daveo138

It's possible you are loosing the earth/ground as all those things stopped working. It might be worth having a look at the wiring loom where it goes into the tailgate. I recently had a problem with my OH's Rover 25. It's quite a problem on them. The wiring had started to break down - the insulation was cracked and some of the conductors were starting to break...and possibly short with each other. I repaired the loom with some suitably coloured wires from an old 1970s MGB loom, which were a lot more flexible than the Rover's wires.

I'm going to take mine off to tidy it up, as it should be easier to work on, on the bench. I had a new Superb a few years ago, as a company car. I took it in for a service and when I picked it up, they said they had fitted a new one under warranty. I hadn't even mentioned it when I took it in.

This is from the Golf Haynes manual. The camshaft position sensor is located at the front of the cylinder head. Remove the fuel line bracket bolts and move the fuel line to the side. Disconnect the sensor wiring plug connector and remove the sensor retaining bolt. Remove the sensor.

Curiously, I have just changed my battery (see below), but I didn't need to reset the windows. It did, however, throw up lots of other errors, as expected.

I think I will try another battery anyway, as this is the original and ten years old. When I checked it yesterday, it was only showing 12.1v, and when cranking, it appeared to drop to 8v, although it only cranked for about one second before starting.

That is something I had considered, but I wouldn’t have expected stop/start to be operating if the battery was struggling. Also, it doesn’t struggle to turn over, it’s the fact that it fires then cuts out that is puzzling.

2.0 TDI (DSG) CKFC engine. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on a starting issue I've been experiencing. It's happened maybe five or six times in the last six weeks, although I don't drive it every day. It only seems to happen when it's warm, not when starting from cold. This morning, I drove about 10 miles into town, parked for about 90 minutes, and when I came to restart, it took three attempts. It turns over and fires, but then stops instantly. I then drove a short distance to another location, where I stopped for about 20 minutes. It then started fine, but when leaving the car park, the traffic lights on the exit turned to red and stop/start kicked in. When the lights changed, I took my foot off the brake, the engine fired then instantly stopped. Put my foot back on the brake, released it and the engine started. That's the first time I've noticed it with stop/start, but I quite often disable it, so it's not really representative of what it does. On the other occasions when it has failed to warm-start (on the key), it normally starts on the third attempt. I've done an OBDeleven scan, but that hasn't shown anything. I was hoping someone has seen this before and could possibly give me an idea of where to start investigating. Thanks.

I considered a 1.6 DSG, but the one that I test drove felt like it had a gearbox issue. It also felt a little underpowered. I ended up buying a 2.0, which I think was a better bet, and still £35 road tax.

I've just replaced my coolant reservoir, as it had 'Mit Silikat' on it. I bought a Febi-Bilstein branded reservoir from Parts in Motion for £20 including postage. https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/febi-coolant-expansion-tank-103446-detail I could have bought one from Aliexpress for about £8, but I thought PIM would be a safer bet if I had a problem. I would hazard a guess that the Aliexpress part is probably the same item. My original reservoir was the double-walled version, part number 5Q0121407A, which was made in January 2015, the same as my car. It didn’t look like there was room for the tea bag in the inner chamber, so I’m guessing the ‘silickat’ is in the outer chamber. The coolant was replaced recently when I had the water pump and timing belt replaced, so it should be good for some time.

...or if you're feeling flush, get two.

If the dealer is not being particularly cooperative, I’d be inclined to walk away.

That does look a bit worrying. Has it lived near the sea?

I believe that they also work on Toyota and BMW now, too.

I’ve had quite a few VAG cars and I’ve always thought it was two hours, too. You can reset it, if you need to.

Nigel Some of us prefer ancient technologies 😄

Sounds weird, but here goes... 2.0 TDI DSG Yesterday morning I set off up the M1. After about 10 miles, I got a TPMS warning for the LH rear tyre. It was only about a mile to the next services, so I headed for there in order to check the pressures. I checked both rear tyres and the LH one was about 0.5psi more than the RH. I thought this was a bit odd, but I reset the pressures in the 'car' menu and went to drive off. I turned the key to start and the engine fired, but stopped immediately. I tried again and it did the same thing. I then turned the ignition off, turned it back on and it started fine and has been OK since. Now, thinking about the tyre, I hadn't parked in my usual spot on Sunday, as I'd needed access to the driveway. Where I parked meant that the LH rear tyre was in full sun for a couple of hours on Monday morning. My thinking is that the pressure in that tyre increased due to the heat and then was reducing slowly as I drove. Feasible? As to the starting issue, I haven't a clue. I did an OBDeleven scan this morning, but I couldn't see anything obvious. Any ideas?

Also, it’s for MIB2.

I would think, judging by the size of your screen (tiny), it's MIB1.

I don't like to disagree, but if Skoda are saying that they can be re-used, they aren't stretch or 'torque to yield' bolts.

Here's the bypass relay... Towbar Universal Electrics Bypass Relay

Can’t help with identifying it, but I do remember looking at Skoda colours about eight or nine years ago, and mainland Europe had a much better range of colours than the UK did.

I've just had a look at the manual and there are two screws (self locking) which are torqued to 35 Nm, and it says "replace after each removal". There are two screws (carrier to hub bolts) torqued to 200 Nm, and it says "clean when using again".

I’m considering the same at the moment. The last time I fitted dedicated electrics was on a Passat, about 10 years ago. There were lots of wires to add to the fuse box and an ECU plug, IIRC. I was more flexible back then, my eyesight was better and the fuse box was more accessible than the Octavia. According to PF Jones’ website, a bypass relay can be used. I might go down that route.

If you have a look at the pinned threads above, there’s one entitled “The Mk3 Octavia TDI water pump thread” It’s quite a common problem. I bought my car five weeks ago and I’ve just had the water pump replaced. It’s worth checking the service history for timing belt/water pump replacement and factor that in when negotiating.

There was a 3-month warranty from the dealer, but I purchased a 12-month warranty for £260, which was well worth it, plus I’ve got 11-months cover left in case anything else goes wrong.