automass

Hi Everyone, I’m experiencing an issue with my car’s sound system, particularly with the rear left and front left speakers. A couple of days ago, the front left speaker started producing a vibrating and crackling noise along with the music or any audio from the car. To investigate, I used the fade option to isolate the sound to each corner of the car. Here’s what I found: Front Left Speaker: Vibrates and produces a crackling noise. Rear Left Speaker: Has a flat sound without any bass, but no crackling or vibration. Front Right and Rear Right Speakers: Both are working perfectly fine. During my inspection, I noticed that the front left air vent's slider was broken and broken pieces are lying around the vent. I initially thought the vibration might be coming from there, so I replaced the air vent with a new one. However, the vibration and crackling noise from the front left speaker persist. I partially removed the rear door card but couldn’t figure out how to disconnect the connector from the small speaker. I cleaned the speaker thoroughly, but unfortunately, it didn’t improve the sound quality. This whole situation is puzzling, especially since the sound system on the left side deteriorated so suddenly, and the front left vent’s slider broke without any physical contact. Additionally, the middle air vent on the passenger side now has a minor issue with sliding left and right, which wasn’t a problem before. Now, I need some advice and help from you all: How can I completely remove the door card? I need guidance on disconnecting the connectors, particularly for the top speakers. The bottom one is fairly straightforward (squeeze and pull out). How do I replace the speakers? They seem to be attached to the door using rivets. Any suggestions on how to remove and replace them would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi Tjalli, yes, they are the same fault codes. If you don't feel lose of power or anything. I suggest check any device connected like even your obd 11 device, dash cam, mobile charger etc..take them off and drive. I keep getting this false misfire whenever I have my OBD11 connected for few days . It could be due to car battery being weak as well.

Thanks ords. yes i checked the brake backing plate on the same day you mentioned gp73. nothing wrong was found in them. the sound i can hear now is most likely coming from wheel bearing. tonight when I was driving, the brake was really making squeaking noise (as if i have new brake pads installed). it was really making a lot of noise from the front left..I had to spray wd40 ( i didn't have brake cleaner spray with me). it stopps for few hours and then came back again. all the brake pads, disks (front and rear) have plenty of life left apart fron front disks. They are bit worn but still lots of life left in them. Anyway, tomorrow I'll hopefully get front left wheel bearing and shock mount replaced. Only things I didn't change as of now are track rod ends. my car is now on 119k mileage. is it advisable to replace them as well? i left it for the last as it is fairly easy to replace.

These are the parts i am going to replace tomorrow. Left shock mount (look at the pictures). They are quite different. Original one feels bit heavier than the new one. same one was set on the front right last week. And also left wheel bearing (febi). Feels really solid..

I wish if i could have done this before (as soon as I bought the car). I really don't understand why car makers do not consider including mud flaps. they are very essential, especially here in the UK. i saw some of my friend's cars have no mud flaps at all, but we are lucky in this regard that skoda does at leat rear mud flaps. anyway, I found an original skoda mud flaps for my car on ebay with very affrordable price (£25) and installed them. They look nice and probably I wouldn't see those muddy mark any more near the front tyre side. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etV9kse8kvs&t=204s

Hi, Can anyone educate me here please. I bought this shock's top mounting for ther front right of my octavia which looks quite different to mine. (Rubber connectiong in both parts of the new one, original one is metal connection to each other. so, my question is 1. Would it effect anyway in the car's performance? My car is not as smooth as it should be or as it was. i had the wheel bearing changerd as well in the front right. 2. Should i have to replace mounting as pair or it doesn't make lots of difference. 3. I haven't had any problem in the wheel bearing other than some clcicking noise while reversing the car by turning steering wheel left or right position. as the garage guy changed the mounting within couple of days wheel bearing got damaged and needed replaced. So wondering if this wrong mounting (for me at least) caused this damage and if it will cause more issue if i don't replace it with original one. please advise me as much as possible. Thank you.

Problem is never ending..full lock left if i keep on reverse the car, some point i can still hear metal grinding noise (very mild) as i keep on pressing the brake..and also driving on the road i feel the sound is NOT QUITE right yet. What else could I pay attention to?

Car is fixed with new wheel bearing..happy jappy..i can not see (visually) anything wrong with old one though.

I checked the backplate, couldn't find anything wrong. I swapped the wheels to determine for the wheel bearning. but no, still same sound and even worse now. It sounds to me the sound is coming from brake pads and rotors..but visually i can not see anything wrong in there.

