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Everything posted by Kris82
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T10 501 W5W CAR SIDE LIGHT LED CANBUS
Kris82 replied to promethian's topic in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-blades-batteries/car-bulbs/halfords-501-filament-led-upgrade-bulbs-x-2 The only ones I've had that actually lasted. -
Egr cooler cracked internal?? Had this with my Audi b7 1.9tdi, water would evaporate through the cooler then out the back, not enough to be smokey but enough to lose coolant mysteriously. Deleted the whole thing, no more water losss.
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- coolant
- water pump
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(and 1 more)
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Also to add to this, your car before fix should have regenerated around the 800 mile mark, but after fix it apparently should then regen every 300 miles, hence the warning lights after fix, maybe.
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I have heard that Audi won't do it though even if fault occurs after 'fix'.
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vw will do a regen just as a courtesy on vw cars assuming there are no fault codes from the dpf stored before the fix. It's worth a phone call to skoda to see if they will do it out of courtesy.
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Thanks for reply. These turbos on the cr tdi rely on vacuum to work which confuses things a little as we are blowing into the actuator and not sucking, but i'm sure its still not supposed to leak either way?? One things for sure when I replace old one I'll be cutting open actuator to see how the rubber diaphragm actually works.
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All week I've been trying to identify my boost problem, car will not boost until 3000-3500 revs and when it eventually does it goes into limp mode. Last 4 cars have been vag tdi's so I know this will be vac/air leak related, it has same symptoms as boost leak, vac leak, sticky veins etc. So after a few days of vcd's and checking dpf, sensors, egr, manifold actuator, boost solenoid and pipes are fine I checked the turbo actuator. Easy test on the cr tdi's... start car, take vac pipe on and off actuator and watch if actuator rod moves, which it did but not enough. So as I don't no smoke machine my mate blew his 'vape' fag through the actuator vac pipe and what do know, 'vape' was pouring out through where the rod exits the actuator. So I'm assuming this is not normal but need your guys help just to confirm that a leaking actuator obviously needs replacing?? Any help appreciated. Also if you lovely people are struggling to find an air/vac leak, them 'vape' fags are brilliant in finding the leaks. Any comments welcome. Cheers.
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It's what they sell at the dealers and just as cheap there. Always used Quantum in all my vags.
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Dashboard light up like a Christmas tree
Kris82 replied to paulh43's topic in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
Lights go off after driving for a while? Low battery can cause this on start up as there's not enough power to the abs system throwing up lights on dash. -
When pushing my vrs cr tdi i get flat spots at 3 1/2 thousand revs in 4th and 5th gear, I've searched on this site with no definite answer. Car regens often and I know there's no blockages. Any ideas how to resolve this or is it just another vrs hicup. My last fabia vrs tdi done this but was resolved with a simple larger inlet hole plate on the egr? Any body else have this problem? Many thanks Kris
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Regens occurs every 300 (or around that mark) miles not on time or when. I do around 250 miles a week or more, I get a regen almost every week. When the needle is sitting on 1000 revs when stationary take it for a blast keeping the revs high. Cannot see a map being at fault, when a dpf regens the car uses more fuel anyway to heat things up. Egr clean may help as it maybe stuck open causing more soot. My friends Audi 2.0tdi had complete dpf failure a month back even though she drives it hard, but she use to sit in car for upto an hour stationary with engine on (loves her phone lol), hence causing blockage all the time. Hope you sort your issue.
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Bonnet lifts on fl. Anyone fitted them?
Kris82 replied to Kris82's topic in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
Ahh excellent thanks, I will fit my own strut but the pictures on that link will help me. Thankyou -
Little dissapointed the vrs doesn't have bonnet lifts I'm assuming the Lawrence Clement does. Has anyone fitted them to their fl? Or is there a guide? I can get my own struts. Search didn't pick up much info. Thanks
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Simple method to test... make sure headlights are on auto and bright enough for them to be off, put hand over sensor on windscreen (behind mirror on these I think), lights should come on, remove hand see how long it takes for lights to go back off.
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Winter here, my standard bulbs are rubbish, I know the usual good bulbs to are get (osram nightbreakers, Phillips extreme vision, ring 120%) etc, but I've seen these on Fleabay.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/C7-80-120W-6000K-White-CREE-LED-Headlight-Kit-H1-H3-H4-H7-H11-9006-HB4-Car-Bulbs-/291893160258?var=&hash=item43f6302942:m:mK8AcT9OmXxnpvV2FLgj7-A Sorry if been questioned before, anyone took the plunge and tried them??? Assuming they don't have to be coded.. Many Thanks Kris Instagram @octyvrsfl
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Mine, carbon di-noc bottom, top raceblue.
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I've noticed this too. I wouldn't be surprised if the ecu recognises winter due to temperature so keeps them on. Not your answer I know just cars are so clever these days. Also my lights come on as soon as car hits 90 mph. (not a regular thing just saying)
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A mapped fabia vrs (pd130) does this and previously owning one everyone asked the same question and the response was 'it's just normal'. My mates mapped pd130 does this now. Only seems to happen once mapped. Not much help I know but just to let you know a lot of people have this on their mapped pd's and are not worried about it.