raky

Dear Pete, hope I have not spoiled ur weekend, Thank you so much for sparing time on weekend so kind of you. Yes I remembered thermostat or ECT was changed but since I have opened ECT recently and found that it was original vw so cannot be that I am certain now that it was thermostate was changed when my car temperature gauge was not working must be around 6 years back. As I drive 30 miles so before going to mechanic I had bought bought thermostat & ECT and later returned back ECT because it did not have O-ring , and returned thermostat and re bought again euro parts. I have even requested my humble mechanic for changing all parts he Kindly refused as wanted to save my bucks . Thanks for advice will do as advised change both these parts live in very hot temperature should be strong and of good quality. I have only local option srsparts or Europarts. "By loom testing you have proved that if those thresholds are reached and the switches activate, the relays inside the FCM will turn on to power to the fan. There are no electronics within the fan." Thanks for confirming please, relived now. "If the engine shuts down unexpectedly after a few minutes of idling, there must be some other problem completely separate from any of this stuff, I think." Please excuse me on my ignorance , this behaviour have been noted few times , as o2 sensor has been disconnected currently running on default values so possibly could be something to do with that , hope my ECU is not faulty which is unable to send the signal for fan or causes abnormal shutdown. I understand shortening 1,2 & 1,3 pins of radiant switch would have tested smaller switch of FCM functionality and FAN health but do u think I need to test 4 pin bigger switch of FCM for I/O voltage after warming car to make sure all going ok, assuming it gets instruction from ECU for fan when temperature crosses threshold. Please find some document found which may be for different car but may be close to my car FCM. Please correct me if my understanding is incorrect , is there any voltage check can help me if after changing ECT and thermostat switch the issue is not resolved. NOTE: Added Please also advice CAN I drive car locally after opening keep down window glass, leaving bonnet open and running cold air fan. MY CAR never crossed 90 degree on dashboard even though I drove 30 miles , but stopped for 20mi after every 10 miles and weather was not bad ( 10 degree). Thanks Kind regards Cooling Fan Control .pdf

Dear Experts , I have gone through many thread having radiator fan issue and trying to understand the root cause of issue , below are my understanding, please correct me if I am missing something. 1. Thermostat may be working fine - Tested car started & ran idle for good 5 -15 minutes with full AC on - observing the radiator return hose pipe to engine & initially it was dead cold but Inlet pipe was bit warm so thermostat was closed after few minutes return pipe became warm rather hot & radiator was light warm, which made me think that thermostat is working as expected. (please correct me ) 2. Thought radiator was blocked but seems while driving with low temperature radiator gets cooler fast as though nothing has passed from it, but in stationary car, while running idle, it was symmetrically warm so confirmed me that coolant is passing through radiator. 3. Changed Radiator thermo switch last week, so it cannot be faulty 4. Shorted 1 & 2 , 1&3 pins of Thermo switch connector and fan ran with slow/high speed mode which proved that FAN is fine (of course 2 strip fuses were blown). My understanding is Fan Control module (FCM) is also working fine since when the shorting of thermo switch was done it messaged FCM ( simulating high temp behvaiour) and FCM signalled back to fan to come in action. ( Please correct if I am missing something) 5 . Since I am not driving car but today observed that car may be getting overheating as noticed that after few minutes of idling car was abnromally shut down. Temperature gauge was struck on 90, but my diagnostic app initially was showing 70 degree of coolant temperature but later when car abruptly got off app was showing around 81 degree. It means temperature may have crossed 94 degree & ecu sensed the danger and switched off the car as preventive measure. Sorry I don't quite understand the flow of messages & corresponding actions, how ECU gets temperature info from ECT (Engine coolant temperature sensor), or thermoswitch & senses the danger and instructs FCM to signal for FAN action. I think ECU may be getting info about temperature from 2 sources thermoswitch & and ECT and then acting on it. So in my case above test number 4 shows that FAN to FCM signalling to and fro is working fine, but ECU to FCM connectivity may have some issue again I don't know about and all are assumptions. 6. Since car is behaving as expected on temperature wise so assuming ECT is working fine 7 . Only issue could be faulty ECU or ECU to FCM connectivity. 8 Sorry, I don't know if FAN have any electronics component which needs some X volts to trigger it and those component may be faulty. As not sure step 4 may have already proved it about FAN health. Hope for expert opinion and advice of this matter at least I can feed our analysis to car electrical expert so that it will make his life easy . Much aapreciated for reading long message please. Thanks, Kind Regards raky

