raky

Appreciate Alasdair for your advice , I think we "buy anycar" does not buy high mileage cars ,so far mine car had 1 sill rusted which has been replaced with new. Let see how it goes Thanks regards raky

Hi team, I was trying to sell My lovely Fabia 07 plate with very low price were unsold, it has 11 months MOT still have healthy engine , had got changed all 4 discs/pads and driver side new Sill , suspension joints , done 142k drives perfect , saw the previous owner history and it seems they had changed timing belt around 80k. All 4 tyres were changed 2-3 years back possibly would have done 8-10k miles still have good tyre thread. Got checked Catalytic was very healthy , got fitted new steering rack 2 years back . I get some time engine light with error code ( with P0106 )which disappears automatically does not effect driving, looked Skoda experts in briskskoda their views and it may need throttle body cleaning or MAP sensor cleaning , as I dont want to spend more energy on it , bought another car daily for local use. Car drives perfect on motroway. Any suggestion what would be ideal price, breaking is not possible for me and any body needs can ping me offer. Thanks regrds raky

Dear Pete @Breezy_Pete Appreciate your support always , another year MOT passed which would have not been possible with your support and advice , this MOT there was zero cost of any repair. Your invaluable advice always saved me from throwing away working sensors and gave me confidence not to listen the garages and error code which generally some of OBD sensors shows. I fully agree sensor either works or does not work, their is NO intermittent stage of any sensor . Car had small exhaust leak which justifies that un metered oxygen is entering into exhaust near flexi and before post cat o2 sensor hence o2 responded based on extra oxygen which may have been disturbing the fuel:oxygen ratio hence some time engine light. Great work Pete , please keep helping and saving planet. Kind Regards raky

Thanks for sharing information , Same issue in my car as well , even I was suspecting it wheel sensor or throttlebody since it happens sometime on motorway when gas paddle is suddenly pressed during lane change .. it may be an issue with wheel sensor since my wheel bearing was changed couple of year back at first attempt mechanic fitted wheel bearing wrongly traction control light was active on dashboard light , he may have messed it . Will try getting changed both front wheel sensor and may need to look out throttle body as well , As usual before MOT restart bothering great soul @Breezy_Pete for help and guidance. cheers raky.

Edited *** supplying tested sensor which otherwise is very expensive part and possibly would have costed me fortune if I have would have bought new one from VW as Cheenes Chipo does not work .

Hi Experts , As usual some surprise always near MOT , but I am not giving up since I strongly feel car engine seems solid no point binning it and also why to worry ,fear when one have continued support of Skoda expert Pete @Breezy_Pete , Really appreciate Pete @Breezy_Pete for his continuous support and advising correct parts and even supplying tested sensor which was very expensive and possibly would costed me fortune. All error codes gone once pre cat oxygen sensor replaced and throttle body cleaned (without removing) , lot of gunk found in throttle body, of course steering rack also replaced with new one as well as it was leaking and all 4 new tyres with service. I have also replaced MAP sensor with old MAP sensor (cleaned with isopropyl 99% alchol) removed from my car which was earlier thought to be broken but it was NOT , SKODA car does not like cheap Chinese sensors as ECU expects original parts I think. I have tried to understand the Fuel trims which is very confusing still as values are always different so could not interpret. Planning to change the ECT sensor as almost 2 years back I have changed so it is bit tricky but not difficult coolant flush after 2 years may be also be good for engine. Thanks for reading , hope it helps somebody facing similar issue. Finally happy ending MOT passed error gone. Another year to run . Regrds raky Fuel Trim.pdf

Hi , Thanks for sharing info please, Sorry for bothering you , May I know please ,do u think P1142 is throttle body please ?? I don't have power loss but definitely get at least once EPC + Engine light (Have small leak on Steering rack as well ) in 30 miles driving only on high speed of 70miles roads possibly during change of lane. Suspect throttle body or wheel sensor may be causing issue. I am seeing 3 more codes P1176 P1196. and P1178 but very confident O2 bank1 MAY not be Faulty ... Suspecting vacuums leak or o2 sensor bank2 may be issue , few months back made mechanic to cut open and look for catalytic converter and it was very healthy and even made him clear with air pressure as well. At the moment engine light has came up permanent , I had coolant leak which is not any more after adding leak stop chemical in coolant. My throttle body is cleaned even cleaned few months by spraying EGR cleaner without opening. 17550, P1142. Mass Air Flow Sensors (G70) faulty , Intake Air System faulty/leaking (false Air) , Throttle Pedal faulty ,Throttle Body dirty/faulty Cheers raky

