raky

Dear Pete So do u think radiator may be blocked and if I use radiator cleaner and flush it few times would it make it better which may clean the gunk please?? I have driven back 5 miles would validate abt temp from my friend on both hoses again and update here . Much appreciated

Thanks Pete drove good 5 miles in city conditions though it is raining here so temp is bit low both hose are almost same warm touchable , I would say lower hose may be 10to 20% less warmer but one thing I have noticed that lower part of radiator is very cold I can sense coldness in it and only upper part is warm temp does not look like same as pipe as expected but cooler than pipe but warm. May be radiator is not working as expected possibly radiator switch area may be just cold. Any thoughts please I am typing u from car 5 miles away from home. Regards

Sure Pete , I understood , I will check both hoses , I believe 1 is up entering top of radiator very big hose , which I have checked many times were always hot when car was idle running and 2nd hose is down end of radiator, I shall drive car 1-2 miles and check and update you please same time I shall also check with high rev if coolant speed in tank also increases or not ? Thanks

Thanks Pete , Mechanic did clear all code it came back , I shall check all strip fuses again I had tested 5 normal car fuses with multimeter which were next to strip fuses in closed box ( right side 5 wires box) all looked OK , I think working electronics of car I should disconnect both terminals of battery not just one . Sorry I am confused why my radiator is not getting warm at all even though coolant hose pipe become pretty warm/hot after engine is warmed up . Any pointers please ...? Thank you so much for your support and help. Kind Regards raky

Dear Pete , Quite excited for doing diagnostics, seems it is full time job , really apprecaite your patience and support . This morning new issue possible we may have messed up some wires as we fiddling with 3 different fan control module we did not fit all tested 1 by 1 kept temporary hanging , removed and fixed control module unit , this morning engine light starting blinking abs light is on with few more light, got scanned from and noted all code, car drives fine driven around 10 miles no issue smooth , I have fitted my original fan module controller now removed ebay old one , I reckon since most fuses are top of battery plastic holder connecting/disconnecting battery may have broken some fuses checking one by one again, defiantly I remembered last time when ABS light came in i found the 4th or 5th number fuse was broken. I have checked pipe going to radiator is defiantly gets warmer or vent hotter , but not radiator itself it was full cold surprisingly I have touched the coolant switch which was also very cold but pipe connect the radiator was pretty warm , coolant is continuously flowing in coolant tank little bit weak stream( will get back on stronger stream very soon after rev, will do very soon ) all pipes were hot read ur many advices on this website and was thinking about thermostate and tested all My assessment - 1. Coolant is circulating for sure , 2. Radio pipe and engine pipe are get hotter based on car I keep running 3. coolant is flowing in coolant tank 4. Radiator is NOT getting HOT at all 5. Radiator switch is by touching also doe snot seems hot. Not sure how coolant is circulating if it is not going inside radiator. Error code which is giving clarity : 18049 Check DTC error code for AC 17604 – Lambada sensor - ( known to me disconnected time bingo waiting for new sensor) 17586- Lambada sensor ( known to me disconnected time bingo waiting for new sensor) 17524 - Lambada sensor – known to me disonected , waiting for new one 65535 - ( I think connecting /disconnecting battery may have messed ECU which may or may not be serious , but got ABS error , engine light flashing , just happened today never had issue driven 20 miles all looks good) 01596 - AC flap issue I think 00819 - ( 2 times – same error don't know why ) High Pressure Sensor (G65): Open or Short to Ground 00705- Relay for Coolant Fan; Stage 1 (J279) 00706- Relay for Coolant Fan; Stage 2 (J513) Any thoughts please. Kind Regards raky

Dear Pete, Much appreciated for your time please, Thought to share with that when car running idle for quite a while yesterday, FAN was never kicked off even with temperature reaching higher at one time CAR had abrupt shutdown as opened coolant it was very hot I guess as warm air was flowing out, Afraid to ask you do u mean Control unit is healthy or broken and need change. So u reckon could be FAN issue not FAN CONTROL unit assembly. Whenever free or possible please advice , hope this message does not disturb you on work. Many thanks Kind Regards raky

Dear @Pete_Ex-Wino Sorry to bother you , Can you please advice if u want me to find AC error code first to proceed further or if u have any plan B advice , I can probably short the wire to make sure fan runs slow & drive to local mechanic and get those code after getting scanned again. Mean time before before going to garage I am thinking to test another 2 fan control modules and see if slow fan runs. I saw the AC regas possibly I may buy can and refill it if needed not that expensive I think please correct me if I am wrong. Hope to hear you soon. Thanks Kind Regards raky

