TLV

It seems to trigger more during colder (or moist) periods. At some point it kept telling me the foglight bulbs were gone about every third start. Removed the bulbs, reseated them. And they're still going after more than than a year later. I've probably had dozens of bulb notices, but only one or two bulbs blown. If the bulbs are easy to reach, check them out. If they're cheap, also replace them while you're at it. Check contact points. Different bulbs have different mounting mechanisms. Sometimes the bulb is fine, but the socket needs a check. Correct me if I'm wrong but once the system thinks an indicator bulb is out, it refuses to try to use it? I remember something like that very vaguely. Bulb related issues have been a great source of annoyance.

I suspect it's just water vapor. When it gets cold, it's normal. It smells like fuel like it does on any other car. Stops doing that once the car has blown all the water out the exhaust. Due to the way a DPF restricts exhaust flow, having it removed probably plays a part in the situation. With having the car remapped, such phenomena could appear, depending on the quality of the remap. With the car probably running richer, it would make sense if there was more unburnt fuel being dumped out.

If you have several sets of damaged wheels, playing with small increments doesn't help. Different wheel alloys and designs cope with abuse differently. If they all brake, the fix isn't that simple. Unless you drive like a maniac, the current suspension isn't working right on your roads. If the suspension doesn't dampen the bumps, the tires and wheels do and their capacity is being greatly exceeded. If you managed to find wheels that would take such abuse, the next softest thing would brake. Proper OEM wheels are usually very tough. If they break under normal driving, something is very wrong.

Walk away. They'll say whatever to get the sale.

The ABS pump bleeding procedure should probably done about once every five years when doing brakes. Otherwise some of the old fluid remains in the pump. Many would say it's not necessary, though. If you're having all of the fluid replaced, might as well get the pump bleeding done too for peace of mind. When bleeding brakes, you want to keep the cap off so you can always pour more brake fluid in when necessary. If the reservoir goes empty, you'll probably get some air into the lines. The cap is pretty much there to keep the fluid from spilling out while driving over bumps.

No. Pretty much the only time when you need to do anything different is when the handbrake is electronically operated. There is the ABS pump bleeding procedure, however. But that should be the same if HHC is enabled/disabled or even if said ABS pump has the feature. If you want all of the fluid changed in the system, then yes, you should ask the garage to do said procedure.

With that mileage on the car, it's very likely a bearing needs replacing. Yes, there's a bearing for each rolling wheel. If a bearing on one side is about to go, then the other side is very likely to go soon as well. Because the front and rear bearings are often different plus they experience different loads, doing all four is not a bad idea but not necessarily suggested either. If either one of the front or rear ones go bad, just do the other side. The other axle might last quite a while longer. As a rule of thumb you don't need tracking done after bearing changes.

After having the first and second injector replaced, I checked the injection quantity deviation with VCDS. Indicates how the new and old injectors are getting along. It was obvious all four needed to be replaced. The electrical parts hadn't failed on those functioning but old injectors, the mechanical parts had worn too much out of spec compared to the new ones from mileage. Usually getting used injectors with similar mileage would be an option (though not a recommended one), but they're time bombs from the factory. The car ran with mixed injectors but definitely not right. Down on power, more vibrations at all rpm's, horrendous vibrations are idle. Unless your car has very low mileage, you should definitely consider budgeting for four injectors. Even if you do get away with less than four, the car will not run as good as it did before. You can prime the electric fuel pump by either hooking up 12v straight to the pump or where ever it has been wired to. If I'm not mistaken, someone on the forum dismantled their way to the fuel pump and afterwards either figured out or was suggested a more convenient way by hooking up power to an easily accessible place the fuel pump is wired to.

