TheClient

Touching wood whilst I reply. I have a 2011 vRS. Almost 70k miles. I've had it for 4.5 years and last 36k miles. Did have the tensioner chains and guides changed, the day after purchasing as I was well aware of the problems. I have done all other maintenance and servicing. She has been reliable. I have replaced the PCV a year or so back due to a lot of oil building up around the turbo intake. Use 5W40 VW502.00, oil usually Mobil super 3000x1 or Shell helix ultra. Very little oil use over 7k-8k miles 12mth intervals. Sometimes I do not top up between otherwise. 0.5L. Fuel consumption for me not amazing. Mixed driving some short duration trips for shopping drops for children as well as longer trips on weekends. Lifetime average is 30mpg mixed. And I rarely drive heavy footed. Only occasionally stretch the legs a little for a short stint.

Can't help you on that level of detail but you may already be aware, there is one or two electronic repairs who can probably recondition the unit via postal service. If you can do without the car for a few days. A few appear on here fairly regularly and most people seem to be happy with the service. Also this may be relevant although the photos no longer work.

I'm not sure if it can be replaced separately. It doesn't seem to be listed in that part listing. But I had to cut the retaining straps on mine to allow it to be removed. It is tight working if you only have the car on Jack and stands. I reused the fixing screw though and the cage still supports the filter. No cable ties for me but if you must and the ties are secure I wouldn't worry.

It is 41 and it is 15A the point I was making is that many times people don't realise the fuse layout schematic is reversed right to left. So assuming you do have power at the fuse, per @J.R. how did you test it out of vehicle? I have a failed rear wiper in an estate that became very inteermittent, I think it was a PCB issue rather than motor / brushes as that all looked good. And a new motor fixed it. It may not be your wiring!

Is it the cannister screw on filter or the reusable outer casing in which you insert a new mesh filter inside? Either way, I'd be hopeful it is the filter, the filter outer cracked or the o ring in the bottom of the cannister is damaged. If it is not it will be the housing but it's pretty robust. You need to buy a spare filter, a spare oring if the re-usable outer casing type and remove to see what is going on.

It's all covered in the failure thread. There is no real change. AFAIR I still don't recall a single subsequent failure from the most recent tensioner revision. It is a matter of time with the old tensioner revisions, especially very early ones, I'd factor replacing it and the chain and guides into the purchase. The wet 6SP DSG is pretty reliable, is regarded as such and has been in practice for me anyway. DSG Oil and filter need to be changed every 40k miles. So you should be approaching second change in next year or two. The DSG service is not cheap almost £200 in uk. If there is no record of any change, it could be a worry. If you have to work done on the DSG box they are expensive and there are limited service centres that are experienced. Those are downsides I guess. If the previous owner liked launch control clutch packs can wear and DMF can fail. Mechatronics can fail as well, but overall it's a fairly proven reliable unit in the main.

Ok. I understand, but which position have you been checking and what was the rating? From memory, rear wiper is a stand alone fuse, so probably wouldn't impact anything else. I.e. you are probably looking at a fuse on 6th row down from top. But what position from left or right as you look at fuses?

I'd check the fuse again. It's caught scores of people out before. What position do you think the the rear wiper fuse is at? Rows down from top and position number left or right? What is its rating? Also once you know the fuse location 100% check fuse with multimeter not only visually. Or put a new one in.

Worth a read. Expands on what I wrote above. Bear in mind also written from a DSG 6Sp wet clutch set up. So your experience maybe a little different of you have the 7Sp dry clutch arrangement. Enough to say the DSG set up can catch you out if you are not experienced in how it thinks... vwroc.com/forums/topic/8915-an-interesting-dsg-users-guideworth-a-read/

Hard to say with the limited description. On the 6SP Wet clutch DSG, the DSG engages the clutch when brake is applied. So it often helps say if on a flat, to remove foot from brake a moment earlier before applying throttle. That way the drive has started to be taken up when applying throttle. Another scenario is if you enter say a round about from stationary under quick acceleration and momentarily back off the DSG will almost always immediately shift to 2 and sometimes even 3. if that happens and you then apply more throttle it will appear to lag as the engine will be in a higher gear than what you may have expected. I suggest as far as you can try to glympse at the DSG gear indicator on the dash to see what gear is it in when the issue arises. Also, try to remove the brake pressure momentarily before applying the throttle from standing, when on flat or slightly declining road, so drive has started to be taken up. I have driven several pre hill hold DSG 6Sp and for me they are a good compromise but do require some adaption of driving styles. If yours is the 7Sp it maybe different but I suspect the clutch engagement / disengagement would be a similar characteristic. Other than that, maybe check boost levels under WOT.

The facelift Oct 2 vRS that uses a CCZA engine is a gen 2 Ea888 with IHI20 RHF5. K03 was used in the Mk5 Golf / Mk2 (non facelift) vRS AFAIR. turbo.

It depends who the engine was supplied by and when manufactured, but assuming Skoda genuine supplied long block and 2017, then very likely. All the mods were during 2012 from memory, which was towards the end of the 2013 model life. That said, I do not know the supply chain or dealer service approaches in India so have based this more on what happens in UK / Europe.

