TheClient

Welcome. Thanks for this. As you may know the estate version is not quite as susceptible to failure as the hatch version due to the routing of washer pipework through the shaft on the hatch. Which is usually a recipe for failure. Nevertheless, as with yours, my estate version became intermittent then non functional after about 8 years. I pulled it out cleaned and lubed gears and used contact cleaner on the commutator and brushes. Also made sure there was brush length left and they were holding the brushes against the commutator. Reassembled, it worked slightly better but still intermittent then shortly after same again. In the end I got fed up and bought a aftermarket magenti morrelli motor which, while not genuine price was still £40 or £50. I've still got the original genuine in the shed I may go and have a look at those contacts! . Thanks for the post.

You'll need to find someone who can do some diagnostics. A fault log read would be a place to start. You could log boost pressure under WOT in say third and see if it is lacking below 3000rpm. If it was then it could be the diverter valve or turbo wastegate or even something else like loose intake pipework. No one is going to be able to tell you with any confidence what it is with that level of info. You will just be getting guesses..

Nothing in here you probably aren't already doing but on the causes of alignment issue - there are a lot - low voltage is one. Also suggests dirty TB as I mentioned above....

Mmm. It could be the TB then. Or the pedal itself - it is drive by wire on an 07? I wouldn't do anything until you get a recurrence. You could try using a TB cleaner if it is gunked up. I haven't seen many cases of the TB going faulty on here but maybe it is just one of those problems dealers or garages are dealing with... There have been a few with throttle alignment or implausible signals that have resulted in replacement of the pedal electronics. I would also check all the main electrical terminations. Oct Mk2 are very fussy about voltages and low voltage, whether a weak battery or poor condition wiring can cause a multitude of gremlins.

The white or high pitch sound is a characteristic. Mine certainly does it once the ignition is activated even if the car isn't started. You also heardr the throttle body flap open and close when turning ignition on. You can output test the throttle body with vcds. If it's not showing throttle related codes I would be inclined to think it's ok. Have you replaced the battery, checked terminals, main wiring and earth straps for loose terminations or corrosion?

Photo of mine.

If you go to 7zap and look up the spark plugs (you may have already done this) quite often the genuine part is sourced from more than one manufacturer and usually Beru, NGK, or Bosch. It may also list the gaps and resistance values. There can be slight differences in gap and resistance but honestly I don't think you will notice on a standard engine. Soemtimes aftermarket equivalent parts are slightly different again to in terms of specs. If you want total compatibility without looking at lots of spark plug charts and technical docs get the genuine but they are often at a premium. I have used Bosch and NGK after market equivalents most often but know that BERU is an alternative as well. Usually a little harder to source but depends on your motor factor.

The black cap looks more like the genuine design. Is that the original? The other thing to check, apart from the usual hoses, if it is still leaving puddles is the actual reservoir starts to get cracks in it and can start to leak with age.

Any. On a standard car I don't think you will pick a difference.

one member's experiences. There are other video on the net too.

There is somone who managed to get the bush and actuator mechanism repaired. This was to get the wastegate to seal properly as it would not hold boost properly once it wears. They used a specialist turbo rebuilding company. I have no idea if it changed the "rattle". It is possible new bushes and a tighter mechanism may be better but bear in mind these did it from new. I installed a wastegate clip and I have never really noticed it since. Maybe it is still there a bit. Just I do not notice it now.

Clean the intake ports and valves when the inlet manifold was off?

These guys were mentioned positively in another 1.8tsi rebuild scenario. The costs were in the region of £3,200 plus VAT and that was a few years ago. Also, not exactly derby but closer than kent! Halesown Engines - https://www.halesowenengines.co.uk/ Give them call? See what you / they think.

Most garages who do rebuilds, will strip down and send out all the head, block etc to engineering places, then re-assemble with new parts as necessary. Sounds like McEwans want a complete refurb engine so they just do the engine removal / installation? I've seen that kent one mentioned on here before and if I remember someone posted on here with a BMW rebuild gone wrong. Unless there is a track record I'd stay clear.

