automass

I did compare among Jeep Compass, Vauxhall Grandland and MG HS. It seems MG HS come on the top.. Does anyone have any idea about Citroen C5, Renault, Peugeot?

I am a big fan of Skoda but sadly it is time to move on to SUV.. i have sold my car (Octavia MK3) yesterday. We had 6yrs of good memory with the car. I really love my car and never cut corner when it cames to maintain.. So guy came ro view and ended up taking it. So it jist jappened wotjout plan.. I am wondering what car shall i go to now. My must have features: SUV, Petro PHEV, Economical while on motorway, adaptive cruise control, auto high beam assist etc.. MG PHEV TROPHY is one in consideration.

Sorry to revive an old thread rather than starting a new one, but I’ve just noticed something similar and wanted to see if anyone else has come across it. On mine the front gaps aren’t the usual ~5mm difference mentioned earlier – they’re closer to 12mm, which feels a bit unusual. I honestly never noticed when it started, but I’m fairly sure when the shocks/dampers and coil springs were replaced there wasn’t any noticeable gap difference at that time. N.B: Measurement was taken in a multistorey car park to ensure a level surface. Tyre pressures are the same on both fronts, tread depth is very similar, and both tyres are the same size (225/45 R17). Has anyone else experienced this, or is my car just being quirky?

Quick update for everyone who replied – I managed to get a garage guy to temporarily sort the washer fluid issue. He opened up the inner wheel arch liner to access the expansion tank for the washer reservoir, unplugged the hose feeding the headlight washer and clamped it off before refitting. He topped up the tank and now there’s no more leaking – plus the windscreen washers are working perfectly again. He advised me not to operate the headlight washers until the new nozzle is fitted. But as we know the headlight washers on these cars only work when the dipped beam headlights are on, and then only once every five windscreen washer activations. So for now, I just need to make sure I don’t wash the screen with the headlights on, or I could trigger them accidentally. Does anyone know how to disable headlight washer by the way? To tidy things up and stop water getting in, I’ve used double-sided tape to stick the headlight washer cover back in place where it popped out, and put clear cello tape over the fog light lens – partly to seal it from water and partly to stop it breaking further until I replace it. At least the car’s now usable for the trip without losing all the washer fluid – thanks to everyone for the tips so far!

That's something confused me as well. But believe me all the fluid id is drained out and giving me warning to top up. Wiper and other side of headlight washer work good. I did try two times with the wipers.. Don't know if it caused to drain out all or not. Nothing i can see got damaged other than fog light and headlight washer jet spray.. Impact was gentle that i was almost not getting out of the car untill someone said that i had damage on the front and part came off.

Hi all, What a nightmare I’m having! Not sure if I’m just unlucky, but it feels like every time I go abroad, something goes wrong. Yesterday, while attempting a tight 3-point turn, I bumped my car into a low railing. The aftermath: Fog light smashed A few dents, bends and scratches on the bodywork Most importantly – the offside headlight washer jet nozzle popped off completely, and all the washer fluid drained out. I was absolutely gutted when I saw it, especially as we’ve got guests coming from abroad and we’re heading to Europe for a holiday this Saturday (via Dover–Calais ferry). I managed to pick up the pop-up spray cover – that seems fine – but the barrel/nozzle underneath has either snapped or come loose. I’ve been to a few garages, but they’re all fully booked (classic timing, right?). A mate suggested getting the original Skoda part (which I’ve now ordered) and said the fix is basically just attaching the new nozzle to the pipe and reconnecting the cover. The catch? The front bumper needs to come off to do the job. He’s offered to put the car on a ramp and block the pipe to stop any leaks, so I can at least use the windscreen washer for the drive up to Scandinavia. Then after the holiday, I can get the bodywork sorted and have the nozzle properly fitted at the same time. I’ve tried scouring YouTube for videos on replacing this barrel-type offside headlight washer nozzle, but no luck so far. My questions: Is this something I could realistically fit myself if I remove the bumper? Has anyone done this before and can share tips or a guide? Any advice for a quick temporary fix for the trip, so the windscreen washer still works? I can tackle the fog light replacement later myself – it’s this washer nozzle that’s stressing me out right now. Thanks in advance for any help or tips!