Thanks Pete All credit goes to you , I am afraid , absolutely no idea I have never used AC, but there were two error codes pretainaing to AC and one was pretainaing to radio (+ Lambada sensor error code which is disconnected & at the moment waiting for Bank1 sensor from CezcRepublic) . i remembered 5 years back I have used AC once when it was very hot around 5 pm. I had chat with my mechanic requested AC related error codes but he said he had cleared his diagnostics tool recently. I am relived as layman with limited knowledge I guess possibly thermostat or fan control module or even both may be bad , need proper advice so that I can check voltage to confirm that. I drive 30 miles to mechanic as he does nice job for me always so want to carry all necessary parts in case if there is more parts needed. At the moment I have bought Fan control module , Lambada sensor & thermostat switch( euro parts). My mechanic had tested with full AC on for a while running engine unplugged control module's bigger switch and found that there was no voltage in one pin which was possible signal for fan to start. I hope I don't need to spend money on AC regas or repair as I don't use it , and lower or higher speed fan can run independently of broken AC if it is. I have noticed today that after a while stationary high rev with full AC on , the car engine shuts down automatically after few minutes , may have reached possible 100+ degree temperature engine ecu had panic button to stop overheating. So it means I need low speed fan for sure or even higher speed. Once again much appreciated for your all help & support. Cheers raky

This Guy is doing What Pete had advised possibly may make life easy for investigator by watching video. cheers t

Thought to update you all , Car is not fully up , some issues are still in progress, my understanding is below listed which 5 mechanic could not help , I had to dig in after reading from this website and identified possibly root cause ( 2 mechanic were confident there is no issue but did not have answer, wanted to open up fuel injectors and wanted to check or run more sophisticated tests on wiring or engine componenets) Issues & found root cause 1. Black smoke - ( manifold sensor I think in other cars it is MAF or MAP sensor was broken 2. White Smoke + Wet carbon( I had added CAT cleaner with less fuel which seems were concentrated and had done its job - added more gas and driven 70mph speed all became normal) 3. Car was loosing power - Changed the Fuel filter which had very bad gunk in it again fuel cleaner may have brought some tank debris in it. Fuel filter was not changed from last many years. 4. Very negative -Short term fuel trims (-100) Broken lambda sensor , even thought it was 4 months old it was faulty replaced my old lambada broken sensor and behaviour has been changed currently car is using default fuel control values , ordered new lambada sensor hope full will change and see if the is another issue in ecu which does not like lambada sensor values ( Lesson learnt never buy any ebay new or old lambada sensors , always buy from top quality , skoda lambada sensor ( bank1) for skoda is around £290 with 2 years warranty ) 5 Fan not running - Ongoing issue @Pete_Ex-Winois Kindly trying to help me , so far changed radiator switch on my own possibly never needed but just did it. 6 Broken AC - still not looked yet ( chnaged Coolant , engine oil , and coolant expansion tank it was leaking , mechanics were testing car possibly running ver high rev, no one noticed that fan is not running car may be over heating who knows ) I am not getting confident to drive the car yet because of no fan. Mean time 2 issue had happened while removing fuel filter 1 mechanic accidently broken the fuel filter holder which was rubber part and fixed component of tank so non replaceable ,please be careful please opening fuel filter from old cars , 2nd issue other mechanic broken fan control module connector again possible jammed , needed to spend good time to understand mechanism to get it sorted ,spoken to few local car electricians was not getting early appointment, I have to step in changed to new connector. Lesson learned old cars please always keep tab on many components/sensors which have X years of life they will never run for 2-3 decades or thousands of miles they will break at some point. If u love ur car and want to run for longer please keep identifying sensors and buy only original from Skoda. Happy driving. Cheers raky

Dear Pete, You r a gem , Thanks you, deserved highest award for helping all indirectly saving planet ( encouraging no junks of electronics), here you go 3strip was broken that why was getting odd resistance , eagles & sharp eye caught it very quickly . I had spare one same 40 amp so replaced it saw another weak strip open one side and just made sure that it was connected. Tested full speed fan worked fine. Kept AC full engine temperature to 90 degree but no fan came in shall I drive a while and see if fan come when temp is 98 degree , whats next please advice ? Kind Regards raky

