raky

Thanks Sepul , Much apprecaited ur time , I had Precat bank1 sensor issues from last 3 -4 years , changed 2nd lambada sensor in last 2 years , bought from ebay with warranty of 2 years but was broken after 1.5 years and got replacement after that it was going fine from last 6 months. I can change ECT but my question why ECT issue was not picked up at last few days where I had only two codes P0171, P0106 ( same code were shown mechanic scans) , after changing so called MAF sensor 3 errors were popped up i.e P0322,P0107 & P0113. of course in between I had few fiddles of tests using voltmeter and connection disconnections to at least total 4 sensors I think. I had 1-2 time battery red light while driving in last 2 years so thought to change battery and did last week , after battery change i have noticed my window motor started working again mysterously and 2nd development is mystery for me after mechanic high rev of car for good 4- 5 minutes ( day before ) my coolant liquid has increased which is clear pink NO MILKY... let me buy etc tomorrow and change it hope it would be straight forward. If I have circuit digram I shall see in it and seek u guys help if I don't understand. Cheers

Dear All , Do u all agree that it is electrical problem rather than mechanical as full throttle cars handles very nicely no misfiring etc.. Or do u think removing spark plugs and looking inside would throw lite about engine health, as my mechanic was confident that there were 2 issues 1. MAF and 2nd was Cat converter as he can smell unburnt petrol, he tested the car with full throttle for long & was satisfied that it is not engine issue & smoke seems white now and carbon particles does not seem much have not noticed with low throttle at least. Please share ur views whenever coveneint.. Cheers

My car details I think is below Skoda Fabia 2007 Petrol Hatchback 1.4 16V FWD I 6Y2 1390cc 74KW 100HP AUB;BBZ: Year: 2007 Thanks @nige8021Pete & @sepulchravefor your time and help. cheers

"Take the spark plugs out tomorrow before running the engine and shine a torch down each of the holes, looking to see if any of the piston crowns look wet." Thanks Pete, will do as advised . I think I will became car expert by the time my car is back on roads. Once again really apprecaite ur time. Cheers

Thanks Nige&Pete for ur time please , I shall disconnect battery tomorrow morning and reconnect after good 5-6 hours and see if issue still persists, My past experience says that car generally picks up and new part info pretty quickly at least behaviours become normal immediately but engine light does go after 4-5 miles. Any thoughts this all mess had made some kind internal issue of carbon clogging ( even though I was not driving just starting feb times day ) driven 5-10 miles with bad exhaust . Cheers

Pete I have elm 327 and app ( blue tooth) , it had facility to check different graphs as well. it reads code very nicely which matched with mechanic expensive machine . toady I have cleared code last when I left car there was no engine light but car idling was bad I left started for 2-3 minutes only will check tomorrow again . thanks Cheers

Pete so Kind of your intention to help others , I have multimeter and basic knowledge only thing mistake I did I think I have not disconnected battery & did not test with proper grounding ( key was in) How serious it could be did it effected sensors or ECU please ? I shall reattempt to test voltage again one by with proper procedure if needed. cheers

"See what's going on with your engine coolant first." Pete since today I did not rev( mechanic did yesterday) the engine high but before starting I did open the coolant cap I still see the expectedly some ghost have added extra coolant in my box. Please advice do u think battery disconnecting would reset everything back to normal. how do we reset my mistake of connecting disconnecting of sensors which had caused this major issue any thoughts please . Do u feel it is technical issue or electrical issue ?? cheers

Much appreciated Pete for your time, yes i did disconnected 2 sensors 1. EGR (number 13) and 1 was probably temperate sensor ( below MAP sensor ) 3 pins as shared earlier photo of it and tested the voltage of them . Did I mess up please? Do u think ECU may have also effected or just these sensors any advice what sensors to change I don't think we have electrical expert in area where i live and don't feel that it is mechanical issue. The pdf I am referring does not name these sensors properly as below MAP sensor there is 3 pin sensor. Please advice next course of action I am brave enough now to change any sensor as mostly all are reachable except 1 ( 3pins in which is more difficult position below map sensor) Grateful to you for your time. another weird thing happened my window motor started working , not sure it was due to bad battery or some connectivity issue. Do u expect me to remove both terminal of battery and let ECU reset everything again back to its original setting as it is crazy just disconnection and connection again should not break the sensor. Kind Regards raky Fuel injection AUA,AUB,BBY,BBZ,BKY.pdf

Well party has just started... luckily removed the sensor with very small computer screwdriver which was quite dirty with its age , was able to fix the new one but now previous two code vanished but new codes had come P0322 P0107 P0113 don't understand why these things happened not sure while testing with multimeter or without removing battery and fixing the sensor had messed up don't know... End up in big time trouble , had app which cleared the code , the idling is VERy unstable and I also don't see temp is moving though can see water coming out of exhaust but not serious carbon as it had yesterday ... Finding electric expert would be very hard any thoughts are just keep chaining sensors one by one please. Just surprised my window motor started working possible due to new battery or something else do know, Experts any thoughts please ?? please find photo of attached MAP sensor Cheers