Yes, Ok, but what mileage do you do oil changes at and what were the oil change intervals for the first 60k miles as the problem was probably already starting a long time before this moment of investigation. I've used Lion garages in Hinkley, the have a branch in Derby trading as McEwans garage. I have no affiliation and I haven't used that branch but my experience of their other branch was that they knew their stuff. Give them a call and ask what they do with these failed CDAA engines. The technincal TPI calls for new pistons and conrods to accommodate an improved but not perfect ring design. You also may have some head / valve work to be done and you'd be crazy not to do the timing chain at the same time. From what I've heard on here before upwards of £3k but come back and let us know what you find out? I'm sorry it is depressing, as it is a poor poor outcome, that a vehicle can be reasonably well maintained and need new rings pistons and associated work at 117k miles.

Yes, I use the carbon activated - mann and bosch at times. Look virtually identical, I can not discern any difference between the two.

That is probably the big warning sign of oil scraper ring problems that then turns into bore and piston problems as well as oil and carbon contamination. How much oil in how many miles? Unfortunately, It is probably a full rebuild a new engine or a second hand engine. But a second hand engine is only a worthwhile bet if you can find one that has had the piston and conrod upgrade already. And that's not all that easy. Oh and it is a widespread problem on those engines. Long life servicing makes thing worse. What regime are you one?

Ok, well you could start by checking the 3 pin body harness connector. Between pin 2, ground and and 3(constant 12v), you should get 12v. Otherwise car wiring or source electricals are faulty. After plugged into the car overnight or having rigged up a harness to give the alarm 12V, you could test the battery voltage on the board to make sure it is showing charged voltage. That would require cutting the replacement item though. I thought the activation might be a switched 12V but it is lin bus, so I confess, I do not know how you would emulate an alarm activation message to get it to activate. But if it was plugged in I would have the cars windows down, lock car with fob once to activate alarm, wait 30 seconds, then wave hands inside the car to trip the alarm sensors. There will probably be error codes stored but when I have replaced faulty units, they have not required clearing to get alarm to operate. If it is a different model alarm perhaps it needs coding, I don't have VCDS so I have never done that. Refer to that russian article for pin numbering as it is 1,3,2. Left to Right, looking at the ALARM UNIT PINs from FRONT of alarm. Pin 1 to T73b- white-C-36 - LIN bus, alarm horn Pin 2 to Ground Pin 3 to Terminal 30/Constant 12V

When I've replaced an equivalent model in an mk5 golf, that was inoperative, it worked straight away even though there was an error code previously. Can you test the siren operates with 12v to the appropriate terminals? It may be faulty??

Hi Welcome, On a EA888 CCZA engine, it is the timing chain tensioner at risk. I would consider replacement which is normally done along with chain and guides as it is a lot of work getting in there. The OEM and aftermarket specific plugs are pre-gapped. 0.7mm for Bosch, and 0.8mm for NGK. Hopefully, you've got one where there is a good history of oil changes less than 10k mile intervals. These engines, with carbon build up issues on scraper rings don't like extended variable servicing very much.

Oh. good. They do release updates from time to time which seems to cure some faults which arise. Always amazes me, as how has it been running of for the last 11 years. But if all is good. Then that is good.

Hi, need more car details, engine, transmission. Also, probably need a full VCDS or dealer grade scan for errors logged. Have you checked transmission fluid levels. That would be a sensible start.

Mmm. Yes, you're right. I've never removed it. But it shouldn't be too hard he says.... Rhetorically! I'll do a quick search on online manuals and see if it brings anything back. https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/body/body_work/trim_noise_insulation/luggage_compartment_trim_panels/removing_and_installing_the_side_luggage_compartment_trim_panels_(octavia_combi_ii)/

Maybe set to variable interval servicing. Not sure the button press would work in that case. May need vcds. Is this a new to you car?

There is one torx screw to remove the pull handle then the rest is all clips as far as I recall. It was difficult and some trim levers help to get under the trim at the corners to pop the first fastner or two. There must be about 10 fastner. 4 along top. 4 along bottom. Extra 2 A long side I damaged quite a few of the retainers pulling it off on two occasions. They are very very very firm. But tge trim is still pretty firmly installed despite this.....