The1effect

Same as me, I used the same sump plug for the third time. I have a new one just in case, but upon close inspection was not necessary to replace it.

5W40, 5W30, 0W30 and 0W40 have different viscosity at cold and optimal temperature. Why is such a big variation for this type engine? I’ll go for 5w40, hopefully is more suitable for UK weather. It seems that 502 00 is the same as 505 00

I am a bit confused about what type of oil should I get. On the book says 502 00, 504 00 a). I am trying to buy castrol oil 5w40 and I get confusing results, some show on the back 505 00, 505 01 specifications and other have 502 00. I have been using Castol on all of my cars without any problems and I want to stick whit it, also I want to follow manufacturer specifications only.

You need to check the live data values for the injectors, but I'm not sure about the turbo. Before going to a mechanic, inspect the engine for any leaks and periodically monitor the oil level to see if it's dropping, and in the worst case, if it's rising. Fuel quality is crucial, and I personally use Esso and Shell. About a year ago, I almost cleaned my injectors as suggested by the mechanic because my engine was very noisy. I used diesel from BP. However, after refueling from a different place, everything went back to normal

Mine regenerates after 110 miles (170 km) but most of my driving is in traffic. I never stopped the regenerating, maybe in emergency situations . It takes in my case 15 minutes and more if the car is not stationary.

There is always a small difference, sometimes of 7g or more in my case, I consider it normal. What was the oil ash mass before you clean the DPF? Or why did you clean it?

Hi! I haven’t installed one and to be honest I won’t. Almost two years since I been using the car and considering that is working perfectly I don’t want to change that 😅. What I think is important is to never interrupt the regeneration process, let it do its thing , I my case won’t last more than 15 min

After fitting the rings have you checked the pressure again? Fitting new rings won’t do much if the cylinder tube is worn

Usually high fuel consumption comes with loss of power and maybe smoke/strong smell of diesel on the exhaust, is that your case too? Scanning for codes doesn’t reveal everything without checking live data

77 000 miles on it, probably it is the original one so it should have 8 years and this is why I am worried. I am thinking to use it for another year until I’ll change it 🤔

I won’t give any details about age or mileage of the belt yet so it won’t influence your visual opinion about it, I will be grateful for any answers . So what do you think? It looks ok or not, I haven’t seen how different a new one looks like

I just got the car 64 plate citigo monte carlo. I noticed the drl are not on and I used vcds 2.0.5 but the coding is rejected error 31. The car have fog lights and I tried cornering lights as well but the code is rejected, security code 31347 is invalid. The only coding that works is auto-lock when over 15 km/h. I have tried with OBDeleven and same results. One strange thing is that DRL via fog light coding is accepted but I don’t see them working. I can’t make sense of this, like something is not right 😒

I spoke to garmin customer service today, I gave them the details of the device model, they couldn't help me, the device is locked with the registration email, probably from the first owner. I guess I have to use it as it is. Connected to the car it works and doesn’t ask for password because it was registered for the first time with this car. It is good to know if someone wants to buy second hand one from ebay it might not work.

I just bought the car 64 reg, I am trying to use the garmin navigation ( out of the car) so I can update it and reset it. When I turn it on it ask me for password, as a second owner I don’t know where to find it, I am even afraid now will be blocked if I reset it without password. Any suggestions on what to do?

My car is randomly doing that, 5 seconds crank once a month maybe, I have been thinking about battery as well because is old but doesn’t make sense because the cranking process is fast when it takes long , and usually starting fast in cold weather and after a few days of been stationary. My worry is about the fuel pressure, on my example when then engine is turned off ( 90 degrees oil temperature) the fuel pressure should rise , I am using vcds live data, in my case is dropping. This might be one cause of long cranking

Check every wheel by using the jack to lift it up, spin and check for noise, also try to move the wheel left right up down, you shouldn’t have excessive play. If you still are not sure, drive with someone in the back, he could identify better where the noise is coming more exactly

Do the sound changes when you are on the curve on the motorway? Test it on each direction , it will give you more information

My own experience: 123000 miles, oil ash 39/80g. Most of time sitting in traffic, regeneration is usually starting when I reach 23g soot calculated or measures. I never interrupted a regeneration ( only takes 15 minutes in my case). Everything is working fine. Also one in four times I refill with premium diesel (shell or esso), never used additives

Hi! What values should a start drop test should have? And voltage after a day of sitting ? My car have the original battery, or I think it does. I want to test it 2016 reg

Also check if you got the advance pre warning option checked in infotainment settings if you car has it

I got often the warning sign and sound but I might have a different driving style than yours. Never seen it braking itself though hope never will, usually is to late. In my experience it appears when your not touching the brake pedal as system thinks you're not paying attention in critical moment

To be honest I am changing the fuel filter at every oil change just to look inside filter can for metal particles to make sure the high pressure fuel pump is doing ok , I got some mileage on my car 😅

Don't think that you can replace any injector by yourself, even with step by step you tube tutorials if you don't have experience in that domain. You have to torque at specified values or disaster, also after every injector/ injectors changed a flush must be done to entire fuel system. If more than one injector goes wrong in a short time the cause is something else usually hight pressure pump is getting bad. My advice to you is to check the fuel filter if you haven't changed yet, open the cap and look with a flush-light for sparkling tiny metal particles, this are from highpressureprump and it destroys everything in the system including all injectors. Getting another engine in my opinion is not worthing the risk , either repair it or sell

I don't know what to try to fix the auto-dimming to work again. I have cleaned both sensors... I observed that (in daytime) by blocking the ambient sensor- the one at the back of the mirror - with the finger for a few good seconds, the warning green led in the front reduces the light intensity meaning that it senses when is night so its working. Then using the phone torch on the glare sensor- the one adjacent To on/off button and nothing happens, no dim 😕. Have anyone had this problem?

That looks same as mine , 117.000 miles on , nothing unusual