Hello Pete, At the moment I have three fan control module 1 mine and 2 bought on ebay ( bought thought they can temporary drive car til new parts arrives ), I shall try one by one all three shorting pin 1 and pin 3 of radiator switch and see if there is any change on fan behaviour on clicking sound of module or high speed run , of course all already tested but fan did not started with AC on , defiantly AC is broken . Keep u posted. Cheers raky

Thanks Pete, There are very cheap around £3 so will change all after disconnecting battery. The value has been mentioned on each fuse hope to read and chnage accordingly , The coolant ( pink from halford) and expansion tank has been changed recently , all looks fine, no leaks. Will keep u posted . Cheers

Sorry Pete , I have noticed that during cold start of car the coolant pump start circulating coolant I can see the coolant falling in coolant tank, is it normal behaviour as I understand until car temperature reaches around 98degree , thermostat would not open and there would be no circulation of coolant, do u think my thermostat me faulty at open position. Any thought please . cheers

Thanks Pete number 3 from right to left or left to right please ? Online status of fedex shows that it is in Germany at present hope to reach by Monday , Possibly I shall disconnect battery and remove one by one all fuses and physically see if all connected or cracks alternatively will change all not expensive. I shall keep u posted , do u still reckon that fan control module may be faulty... I can check voltage on each pins if needed please any thoughts. I shall check temperature of car with torque pro oBD2 app after keeping it idling for few minutes. cheers

Sorry Pete do I need to disconnect the battery before testing please?? cheers

Really apprecaite Pete for ur time , I have kept mutilmeter on 200 ohms and measured one end of strip with another end ( before screws) saw some had 2.3 ohms range which was weird they looked intact not broken but some had value 1 or -1 but some had 2.3 ohms range , If I connect both screws than values are different because left side are serially connected and so are right side all screws. Please find attached photos last time it was when my abs was not working mehcnic found one fuse was broken which was visibly very clearly. Please find photos for ur info . Any thoughts please Cheers raky

Oh ok Thanks Pete, let me test strip fuses on top battery with multimeter visibly all looked fine , again I have put the ignition on and short-circuited still one click but no fan action . I saw there was wire which was connecting to FAN near the radiator switch does that could be any issue please ?, I shall update you soon . cheers

Much apprecaited Pete , u r saviour as always, I was delighted when it worked for just combination , but will do check as adviced again. Pete tested both , low speed works withOUT ANY key but unfortunately High speed DOES NOT work after ignition on , BUT One thing I have notice that there was clicks on FAN module when I was wiggling th connected wire for high speed any idea wht does it implies please, is it sure the relay switch was trying to do its job but could not or anything else. Hope for ur guidance please . " To test full speed you first need to switch on the ignition, then connect the brown (1) to the brown/green (pin 3). " Note : Wire was connected first than ignition was kept on does it matter please , do u want me to repeat the test again ? Thanks Kind Regards raky Thanks Kind Regards raky

Sorry Pete this is not from my module , these are from net , just wanted to show pins. Thanks Regards raky

Hi Experts, Can somebody suggest fault finding approach as FAN is not running mechanic told me that fan module is faulty , I have ordered new one from Czech Republic meantime bought used from ebay and got fitted no change. I have checked AC is also not working as well , no cold air. ( never used AC, never had gas filled ). I have connected 2 wires of radiator switch and fan started so it means fan is healthy. In my skoda fabia mk1 I have only 1 fan so it seems AC is broken which is causing FAN not to run or FAN is stoping AC not to work. Any thoughts how to fix Fan, temperature in gauge is not going beyond 90 degree to me it seems as expected as I don't drive car more than few miles , when I drove car on motorway for just 30 miles at speed of 40m/h I was driving 10 miles and then taking break of 20 minutes , but I have seen coolant boiling when I drove few miles speed of @70 ph and even found that coolant tank was leaking, which has been replaced /flushed old coolant & added new coolant as well. So I understand the fan itself is fine but does not get trigger to start. I have seen some AC related error codes on mechanic diagnostics but did not noted them. I had disconnected the ECT connection as well (as advised by experts in the group ) when car was running no effect on FAN. To me all fuses on top of battery looks fine. Any thoughts please how to test those FAN control module in car or outside car I have spare battery which probably can provide 12v at least and have multimeter as well . Bigger connector have 4 pins, not sure where we should check mother or father pins of fan module . As I understand FAN could be broken because of listed reason 1. faulty ECT 2. Faulty Fan switch 3. Fault Fan Control module 4. faulty Thermostat. 5 Broken FAN 6 faulty writing 7 Fuse issue Out of these few items have been tested and working fine - Fan is not broken, fuse seems fine, fan switch was not broken but still changed it, fan control module was suspect for temporary but bought used one from eBay and changed it ( no effect) ordered new will change. In case after changing fan control module if nothing works then wht any idea please ? Also before blaming ebay seller I want to test the module , any steps would be highly appreciated. Much appreciated ur Time to read . Thanks Kind Regards raky