Firstly, I'll mention that it's unlikely anyone besides me will comment on this subject. I've asked before. Now, on with the business. Read this: http://caddy2k.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29215 So best case scenario you're looking at one new or refurbished injector. I had to have all four replaced to get the car sorted when this happened to me. The new and old injectors didn't seem to work well because their injection corrections were way too different. First I had one replaced, then the second and then the last two injectors. The wallet got a good kick in the nuts from said experience. As far as I know, you need a whole replacement injector, no getting around that. If it indeed is a fault with the electrical part. A guide about injector programming: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/2.0L_CR_TDI#Injector_Quantity_Adjustment_.28IMA.29_and_Injector_Voltage_Adjustment_.28ISA.29 Another thing to consider is that you'd need diagnostics equipment to prime the electric fuel pump after working on the fuel delivery. There are ways around that, though. A person in this thread claims that yes, the car will run without injector programming: https://caddy2k.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30805 If you do decide to replace the injector yourself, make sure to get the proper seals and injector bolts as well. Depending on your mileage, just one injector might not suffice. New ones are pricey, but you might find refurbished ones for 100 pounds each plus vat. Take a look here: http://www.commonraildiesels.com/product_info.php/volkswagen-golf-tdi-reconditioned-siemens-diesel-injector-03l130277b-p-2810 Seems to be a rather decent price. In fact, a lot cheaper than elsewhere. Wonder why.

Greenline suspension. The floorpan hits some nasty speedbumps unless going at crawling pace, especially with people in the back. Driving on and off certain curbs, floorpan hits the ground (crappier parking lots). Driving at walking pace through deeper potholes, the floorpan hits the ground. All the cars in the family are lower than average from factory, but the Greenline Superb is the only one I'm having this issue with. I'm pretty sure the floorpan is lower to the ground than the sideskirt, so it doesn't look all that low. The suspension was checked three months ago, no issues reported.

When retaining the factory airbox and just changing the air filter element, the sound doesn't change. In fact, nothing perceptible changes. Sound changes when you throw out the factory airbox and replace it with something like this:

Wouldn't we all like a cheap performance upgrade with no negative consequences? The one manufacturers don't want you to know about?

You were already considering a plug-in heating system, perhaps consider using a mains power battery charger/tender overnight.

Very few dashcams have batteries in them, some even recording for hours. They're rare because it gets hot in the car during summer time and heat kills said batteries fast. It can be either from the car being left out in the sun and becoming a sauna inside or even just from driving during hot weather with the sun shining through the windshield and on to the dashcam. Cameras produce quite a bit of heat themselves and need to vent said heat somewhere.. That's why most modern dashcams come with capacitors instead of batteries, which can take the heat. Ideally you'd place your phone and dashcam in places where they can get cool air. Even with the AC running, you may experience your phone getting so hot that it refuses to charge. The same can happen to dashcams and other gadgets. Some don't even do that and just let the battery die.

Your solar idea seems flawed. Find a specific panel first and then explore your options. If it's small enough to be conveniently placed in the car without getting in the way, it'll most likely barely power the camera in ideal conditions and the UK is not exactly known for sunny weather. What's worse, there's a number of reasons to avoid parking your car under the sun. Few cars have solar panels as an option and they're mostly used for ventilating the car without bothering the battery. They're just not capable of doing much else besides running a fan.

Stop-start only functions when the engine is warm enough and there's enough charge in the battery to definitely start the car. If the battery starts running low while the engine has been stopped automatically, the engine will re-start to charge it back up. If the car thinks it's warm enough to stop the engine, it's fine. It's common knowledge that cold starts contribute a lot to overall engine wear, but not so with hot starts. Cars with stop-start come with better starters as a part of the package to prevent them from wearing out prematurely. If you permanently disable start-stop, you'll still benefit from the uprated starter, especially with cold starts. In my rough guesstimation, stop-start ends up costing more in battery wear than it helps with saving fuel in most scenarios. But the difference is insignificant due to batteries wearing out over time anyhow and difficult to measure since the benefit of start-stop is minuscule and batteries last for years.

Do you intend to install a second battery? I doubt battery management approves. Or relocate the current battery to the trunk for the dashcam? Wiring it as is makes more sense.