After replacing the ARB links on both front wheels, the noise is pretty much gone now. There's still a slight rattle from a panel or something, but it's nothing major – totally bearable.

Massive thanks to everyone who chipped in with their thoughts—really appreciate the input! Had the car checked over at a garage, and they went through all the suspension components and bushes while it was up on the ramp. No obvious faults were found, and apparently, the noise isn’t coming from the bonnet latch or any of the other suggestions put forward here. The garage lads were stumped, so I decided to take matters into my own hands. Started pushing down on the front right side to side to replicate the noise and that’s when I finally heard the clicking noise. The more pressure I applied, the more it made that exact sound I’ve been talking about. Back on the ramp for round two, this time with an even more thorough check. But still—nothing. In the end, they just told me to drive it until it gets worse. Not exactly reassuring, considering most of the suspension components are new. So, here’s the big question—how on earth do I pinpoint the dodgy part? Anyone got a trick up their sleeve for this sort of thing? Cheers again for all the help!

Listened to your video. Your noise sounds more engine-related. Mine’s more of a bonnet-area rattle when the car is rolling at low speeds. Could be something loose or knocking against a panel.

Nice points picked up. you are a genius. I didn’t even think about some of these! Bonnet latch could definitely be a suspect, I’ll check that. Drop links are fairly new, and the radiator feels solid. fan is bit shaky, but i don't think it is coming from radiator fan. The noise doesn’t happen when stationary, even if I bounce the car or rock the engine, but only when rolling at low speed or bumpy road, definitely. Could be something knocking around under the bonne.

Yeah, it happens when the car is rolling, but it’s not linked to revs. Even if I just let the car coast at low speed, I get this rattling ‘dheng dheng’ sound from the bonnet area.

Yeah, it’s definitely not engine-related. The noise only happens when the car is moving, even at slow speeds like 5-10mph. I’ll try to get a recording if i can.

Yes, the MIB1 multimedia unit in your Mk3 Octavia is coded to the car, so simply swapping it out with another unit won't work straight away. You'll need to get the replacement component protection removed and recoded using ODIS (dealer software) or a specialist with the right tools. Regarding the serial numbers, the "S7E" and "SK7" prefixes might indicate different regional versions or hardware revisions. It’s best to match the part number exactly with your current unit to avoid compatibility issues. If you're upgrading from MIB1 to MIB2, you’ll also need a compatible screen, USB port, and possibly a new gateway module. If you’re just replacing a faulty MIB1 unit, try to get one from the same model year to make coding easier. Hope that helps – let us know how you get on! 👍

Mate, appreciate the input, but no need to get snarky. If someone’s genuinely interested in helping, they’ll ask if they need more details rather than having a dig. That’s how forums work, isn’t it? I’m not just here to get a definitive answer – I know no one can diagnose a car over the internet. But sometimes, someone with a similar issue might chime in with a useful clue, which could lead me in the right direction. That’s exactly why forums exist – to discuss, compare, and troubleshoot. If you’ve got any constructive ideas, I’m all ears. If not, maybe let the thread run its course – you never know who might have the missing piece of the puzzle.

Right, lads, I’m at my wit’s end with this one. I’ve had an ongoing knocking (deng deng) noise coming from under the bonnet on the driver’s side, and despite a few fixes, it’s still there! Here’s what’s been done so far: Front suspension mount replaced today – advised by Halfords Autocentre despite them being only 11 months old. Noise still exists. Track rod end was stuck, threads damaged, so it was replaced too. Timing belt was changed few months ago (6 to7months) – The noise is very obvious, happens even at slow rolling speeds, and feels like it’s coming from somewhere under the bonnet. Garage guy is struggling to pinpoint it, which is driving me nuts! What could it be? I’m thinking: Engine mount? Timing belt tensioner or pulley issue? Something loose in the aux belt system? Heat shield rattling? Appreciate any guesses or advice – need to get this sorted before I lose my mind! Cheers!