Hi Experts here is update on above very old issue which made to bin the car few times but never gave up, credit goes to very kind hearted Rock star of this group @Breezy_Pete By chance I was travelling to meet friends and Pete was not far where I was visiting , Pete kindly agreed to offer me time and agreed to look my car on sunny weekend , in 3 minutes he found 3 issues in car and to my surprise he found the root cause of all engine loss / EPC light etc which no body was able to identify or they never had expertise. The Pete went logically had data sheet of my car and looked that my fuel-filter which was bought from euro parts ( 2-3 filter changed since 2-3 years) had wrong fuel pressure, since same model had possibly few variants but the fuel filter has same number of inlets/outlets but different pressure regulator values, 3bar or 4 Bar , Pete had list in hand looked everything and when saw the fuel filter he said this could be major issue with my car since it needed 3 BAR as per specification but current fuel filter was 4BAR .. so Pete explained that car computer is getting out of abnormal values because of high pressure fuel and trying to add more oxygen and probably messing up oxygen fuel ratio when it goes high speed .. Thanks @Breezy_Petefor saving planet and stopping my good car going to landfill and pollute the planet , today I have changed the fuel filter and drove the car at speed of 70miles/hour first time without any issue I drove good 20-30 miles. I checked Short Term /long term Fuel trims using dignositics and then were very much under 10% approx 7% I think these values were very dice and changing from -20 to +20 earlier with different rpms . Once again fuel filter pressure is very important for car computer please do check the car manual and never trust any OEM suppliers. Thanks for reading , hope it helps Skodians. Regards raky

Thanks , I think that could be another point , i have noticed MAP sensor connector can move a bit freely even after it is connected , not sure at high speed when car is shaking may be some loose connection for fraction of sec and all mess happens , I could see connector does not looks healthy as mechanic had hard time removing last time when I have changed it. The MAP Sensor looked very clean. I will address this issue before long drive. cheers raky

Thanks All experts I think I found issue , I think culprit so far seems airbox thermostat as mentioned be @Breezy_Pete as per below link , since I have tested airbox thermostat and it was not fully closing after heating with hair dryer which may have correlation as when car used to get warm on motorway EPC+Engine light used to come with power loss and it was consistent even after disconnecting lambada sensor. I had put extra small steel thin strip to push spring so that it closes flap which still does not close but it much better than before , planning to seal with heat resistant tape as part is not available in UK and removing part from spring is difficult as per experience shared by experts. Request all skoda owners having high milage cars to test and airbox thermostat it is very easy to open and test it, especially when cars computer logs error which is no way directly relevant . Will keep you posted . So far driven 70 miles on. motorway at the 70 speed and all was smooth car had no issue. To be extra cautious on my request my mechanic cut the exhaust pipe and shown me that catalytic converter was in very good condition he pumped lot of high pressure air some carbon came out from exhaust which was not as much as thought considering the age of car. He cleaned EGR valve as well again it was not bad , put new spark plugs they were very good as well . I generally use Cat cleaner liquid/ other carbon cleaner products at least 1-2 time in year which may be helping keeping engine clean. Thanks all for support. Hope it helps others. Cheers raky

Much appreciated @sepulchrave thanks for your response, it is great idea , isolated one by one to pin point the root cause of issue , so u mean just disconnect connector from EGR valve it and drive the car as normal, I understand running EGR valve disconnected would not have any impact on driving except engine light which is anyway already ON because of o2 sensor temp fuse removal. Please advice. cheers raky

Hi Experts Thought to update you on above , I have disconnected o2 sensor fuse and observed that there was still same behaviour of EPC+Engine light coming intermittently like before when I drove on motorway for 3-4 miles , rpm was moving up and down automatically without giving any accelerator. Similar behaviour still continuing when applying brake makes rpm goes haywire i.e up or down never comes to normal for a while later after 3-4 minutes all come back normal when car is switched off and switched on ( EPC light vanishes) Also when car is in motion even in neutral gear the some time rpm stay more than 900 rather than 600 which is normal. I have got checked fuel pump and it was very clean no gunk at all on it is filter.. Hence this confirms that o2 sensor is not a faulty or causing this issue for sure, checked the servo pipe and it seems looks healthy so that is also ruled out, all valves in the servo pipe seems fine checked by blowing air into it. I have also performed some brake booster checked by switching on and off car pressing multiple times brake peddle and it seems it is also no issue. Unfortunately computer system throws only errors complaining about o2 sensor missing it does not log any other extra breath/epc errors. Suspect either of them may be issue - i.e throttle body , gas paddle sensor , fuel injectors , PCV or EGR valve... Hoping to get all these cleaned to see if there is any issue. I am also thinking to just change the PCV valve and see if issue is resolved possible cheapest option. My mechanic is very kind and had agreed to do whatever I say him So no issue will pay him hourly. Please advice if anybody have any suggestion also may be thinking to temporary ask mechanic to swap with some other parts one by one to pin point the root cause. Please advice part number struggled to identify right part number from link as advised by Pete. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2007-453/6/612-612010/#1 My car Fabia Mk1, 07 plate , BBZ engine 16v 1.4,100HP. (1390 cc) 1. PCV valve 2. Throttle Body 3. Gas paddle Sensor 4. Brake booster KIT 5. EGR valve Otherwise car is very healthy with its age engine is very strong ... does not make sense to just bin it even if plan to change I may make it fit so that it uses its full life rather than polluting planet. Thanks for reading please. Kind Regards raky

