raky

Sorry Pete this is not from my module , these are from net , just wanted to show pins. Thanks Regards raky

Hi Experts, Can somebody suggest fault finding approach as FAN is not running mechanic told me that fan module is faulty , I have ordered new one from Czech Republic meantime bought used from ebay and got fitted no change. I have checked AC is also not working as well , no cold air. ( never used AC, never had gas filled ). I have connected 2 wires of radiator switch and fan started so it means fan is healthy. In my skoda fabia mk1 I have only 1 fan so it seems AC is broken which is causing FAN not to run or FAN is stoping AC not to work. Any thoughts how to fix Fan, temperature in gauge is not going beyond 90 degree to me it seems as expected as I don't drive car more than few miles , when I drove car on motorway for just 30 miles at speed of 40m/h I was driving 10 miles and then taking break of 20 minutes , but I have seen coolant boiling when I drove few miles speed of @70 ph and even found that coolant tank was leaking, which has been replaced /flushed old coolant & added new coolant as well. So I understand the fan itself is fine but does not get trigger to start. I have seen some AC related error codes on mechanic diagnostics but did not noted them. I had disconnected the ECT connection as well (as advised by experts in the group ) when car was running no effect on FAN. To me all fuses on top of battery looks fine. Any thoughts please how to test those FAN control module in car or outside car I have spare battery which probably can provide 12v at least and have multimeter as well . Bigger connector have 4 pins, not sure where we should check mother or father pins of fan module . As I understand FAN could be broken because of listed reason 1. faulty ECT 2. Faulty Fan switch 3. Fault Fan Control module 4. faulty Thermostat. 5 Broken FAN 6 faulty writing 7 Fuse issue Out of these few items have been tested and working fine - Fan is not broken, fuse seems fine, fan switch was not broken but still changed it, fan control module was suspect for temporary but bought used one from eBay and changed it ( no effect) ordered new will change. In case after changing fan control module if nothing works then wht any idea please ? Also before blaming ebay seller I want to test the module , any steps would be highly appreciated. Much appreciated ur Time to read . Thanks Kind Regards raky

Hi Guys , After few minutes of wiggling had a success using just a smaller screw driver , had latch on both the pins of connectors , the pins and connectors looks as attached , the latching mechanism also can be seen in the inside of connector (1J0906444). https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1j0906234-flat-contact-housing-4-pin-10300.html Fan module bought from ebay was useless , ordered new part hope it reaches soon original part is £200+ very expensive did not understand why it so expensive just few coils inside. I think it is doable as diy , again cannot blame mechanic as it jammed badly. bigger pins have hole where perturbed part of connector sits inside it which needs to be lifted and moved away. Smaller had also similar lock but not inside any hole. The pink cap comes easily did not had any latch or lock on it. Hope it helps somebody. Cheers

Thanks @PD75, I have bought this from ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353805667719 and did some experiment with old lying ( 3-4 junk sensors at home from past few years all ch****e junk and even recently bought junk used sensor from ebay) , I had success removing few wires in 1 sensor using the above tool but could not remove any wire for 2nd sensor this was and experiment to understand locking mechanism I think right and storn tools are needed, ur video gave me some confidence as guy is confirming that vw cars connectors can be removed with these tools. Even though I think I had released the lock but connector wouldn't come out inspite of applying lot of force. I am looking info specific to radiator fan relay connector and hopefully will give a try if it works . I have order brand new original connector from skoda-parts Not many car electricians available to do these kind of job , I have 4 wires and my wires are very thick and strong possible good knowledge of locking mechanism& proper tool would be need for safe connector change, will try to buy recommended tools let see. Cheers

Hi Experts , Any images or specific steps to de pin relay switch connector please. I understand wire small strips & their locking mechanism and will get necessary tools as well. Generic videos to different connector are available on u tube but could not find specific to this connector. Thanks Regards raky

