daveo138

Can’t help with identifying it, but I do remember looking at Skoda colours about eight or nine years ago, and mainland Europe had a much better range of colours than the UK did.

I've just had a look at the manual and there are two screws (self locking) which are torqued to 35 Nm, and it says "replace after each removal". There are two screws (carrier to hub bolts) torqued to 200 Nm, and it says "clean when using again".

I’m considering the same at the moment. The last time I fitted dedicated electrics was on a Passat, about 10 years ago. There were lots of wires to add to the fuse box and an ECU plug, IIRC. I was more flexible back then, my eyesight was better and the fuse box was more accessible than the Octavia. According to PF Jones’ website, a bypass relay can be used. I might go down that route.

If you have a look at the pinned threads above, there’s one entitled “The Mk3 Octavia TDI water pump thread” It’s quite a common problem. I bought my car five weeks ago and I’ve just had the water pump replaced. It’s worth checking the service history for timing belt/water pump replacement and factor that in when negotiating.

There was a 3-month warranty from the dealer, but I purchased a 12-month warranty for £260, which was well worth it, plus I’ve got 11-months cover left in case anything else goes wrong.

I don't seem to be able to add coolant temperature as an option. I have now had the water pump replaced under warranty. The warranty covered the cost of the pump and labour. I paid the extra for a timing belt kit.

Good point about Varta and Bosch. When I had a Rover 75, I replaced the Bosch battery with a Varta from Tayna. As you can see from the photo, the casings are identical. There is also a discount code for Tayna for a 5% discount - NUMBER27YT

The EFB was in the old Superb. The 10 year old battery is AGM. Probably wasn’t clear from my original post, but I knew what I meant 😁

Thanks for that. Very helpful. I've just checked the negative terminal and it's stamped 05-15, so end of January. The car was registered on 3rd March 15, so it would appear to be original. I will give it a charge tomorrow, as it isn't being used much at the moment. In fact it hasn't been used much since the last owner traded it in last August. The battery seems to be holding up well, as the start-stop seems to work whenever I forget to turn it off 😀

Hi Sean We might need some more information, or maybe a photo or two.

I see that your terminal cover has moved from the negative to the positive. It does seem to be a bit counter-intuitive, but I think they put it on the negative to stop you connecting anything to it. That's the reason I originally photographed my Superb battery (other thread), as I was surprised to see the positive terminal with no protection.

I had a 2019 Superb 3 (company car) which came with a Varta battery. I’ve just found a photo of it. Edit: I've just checked the Octavia and that has a Varta AGM fitted, which has the appearance of OEM fitment, rather than aftermarket. I don't know if it's original, as I've only had the car a matter of weeks. Can I check the serial number with OBDeleven?

I used to get some weird messages about why S/S wasn't working on a Superb 3 that I used to have. Not much help, more for entertainment. 😀

I had my glovebox out this afternoon, as I wanted to check the pollen/cabin filter. The side panel came off without the aid of a screwdriver. I just got several fingernails under it, using both hands and it just pulled off. I couldn't see the rod, although I could see the bar it hooks over and the keyhole in the side of the glovebox. When I got the glovebox out, I found the brake rod rattling around inside. It was obviously too much trouble for the last person that was in there to refit it. 🙄

There’s always the possibility that stop/start has been disabled, using OBDeleven or similar, although that wouldn’t give you the ‘high consumption’ message AFAIK.

Thanks, I obviously misunderstood the question. 🙋‍♂️

Certainly on my car, the driver's side is 24" long, but the passenger side only 18".

Do you not have any local motor factors?

I found the option on mine this morning...just after doing a hard reset to restore functionality. I had to reset it twice, as when I tried NAV it hung again. FW update imminent.

I have found this to be the case, particularly with cars that regulate the speed more closely.

Here's a screenshot from the video...

I was thinking CV joint, too. I had a problem some years ago, with a Passat. I was driving on the motorway when the car in front swerved, before driving over a loading ramp from a recovery truck. I drove over it too, but I didn’t lose two tyres like the other guy. He pulled onto the hard shoulder to join a number of other drivers and the driver of the recovery truck. Like you, I thought I’d got away with it, but I noticed I was suffering from a vibration, similar to a wheel balance problem. I had wheels balanced and then tyres replaced, to no avail. The car went in to the VW dealer, who had it for six weeks, but didn’t find what was causing it. They never did get to the bottom of it, but I was convinced it was driveshaft/CV joint related.

I ran a scan yesterday, but there were no water pump related faults showing.

I've just been out for a road test, to see if I could replicate the problem, using OBDeleven live data to see what the temperature was. It took about five miles for the gauge to reach 90°, although the live data reading was only 78° at that point. All subsequent temperatures are from live data, as the gauge never moved off 90°. Over the next three or four miles, the temperature went up gradually until it reached 106°. It then dropped reasonably quickly to 90/91, then for the rest of the journey it cycled between 92 and 97°, presumably as the thermostat opened and closed. Not very conclusive, as I don't know at what temperature the water pump sleeve does its thing. It would be interesting to know what the actual temperature was on Saturday, when the gauge reached 110°.

Thanks for that, very interesting. The car is 2015 with 55k miles.