Dear All , Thank you so much for taking pain to share your experiences to help me, So far some good news first I was able to disconnect the fussy connector so called map/maf sensor with laptop small screwdriver just small twist was enough after disconnecting it has observed more engine lights( of course) on dashboard( stability epc etc) but car had stopped throwing wet carbon it was just white clean smoke so it seems root cause may be dirty sensor but I have ordered new from euro parts and will get it changed on Monday, I am not sure if mechanic will clean and put back twice also it has done already 120k so best is it change it . it is on very difficult position hope mechanic would be able to remove without needing ramp. Looks it has two sensor near dipstick - 3 pin and 4 pin( MAP). map sensor is fully blocked with dispstick steel holder. keep you posted the progress hope it helps others. Cheers

Dear All , Pete @sepulchrave@Stewartasb@[email protected] apprecaite your time to share experience and help me , I think these two(MAF&PCV )are possibly at are positioned at very difficult location would defiantly need technical expertise and necessary tool to take them out or clean them. (99% mechanics may have technical knowledge but does not have electronics knowledge and no body have patience to test these sensors or electronics , so thinking to change maf and catalytic converter( it was changed when it 60k now 120k) while on ramp would request mechanic to look pcv sensor as well I shall keep my voltmeter in case if he allows me test it and check values. Really grateful to you all learned people for sharing knowledge, very delighted that at least I had gained good knowledge about the issue and possibly can share with friends if they ask suggestion that way we can reduce co2 on planet not unnecessary chaning the parts which still may have life in them. Cheers

Dear Pete , Much apprecaited for image , mechanic came in just tried to take out MAF sensor without any luck the strip of dipstick is stopping the access for unblock the lock , he tested the car with full accelerator apart from back wet smoke everything seemed fine at low speed it idling is not stable but with full speed black wet smoke is thrown also noticed today that my coolant had increased the box was near the min level but now it has gone above max level which was weird for me. I have also tried to pull the sensor but seems lock is not getting released pressure with screw driver is not working as opened few other sensors without any issue as understood the mechanism. I have scared to drive the car as it would spoil the coil/plugs . I have found another sensor ( don't no ) near MAF sensor as show in image was able to open and test the voltage it had 5 & .2 volts has 3 wires tested all with each other with ignition on, but when I removed I saw the car had stability light on ... and it went back when I put back. Mechanic advice was to change Cat converted as unburned petrol smell was also observed by him and even my me ( post covid less smell sensing ) Some interesting image may help others. Next week he will take it to garage and do more physical check up after putting on ramp. Thank you so much for your support and help. I shall come back to you on motor once I sort out engine issue. Good luck . Cheers WhatsApp Video 2022-04-01 at 11.59.32 PM.mp4

Much appreciated Nigel , Sure will ask mechanic to look PCV valve as well , Cheers

Much appreciated Nige, thought so about sensor position in my car (2007 16 BBZ ) it is at very awkward position near the dipstick and possible need some pipes to be removed before reaching there , on Motor also grateful to share the info please. Will consider checks before changining sensor since car have high mileage so possible may need change those. Cheers

Thanks @nta16 I generally buy from euro /SRS parts bosch spark plugs but I think electronics parts in market are cheaper but have less life for sure full agree with you at the end it cost high . Thanks @Stewartasb that makes sense, will not just chnage it will do test before changing I have multimeter and found some circuit info as well as I have basic technical skills, Can any body please guide me please where is the so called MAF sensor as I have seen two sensors close by dipstick but very difficult to reach I presume one would be MAF as it was looking like that. if MAX sensor is near dipstick than certainly mechanic help would be great (hoping he comes tomorrow). Please find attached images of my car like ... These images are NOT of my CAR but seems matching with my car . Once again thanks all let us keep sharing info so that planet can be saved from junk. Wish some expert finds solution of window motor as they go bin may be because of 1-2 resistor or transistor( worth pennies ) issues in circuit. Thanks , kind regards raky engine_image.pdf engine2.pdf

Thanks for advice please, I think u may be right vacuum leaks could be major culprits as 6 months back I have changed Bank1 lambada sensor( 2nd in 2 years) & spark plugs and 1 faulty coil . I had servo brake pipe issue approx 4-5 years back the behaviour of car seems different this time I had checked all pipes as servo pipe looks still new touched physically seems alright, engine speed is fluctuating, car switches off when stopped, running lean, car throwing very thick & wet black smoke with carbon particle, the error code is P0171 and P0106. Hopefully mechanic will look the issue on Friday and advice further.. Thanks for ur time please to share ur suggestion. cheers

