daveo138

Glad to hear you got it sorted. Nightmare scenario, like a failed door lock in the closed position.

My sister has a Renault Captur 1.5 dci which was zero rated, but now costs £20. I think it changed in April.

You would only really do it as a precaution if you had the gearbox off for some other reason.

Sorry, only just seen this. PM sent.

I don’t have VCDS. I do have OBDeleven, which I believe can prime the fuel system after changing the fuel filter, for example.

Out of interest, should we avoid this VAG specialist? I’m also in Derbys.

Aren’t Carparts4less the same company as ECP? I bought all four discs plus pads (Brembo) from Autodoc for about £180, for my 2.0 tdi.

This seems to be a common problem with tyres, these days. Something to do with what manufacturers have been told they aren’t allowed to put into the mix anymore. On a Rover forum that I frequent, there are a lot of complaints about Avon tyres. I’m wondering what brand to get when the time comes.

Good find. Thanks for the heads up.

I’d be interested to know how you get on, as I’m trying to decide to fit a bypass relay or dedicated wiring…or get someone else to install it. I’m not as flexible as I used to be ☹️

My 2015 does. If you’re on a slope, you take your foot off the brake and it will hold for something like four seconds while you put your foot on the loud pedal.

I bought a similar kit from eBay and it worked a treat. Rather than pushing fluid back into the master cylinder, I prefer to crack open the bleed nipple as I’m winding the piston back.

Mine is a 2015 and it does have the sticker in the boot.

Glad you got it sorted, but would have thought they would know they needed to do the reset after a new clutch.

Nigel Just tried your link and it's not working. Tried searching for battery charger and it only give results for Parkside tools ☹️ Dave (O)

You could try this VIN decoder from eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226517872578 Costs €3 and runs to about 6 pages (pdf). It should tell you all about your car.

Those screws aren’t just holding the dust shield on, they appear to be securing the axle stud. Even if you removed the dust shield, you would still need to replace the screws, or your rear wheel would fall off. You don’t need 4-off M10 screws just for a dust shield. 😉

I recently replaced the original 10 year old battery in my car. I didn’t seem to be having any issues with stop/start, but I was getting the odd random fault message - I can’t remember what - but I also had an issue with warm starting. It was fine starting from cold, but when starting it from warm, occasionally it would fire up OK, but when I released the key it would cut out. Replaced the battery and it’s all good now.

Wow. Was it bought from a Skoda main dealer?

Having it fitted the wrong way round would explain why the dashcam loses power when the other fuse blows, but not why the fuse is blowing.

The fuses should be in parallel, if the fuse tap has been fitted the right way round. It sounds like yours is the wrong way round. There is another thread about this running at the moment. Have a look further down the list. Are you using the lighter socket?

What is that supposed to mean? I was stating a fact. Get over it.

If you're using an empty slot, it doesn't matter if there is only one connection. That's what I did and it works fine as long as the tap is correctly orientated.

When I fitted my dashcam, I just picked an empty fuse socket that had an ignition switched supply. As it was unused, it only had one terminal, so I knew which way to fit the fuse tap.

I used one of these about 15 years ago and it seems to work OK. The missus' Rover had an advisory on the last MoT for both CV boots, so I was thinking of using them again. Having spoken to a friend about it at the weekend, he advised against it.