Hi Experts , Just sharing as it may help somebody similar situation even though I have already planned, request Mechanic to change thermostat switch and fan control module, I have noticed that - on cold Start the coolant starts flowing immediately in coolant tank. ( not sure ideally it should happen or not ) as I rev coolant flow increase . - Car reaches 90 degree on dashboard after at least driving 2 miles. ( not sure it should take so much time ) or after 8-9 minutes running idle. - The car interior gets warmer after 2 minute of switching on moved on highest temperature & after 5 minutes it become little bit warm but not like earlier it used to get very hot. Cheers raky

Hello Experts , Does these test to check health of thermostat holds good please. Anyway I am planning to change my car thermostat bought it already not expensive part, may take little time for mechanic to change but otherwise fine. Have seen below info on net for thermostat issue , please advice if they make sense , as it may help all to pin point issues, please feel free to modify should u feel info is incorrect. Thermostat Tests: Test 1. Cold engine test: Open the hood and remove the radiator cap/coolant tank lid. Start the engine. Observe coolant action by looking down into the radiator. The fluid should not be moving. Verify : When an engine is cold, the thermostat should be closed, thus bypassing the radiator. ( In my case it coolant Strats flowing immediately after cold Strats , suspecting thermostat struck at open position) Test 2: Cold engine test: Start the engine. Turn on the heater. Time how long it takes the engine to warm up enough for the heater to actually produce heat in the passenger compartment. If it takes more than five minutes for the heater to produce heat, it is a sign that the thermostat is stuck open, allowing the coolant to detour through the radiator all the time. This causes it to take a good deal longer for the engine to warm up. ( Will test this, never done ) Test 3 : Warm (not hot!) engine test : Open the hood and remove the radiator cap. Start engine. Look down into the radiator and observe coolant action. The fluid should be swirling vigorously. When an engine is warm, the thermostat is in the open position. This allows the coolant to flow through the radiator causing vigorous movement. Thanks Kind Regrds raky

Dear Skoda Owners, Please find below steps for broken Fan related issues in skoda fabia mk1 which I have gained knowledge from respected & humble Skoda expert @Pete_Ex-Wino The possible issues could be in any one or more than one area - 1. Radiator , 2. Fan 3 Thermostat switch, 4 Fan control unit , 5 Wiring 5 ECT ( engine temperature sensor) 6. Coolant Tank 7 Coolant , 8 coolant pipes/hoses 9 Strip/Normal fuses. 1. Always start with basics - Remove each fuse related to radiator fan and physically check each of them, if they are fragile please just change it , would not cost you more than few pennies for sure but if u ignore defiantly cost u huge pain. ( found two stirp fuse of my car were broken even though they looked healthy visibly & always assumed that they are fine) 2. Check if Fan is healthy , remove fan switch short 1-2 and 1-3 pins for low and high speed u may refer beginning of this thread you will find the image.( my case 2 broken fuse caused issue) 3. If fan is healthy check both hose pipes /inlet an outlet from radiator if they are getting warmer or hotter 4 Check if radiator is warmer. (My car radiator is not getting warmer symetrically more investigation needed) 5 Check if there is flow of coolant in coolant tank 6 Check coolant tank is not leaking ( mine was leaking when it was getting warmer In conclusion I think my radiator is not getting warmer enough to kick the fan module to start the FAN, as of now undertaking is thermostat may be broken or radiator can also be bad. Keep u posted the progress of it , I still feel Skoda is strong car with minor sensor related issue which of course have life but we owners must understand all sensors which may be round 15-20 .. I am afraid 4 Out of 5 mechanics could have solved this issue in minutes but there is greed every where on this planet , millions lost life due to covid and humans did not learn greed never ends. Happy driving . cheers, ray

