daveo138

I don't seem to be able to add coolant temperature as an option. I have now had the water pump replaced under warranty. The warranty covered the cost of the pump and labour. I paid the extra for a timing belt kit.

Good point about Varta and Bosch. When I had a Rover 75, I replaced the Bosch battery with a Varta from Tayna. As you can see from the photo, the casings are identical. There is also a discount code for Tayna for a 5% discount - NUMBER27YT

The EFB was in the old Superb. The 10 year old battery is AGM. Probably wasn’t clear from my original post, but I knew what I meant 😁

Thanks for that. Very helpful. I've just checked the negative terminal and it's stamped 05-15, so end of January. The car was registered on 3rd March 15, so it would appear to be original. I will give it a charge tomorrow, as it isn't being used much at the moment. In fact it hasn't been used much since the last owner traded it in last August. The battery seems to be holding up well, as the start-stop seems to work whenever I forget to turn it off 😀

Hi Sean We might need some more information, or maybe a photo or two.

I see that your terminal cover has moved from the negative to the positive. It does seem to be a bit counter-intuitive, but I think they put it on the negative to stop you connecting anything to it. That's the reason I originally photographed my Superb battery (other thread), as I was surprised to see the positive terminal with no protection.

I had a 2019 Superb 3 (company car) which came with a Varta battery. I’ve just found a photo of it. Edit: I've just checked the Octavia and that has a Varta AGM fitted, which has the appearance of OEM fitment, rather than aftermarket. I don't know if it's original, as I've only had the car a matter of weeks. Can I check the serial number with OBDeleven?

I used to get some weird messages about why S/S wasn't working on a Superb 3 that I used to have. Not much help, more for entertainment. 😀

I had my glovebox out this afternoon, as I wanted to check the pollen/cabin filter. The side panel came off without the aid of a screwdriver. I just got several fingernails under it, using both hands and it just pulled off. I couldn't see the rod, although I could see the bar it hooks over and the keyhole in the side of the glovebox. When I got the glovebox out, I found the brake rod rattling around inside. It was obviously too much trouble for the last person that was in there to refit it. 🙄

There’s always the possibility that stop/start has been disabled, using OBDeleven or similar, although that wouldn’t give you the ‘high consumption’ message AFAIK.

Thanks, I obviously misunderstood the question. 🙋‍♂️

Certainly on my car, the driver's side is 24" long, but the passenger side only 18".

Do you not have any local motor factors?

I found the option on mine this morning...just after doing a hard reset to restore functionality. I had to reset it twice, as when I tried NAV it hung again. FW update imminent.

I have found this to be the case, particularly with cars that regulate the speed more closely.

Here's a screenshot from the video...

I was thinking CV joint, too. I had a problem some years ago, with a Passat. I was driving on the motorway when the car in front swerved, before driving over a loading ramp from a recovery truck. I drove over it too, but I didn’t lose two tyres like the other guy. He pulled onto the hard shoulder to join a number of other drivers and the driver of the recovery truck. Like you, I thought I’d got away with it, but I noticed I was suffering from a vibration, similar to a wheel balance problem. I had wheels balanced and then tyres replaced, to no avail. The car went in to the VW dealer, who had it for six weeks, but didn’t find what was causing it. They never did get to the bottom of it, but I was convinced it was driveshaft/CV joint related.

I ran a scan yesterday, but there were no water pump related faults showing.

I've just been out for a road test, to see if I could replicate the problem, using OBDeleven live data to see what the temperature was. It took about five miles for the gauge to reach 90°, although the live data reading was only 78° at that point. All subsequent temperatures are from live data, as the gauge never moved off 90°. Over the next three or four miles, the temperature went up gradually until it reached 106°. It then dropped reasonably quickly to 90/91, then for the rest of the journey it cycled between 92 and 97°, presumably as the thermostat opened and closed. Not very conclusive, as I don't know at what temperature the water pump sleeve does its thing. It would be interesting to know what the actual temperature was on Saturday, when the gauge reached 110°.

Thanks for that, very interesting. The car is 2015 with 55k miles.

Collected my new car yesterday and went straight to the fuel station, as it was running on fumes. I fuelled up for the 100 mile journey home and set off. After a few miles I was on a dual carriageway, so I set cruise control at just over 60. The next thing I knew, the temperature gauge was heading north of 90 and I watched as it made its way up to 110. I pulled into a lay-by and left the engine running, and the gauge went down to 90 again. At this point, I was wondering if I should phone the garage or not. Anyway, I set off again and the gauge stayed firmly on 90 for the rest of the journey. This morning, I ran the VAG-DPF app to see what the state of the DPF was. It said that the last regen was 143km ago, which is about 90 miles. So, the question (finally) - does the engine coolant temperature increase when a regen is happening? It looks like the increase in temperature reading was about the same time as the regen was happening.

Quick update to this thread, as I got my ‘new’ car today and when I got home, I found that one remote key didn’t work. The working key was very shiny and well worn, whereas the other one looked like it had never been used. I first replaced the battery, but no joy. I then found this thread, which gave me a few pointers, but I also had a look in the driver’s handbook and found the key synchronisation procedure. Remove the cover from the lock cylinder on the driver’s door, press one of the buttons on the key, then unlock the door within one minute. When I opened the door, the alarm went off, so I shut the door again, locked and unlocked with the remote and it all works. 👍

Until about two years ago, VAG UK recommendation was 5 years or xx,000 miles, so a ten year old car could feasibly have had two cam belts. The new recommendation is 140,000 miles with no time limit.

2.0 TDI DSG with 55k, has printouts from Skoda dealer, DSG oil changed last year, but doesn’t appear to have had a cam belt.

As I'm picking up my new (used) car on Saturday, I'm looking into warranty options. The dealer offers 3 months, saying to bring it back to them. They also offer extended warranties, but I've googled their warranty company and they don't get very good reviews. Does anyone have any experience of, or recommendations for after-market warranties? Thanks