Hi Experts , My humble mechanic in garage had changed my fuel filter which was quit messy as fuel filter was never changed from last 20-25k miles , it was messy may be effect of fuel cleaner additives as it may have dissolved some impurities in fuel tank which were blocked by fuel filter , Mechanic had also change engine oil ( I suspected some petrol smell in oil which was false alarm so changed oil today since diagnostic expert will rev the engine for testing , I was concerened that it may spoil engine) Planning to change engine oil again with new oil filter once all issue of running rich is solved) I can drive car with cold engine for few miles ( of course with rich exhaust- after disconnecting battery to reset the engine light) engine light comes up just after 1 mile once temp reaches 90 degree car starts switching off and losing power but with high gas it runs fine. Today More problem added in my list - mechanic told me while remove fuel filter it seems he had broken the plastic housing which seems was fragile , it seems to put new plastic housing we need to remove tank, this mechanic was always very nice & very experienced as I had taken his service for many years and never had issue with him , it is my bad luck. Not user if any fix can be done with extra metal sheet to stitch on both sides for firmness . At the moment he had few plastic cable locks which were quite firm but it may not be permanent solution. Any idea please how shall I go about it to sort out permanently, probably will visit body works and see if they can do anything for it. I think housing looks like as attached in image . Mechanic had feeling that fuels pipes locks were jammed on fuel filter, he has lot of struggle to unlock them. I have booked diagnostics expert to investigate P0171 issue ( though code means car running lean but actually car is running very very rich he saw as short term /long term fuel trims are very negative. ( -100 SHTFT & 0 to -60(LGTFT ) . I am not driving car as don't want to pollute the environment and harm the engine. Mechanic showed me by there is very small leak on end of exhaust pipe which was not root cause of P0171 , so I may have change Cat converter as well, call Skoda today abt Cat prices and they said they have stopped manufacturing these Cat converters , so possibly buying from AnroldclerkGargge worth 90 GBP . I don't why I am confident that engine is healthy and there is no major issue on piston/rings/cylinder, let see what diagnostic guy reports back. Keep u posted , thanks for reading very long message. Kind Regards raky Don't feel like junking car for silly things.

Thanks @nige8021, I am afraid Radiator switches in inaccessible as they are awaked location possibly need to open some pipes to reach them so gave up, But at least I learned lot about cars from you all experts Thanks you so much fo sharing knowledge. Yes After 1 mile driving temp is going 90 degree as it was happening in past no change in behaviour observed except fan is not starting and lately noticed that coolant level is going up in coolant box but opened its lid and felt heat inside as well ( when car was off). Cheers raky

Thanks , I am in Uk can pay the money if it is genuine had bad experience. ( bought lambada 2 sensor in two years, broken very fast ) but at least from europarts we would have some guarantee and last last one bought from euro & worked at least 5 years .. Apprecaite ur suggestion. cheers

Oh I thought I am alone facing this issue, This is fu***ng manufacturing defect I am also facing same issue every Time I open the engine cover, I have bought new rubber caps from ebay still facing same issue possible need to used some sand paper to smooth he perturbed area , so that it does not suck there .. cheers

Ok , Much appreciated Lee, I think that makes perfect sense as radiator fan is also not working and coolant level is going up when it is heated but it was warm when I opened and checked it, let me please try to change asap as I have Wednesday appointment for smoke test , would have been easy at home smoke tester DIY but difficult to make had partial success but not fully & gave up ( want to drive car minimum, as rich fuel may be hurting engine ) , I want to buy all original sensors from skoda, as they should have longer life with guarantee but time being I shall buy from euro parts and use it. Thanks a lot Cheers