Hi , I am currently facing above errors and very humble mechanic is guiding me for investigation as he is busy & will sort out after 2-3 days, meantime I did basic check for all fuseses , hopefully MAF sensor may be issue , this year MOT went very smooth. But I have to chang Bank1 sensor in 1.5 years luckily it was in warranty for 2 years bought from ebay so it was free just costed me labour otherwise car is going strong. Changed battery as well it was more than 3 years old. Keep u posted wht happens , searched the group but never found the location of MAF sensor as somebody mentioned that it 2007 fabia,1.4, does not have MAF sensor rather it have manifold pressure sensor and an air temp sensor, but there was no clear image available , watched utube as well but no luck so some clue I have got it hopefully it would be left side of car near coolant bottle or right side near throttle body , I will check if there any MAF type sensor is available soon. Car is blowing wet carbon ,misfiring , driving but get switch off frequently , hope engine gasket is fine. Also right side window motor is also broken and door may need sealing as water gets in car which would be sorted soon hopefully. if anybody is breaking please do let m know about window motor. Cheers

Very true , I got very cheap rear callipers from autodoc ( Germany ) much cheaper than europarts or SrsPArts , changed rear callipers & front ones are still running original which came with car. Everybody is selling made in China parts and they do not last long. I have chnaged twice heater resistor bought from ebay and its lasted for 2 years only. Decided to buy Window motor original from skoda and going good so far. Cheers

Thanks , As per my experience of two cars, used so far - Skoda and Ford Fiesta - Skoda is winner even though always scares me with engine lights issues but at the end need to shell out few bucks for only for broken sensors i.e engine cooling sensor. (don't remember cost) / o2 señsor ( approx 80/100 GBP),abs fuse strip ( 1-2 GBP). the mileage is 120K and car engine is strong and healthy like new, having very good pickup and power. If one knows little bit of electronics system of skoda then it is worth buying car. The Ford Fiesta had very low pickup and engine was struggling on very low hills, the mileage of car was aprox 80k. This is good forum hope everyone shares info about fault found and their solution & experience so that cars can be repaired cheaply to save the lovely planet. I think future is electric car higher petrol cost will encourage all to buy electric cars and it would be good for planet and humans as well. Hope govt provides big incentives to encourage electric cars. Thanks & regards raky

Dear All , Thought to share experience last week while driving locally I saw all three lights (Engine light ECU , Stability light) came up on dashboard and sacred me as though some thing seriously wrong in car, but noticed that driving was fine and car was NOT strolling, I drove very slowly back home and start googling, went to local mechanic he was kind to run free scan and found that (16955) P0571 code, but since he it was electrical fault so he was helpless since he did not had skill to resolve electrical issues. After searching issue in this site I found the solution , thanks to gentleman in this website - who advised to look 1st brake light bulbs which was easy fix , I immidately tested and found that both the brake light bulbs were fused. So replaced them and found that 2 lights gone. I understood that issue has been fixed since skoda has smart mechanism to removing the engine light after a while if associated errors are fixed, and thats excatly happened after 5 miles , engine light gone. (Dash board back to silent mode - no lights) Each bulb was around 50p in Europarts. Wondering why so much complicases for silly issues why Skoda have to raise very serious alarm on dash board as though car is going to dye sooner. Though to share experience as it may help somebody, Best would be keep some spare bulbs and always check all light,indicators before even going to mechanic. Thanks Regards raky

Hi Experts , Can somebody please share their experience how to bring back non functional parking sensors. Not sure if seller of my car may have removed fuse when they were non functional. Any info would be highly appreciated. cheers raky

Thought to update ,Today Nice young mechanic had spend time on my car and changed all spark and found that new code of clynder 3 misfiring earlier it was misfiring Clynder 2 so he changed just Cylinder 3 coil and error gone. For abs sensor error it was silly thing rather than ABS sensor itself, he found that the ABS sensor Strip fuse was broken which was worth £2.5 . Please note that I have cleaned the plug of Cylinder 1 and Cylinder 2 with carburettor /vgr cleaner , not sure if there would have been any dust which was misfiring. I think before changing any coils one should remove them and clean connector with electronics cleaner and test it. Hopefully now I shall monitor and see if engine light comes up again please. The error were P0302 , P0106 and P0170. Hope it helps , Skoda engine seems rock solid even after 116k. Thanks Regards

Agree KenONeill , in my case the rubber seal was missing so there was plenty of empty space for throttle body to suck air chances that majority of air would have unflitred. So ordered new from Skoda hopefully will fix soon.

Wino Much appreciated your time and help . I am trying to buy stuff as advised. Wht a shame soem mechanic may least bothered to fix the gasket between air filter and throttle body and all these years car may have been sucking polluted air from years . This would have direct impact on engine efficiency. Thanks Kind Regards raky