Dear Pete, Another update changed number 4 fragile fuse , ABS sensor light gone , just engine light on , I think all fuses must eb chnaged at least 2-3 years once they just cost few pennies, I will get thermostat change and update the behaviour, my courier had also reached dartford hope to get all parts by Monday. I am driving 4-5 miles with full cold air and engine bonnet open and car is running smooth does not it is heating , hope it is fine please. Much apprecaited your support and time. Stay blessed . Kind Regards raky

Dear Pete So do u think radiator may be blocked and if I use radiator cleaner and flush it few times would it make it better which may clean the gunk please?? I have driven back 5 miles would validate abt temp from my friend on both hoses again and update here . Much appreciated

Thanks Pete drove good 5 miles in city conditions though it is raining here so temp is bit low both hose are almost same warm touchable , I would say lower hose may be 10to 20% less warmer but one thing I have noticed that lower part of radiator is very cold I can sense coldness in it and only upper part is warm temp does not look like same as pipe as expected but cooler than pipe but warm. May be radiator is not working as expected possibly radiator switch area may be just cold. Any thoughts please I am typing u from car 5 miles away from home. Regards

Sure Pete , I understood , I will check both hoses , I believe 1 is up entering top of radiator very big hose , which I have checked many times were always hot when car was idle running and 2nd hose is down end of radiator, I shall drive car 1-2 miles and check and update you please same time I shall also check with high rev if coolant speed in tank also increases or not ? Thanks

Thanks Pete , Mechanic did clear all code it came back , I shall check all strip fuses again I had tested 5 normal car fuses with multimeter which were next to strip fuses in closed box ( right side 5 wires box) all looked OK , I think working electronics of car I should disconnect both terminals of battery not just one . Sorry I am confused why my radiator is not getting warm at all even though coolant hose pipe become pretty warm/hot after engine is warmed up . Any pointers please ...? Thank you so much for your support and help. Kind Regards raky

Dear Pete , Quite excited for doing diagnostics, seems it is full time job , really apprecaite your patience and support . This morning new issue possible we may have messed up some wires as we fiddling with 3 different fan control module we did not fit all tested 1 by 1 kept temporary hanging , removed and fixed control module unit , this morning engine light starting blinking abs light is on with few more light, got scanned from and noted all code, car drives fine driven around 10 miles no issue smooth , I have fitted my original fan module controller now removed ebay old one , I reckon since most fuses are top of battery plastic holder connecting/disconnecting battery may have broken some fuses checking one by one again, defiantly I remembered last time when ABS light came in i found the 4th or 5th number fuse was broken. I have checked pipe going to radiator is defiantly gets warmer or vent hotter , but not radiator itself it was full cold surprisingly I have touched the coolant switch which was also very cold but pipe connect the radiator was pretty warm , coolant is continuously flowing in coolant tank little bit weak stream( will get back on stronger stream very soon after rev, will do very soon ) all pipes were hot read ur many advices on this website and was thinking about thermostate and tested all My assessment - 1. Coolant is circulating for sure , 2. Radio pipe and engine pipe are get hotter based on car I keep running 3. coolant is flowing in coolant tank 4. Radiator is NOT getting HOT at all 5. Radiator switch is by touching also doe snot seems hot. Not sure how coolant is circulating if it is not going inside radiator. Error code which is giving clarity : 18049 Check DTC error code for AC 17604 – Lambada sensor - ( known to me disconnected time bingo waiting for new sensor) 17586- Lambada sensor ( known to me disconnected time bingo waiting for new sensor) 17524 - Lambada sensor – known to me disonected , waiting for new one 65535 - ( I think connecting /disconnecting battery may have messed ECU which may or may not be serious , but got ABS error , engine light flashing , just happened today never had issue driven 20 miles all looks good) 01596 - AC flap issue I think 00819 - ( 2 times – same error don't know why ) High Pressure Sensor (G65): Open or Short to Ground 00705- Relay for Coolant Fan; Stage 1 (J279) 00706- Relay for Coolant Fan; Stage 2 (J513) Any thoughts please. Kind Regards raky

