daveo138

That's some thread!

It’s not the booming noise that occurs when driving with a rear window open, is it?

One of mine doesn’t always retract after use. I’m guessing it’s going to be a bumper off job?

I presume you have raised rails rather than the flush rails in the picture. The load will be transferred to the mountings at each end, so it shouldn’t really matter too much, unless you are carrying something which is particularly heavy. The handbook should state the maximum load allowed. With my Halfords roofbox, the mountings are a fixed distance apart, so there isn’t much choice, except a bit of fore and aft movement. When I had a Passat with flush rails, I used to fit the bars fairly close to the B and C pillars.

@pab567 might be able to advise.

Is it all good?

I had the same. The damper arm was just rattling around inside the bottom of the glovebox. I'm guessing whoever changed the pollen filter last time, couldn't be bothered to refit it. I had mine out yesterday and followed someone else's advice about using some gaffer tape to stop the damper arm from escaping when refitting. 👍

If the RH cluster works when connected to the LH side, it would point to an issue with the LH cluster.

Quick update: I fitted a new battery nearly three weeks ago and haven't experienced any more issues, so I'm hoping that's all it was.

Where did you locate the stands?

Just spotted this post. Sounds familiar.

Here's a video with a description of the issue, repair and part numbers of the two different versions. !! SOLVED !! Audi VW Gear Selector Fault B1162 29 Park Position Lock Switch

It's possible you are loosing the earth/ground as all those things stopped working. It might be worth having a look at the wiring loom where it goes into the tailgate. I recently had a problem with my OH's Rover 25. It's quite a problem on them. The wiring had started to break down - the insulation was cracked and some of the conductors were starting to break...and possibly short with each other. I repaired the loom with some suitably coloured wires from an old 1970s MGB loom, which were a lot more flexible than the Rover's wires.

I'm going to take mine off to tidy it up, as it should be easier to work on, on the bench. I had a new Superb a few years ago, as a company car. I took it in for a service and when I picked it up, they said they had fitted a new one under warranty. I hadn't even mentioned it when I took it in.

This is from the Golf Haynes manual. The camshaft position sensor is located at the front of the cylinder head. Remove the fuel line bracket bolts and move the fuel line to the side. Disconnect the sensor wiring plug connector and remove the sensor retaining bolt. Remove the sensor.

Curiously, I have just changed my battery (see below), but I didn't need to reset the windows. It did, however, throw up lots of other errors, as expected.

I think I will try another battery anyway, as this is the original and ten years old. When I checked it yesterday, it was only showing 12.1v, and when cranking, it appeared to drop to 8v, although it only cranked for about one second before starting.

That is something I had considered, but I wouldn’t have expected stop/start to be operating if the battery was struggling. Also, it doesn’t struggle to turn over, it’s the fact that it fires then cuts out that is puzzling.

2.0 TDI (DSG) CKFC engine. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on a starting issue I've been experiencing. It's happened maybe five or six times in the last six weeks, although I don't drive it every day. It only seems to happen when it's warm, not when starting from cold. This morning, I drove about 10 miles into town, parked for about 90 minutes, and when I came to restart, it took three attempts. It turns over and fires, but then stops instantly. I then drove a short distance to another location, where I stopped for about 20 minutes. It then started fine, but when leaving the car park, the traffic lights on the exit turned to red and stop/start kicked in. When the lights changed, I took my foot off the brake, the engine fired then instantly stopped. Put my foot back on the brake, released it and the engine started. That's the first time I've noticed it with stop/start, but I quite often disable it, so it's not really representative of what it does. On the other occasions when it has failed to warm-start (on the key), it normally starts on the third attempt. I've done an OBDeleven scan, but that hasn't shown anything. I was hoping someone has seen this before and could possibly give me an idea of where to start investigating. Thanks.

I considered a 1.6 DSG, but the one that I test drove felt like it had a gearbox issue. It also felt a little underpowered. I ended up buying a 2.0, which I think was a better bet, and still £35 road tax.

I've just replaced my coolant reservoir, as it had 'Mit Silikat' on it. I bought a Febi-Bilstein branded reservoir from Parts in Motion for £20 including postage. https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/febi-coolant-expansion-tank-103446-detail I could have bought one from Aliexpress for about £8, but I thought PIM would be a safer bet if I had a problem. I would hazard a guess that the Aliexpress part is probably the same item. My original reservoir was the double-walled version, part number 5Q0121407A, which was made in January 2015, the same as my car. It didn’t look like there was room for the tea bag in the inner chamber, so I’m guessing the ‘silickat’ is in the outer chamber. The coolant was replaced recently when I had the water pump and timing belt replaced, so it should be good for some time.

...or if you're feeling flush, get two.

If the dealer is not being particularly cooperative, I’d be inclined to walk away.

That does look a bit worrying. Has it lived near the sea?

I believe that they also work on Toyota and BMW now, too.