daveo138

Are these engines known for getting blocked pick-up pipes/strainers? I know my neighbour had an Audi TT 1.8T which had a badly blocked pick-up. If it is likely to be an issue, I’ll drop my sump and sort it before it’s too late.

The OP hasn't visited since October '24, so you may not get a response. As has been said, worth a search to see how successful others have been. I believe this is quite a common fault.

I'm in North Derbyshire, otherwise I could have helped. I have OBDeleven. I doubt that you could use a generic scanner/code reader unless it's very high-end.

Whereabouts are you?

I think you can also rule out the weather. My fuel consumption reduced noticeably in the spring, when the temperature started to increase.

I'm no expert on multi-link suspension - I don't have it on mine - but it looks to me like you would adjust the camber first, using the bolt on the inner end of your new transverse arm, then the toe afterwards, using the other bolt on the track control arm.

Duly noted. 👍

I do have a bit of a strange smell in my car, after using the air con. I have used a ‘bomb’ in the past, but it didn’t really work. I have a foam spray cleaner, but I’ve read that it shouldn’t be sprayed through the vents, only up through the drain hole. I have yet to locate the drain hole (Octavia).

I'm using my father's 1970s Halfords ramps. I made some wooden adaptors which I use together with some other blocks of wood. The photo shows my other half's Rover 25, but they work equally well with the Octavia.

You can reset the service indicator without a code reader - search YouTube - although it’s always worth having something that will tell you if there’s a problem with your car. I have OBDeleven, which is particularly useful.

I doubt it’s the bulb, as you would still get the telltale light on the dash. I would start with the fuse.

It seems you are not alone. This thread is from a couple of weeks ago.

I'd be inclined to wire brush it, treat it with a rust converter and paint it, or Waxoyl it.

I used some Jif, or Cif as they now call it. I also used it on the rubbers around the rear side windows (estate). Worked a treat.

If you look at the top of the negative battery terminal post, you can see the numbers 50 and 18. I believe that dates it to week 50 of 2018, so it looks like the original battery. They do seem to last quite well. I replaced my original battery last year at ten years old.

A valid point. Even BL cars of the ‘70s had an amber oil pressure warning light which would come on with the ignition and go off when oil pressure had built up.

Welcome to the forum. A tip for refitting the glovebox - you can use a piece of duct tape to hold the damper arm in position and then peel it off once it’s in place.

Does the driver’s handbook not have the procedure for re syncing the key? When I bought my car, the spare key wouldn’t do anything, but following the instructions in the handbook, I got it to re-sync. Mine isn’t KESSY, but I’m sure there is likely to be a similar procedure.

It’s difficult to say without seeing it in situ and seeing what access you have. Any chance of a photo?

I’m not sure why a rocker cover should be so hard to get hold of. Are you looking for new or second hand? Can it be repaired? How old is the car?

Yes, it would work with two fuse taps, or just a suitable spade connector for the cigarette lighter fuse end. That’s what I did.

Has it ever worked while you’ve owned it?

Tayna Batteries supply either a Bosch or Varta (essentially the same battery) for less than £120. I can also find you a 5% discount code, if you’re interested. https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/a7/ Edit: this is the discount code - NUMBER27YT

Are you considering a manual gearbox or DSG?

That’s interesting. I have the same fault code on my step-daughter’s Audi. I don’t know if there is an option within OBDeleven to recalibrate it, or whether I need VCDS.