Dear Pete, Much appreciated for your time please, Thought to share with that when car running idle for quite a while yesterday, FAN was never kicked off even with temperature reaching higher at one time CAR had abrupt shutdown as opened coolant it was very hot I guess as warm air was flowing out, Afraid to ask you do u mean Control unit is healthy or broken and need change. So u reckon could be FAN issue not FAN CONTROL unit assembly. Whenever free or possible please advice , hope this message does not disturb you on work. Many thanks Kind Regards raky

Dear @Pete_Ex-Wino Sorry to bother you , Can you please advice if u want me to find AC error code first to proceed further or if u have any plan B advice , I can probably short the wire to make sure fan runs slow & drive to local mechanic and get those code after getting scanned again. Mean time before before going to garage I am thinking to test another 2 fan control modules and see if slow fan runs. I saw the AC regas possibly I may buy can and refill it if needed not that expensive I think please correct me if I am wrong. Hope to hear you soon. Thanks Kind Regards raky

Thanks Pete All credit goes to you , I am afraid , absolutely no idea I have never used AC, but there were two error codes pretainaing to AC and one was pretainaing to radio (+ Lambada sensor error code which is disconnected & at the moment waiting for Bank1 sensor from CezcRepublic) . i remembered 5 years back I have used AC once when it was very hot around 5 pm. I had chat with my mechanic requested AC related error codes but he said he had cleared his diagnostics tool recently. I am relived as layman with limited knowledge I guess possibly thermostat or fan control module or even both may be bad , need proper advice so that I can check voltage to confirm that. I drive 30 miles to mechanic as he does nice job for me always so want to carry all necessary parts in case if there is more parts needed. At the moment I have bought Fan control module , Lambada sensor & thermostat switch( euro parts). My mechanic had tested with full AC on for a while running engine unplugged control module's bigger switch and found that there was no voltage in one pin which was possible signal for fan to start. I hope I don't need to spend money on AC regas or repair as I don't use it , and lower or higher speed fan can run independently of broken AC if it is. I have noticed today that after a while stationary high rev with full AC on , the car engine shuts down automatically after few minutes , may have reached possible 100+ degree temperature engine ecu had panic button to stop overheating. So it means I need low speed fan for sure or even higher speed. Once again much appreciated for your all help & support. Cheers raky

This Guy is doing What Pete had advised possibly may make life easy for investigator by watching video. cheers t

Thought to update you all , Car is not fully up , some issues are still in progress, my understanding is below listed which 5 mechanic could not help , I had to dig in after reading from this website and identified possibly root cause ( 2 mechanic were confident there is no issue but did not have answer, wanted to open up fuel injectors and wanted to check or run more sophisticated tests on wiring or engine componenets) Issues & found root cause 1. Black smoke - ( manifold sensor I think in other cars it is MAF or MAP sensor was broken 2. White Smoke + Wet carbon( I had added CAT cleaner with less fuel which seems were concentrated and had done its job - added more gas and driven 70mph speed all became normal) 3. Car was loosing power - Changed the Fuel filter which had very bad gunk in it again fuel cleaner may have brought some tank debris in it. Fuel filter was not changed from last many years. 4. Very negative -Short term fuel trims (-100) Broken lambda sensor , even thought it was 4 months old it was faulty replaced my old lambada broken sensor and behaviour has been changed currently car is using default fuel control values , ordered new lambada sensor hope full will change and see if the is another issue in ecu which does not like lambada sensor values ( Lesson learnt never buy any ebay new or old lambada sensors , always buy from top quality , skoda lambada sensor ( bank1) for skoda is around £290 with 2 years warranty ) 5 Fan not running - Ongoing issue @Pete_Ex-Winois Kindly trying to help me , so far changed radiator switch on my own possibly never needed but just did it. 6 Broken AC - still not looked yet ( chnaged Coolant , engine oil , and coolant expansion tank it was leaking , mechanics were testing car possibly running ver high rev, no one noticed that fan is not running car may be over heating who knows ) I am not getting confident to drive the car yet because of no fan. Mean time 2 issue had happened while removing fuel filter 1 mechanic accidently broken the fuel filter holder which was rubber part and fixed component of tank so non replaceable ,please be careful please opening fuel filter from old cars , 2nd issue other mechanic broken fan control module connector again possible jammed , needed to spend good time to understand mechanism to get it sorted ,spoken to few local car electricians was not getting early appointment, I have to step in changed to new connector. Lesson learned old cars please always keep tab on many components/sensors which have X years of life they will never run for 2-3 decades or thousands of miles they will break at some point. If u love ur car and want to run for longer please keep identifying sensors and buy only original from Skoda. Happy driving. Cheers raky