HI Experts, Thanks all for taking their time to share knowledge and experience which is also encouraging me to share progress about my car , Around 5 years ago, my temperature bar was not moving and temperature sensor was faulty so I think if temperature sensor will not move on dashboard if it is faulty. Anyway I had visit to 4th garage today unfortunately again without any luck , I have seen some wires bundle wet after rains, seems rainwater from roof is not draining properly from outlet pipes may be sipping in wiring. Need to sort out that once car is back. Today Car driven for 2 miles to garage without any issue but lot of wet watery smoke, it was quick cold start. Of course still Radiator fan is not starting and Coolant is expanding at least 2to 4cm in coolant tank. Th scan result from this garage was 1 Air Con ( form long time I knew it was there , it never bothered me as I don't use air conditioning ) error and P0171 still exists. Just noticed behaviour when I disconnect the battery for a while & car runs smooth without any issue for few good miles but with black wet smoke. Today brought home car from garage with great difficulty since mechanic had tasted the car and engine was hot , it was getting switched off frequently when foot was removed from gas , was not allowing any idelining at all. Again late evening started again when engine was cold same idliining issue. Now possible disconnect the battery and see wht happens. Today I have used different scanner app/version and found some more info which are different from last time - short term fuel trims and long term fuel trims are both negative for todays scan also noticed crank timing was -3 degree and 1 degree after starting the car it was zero in past , there was also extra info I got which was very surprising to see the systems checks - 1. Catalyst - Not passed, Evaporation System - Not passed EGR System -Not Passed , Oxygen Sensor -Not Passed . I will keep u posted , I would disconnect battery and see if I can drive another 5 miles for different known garage again as they have smoke test machine , if this garage fails then I have final option to use 1 expert who charges huge but expert in this field got reference from few garages , Mostly mechanics are thinking that Manifold sensor may be of poor quality, I have bought it from euro parts of £60 GBP. Euro Sensor was made by HAAS Company , I have checked original sensor from skoda and it is £103, worst case scenario I shall replace again with new one or even try cleaning the old one and fit it & see. wht happens. (Any idea if I can test these sensors out side car artificially please???) Read experts views in this forum , look there is some connection of cold & warm engine behaviour once it goes bad then it remembers and messes later , but if battery is removed it resets the ecu and possibly goes smooth for few miles of course with bad wet smoke. here are some screen attached idle and running , any idea if manifold pressure values are making sense??? , I have also noticed today that shrt term fuel /long term fuel both were negative past scan had only short term fuel negative .. High mileage car possibly need below listed checked as per service manual - - Get regular checked all sensors , - Get rainwater outlet pipes cleaned , - Cam/fan belt change on proper time /mileage - Change clutch plate on time/milage -Regularly get checked engine piston/rings health - Normal serve of engine oil oil/air filters change it at least once in year. Thanks for reading please. cheers raky

Hi Experts , Apologies to bother you , I have intermittent issue with window switch, when driver side window does not work than passenger side switch also does not work a is understand they have master slave relationship, never understood the circumstances & its switch behaviour . I have new switch bought from Skoda many years back as per mechanic advice but later found that it was motor issue not switch issue so still new and packed condition. Lock /unlock switches works seemlessly . I have removed old one & It has 6 pins any info on circuit digram with voltage/ground info will help me to test on both scenrios when it is working and when it is not please. Please find switch info attached. Any experience on this matter would be highly appreciable. Cheers

Thanks @nige8021 I have looked throttle body looks very clean in-fact I sprayed little bit recommended cleaner inside throttle body a very small carbon came out when I used cleaned with cloth , will try to see if I can clean it after removing , I have already bought seal of throttle body from Skoda as I was thinking on those lines but mechanic said no need for it so left it. Once in 12 months I always used fuel cleaner additives . cheers

I think ECT temperature response of engine may be checked below as suggested on net not sure if it make sense please? Any thoughts please if it can help me tick this sensor. https://www.obd2-code.com/2017/07/p0171-fuel-system-bank-1-sensor-1-lean.html Engine coolant temperature sensor operation: - For best result, allow the vehicle to sit long enough for the engine to cool down near ambient temperature. Turn the ignition on. With the scan tool, read the Engine Coolant Temperature degree value. If the engine was allowed to sit overnight (cold soak), the temperature value should be a sensible value that is somewhere close to the ambient temperature. If engine coolant temperature is above 82°C (180°F), allow the engine to cool until 65°C (150°F) is reached. Start the engine: During engine warm up monitor the Engine Coolant Temperature degree value. The temperature value change should be a smooth transition from start up to normal operating 82°C (180°F). Also monitor the actual coolant temperature with a digital thermometer at or near the ECT sensor and thermostat positions. As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the actual coolant temperature (thermometer reading) and the scan tool Engine Coolant Temperature degree values should stay relatively close to each other.