Thanks Pete for sorting out my 2nd motor as well. Really appreciate quick help please, Please keep saving planet. Kind Regards raky

Dear @Breezy_Pete, My 2nd driver side window motor on its way to you, this was bought new from skoda and worked well for 5-6 years , it had also intermittent issue like old one which is working perfectly fine now after ur magic. I just want to keep this spare until I change car. Request for your help please. Thanks Kind Regards raky

Dear Pete , Thank you so much for sorting out my old driver side motor it is back to normal , it is great efforts for saving planet does not make sense to spend fortune to buy new motor for 10+ old car. I really apprecaite your quick response as well, I did not understand how 2nd class Royal Mail works but round trip took 4 days. Once again thank you so much. Kind Regards raky.

this was seal missing as mentioned in last message... No issue of compatibility both fitted and worked fine "3b1837016bc but I think my old part was 3B2837016r s"

fyi Lee @TMB this is how they sell on ebay ... trade secret even my know mechanic was asking me how did i mange to refit again the new actuator he did not share me secret , when I tried to pull the cable it was not reaching so I did research and found that 2-3 mm is short which self cut rubber seal had filled the gap and all worked fine, even I was also about to break the clip by forcibly trying to fit it. cheers

Found the root cause of this issue , what happen when we remove actuator which has 2-3mm rubber gasket , this gasket never comes with original actuator sold on ebay so when we fit the new part without 2-3 mm gasket the cable length reduces hence as novice we push hard the cable to fit in the holder which breaks holder.. I had success when I ordered 3mm rubber part and made a gasket out fit on actuator cable nicely fitted and all everything was smooth... fyi @Breezy_Pete Adhesive Backed Neoprene Rubber Sheet / Squares & Strips in all sizes Thickness: 3mm Size: 10 x 10cm £2.45 Sold by: hgl-supplies Hop hit helps somebody. cheers

Hi Experts, Any advice please for my skoda fabia or time to change the car and do more harm to planet even though plenty of life is still left. The core issue is after driving say 20-40 minutes on motorway at 50+ speed, I get ESP + Engine light both together with below two behaviours at different times. I have to switch off engine for 4-5 minutes before esp light to go (possibly something to do with cooling), but engine light stays good few days and disappears. Car goes back to normal and drivable. Behaviours: 1. Car looses power/stalled with no accelerating while driving , goes normal after 4-5 min of staying calm in off position. 2. Car does not looses power everything is smooth and normal but ESP + Engine light comes during driving 3. Tested the car after disconnecting the O2 sensor connection and car never stalled but ECU and engine light do came after driving 20 to 40 min similar to above behaviour. After all these episodes got checked from mechanic and it was always error code mostly related to bad Lambada sensor, please note that in last couple of years 3-4 Lambada/O2 sensors were changed & current o2 sensor is very high-quality so I presume some voltage surge is causing this issue. Also last year I have changed temperature sensor, radiator sensor, map sensor, fuel filter , air filter and checked thermostat which was very health and fitted same again. Apart from above I have noticed few things which are below 1. Some time I get “traction control light” during U turns 2. Some time I see engine rpm stays 1200 -1300 even though the car is neutral during downhill and speed is around 20-30 miles which is very unusual I need to put in gear and then sometimes it come to idle speed i.e 600-700rpm 3. I have also noticed small jerk (if car is at low speed) when the radiator fan starts which is very unusual , generally fan never starts as car never gets heated because of locals drive and even cat cleaner/ injector cleaner additives were added last years which had removed lot of carbon from car. I drive locally not many miles around 15 to 25 miles a day . I have read the culprits could be accelerator pedal , fuel injector, fuel pump or throttle body. I think if it is throttle body then why it doesn't happen at slow speed , not sure I may be wrong. I also think culprit could be accelerator pedal sensor which may be possible but if it is that I believe in 5th gear the engine rev may be around 3k and but at city condition rev rev may be 2.5k. I am not sure for fuel injectors as I would expect more issues during starting or city drive condition where engine may expect more fuel . I am not sure if ECU itself is faulty please. Lastly I had got checked fuel pump just visually for any gunk but it seemed was very clean was not rusty or bad . I have shown car to auto electricals but experts have no time to spend they are dam busy. We have 1-2 expert only in our city. I strongly think something to do with temperature or some voltage fluctuation. Any thought would be highly appreciated. Regards