Get a VCDS scan or if you have to a cheap OBD scan for starters. That should give some clarity on the engine warning light at least. Has it stay lit? I don't think they are related. I have been wrong once or twice before mind you! The oil level sensor or wiring sound faulty. TCS not sure, maybe corroded ABS parts on the hubs. Engine lamp - need scan!

Yes, that was a silly comment. Of course the wastegate can partially open within a fairly small range by the looks of that video. I think unless you want to risk buying a new genuine (or OEM equivalent) actuator your only option is to get someone with VCDS to look with you. Log RPM and boost pressure whilst inducing the fault. You may be able to do that with other OBD reader but VCDS is much fuller featured as you know. If there are adaption values or a reset procedure in VCDS use that. I looked at the posts you cross referenced as well as a good few others. The thing that seems strange to me is that 1600 rpm would be a very low RPM for the engine to start regulating boost pressure by opening wastegate. Is there a good tension pulling the wastegate closed. Have you got someone to turn engine on / off. Rev car so you can look at the actuator rod movement in operation in your car? I'll leave you at it now. Best of luck getting it solved.

Interesting. Ok. I don't have experience of your engine / turbo so I searched a bit more. I've done some reading. It seems like there are a decent number of posts about that combo regarding turbo problems and work arounds after garages recommend turbo replacement. The actuator your engine uses is different to other turbos i've had in my vehicles. Also, there is no mechanical calibration possible as it is not threaded at either end. So it must be electronic calibration or nothing. That may support the turbo rebuilder response that said no calibration required. Of course if you change the throw length by inserting a spacer, maybe some engine ECU parameter does also need to be altered with it. Not totally sure what though as the wastegate actuator operation is on and off only isn't it? Based on reading, the shim recall required reprogramming of the EPC at the same time. I don't fully understand why per previous paragraph - but was this done? Have you considered replacing the actuator with a new unit to confirm it is not faulty actuators? Yes, boost levels at the revs your having problems at might help or someone with VCDS to log a run. It makes fault finding easier and less of a throw parts at it approach. Have you looked at the VCDS member locator? Failing that, there is one of the posts I have come across showing that after removing the heat shield, and the actuator, and the Vband clamp of the turbo it is easy enough to get access to the turbo waste gate itself and clean up the carbon make sure it is not sticking etc. This is assuming your turbo is a conventional wastegate set up not a VNT set up. There seemed to be some confusion in some posts I saw but the photo that I saw in a thread was definitely a wastegate set up. What is your engine code and or series if you know it?

Well you are " lucky" in one sense that you have some error codes. That will make it easier for a dsg rebuilder to advise you pre strip down. My guess would be the mechatronics unit but give one or two dsg tranmission rebuilders a call for views and opinions if nothing forthcoming here. It can't hurt to check electrical connections for the transmission but if it's virtually anything else the transmission will need to be removed.

I'd say if this pic here is representative of your engine @Wino is spot on - part of EGR system, which if I am following correctly ends up going to the valve module near the intake manifold around front of engine. For your next question - exactly what that specific pipe does - I do not know but someone on here may do!

Never would of guessed that in a million years. Experience from a dealer pays, sometimes!

Reminds me of a true story I've blocked out from my youth. I learnt to drive in a manual as well in a southern hemisphere location. Maybe that makes a difference! I also was told to leave cars in neutral on flats. Not on steep hills. Anyway, I digress, so when I first got my licence I used my mum's car which was quite a new honda prelude from the mid 1990s with 4WS. The car was automatic as my mum only drove automatics. 2 factors combined to create a rather embarrassing incident when i was about 17 or 18. At the girlfriends house, at the top of a steep hill I had hastily exited the vehicle. Handbrake on. Car I thought put into park. Actually because of the press button transmission release I had stopped short and it was in R. So after about 20 mins as the car had a tendency, the handbrake would start slipping on the rear disks unless pulled on very hard.. A knock on the door, some neighbours came by to say the car had rolled down the hill and badly taken out one car which bumped into another... It was quite a long way down that steep hill and none of the cars were writeoffs but it was not a cheap incident for the insurers and was not my proudest moment...

Pretty wet here at the minute. Id go so far to say very wet. If you trace the other end then I or you or others can trace a parts diagram - hopefully. The other possibility is someone looks with same engine car!!

What’s the connected end plugged into.?

Some further good explanation and description in here. They say 100mb for the EA888 but i have some repair documents with photos documenting 25mb. In any case it is a lot lot less negative, than manifold engine vacuum. http://karmakanix.com/knowledgebase/engines/gas-engines-vw-audi/2-0t-engine-tfsi-fsi-audi-vw/2-0t-oil-consumption-pcv-breather-valve/

Yes. the vacuum present should be no where near as high as manifold vacuum at idle. I tried measuring vacuum with a normal engine vac gauge on my EA888 engine and couldn't get any reading. I was told the pcv vac at idle in my engine is supposed to be about 25 millibar...

Op. No experience of this issue here, but as you say, it has to be coming from intake manifold and that means faulty pcv doesn't it? https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/index.php?threads/high-crank-case-vacuum.147042/ Did you replace the pcv with a new, genuine part?