Dear Pete, You r a gem , Thanks you, deserved highest award for helping all indirectly saving planet ( encouraging no junks of electronics), here you go 3strip was broken that why was getting odd resistance , eagles & sharp eye caught it very quickly . I had spare one same 40 amp so replaced it saw another weak strip open one side and just made sure that it was connected. Tested full speed fan worked fine. Kept AC full engine temperature to 90 degree but no fan came in shall I drive a while and see if fan come when temp is 98 degree , whats next please advice ? Kind Regards raky

Hello Pete, At the moment I have three fan control module 1 mine and 2 bought on ebay ( bought thought they can temporary drive car til new parts arrives ), I shall try one by one all three shorting pin 1 and pin 3 of radiator switch and see if there is any change on fan behaviour on clicking sound of module or high speed run , of course all already tested but fan did not started with AC on , defiantly AC is broken . Keep u posted. Cheers raky

Thanks Pete, There are very cheap around £3 so will change all after disconnecting battery. The value has been mentioned on each fuse hope to read and chnage accordingly , The coolant ( pink from halford) and expansion tank has been changed recently , all looks fine, no leaks. Will keep u posted . Cheers

Sorry Pete , I have noticed that during cold start of car the coolant pump start circulating coolant I can see the coolant falling in coolant tank, is it normal behaviour as I understand until car temperature reaches around 98degree , thermostat would not open and there would be no circulation of coolant, do u think my thermostat me faulty at open position. Any thought please . cheers

Thanks Pete number 3 from right to left or left to right please ? Online status of fedex shows that it is in Germany at present hope to reach by Monday , Possibly I shall disconnect battery and remove one by one all fuses and physically see if all connected or cracks alternatively will change all not expensive. I shall keep u posted , do u still reckon that fan control module may be faulty... I can check voltage on each pins if needed please any thoughts. I shall check temperature of car with torque pro oBD2 app after keeping it idling for few minutes. cheers

Sorry Pete do I need to disconnect the battery before testing please?? cheers

Really apprecaite Pete for ur time , I have kept mutilmeter on 200 ohms and measured one end of strip with another end ( before screws) saw some had 2.3 ohms range which was weird they looked intact not broken but some had value 1 or -1 but some had 2.3 ohms range , If I connect both screws than values are different because left side are serially connected and so are right side all screws. Please find attached photos last time it was when my abs was not working mehcnic found one fuse was broken which was visibly very clearly. Please find photos for ur info . Any thoughts please Cheers raky

Oh ok Thanks Pete, let me test strip fuses on top battery with multimeter visibly all looked fine , again I have put the ignition on and short-circuited still one click but no fan action . I saw there was wire which was connecting to FAN near the radiator switch does that could be any issue please ?, I shall update you soon . cheers

Much apprecaited Pete , u r saviour as always, I was delighted when it worked for just combination , but will do check as adviced again. Pete tested both , low speed works withOUT ANY key but unfortunately High speed DOES NOT work after ignition on , BUT One thing I have notice that there was clicks on FAN module when I was wiggling th connected wire for high speed any idea wht does it implies please, is it sure the relay switch was trying to do its job but could not or anything else. Hope for ur guidance please . " To test full speed you first need to switch on the ignition, then connect the brown (1) to the brown/green (pin 3). " Note : Wire was connected first than ignition was kept on does it matter please , do u want me to repeat the test again ? Thanks Kind Regards raky Thanks Kind Regards raky