daveo138

Mine is a 2015 and it does have the sticker in the boot.

Glad you got it sorted, but would have thought they would know they needed to do the reset after a new clutch.

Nigel Just tried your link and it's not working. Tried searching for battery charger and it only give results for Parkside tools ☹️ Dave (O)

You could try this VIN decoder from eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226517872578 Costs €3 and runs to about 6 pages (pdf). It should tell you all about your car.

Those screws aren’t just holding the dust shield on, they appear to be securing the axle stud. Even if you removed the dust shield, you would still need to replace the screws, or your rear wheel would fall off. You don’t need 4-off M10 screws just for a dust shield. 😉

I recently replaced the original 10 year old battery in my car. I didn’t seem to be having any issues with stop/start, but I was getting the odd random fault message - I can’t remember what - but I also had an issue with warm starting. It was fine starting from cold, but when starting it from warm, occasionally it would fire up OK, but when I released the key it would cut out. Replaced the battery and it’s all good now.

Wow. Was it bought from a Skoda main dealer?

Having it fitted the wrong way round would explain why the dashcam loses power when the other fuse blows, but not why the fuse is blowing.

The fuses should be in parallel, if the fuse tap has been fitted the right way round. It sounds like yours is the wrong way round. There is another thread about this running at the moment. Have a look further down the list. Are you using the lighter socket?

What is that supposed to mean? I was stating a fact. Get over it.

If you're using an empty slot, it doesn't matter if there is only one connection. That's what I did and it works fine as long as the tap is correctly orientated.

When I fitted my dashcam, I just picked an empty fuse socket that had an ignition switched supply. As it was unused, it only had one terminal, so I knew which way to fit the fuse tap.

I used one of these about 15 years ago and it seems to work OK. The missus' Rover had an advisory on the last MoT for both CV boots, so I was thinking of using them again. Having spoken to a friend about it at the weekend, he advised against it.

That's some thread!

It’s not the booming noise that occurs when driving with a rear window open, is it?

One of mine doesn’t always retract after use. I’m guessing it’s going to be a bumper off job?

I presume you have raised rails rather than the flush rails in the picture. The load will be transferred to the mountings at each end, so it shouldn’t really matter too much, unless you are carrying something which is particularly heavy. The handbook should state the maximum load allowed. With my Halfords roofbox, the mountings are a fixed distance apart, so there isn’t much choice, except a bit of fore and aft movement. When I had a Passat with flush rails, I used to fit the bars fairly close to the B and C pillars.

@pab567 might be able to advise.

Is it all good?

I had the same. The damper arm was just rattling around inside the bottom of the glovebox. I'm guessing whoever changed the pollen filter last time, couldn't be bothered to refit it. I had mine out yesterday and followed someone else's advice about using some gaffer tape to stop the damper arm from escaping when refitting. 👍

If the RH cluster works when connected to the LH side, it would point to an issue with the LH cluster.

Quick update: I fitted a new battery nearly three weeks ago and haven't experienced any more issues, so I'm hoping that's all it was.

Where did you locate the stands?

Just spotted this post. Sounds familiar.

Here's a video with a description of the issue, repair and part numbers of the two different versions. !! SOLVED !! Audi VW Gear Selector Fault B1162 29 Park Position Lock Switch