This banging and rattling noise is driving me mad! So, I booked my car in with Halfords, and after a thorough diagnosis, they reported that both front suspension mountings need replacing. The excessive noise while driving seems to be coming from those front strut mountings (not that old, mind you – they were replaced on 9th March 2024). They also mentioned that my cooler fan looks brand new but is missing its rubber damper. I’ve never had any work done on the radiator or the cooler fan, so this is all a bit confusing. The chap said it’s also rattling a bit and that I’ll need to get it refitted properly with the rubber housing. Does anyone know what a rubber housing is, and is it something I can DIY to make it fit properly? What parts would I need? For the strut top mounting, I’ve ordered Monroe. Fingers crossed this one does the job and finally stops the noise!

Finally managed to open both of them. It was right, hot is the proper time to open it. it was very easy to unscrew when it was hot. now time to give them a good clean. i think with engine degreaser or any other rust cleaner would be ideal to clean them.

my plan is just to give it a good clean and use it again. That's why I don't wanna damage it.

Split socket i bought from ECP (pic attached). I found it too long that my breaker bar (ratchet) wouldn't fit in the tight space. So I ordered other kit from B&Q. See pic. B&Q doesn't sto k them in the shop. They do deliver only. I thought i would be needing the smaller split socket so my ratcher bar can fit. while i was waiting for this kit from B&Q, I just wanted to try with pipe wrench.. Now the nut got damaged. Hence why, I was asking if anybody else had the similar issue removing this o2 sensor..and how did you do it.

Why on earth this o2 sensor too tight in my car.. I bought an 22mm especial socket from ecp to remove it, but no luck. I had special wrench (for metal pipe working). It just damaged the nut but didn't make it move. Used WD40, but no luck. Now ordered 'Autojack 5 Piece Oxygen Sensor Sockets & Thread Chaser Set' from B&Q for home delivery.. Don't know if this kit will be of any help to unscrew this............ senaor. There was nothing wrong with sensor. Just have decided to give it a little cleaning while waiting for New car batrery delivery. Recently consumption seems too high, someone suggested me tio give it a little cleaning.

Finally got around to replacing my heater matrix today! Found an exact video on YouTube that matched my car, and wow, it was a lifesaver. My original heater matrix was partially blocked, and now, with the new one swapped in, it’s blowing hot air like a champ! 🥶➡🔥 Had to remove the blower motor—just three Torx screws, so no big deal. But... I unnecessarily bent a clip too much and snapped it. 😩 Oh well, it’s still solid with the screws, so I’m not stressing over it. The only thing bugging me now is the heater matrix connections. The top one clips in (see pic), and the bottom one is a push-in with a ring clamp. Never seen this clip before! When pushing the bottom one in, I got that satisfying click, but the top one? Nothing. Then I realised the clip holds both parts tightly together. Hope I got it right! 🤞 Let’s see how it goes! Uploaded some pics—no video, though.

Guys, just wondering do I have to empty the coolant to replace the heater matrix. all the youtube videos i have watched they never showed about coolant being emptied. if yes then is there any drain plug for octavia mk3 (2017) to empty the coolant?

The heater matrix has arrived, along with a foam strip—guessing it's there for a snug, rattle-free fit! Now just waiting for a dry, sunny day to get this swap done. ☀️🔧🚗

Sounds like a solid plan! 👌 €226 for a genuine heater matrix is a decent find—hopefully, it arrives soon and does the trick. Nothing wrong with calling in a pro when needed. Some jobs are just better with an experienced set of hands! 🔧🔥 For me, I’d go for the cheapest option. I found one on Amazon for £90.78. Spoke to the sellerover the phone and they said, they source it from a reliable dealer. So the quality doesn’t seem compromised. My coolant was already flushed as a first step in diagnosing the issue. My mechanic showed me one of the hose pipes being colder than the other, which is how he pinpointed the heater matrix blockage. Did you try checking the hoses and feeling the temperature difference? Might help confirm the issue. 🤔🚗 N.B: I've checked the video. the part was given to me doesn't match with this one. My car is 67 plate (auto). Well, even if my part doesn't fit, at least i can give the old one a try unblocking with oneshot(haha) and then return the new part.