this has to be renewable off peek, and by off peek we can realy rule out solar, and it has to be windy. Geographicaly we dont have the places to store energy in the same way the swiss do. Thinking electric cars use renewables to charge is wrong, people charge them in the day as they dont have the range to take them home, the power comes from all sources, drax being the biggest coal fired station. This can be factored in to the oil refinery electricaty consumption as this will use off peek renewable electricaty, if oil refinarys realy do use as much power as coventry i would find it hard to believe we would have any surplus power to store in the first place. This is why i beleve the video previously posted is misleading.

My point is basicaly if you care about the enviroment there is no ideal solution and electric cars dont negate a familys high energy consumption, the reality is we have to use less. Renewables are fantastic dont get me wrong but there is no where near the capacaty needed or the electrical infrastructure. We then have to condider smart grid solutions to maximise the renewable energy. The average housing estate could not suport everyone owning an electric car anyway or anywhere close, neather could the national grid, we simply dont have anywhere near the generating capability needed for everyone to plug in the car when they get in from work. This is why i think the best thing is for cars to have more energy recovery kers, intelegent alternator, teg etc. And most of all people learn how to drive energy efficent driving modes. The truth is most people dont give a dam about the enviroment and think you can buy the concept of being enviromentaly friendly to sooth the concience, when it realy comes down to it its what can i do without.

Your assuming the energy to power your electric car comes from renewables, what about fossil fuels coal, gas, even nuclear a clean fuel has losses, what about all the energy needed to process the uranium?What do you call enviromentaly friendly, co2?, what about small citys allover the world built up around mining? The energy to process uranium is incredible, to the pellets that go into the control rods is substantial. And a nuclear power plant is only around 35% efficient, three times the thermal energy needed per unit of electricity. Electricaty is used in oil production, but there are loads of other things made from oil as the video suggests, i also dont beleve the fag packet calculations from the video when it was totaly biased towards how fantastic electric cars are, richard lewellan is a electric car fanatic, i saw him at this years lcv event at millbrook. Oh and the main point how much energy do you think it takes to build an electric car? A darn sight more then a deisel. This may chainge in the future but today the energy that goes in to the manufacturing of batterys is substantial. Not to mention all the rare earth minerals for magnets, You would need to do incredable amount of miles to justify electric car for it be a more viable solution than diesel, i would say the energy used to build a electric outweighs any gain. I know people who have had electric cars, the batterys start to degrade after 6 months, not to mention there only realy good for 2000 full charges, this varies from battery to battery. And you need a second car so thats more energy needed during manufactre. So if you do 6k per year in the city is a note more enviromentaly friendly solution?. The ban on diesels in European city's is nothing but a cheep publicity stunt, basicaly this is worce for the enviroment where people are going to buy petrol?, this is what happens when organistions such a green peace manipulate data. Saying diesels take 8 years off peoples life, this is complete rubbish. Its actualy upto 30 days, there is far more science behind this, diet, smoking etc.

The thing to remember with diesels is there the most enviromently friendly as its the most energy dense fuel. However there has been widely publicised news on diesels being bad for peoples health, this is not as black and white as its made out. Electric cars are not the fantastic solution, if you take all the efficency losses from power station to motion, i suspect they would be more inefficent. The losses of a typical pmac motor ard 92% and inverter 85%, then battery, then drive train. These all add up, then we look at the conversion efficeny of the power station, then the national grid losses. Also the energy needed to make the thing, and rip half the planet to get rare earth metals, neodymium, lithium. The energy to process all this? So basically the only good thing about electric cars are it shifts polution from the city some where else. Also a full electric car is so comprimised you need a second car for that perfect middle class lifestyle people always dream of. So it costs you even more money and your not saving the planet. There is an argument for hybrid cars but these have some of the issues electric, the advantages being smaller electrical drive train so you can still dtive electric, but more slowly, ideal for traffic and when you actualy want to go places you can.

My car buzzes at 2000 rpm ish, right inside the dash, when the inside of the car heats up the facia on the radio creaks, with the door trim. The b pillar rattles. Each drivers air vent ticks and creaks. Basicaly i know i would not get anywhere with the dealer hence the reason i havent bothered. My conclusion to all this, hire one before you buy if posible, as this sort of stuff you dont pick up on when you test drive. And i dont think its brand specific eather i think the lighter cars get the more you notice this sort of thing. Its totaly annoying but as i say the aggravation you go through taking time out to drop cars off, then thay say, we have fixed it. Only to find thay havent, then back to the dealers. All this takes it out of you, hence i would not bother, unless its realy bad.

There is no garrentee any garage will take any buzzing or rattle seriouly as a warrenty claim, unless its very obvious or particualy loud. Basicaly any garage is not going to pay full economic cost for a mechanic to rip apart dashboards door cards or whatever, risk damaging them. More importantly they have to internaly justify the warrenty repair so the fault has to be repeatable. And the other issue is do you want a junior mechanic riping your car to bits, there going to put there more senior experienced guys on somthing more inportant.

I bought a six pack of the vw stuff from hortons skoda, apparently with fan jets they recommend the vw stuff as some products block the jets or partially block them. There will be other stuff out the that does the same job maybe finding the company who make it for vw. I had the new car bug when i bought it, it is steep but its realy good stuff. http://www.theskodashop.co.uk/product/VW_Group_Genuine_Screen_Wash_1L_G052164M2

This looks easy to fix and i would think it wont need painting eather, mainly as they can push most of it out from the back.

Interesting i thought the top part of the dash was all one unit, i.e the whole of the dash is one part. I looked into this and quite rightly told from knowlagable people on this forum not to even bother messing on with it as its all one unit. Mainly as it will never go back properly. I spent ages looking into it, but all the technical manuals indicate its one part, i know it looks like two and it looks like it can be unbolted, but unfortunately it isn't. I also looked at the part numbers and the is only one for the dash assembaly. I would be well happy if the top part of the dash is removable and has a seperate part number and can be purchased. Maybe you can get it if you remove the glove box, you can buy a cheep boroscope, maybe you can see it if you go through the glove box.

The most important thing here is to burn off all the condensation in the exhaust, ie drive it till all the condensation, steem goes from the exhaust. I once bought a 8 month old car that was owned by an elderly gentleman who only drove it a mile or so to the local village store. Basicaly every part of the exhaust was corroded, so much when you drove it water would pour from the exhaust. Not to mention mayonnaise in the oil. If your going to drive it short distances, service it more often and every week or so give it a good run and an Italian tune up.

Driven like what? Of cource you operate the clutch in a controled fashion however it extremely sensitive near the bite point, this takes getting use too, and is disconcerting coming from other branded cars. Also the 2.0d has at least 100N.m. more torque, different clutch and gearbox from a 1.4. Compleatly different animal.

50 psi is even higher than the delivary presures when the car is new, its not good for the car, you go through loads of suspention components, and not safe. 50psi is the safe working presure of the tyre, not the recomended presure when its on the car. Anyway the car will ride like a bag of hammers. Not to mention you will unevenly wear the centre of the tyre out.