TheClient

Oh dear. I'm sorry but by the sounds of that level of usage the turbo was either totally kaput or there is the usual problem on 1.8Tsi ea888 on your car. The scraper rings get blocked due to their design and carbon blocks the return holes. The scraper rings become completely non functional. Compression is still good but the engine consumes a lot of oil and is subject to a lot of carbon fouling and build up. Hot spots in compustion chamber, carbon fouling Esp valves, valve seats. top of pistons. 1 litre in 300 or 400km. Let's call it 3 litres in 1000km is a lot of oil. A real lot of oil, it is going somewhere as well as the by products of combustion! Let's say your car averages 7 litres fuel per 1000 km. That is an oil to petrol ratio of 25:1. That is two stroke terriotory and the engine will just not cope with that consumption full stop. Valve stem seals would be extremely unlikely to allow that much oil to be consumed. If that consumption has not changed now, significantly, your scraper rings are knackered and the fix is to insert a new engine or replace conrods, pistions, rings with updated parts, which are improved but not a totally fail safe solution. Lots of discussion in the engine failures section sticky at the top of the threads.

If you don't get anywhere. I will cut mine open. Let me know. Tks

Mm. Maybe it is a one way valve then. seems strange, if you can feel pressure though, that means air flow! I'll try mine later. But I can 100% confirm there is nothing normally connected there on Europe spec cars.

It's part of the intake manifold. Presumably blocked off or blanked. Same on the 2.0 vRS. It maybe a specific country or region adaption like california with additional emissions gear.

Hi, so it turns out the one I could find which I have disassembled is a 1k0 951 605C which is interchangeable with 1k8 951 605 but the cct looks completely different and the supplier is different. The 1k0 951 605C was Bosch. I do have the 1k8 951 605 which was intact and operating when I changed it at the 6 year mark. But I didn't really want to cut it open when it was still functional. Do these photos in this forum provide any detail, you could ask the sender to send full res images? Would that give what you need? http://skoda-ural.ru/repair/remont-zamena-sireny-shtatnoi-signalizatsii-na-a-m-skoda-octavia-a5-fl

How much oil was it using before undertaking the valve repairs. how many Litres per 1000km?

Do you know about the EA888 1.8Tsi piston ring problems? Are you sure that hasn't caused the oil consumption and burnt valves? Don't spend more money until you know that is not a problem. If the timing chain and tensioner are pre mid 2012 then that is a ticking time bomb as well. Unfortunately, although the mark 2 is a good car, and the engine is a good unit when operating properly there were serious design flaws in the execution of the build and it is a complicated engine to work on so mechanics have to know what they are doing. Or else it will not be fixed properly or it will cost lost of money or even worse both of those!!

The solenoid activation will produce a click. It is just very prominent as it cyles on and off around idle on a lot of EA888 engines mine included. I've read that replacement usually result in a less noticeable sound but for how long I don't know as I hear the same feature on a lot of cars.

Oh no. could be a lot of things. VCDS code read? First guess would be coil packs or plugs, then move on to more expensive items. Hopefully your guys will be good at diagnostics and not just put this part in and see.... That can go on and cost a lot! Let us know how you get on. Good luck.

Sounds promising, the wiring would go from the accelerator pedal to the throttle body probably via other electronics so it could well be the fault. That is the trouble with fault codes, you also need some experience and sometimes trial and error. It would of been good to try a test with a similar car accelerator to make sure you don't replace for nothing. But fingers crossed.

Argh right. OK, sorry I assumed FL TSI but your already posted in your opening post the type. Well give google a go with searching for fast idle on VRS TDI or VW CEGA or similar. Take a voltage reading after letting the car stand overnight. Preferably without having to unlock and wake the car. Then compare that to the voltage at idle with all the consumers on, if it is higher the net position is still charging!

I do not believe the possible low voltage situation is affecting the idle. The ECM has no feedback loop to increase idle to compensate for a low charging current or battery depletion AFAIK. I can see the idle is creeping up. Search for Golf GTI mk6 surging or hunting idle, fast idle etc. Will bring up the usual suspects for that sort of issue. Vacuum leak of PCV oil separator faillure probable first places to start. Same EA888 engine in GTI mk6 as in Oct 2 FL Tsi. Unless you can do some fault finding to isolate where the problem is, I would take to an Auto Electrician, ask what they would check first. Maybe put the alternator on a test rig first and measure output out of car environment. Otherwise, wiring fault finding....... If there is a fault. At present it is not causing any electrical gremlins or faults or difficulty starting? So maybe just leave it until it causes an issue if you want to avoid costs. Of course, based on the laws of probabilities, these sorts of faults always rear their heads when you least want them to, like being 100s of miles from home, in the rain ... late at night.... make your choices!!