If it was an AGM, then yes, no need to change the type. Glad to hear things worked out for you. Not exactly cheap, but at least it was an easy fix. I've been considering getting an AGM battery to replace my lead-acid one, but it's not dead nor dying, so it doesn't make sense. The car started great even after the coldest night this winter.

When coding the battery, there's three things that should be changed/checked. The serial number (can be pretty much anything that's not the old one, as long as the car accepts the coding.), amp hours and the type of the battery. If your car came with a regular lead-acid battery, it's coded for one. If you didn't change that, the car will not damage the new AGM battery but it will not take full use of it. However, if the car is coded for an AGM battery and you install a regular lead-acid one, that's when things can go boom (battery can get overcharged).

Skoda has been known to be stingy with the batteries they install, using pretty much the cheapest ones they can get away with. If your battery really is a regular lead-acid one and not AGM or EFB, there's most likely your culprit. If you do end up replacing the battery, make sure to get the car coded, so battery management will take proper care of the new battery, otherwise there really isn't a point in replacing the battery unless the current one is dead. Skipping battery coding should only be done if the replacement battery is identical (same type and amp hours). Take a closer look at the battery to make sure which model it is. If it actually is an EFB/AGM one, it's just too tired for start-stop to work. Decent places that sell batteries can also load test it. Checking the voltage only reveals a part of the story. You can also check the battery voltage while cranking the engine.

How's the battery doing on your car? Is it EFB, AGM? Start-Stop puts a great strain on the battery. If the battery is healthy, start-stop works often but as time goes on, it works less and less due to the battery wearing. To get start-stop properly working on my car I'd have to buy a new AGM battery to replace my common lead-acid one, but the replacement battery costs more than the fuel it'd help to save in the long run, just for stop-start. My Superb indicates a consumption of 0.6-0.7 litres per hour when idling. It's barely anything. In fact, it's needed to keep the engine warm. If the engine cools down, start-stop will not function anyway. If start-stop turns the engine off, the electronics will be running off the battery. It also takes power to restart the engine. Whatever charge you've used from the battery, you will use extra fuel to charge it back. Take into consideration how much fuel your car takes while idling and how much time you spend waiting at traffic lights. If the waits are long enough, the engine will be started before you start to move again. I barely spend time waiting for the green light. How much do you? 7 miles is a rather short journey. Start-stop only helps to save fuel under rather specific conditions. I'm not sure if it works this way but it's likely the car avoids charging the battery when idling if the battery is not too low. Ideally the car recovers energy to charge the battery when braking. If the battery were fully charged, you couldn't recover the energy to anywhere when braking.

There are several threads about this but none with much information. There's the rough road suspension kit. It probably consists of different springs, shocks and possibly a different front sway bar. Because how the internet works, you may ask and not receive an answer, but by posting wrong information someone will be much quicker to come to correct you. Would be nice if someone knowledgeable happened to come and shed some light on this topic. There's also the Superb Outdoor (Superb equivalent of the Octavia Scout, just much rarer), but it may not even have a suspension package that's not available on the regular Superb. It might've just been an appearance option that few opted for. On top of that there's the Skoda Emergency Service Vehicle kit. That should even come with upgraded brakes, at least on some vehicles. Often people don't realize that the Superb has issues where other vehicles don't that have the same ground clearance because of the long wheelbase. ________ This is a picture from an Indian Superb review video off of YouTube. The cars there should come standard with the rough road package. Look at the space in those wheel wells. Does your car seem to have as much? It seems to have 16" wheels. Picture source: https://youtu.be/1zeaIfr_3p8

Mind sharing which corner of the internet you got them from?

At first I didn't know I had the tool in the trunk. Even knew what it looked like, just didn't notice it in a hole in the foam insert under the boot carpet. Found two tools with thin handles and pried the nut caps off. You could use two spoons or sticks from ice cream bars. Even two flat head screwdrivers would do the job, but ideally you'd find tools you can't accidentally scratch the wheels with.

The 1.4 petrol comes with the 288MM front discs, the 3.6 petrol with the 345MM front discs. All the other cars have the 312MM front discs. Some day half my posts will be about front brake disc sizes.