The1effect

I change all the filters after 8 000 miles which happens in 10 months for me, not looking for cheapest, I thought Valoe is a reputable brand or at least equal to Man

I just found out that my car doesn't have a water sensor so everything is clear for me now 😁 There is a huge difference between valeo fuel filters price and bosh ones and I knew valeo is a good brand

I am trying to buy it from autodoc and I see to many variants, all fitting 2.0 tdi in description but is that right? 🧐 to much difference in size and some have water sensor . My engine is 2.0 tdi 2016 CRMB

This is stand alone device autel maxi link 720ml if I remember correctly, no phone or pc

The injectors cam be very noisy when not working properly but you will also notice interrupted acceleration and and erratic idling. Because my car has high mileage I always leave it for 2 minutes idling when starting with the engine cold, and not pushing hard until is warm. A stethoscope might point to precise location of where this noise is coming from. If you don't have one, you cam diy one with a long screwdriver an half of plastic bottle( see on you tube) but be careful is dangerous with the engine running getting close using that

You can start with some quick checks. When the engine is off and cold check oil level if is right , it shouldn't have a strong smell of diesel and also look if there's any foam/foamy in the oil, you can also check that on the oil cap. See where the coolant level is, you can open the coolant cap and look inside if is oily or very dirty ( make sure the engine is cold). Make a picture at the level to recheck after using the car. Have you noticed any loss of power, low mpg, more noisy engine since the problem started?

I don't know what I am missing here but mine is raised when engine is hot and drops when cold. I also noticed a small loss of coolant but untraceable after my belt was changed , I have to top up after two months or so, I am doing 0ver 500 miles a month

Oil ash rise bi 0.1 in 10.000 miles? In mine I saw a difference of 0.8 in 4.000 mile. Are you sure you got the correct measurements? I believe my engine works normally

I don't hear anything wrong there, mine is a bit noisy as-well when cold but not to worry as I consider normal

Updating the software is going to reset or delete the installed codes ? Like car play, voice activation etc

Just observed on mine, first oxygen sensor start to show mA readings before reach 90C ( coolant temperature) and the second oxygen sensor at 80C (oil temperature). The first oxygen sensor is positioned at the exit of exhaust and the second one after catalic converter so it's logical that is reaching optimal temperature (600C) to start functioning before the second oxygen sensor. I am interested in what readings they show when the oil is at 90C on other cars

I think your engine wasn't warm enough for the o2 sensors to work properly, plus they need time to reach a temperature of 600 C to read as it should. Can you please take the same measurements when it reach 90 C

Thank you! I can now compare and see that my problem seems with the oxygen sensors or... current of oxygen sensor 0.250 Lambda but 3.005 mA 🧐. are you sure your engine is working fine? I also checked a passat same engine and year and have same reading as mine including the mA

No warning lights on dashboard or codes on diagnostic tool. I can see some live data values but I don't have a chart to compare and see where the problem is. I am trying to learn the meaning of lambda values, maf and fuel pressure for this type of engine I believe the fuel mixture is on the lean side, probably Saturday I'll clean the Maf sensor

Does anyone know what is the normal pressure value of the high pressure fuel pump at idle? On the scanner: Rpm 771 Coolant temp 88 C Fuel pressure 25450 Kpa rel ( sometimes oscillating to 30800 Kpa) Lambda11 4.210 O2S11 3.016 mAh Lambda12 4.154 O2S12 3.020 mAh I am feeling some hesitation in acceleration loss of power. Car has 110000 miles I also add oxygen and lambda sensors as I don't really know with what to compare the values, I didn't find any engine specifications chart but might have something to do with this problem

When you unplug the Maf while the car is running you should feel a change in engine behaviour otherwise what's the point of it. Check/ clean or replace it. See if any wire are damaged

A quick interesting update. The regeneration started before reaching home 😒 after 45 min of traffic. Lasted at least 15 min. The exhaust gas temp in bank 1 sensor 3 didn't go over 600 degrees C but stayed in that range. After those 15 min the rpm start dropping the device showed that generation was still happening but was passive and temp drop to 250 c , after another 5 min regen was stopped so maybe is better to leave it another few minutes after is finished. Interestingly the oil temperature drop from 100 to 94 while regenerating so it doesn't seem to have any effect on engine this process

I specified that engine needs to be warm or optimal temperature and the all accessories off ( like ac, headlights , heated seats or mirrors etc.), start stop won't work and outside temperature matching September-October . What are the other reasons that I didn't mention ? 🤔

Let me explain more in details my driving conditions, when the regeneration is happening and why I believe is that so. I bought this car with high mileage and I am looking at everything to make sure is working properly. When the dpf measured or calculated values are around 22g I expect it to happen soon, I am turning radio volume low/off, so I can hear the engine noise change when is active while idling, use vehicle data- instant fuel consumption on dashboard screen to see the actual values ( use l/km units as mpg doesn't show anything on idle) this is usually around 0.5 or 0.6 l/km ( no ac, headlights or heated mirrors in use) with the engine warm and 1.0 l/km or more when regeneration is active. Rmp is at 760 ( same, warm engine, no accessories on) and around 1k when regenerating. If I am already at destination I'll wait around 10 to 15 minutes until it finishes. If it takes more I'll raised the rpm a bit to see if it drops back to 760 if not then is still regenerating. And walk around the car to feel the burnt rubber smell as another confirmation, don't put you hand close to exhaust as the fumes burns like hell. After everything returns to normal I'll wait 2 minutes to let the system cool off and then turn off the engine, never heard the fans working afterwards. Checking the soot level it shows values between -5 and 5 grams on both measured and calculated and I tried many times concluding that is how regenerating is taking place. I drive around 10 miles in 20 minutes in the morning and same distance and 50 minutes in the evening, in weekends is slightly different but not much, I refuel only from Shell and Esso (UK), the test was made in September-October and I believe in summer time it will take less time, I rarely use start stop, it won't work anyway when regenerates. This is my experience with my car, to note not every car is the same and the conditions might be different.

Is this the noise is making?

I just noticed the dpf regeneration started when engine was almost cold , or in 5 min after starting it, 10 degrees C outside. This is contrary of what I knew. The coolant needle was a bit over 50 C and the engine warm up faster than normal. I was expecting to regenerate as it does after 120 mile( city driving all times) but never with engine cold. Another thing I noticed, it doesn't matter if you push it hard when regeneration it taking place, it will take same time or even longer than just idling in car park and waiting to finish ( usually 10 min) . For the ones that don't know , if engine is hot (90 C) and rpm is at 1000 then don't turn off, leave it until is finished and start dropping, it doesn't take much time. You can go around the car and feel the burnt rubber smell just to be sure, it will save you from dpf trouble in the future

What about oil mass? Is there any method of cleaning it or the dpf has to be changed?

Has anyone installed on 2.0 tdi euro 6 engine? My car has done over 110000 miles and I am driving in city traffic all time, why I am thinking at installing one is because the dpf oil mass is at 35g and increases quite fast and egr clogging as-well considering my driving conditions. But I am afraid of future oil leaks that can happen because of the extra pressure inside engine.

I give it a hard acceleration on hill about 10 minutes and keep it at 3000 rpm and it start running smoothly on idle , also I fell it more powerful. Can't believe it, I think I've cleaned some injectors, and this after two months of running sluggish. Hope it helps someone