Now I am having funny noise..it feels like I am in the plane (the sound is like that) Its whirring sound and when reversing the car for parking (all the way left), i can have some metal grinding sound coming from the front right (same wheel or side I had sound coming from initially). there is nothing wrong with steering wheel or no excesive vibration in the car. Just wondering if i need to pay attention to wheel bearning . to take the locking wheel bolt out, tyre shop guys used heat (fire)..

Does any one know how top mounting of my car should look like. the one I bought, i couldn't see the teeth. it was covered by the rubber amd ,echanic atatched them together and put on the top of the mounting but the one he took out my car hasn't had any rubber. please check the pictures.

Finally i managed to get rid off locking wheel bolts. It caused me a stressful day..Anyway, happy jappy now.

By the way, Does anyone know where can I find the Locking Nut Key Code? in the socket, it sayz Z only. I am attaching the label which I have found in the boot.

When driving through rough road there is rattling noise (not metal, sound like under try is shaking while driving) Car was inspected and driven by the garage guy, sound is always there....car has been put on the ramps several times to identify the cause, but couldn't found anything wrong. Finally they said it could be shock mounting? I took the car to the second garage for second opinion, They also couldn't find the cause and also he said Shock absorber, spring, mounting are all good. Now I am confused. I already order the shock mounting for £25 from ebay. guys do you have any opinion what should I do. If the guy takes the shock out and replace the mounting, it will be just waste of money. is there any way, I can test the Mounting of the shock?

I've decided to go for the regular bolt. I have ordered them from ebay (same seller that i posted above). Waiting for them to arrive. I guess my old locking key should be okay to open those special bolt fromt wheels by the garage people. I'll try with garage people once the bolts are arrived.

Rather than getting the Locking key only, I think it will be good idea to get the full set of bolt and locking key.

Thanks xman for specifying the names. My locking key is damaged. it worked for the front two to unscrew them but rear right was very tight. I damaged it there. So, I was just wondering probably I'll get another full set with Locking key if they are not too expensive. I already sent the query to ebay seller..they replied saying that they are double checking and will confirm me. N.B: Does anyone know the actual measurement of the bolt and locking keys?

My locking wheel nut got damaged. Could anybody share me the part number of the nut and locking wheel nut's for me to shop around for new set? I saw in amazon, they are selling for MK3 for someone said on the review that it was too small. and also there is one on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173796169527?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11050.m43.l1123&mkcid=26&ch=osgood&euid=a5267a11bb90498fa37cec76533b577e&bu=43329747725&osub=-1~1&crd=20240303052717&segname=11050 No clue if they will fit in my car not. Thank you.

I have already mentioned in this thread or may be my own thread about my finding of this kind of problem. I think, if there is no obvious loss of power, it is a problem of electrical...may be something attached to the 12v socket which is faulty or probably obd port is occupied with obd11 or dashcam. in my case i had to go through changing spark plugs, ignition coils etc which couldn't solve the problem..then I realised that when OBD11 is no more conencted to the OBD port, this stop/start malfunction or engine flashing light doesn't pop up. So, my advice would be to keep all the electrical appliances (12v adapter,cable, dash cam etc) disconnected and try few days to see if this problem reoccur. Probably you can use different 12v adapter to charge your mobile and also consider to check the health of your battery as well. N.B: last night i had the similar problem after a long time (flashing engine light followed to stop-start not being working and cyl3 misfire with random multiple cylinder. I changed the 12v adapter and it didn't pop up again. it's kind of strange problem to me but this is what it is, at least in my case.

It seems your sensor is faulty then..i didn't have anything wrong and any problem with TPMS at all. It was occasionally i used to get this low pressure warning.

I didn't have any fault..at lwast obd11 couldn't pull any fault. Somehow it is not occuring after changing the tyres. I almost forgot about this problem.

Could it be a faulty sensor then! why not to try new sensors. they are not very expensive. Even I was shopping around to buy and as my problem sorted i didn't bother to buy. autodoc or aliexpress sell them.

tbh, my tyre was pretty new too..following by a pot hole hit i had to change the tyre from mobile tyre fitter. same tyre went bursted in Germany and i replaced both tyres and never seen the problem again. You can swap tyres around to pin point the problem probably.

No, The tyre went bursted while I was in Germany for holiday. So, I had to buy couple of new tyres and since then this problem gone.

I have had to change the tyre. since then I don't have ths problem.