Much appreciated @sepulchrave for your time to offer help , thanks for coming quickly please, Your approach makes senses thats why engine fan is not working possible ECT is not sensing heat in it so not triggering fan to kick off. Sorry I meant MAP only don't know correct name , apologies for that , attempted to disconnect ECT after disconnecting few other sensors to make some room , but no room to reach to ECT as the removal clips are downwards & unreachable assessed the situation and it seems unless I remove radiator coolant pipe which seems filled with coolant , ECT cannot be disconnected , Any thought please ??? I can take challenge of emptying the coolant and even remove the pipe if needed please, appreciated for your time and help. Thanks Kind regards

Hi Experts , I am keen to do below tests and not in rush but don't want garages to beat around the bush and keep changing unnecessary parts. Can any body please had done similar tests and share digram/utube links or experiences if it can be possible even , I can use multimeter and have basic tools as well, apologies if it is big list please Tests: (Car Skoda Fabia mk1 2007 ) - intermittent P0171, bad idling , black smoke again , power loss ,( Mechanic informed no piston/gasket/rings issue after high rev for good few minutes and using sophisticated scanner ) Checking fuel pressure. (How much psi, which pipe needs to be connected with gauge digram/utube link if any please) leaking fuel injector check ( how to open them tools needed, saw video if we they are leaking we can see them after opening them and switching on the ignition?) purge valve (how to open purge value , I think I know how to check it check it .. saw some videos) fuel pressure regulator – (Shall I change pressure regulator?? ) fuel filter – ( will take professional help for this definitely cannot do myself ) oxygen sensor –do I change again ( just changed few months lemark sensor, 2nd sensor in 2 years - bank1- ebay bought, bank2 was also chnaged 3-4 years bought from euro parts ) coolant temperature sensor - Dashboard value seems fine( reckon no issue) air intake temperature sensors – changed already ( MAF sensor ) vacuum leak - smoke test ( which pipe to connect for pushing smoke in the system) check pcv valve ( do u think changing ?) Check Exhaust System for Leaks. ( how to check ) Check Secondary Air System for Leaks. ( how to check) changing spark plugs ( ur views ,chnaged few months 4-5k driven) Cleaned throttle body wasn't dirty but after pressing flap it was little black ( used recommended spray) Any test to remove o2 sensor to rule out any o2 sensor issue, I can disconnect the bank 1 lambada sensor and understand the behaviour of car any approach please??? Changing park coils ( changed number 2 spark coils 4-5 months when car was misfiring but no misfiring at the moment) Thanks for reading please. Kind Regards raky

Missed mentioning there were AirCon & Radio open circuit error codes were found , never had issue with radio . cheers

Sorry guys , I am back to square some magic happen car drove around 20 miles without any issue very smooth , thought to contribute as I m getting lots of help form this group . Facing below issues 1. engine light 2. P0171 running lean back again.( P0106 is gone after changing so called MAf/MAp sensor) 3. White smoke with slight watery carbon particles( till yesterday) 4. Engine has stopped starting this morning ,cranking but not starting 5 low fuel dashboard light comes up when try to start the engine( even though there is enough fuel to drive at least 50 miles) 6 intermittent window motor issue ( some time it does not ) 7 Radiator fan had stopped working 8 Coolant is back to normal level. ( opened cap few times as advised by Pete, coolant level was reduced naturally very slowly ) Suspect , faulty fuel pump , chocked fuel filter, the leak ( as advised by Pete) may be another root cause. Hope engine is not dead. My approach would be ask mechanic to test engine pressure or check if fuel is at least coming to cylinder or not than request him to change fuel filter if still does not work then probably have to tow to some good centre for finding fault. With layman knowledge what I have , I think possibly there are both electrical and mechanical issues in car and one need expertise in both to figure out. Skoda centre are not worth as they cost fortune and expect them to get parts changed from them. I have checked there is smoke test/fault finding facility locally to find any leak(£90 per hour) or any other fault, it is better to change all known cheap sensors/parts related to fuel than get testing since who knows how many hours these guys would take to find fault and give me big bill, but I may have to to go to them if nothing works out. AS sensors have life any they may need change after certain age/miles so I am ok with it. Keep u posted, cheers

