Bertie90

Hi everyone my uncle has a 1.6 petrol Roomster and I noticed when doing an oil change that there is a leak from the sump where the blanking plate for an oil level sensor would be. I need to get that fixed anyway, but I was wondering, would an oil sensor work on it if I bought one? The parts catalogue seems to offer it on the fabia and the Roomster. I can see a plug sitting on the gearbox which looks like it's for that sensor and it reaches the sump. I have VCDS. Is it a plug and play type, does it need coding? My Roomster has the exact same thing, blanking plate with this extra plug. These old Roomsters don't have much going on with VCDS.

I no longer have the car. Thanks all.

you've also probably introduced air into the system hence why it won't start. You need to cycle the key a few times to let the pump push the air out. If it still doesn't work then you might need to pop the return fuel line and cycle the key until all of the air came out. If you're not car savy or don't feel comfortable handling fuel then you can guess what my advice would be.

Yes a friend of mine has something similar for his Audi and has saved his ass a few times with some expensive repairs. It's not really about the cost of electricity, it's more to do with the fact that some of my journeys are less than 4 miles long and the engine doesn't even warm up. With these plug-ins you can fire up the heating and AC without the engine being on via an app. I've researched the VW forums and nothing stands out as of yet regarding the 1.4TSI and the battery pack. But as I found out through own experiences, anything can go wrong. You just need a bit of luck and perseverance (and maybe a good warranty).

I don't have any info apart from what autotrader shows. 60k miles in 4 years. I'd imagine these are ex fleet or something. I'm wondering if it's excessive.

Looking to buy a plugin hybrid estate. 15k miles a year seems a lot in 4 years. There are lots of these available with these milages. Has anyone run these at these miles? any common issues? I intended to use it for short journeys only with the occasional motorway. I also got a greyhound and lot's of other hobbies which I need to haul around. Kayaks, bikes, possibly a boat etc.

I posted in the wrong thread sorry. Looking to buy a plugin hybrid estate. 15k miles a year seems a lot in 4 years. There are lots of these available with these milages. Has anyone run these at these miles? any common issues? I intended to use it for short journeys only with the occasional motorway. I also got a greyhound and lot's of other hobbies which I need to haul around. Kayaks bikes, possibly a boat etc.

Yeah I'm done with diesels. I don't do the miles for diesels. The most reliable cars I had were all petrol. Anyway thanks:)

It doesn't matter now as the guy didn't know anything of nothing and he said he doesn't accept offers even thought I didn't made an offer. Just called him for a viewing.

what I would do next is either swap injectors around to see if the issue moves to another cylinder. If not then do a compression test. You've done everything apart from these 2.

Found a cheap yeti 1.2tsi 140k and looking to see it. I have a 1.6 petrol and a diesel but not familiar with these small turbos. What should I look out for engine wise? turbo, smoke? I won't be keeping it for more than a year as I'm looking to get a new superb next year. I also only do short journeys with a greyhound in the back. Thanks

It was fine after the car sat for 4h, but 10 min into a motorway journey it started again, I'm suspecting bearing. But I never had one where it makes noise at low speeds as well and no noise in reverse.

Hi All I have a wheel noise coming from the front, it clunks intermittently as the wheel turns, gets a bit louder as I drive then it's not noticeable. If I drive in reverse there's no noise whatsoever. Same noise when cornering in either direction, it doesn't change. Is it a CV joint or bad bearing?

is this hose connected ok?

yes, they come with a code which equates to the tolerances of the injector (deviation). You enter that code in the VCDS then you run an adaptation on the engine where the car does it's own thing, revs up and down for a few minutes. You can ring the garage and ask. If the judder is because of an injector then it will get worse over time and will throw an error code indicating the issue. Don't spend anymore money until you know

personally, I don't think you need 1000miles to recalibrate anything, they have VCDS, they code the new injector which is essentially the deviation of the injector. They run an adaptation via VCDS where the car revs on it's on to establish the new injector values and you're good to go. Like I said to you, you will end up chasing this judder for ages, just drive it and if there's something broken then it will get worse eventually and it's about to show something. It's sht advice, but it's my best advice.

the egr on these might fail because of the actuator mechanism and also being clogged, You can't/shouldn't really try and fix it, just replace it if you managed to get it off. It will give you an error code if it was the issue. I think it's something to do with the fuelling system, injectors or pump or something like that. If we have the same problem.

I find that people are quick to blame this on the DMF. Mine had and still has the same issue since I bought it at 30k mile an now with 130k miles. Over the years I changed all mounts, the flywheel (mine didn't have a DMF) 4 injectors, a new EGR, DPF cleaned etc and it still does the same judder. My wife says there's nothing wrong, I say it judders for a few seconds when I accelerate or decelerate. Almost as if the engine wants to leave the engine bay. It's down to you to go through the process of elimination.

my 1.6tdi has 134k miles, I don't have a DMF just a solid flywheel. I have a judder too when under load and I think it's from my injectors. I spent £1000 on reconditioned injectors which are rubbish and now I live with it. If I go past 1500rpm it doesn't do it but anything below it starts juddering. I too in the past was chasing this judder, replaced all mounts and clutch + flywheel. When I put my foot down it feels like the engine is launching forward with a few 'bounces'. My wife says she doesn't notice anything wrong with the car I'm just OCD about everything. I drive it the way it is.

it's a well known fact that Mx-5s after a certain year don't have a real oil pressure reading. You can research it if you wish, I don't care that much to be honest, we have digresses from OPs post in typical forum fashion, my apologies.

of course not, I was referring to the original question. pre 1995 had real ones.

my 2007 roomster has a blanking plate where the oil level sensor is. I have a MX5 which indicates the oil pressure on the dash as you drive and even that one is not real, it's some sort of simulation driven by the revs. You need to fit one and code it with VCDS

thank you I did suspect that. Much obliged chaps.

Got a 1.6 petrol 130k miles from 2007. More generic questions more than roomster specific. Having issues with the battery is not holding much power especially since the weather turned. Power steering cut off and had to jump started this morning, considering I'm using it daily more than once. It's got an old Halfords battery, don't know the year but it looks old. I tested the alternator and it's registering 14.1 V at idle and lowest it went is about 13.6V when everything was switched on then climbed back to 14.1V Haynes manual states no more than 14v and no less than 12. Ideally between 12-13V. Is my alternator buggered? P.S. i have a brand new battery already waiting to be fitted but wanted to see if it's an alternator issue.

what type of AC module is it? what's written on it?