Kris82

There wasn't enough room for me to attempt mine. Removing bolts holding actuator on is easy enough but there's no room to undo actuator nuts as it's down between back of engine and turbo. New actuator £125-£135 and I paid £60 to have it fitted. You need to check if actuator is leaking first. A simple hard blow through pipe is all that's needed.

Thanks for the info guys, I was very shocked when I seen a 66' plate clio rs without them as standard. I think I'll remove the other side and if brought up in mot I'll just buy another and fit both back on.

A few weeks ago my rear disc shield decided to come loose and snapped off it's three bolts holding it on. With a bit of twisting and cutting it's now off the car completely. I've drove over a thousand miles now with it off and had no problems at all with it missing. I'am about to purchase one but I seen a new Renault Clio Rs yesterday at my place of work and that didn't have a brake shield on any of the discs not even at the front! I also know a guy running his vxr without them. My question is are they really needed? Tempted to take the other rear one off to match instead of purchasing something unnecessary. Anyone any suggestions?

Same here, mot tester phoned me to come down to explain side lights won't come on, I got down there and both my headlights were off the car. Doh!

My car was smoking the same as that when eventually it started going into limp mode. Turned out to be actuator not holding boost, leading to over fueling giving out smoke that colour as the dpf is trapping most of it. Blow through the actuator to see if holds pressure. (Obviously use proper pressure gauge if you got one). hope it's not your turbo seals.

1st option change the seal, 2nd to that I'd take out rear lights clean the whole area as behind them builds up with green (mossy) stuff. Check for any run marks.

Good interesting write up. I'm on 139,000 now, had turbo actuator fault and o2 sensor changed recently, other than that car been faultless. Rear washer doesn't work and wiper got stuck (very common vag fault). Free'd wiper all good, not bothered about washer though. Looking to hit the 200,000 before I get rid (roughly 3 years).

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0684-obd-ii-trouble-code-glow-plug-control-module-to-pcm-communication-circuit-range-performance-by-valerie-johnston Points out everything to look for.

Clutch, turbo, vacuum pipes, dpf. As long as you think your clutch could handle the extra power, your turbo is healthy with no boost leaks including vac lines, dpf regens as it should (i'd personally have it gutted to go with map) all should be ok. If you know your car and well maintain it go for it.

Your lucky with the bolt. Sensor will need to be tapped out from other side :/ Then clean the hole up for new sensor. personally I'd be tapping it with hammer and flat head screwdriver until you get some movement, doesn't matter if you chip away bit by bit if your replacing it anyway.

I take it the hex bolt won't come out? has it been rounded?

Darkside developments do a fake 'lookalike' dpf delete pipe for £250.

Think it's just on the vrs.

I'm soon to go down this route, just had turbo actuator replaced first as it was leaking. Im going for dpf gut and remap. May as well get rid of restrictions while it's in. Ill be left with visible dpf and fittings but gutted, no dash lights and more power ☺️

Yes same as my engine.

2010 CEGA Engine. The egr delete kit goes there to.

See no.1

Take a look at this video on YouTube: http://youtu.be/u7cFPfr0WHU

Looks like mine is on front and is a cr.

Is it attached to the cooler on these??? Whats that on top of my anti shudder valve then with egr pipe coming from it?

It's not that bad a job taking it off a cr engine as it's right in front. Theres one annoying long Allen key bolt at the back but accessible when dip stick bracket is removed, the rest is quite easy to access. Egr pipe can stay there just bolts need to come out obviously. No spray or cleaner is good enough without a good old scrape or brush.

Right hand side, pipe coming off air box with sensor plug coming from it. Problem with maf?

Just seen video, Seems very stuck, but I would still suggest opening the handle from the outside and 'uncliping' the wire from the handle with a flat head screwdriver. You've probably tried it though seeing how far you've gone. I'd spray a **** load of wd40 into the mechanism now you got access to it.

Outside car....Banging the door just below handle while locking then unlocking the car a good few times. Or Push the door into body while handle is open.

All down to pot luck then. Mine still going strong in the A3.