Dear All , Finally happy to share with you that CAR has been sorted few things possibly may have helped as listed below , but I had to start few times even after battery disconnected seems 100% data may not go but frequent starts helps ECU to recover any previous faults in my case multimeter mess may have been reseted by ECU , removing reconnecting some sensors may have also helped ECU to reset them. 1. When I was tightening the battery back after even after tightening screws 100% it was not holding 100% I was able to rotate the battery connector with little extra force, it means battery connectors hole was bigger even after full tight. So I have added extra thin wire to make it 100% tight. ( suspecting this could have existing issue as remembered in old battery as well but mechanic said it is fine ) 2. At least all temperature/camshaft errors were not observed till now went for ride of 2-3 miles with healthy idle & even pushed the car with high throttle , very soft sound of car. 3. After completely removing battery , ECU had pardoned me my mishandling of some of sensors with multimeter 4. Seems previous issue of Bank 1 sensor has come back ( engine light ) so it could be dodge Chinese o2/lambada BANK1 sensors again broken after 4 months - 2nd in two years. I clicked some photos of live data( all mixed up don't which one was taken when , idle and with high gas) with high low speed , fuel was low so wanted To delay till tomorrow. 5 Added 300ml fuel cleaner as well added in petrol just in case if carbon has struck there Lastly SKODA temporary shocks with many errors but at the end comes out very small parts failures may be because of age , this time I have changed battery AND map sensor both were changed by me, my humble mechanic had home visit did not charge but advised me that MAF sensor needed change. Lesson learned ,Lambada sensor available on ebay are very bad , bought 1 an d another one got with replacement warranty and it was fine , I have changed bank 2 sensor (o2/lambada) around 4 years back bough from euro parts and it seems it is running fine. Once again apprecaite each one of you for all help and concern for me. Cheers

Thanks Nigel , Will do please much appreciated for ur advice and time , it seems it is more than sensors issue , if it was not sensor issue earlier but now it seems it may be... Cheers raky

Thanks Nigel , Please don't worry, sorry just shared info so that I can help others about error codes and possibly solutions, not expected that I would get help but unexpectedly I have got loads of input from this group. Thank you so much , Please don't worry I shall consult local expert soon and get it sorted . Thank you so much for you time. Kind Regards raky

Much appreciated @nta16 for your offer to help , I live north so very far from your place , all connectors from insides looked very well , I just opened and closed them back with click sound, last try tomorrow opening spark plugs coils and looking inside and sharing info here. Thought to share Elm app Torque Lite (OBD2 & Car) was able to clear all errors there was no error but started car for 1 minute car had shaky idling so switched off immediately , let see what happens after battery disconnect for few hours I shall keep it full night and discontinue my research and look for specialist. Once again much appreciated each one of you for their time and support to share their knowledge . thanks kind regards raky

Dear @sepulchrave in beginning I had p0171 & P0106 changed so called MAF/MAp etc.. sensor fiddled around some sensors connectors with voltmeter just for fun without properly grounding the meter and landed with new error codes p0322 ,p0107,p0113 , Not sure if I have messed up some ECU components, since key was on when I was testing. Car is bad at idling but fine with full throttle was throwing very bad wet black smoke with carbon , after changing 1 sensor it has white smoke but still some carbon . Cheers

Dear Experts, Please find update of the Morning : 1. Both terminal of battery are disconnected 2. All visible sensors connected disconnect and reconnected clicked properly ( some had very less wire length were very difficult ) 3. Pulled all connectors cables and checked if any thing is loose , all looked well 4. clicked photo of engine oil after opening of cap please advice if u something looks bad ( changed oil/air /oil filter march 2021 5-7k miles driven so far) Next plan probably tomorrow Will open coils and plugs and see if there is anything in it. If anybody can advice of the engine oil health based on photo on tissue paper . have also taken photo with unused fresh engine oil on tissue paper as attached for ur info. thanks advance for all help and support. Cheers

Thanks Stewart , Will Do tomorrow , coolant colour was pink, I think first day I saw oil cap as well looked to me was fine but will click some photos of it will share it tomorrow. There is definitely some realation of me testing, removing/ plugging some sensors which may have some cable issue or been shorted by my voltmeter , will disable battery to reset the ecu , and also try to see if all are connected properly and locked just in case. Let see how much I would be able to test tomorrow but will keep u posted guys. Once again am grateful to each one of you for taking pain to help me. Thanks & kind Regards