I am also facing similar issue the seller sent me actuator 3b1837016bc but I think my old part was 3B2837016r same as okmate's. Everything seems work fine with wrong part as expected but only Bowden cable length is shorter by possibly 1-2 cm not sure why, in okmate case possibly applying to much force may have broken the cable holder because of wrong part.My door was jammed because of excess pull on actuator unlock handle. Lesson learned ebay part compatibility checker cannot be trusted. cheers raky

Thanks Pete , I think I have done further investigation on motor 8 pin and 6 pin connectors because I had brand new switch from SKODA bought 6 years back when I had issue and observed that motor connector pins voltage does not change even when it is working or not or switch is up or down, so I presume it is not switch issue. I have jotted the voltage after pressing switch up/down both and found that only 1 pin in both connectors value changes from 0.00 volt to 0.01 volt which may be shown in multimeter but it may be LIN or other types signal which needs oscilscope or other specialise tool to notice the wave of voltage. Please find image , I think culprit seems motor unless you have other views. I have also noticed that when connected motor body have 0.01 volts which was puzzling if there is ground issue or still short circuit. I would seek ur help in this matter and possibly after one more check of bushes short-circuit. Cheers raky

Thanks Pete , In that case soon I would bother you for my old motor please. cheers

Hi Guys, The intermittent issue causing window motor was newly bought from skoda around 6 years back , anyway I searched old motor which was dead and tested Armature With Commutator with voltmeter and found that two slots were not having same resistance suspected of short circuit, cleaned used sharp blade later/sand paper the resistance was increase but were still different .2 ohms for just 2 slots rest all were matching, Also noticed that there was lot of carbon/gunk on bushes which may caused contact issue , I have used the youtube link - "Broken Electric Motor? HOW TO Test If A Motor Armature With Commutator Is Damaged #ElectricMotor" I have also applied some copper grease resealed everything. I shall test and see if it works. The motor is SK240DDRS. I had also notice two wires small cut on plastic cover of wires near door panel, remembered mechanic was poking some sharp object in wires for testing during last motor issue . The wires from inside looked intact & fine to me as it did not seem broken just taped them back. Whenever find time will test this newly cleaned motor and see if it works better or still dead. Found this link which was sharing circuit digram http://ltb0iy5mjp.talkiforum.com/20151226/2007-skoda-fabia-ii-front-electric-windows-no-5129933/ Just want some neat circuit digram to test externally with direct voltage through battery just to see if it works at all. Please do share if u have info/circuit digram/steps abt it. Keep u posted . Cheers

Hi Guys though to update as I have never got this info straightforward may help somebody , my window switch (Fabia mk1 2007) have intermittent issue and when it is NOT working just checked the voltage and it seems 3 pins at (one side- as shown in attach image ) out of 6 pins have voltage , One pin had voltage of 11.42 volts and other 2 pins had 11.20approx . Rest 3 pins on other side had zero voltage so I assume car computer is sending correct voltage and now will see the Window motor voltage and update you soon once I find time please. If motor have issue I may have to open and test the bushes and clean for garbage inside groves or even replace new bushes if I get it( not sure ) . Please note that car key was switched on position but car was not started. I have removed the inner connector from brown holder just pushing slider& inner black connector came out easily and one can clearly see/test the pins -( 3 + 3 pins ) with voltmeter. Hope it helps somebody . Keep you posted please. Any comments on it is welcome - Skoda is strong car please never bin it for silly issues. Going great after 110k+ miles Cheers

Dear Pete , Much appreciated, you had already spend lot of time & taught great diagnostic approach & helped me ,Thanks you so much for all, I can imagine that u have also limit and even same here, cannot do any more beyond my control, I had already given up spoken to few electricals experts for next week appointments , I think after changing advised part, car will go to electricians & hopefully they would be able to look further. You have given me many good pointers and Thank you so much for that as well. I shall update complete info so that it can help others generally people don't update solution once their car issues are resolved. Stay blessed and please keep sharing ur knowledge and helping Skoda owners and also saving planet. U deserved a champagne bottle and thank you card. Thanks Kind Regards raky