What is the voltage when you increase to 2000rpm and all major consumers on? I'd be happy with 13 to 14v. Ideally 13.5 or more but at lower end it should still be charging. Has this caused any starting or electrical issues?

The standing ride heights for different chassis are published (assuming they they are correctly reflected): https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/axles_steering/wheels_tyres._axle_align/chassis_specified_values_of_steering_geometry/rear_axle_specified_values_of_steering_geometry/ 380mm for front and 376mm for rear, my estate on original sus is about 375 Front and 364mm rear, respectively, so sagged noticeably at rear. And that is how it looks to the eye. You will also see there are variants of standard ride height based on different PR susbsets and this is where the confusion can come on 15mm vs 18mm vs ?? ride height differences. It depends on the exact specification of the standard car you are comparing to. So far as ordering parts, I much prefer to use a detailed aftermarket catalogue such as Meyle or Lemforder or Bilstein and match that for the exact orginal vehicle part listed and backward check, it is also not the same part as listed for a standard non sports vehicle. But doing so can still create some confusion as in the below example: Take this listing of sports chassis front springs for octavia mk2 estate - 2UC chassis: Mine has red white and pink dots so assume it is 1K0 411 105 DB. If you then search on that oem code on Auoto Doc you get a heap of spring options but most are listed at 307mm vs the eibach at 296mm. Some, even the Bilsteins B£ OEM, do not specify. I think I would want to call the manufacturer and ask before committing!!! Confusing: Yes, I think I'd agree. OEM Part Listing: part code title note quantity data model information suspension shock absorber (spring cyl.) for vehicles with lowered running gear anti-roll bar estate car: fr.wheel drv PR-2UC 1 1K0 411 105 AL coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark 1 paint mark red white blue 2 PR-L03 (1) 1K0 411 105 EQ coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark also marked with: 1 paint mark 1 paint mark 1 paint mark green blue red white green 2 PR-L74 (1) 1K0 411 105 AT coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark 2 paint marks red white blue 2 PR-L10 (1) 1K0 411 105 DA coil spring 3 paint marks 1 paint mark red grey 2 PR-L55 (1) 1K0 411 105 DB coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark 1 paint mark red white violet 2 PR-L58 (1) 1K0 411 105 DC coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark red violet 2 PR-L59 (1) 1K0 411 105 DD coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks red violet 2 PR-L62 (1) 1K0 411 105 DE coil spring 1 paint mark 3 paint marks red violet 2 PR-L63 (1) 1K0 411 105 FB coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark 2 paint marks red white green 2 PR-L75 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/1k0411105db

Guess you are going to do some systematic testing of the charging system, alt output, voltage, voltage drops on main conductors to alternator vs battery etc. Or take it to an auto electrician. 13.6V is not far out of spec is it? Is the charge / alt light showing on the dash, when the engine is not running, what about when running and you turn on the consumers?

There is previous posts on this very subject. In short the standard ride height of RS models was said to be 15mm lower. There are colour rings on the springs which indicate their type. The other thing to be aware of the original springs on RS models were different between Estate and Hatch. The reason why it is confusing is that the aftermarket consolidate the number of spring options available so there is often far fewer options than the original fitment.

I doubt you'll find A circuit diagram from Skoda as they only supply the replacement part. Bosch is the manufacturer if I recall correctly. I even contacted varta for the official cells and they said oem only contact vehicle manufacture. I know you can adapt similar cells. I've got one or two sirens in the shed from when I've replaced. I could try and photo the area of the damaged board assuming it is intact on my old units.

Good result, sometimes it is better to buy new as you never know the status of the replacement part or indeed if it has the same fault!

PS a full scan and an output test of the Throttle body (if available) on VCDS not a bad idea before splashing cash.

There is reference to a wiring repair in North American Region vehicles. Doesn't seem to apply to Europe. Still, Maybe worth looking at the technical bulletin to see if you think it could be a solution. Otherwise, check wiring continuity or replace throttle body control unit which maybe only available with the whole throttle body? I haven't noticed anyone posting this sort of fault on here in the last 4 years I've been here. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16605/P0221/000545 Control module. No 1 in pic.