Hi Guys , After few minutes of wiggling had a success using just a smaller screw driver , had latch on both the pins of connectors , the pins and connectors looks as attached , the latching mechanism also can be seen in the inside of connector (1J0906444). https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1j0906234-flat-contact-housing-4-pin-10300.html Fan module bought from ebay was useless , ordered new part hope it reaches soon original part is £200+ very expensive did not understand why it so expensive just few coils inside. I think it is doable as diy , again cannot blame mechanic as it jammed badly. bigger pins have hole where perturbed part of connector sits inside it which needs to be lifted and moved away. Smaller had also similar lock but not inside any hole. The pink cap comes easily did not had any latch or lock on it. Hope it helps somebody. Cheers

Thanks @PD75, I have bought this from ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353805667719 and did some experiment with old lying ( 3-4 junk sensors at home from past few years all ch****e junk and even recently bought junk used sensor from ebay) , I had success removing few wires in 1 sensor using the above tool but could not remove any wire for 2nd sensor this was and experiment to understand locking mechanism I think right and storn tools are needed, ur video gave me some confidence as guy is confirming that vw cars connectors can be removed with these tools. Even though I think I had released the lock but connector wouldn't come out inspite of applying lot of force. I am looking info specific to radiator fan relay connector and hopefully will give a try if it works . I have order brand new original connector from skoda-parts Not many car electricians available to do these kind of job , I have 4 wires and my wires are very thick and strong possible good knowledge of locking mechanism& proper tool would be need for safe connector change, will try to buy recommended tools let see. Cheers

Hi Experts , Any images or specific steps to de pin relay switch connector please. I understand wire small strips & their locking mechanism and will get necessary tools as well. Generic videos to different connector are available on u tube but could not find specific to this connector. Thanks Regards raky

Hi Experts , My humble mechanic in garage had changed my fuel filter which was quit messy as fuel filter was never changed from last 20-25k miles , it was messy may be effect of fuel cleaner additives as it may have dissolved some impurities in fuel tank which were blocked by fuel filter , Mechanic had also change engine oil ( I suspected some petrol smell in oil which was false alarm so changed oil today since diagnostic expert will rev the engine for testing , I was concerened that it may spoil engine) Planning to change engine oil again with new oil filter once all issue of running rich is solved) I can drive car with cold engine for few miles ( of course with rich exhaust- after disconnecting battery to reset the engine light) engine light comes up just after 1 mile once temp reaches 90 degree car starts switching off and losing power but with high gas it runs fine. Today More problem added in my list - mechanic told me while remove fuel filter it seems he had broken the plastic housing which seems was fragile , it seems to put new plastic housing we need to remove tank, this mechanic was always very nice & very experienced as I had taken his service for many years and never had issue with him , it is my bad luck. Not user if any fix can be done with extra metal sheet to stitch on both sides for firmness . At the moment he had few plastic cable locks which were quite firm but it may not be permanent solution. Any idea please how shall I go about it to sort out permanently, probably will visit body works and see if they can do anything for it. I think housing looks like as attached in image . Mechanic had feeling that fuels pipes locks were jammed on fuel filter, he has lot of struggle to unlock them. I have booked diagnostics expert to investigate P0171 issue ( though code means car running lean but actually car is running very very rich he saw as short term /long term fuel trims are very negative. ( -100 SHTFT & 0 to -60(LGTFT ) . I am not driving car as don't want to pollute the environment and harm the engine. Mechanic showed me by there is very small leak on end of exhaust pipe which was not root cause of P0171 , so I may have change Cat converter as well, call Skoda today abt Cat prices and they said they have stopped manufacturing these Cat converters , so possibly buying from AnroldclerkGargge worth 90 GBP . I don't why I am confident that engine is healthy and there is no major issue on piston/rings/cylinder, let see what diagnostic guy reports back. Keep u posted , thanks for reading very long message. Kind Regards raky Don't feel like junking car for silly things.