automass

No nothing, I would have said if there was any other fault.

Thanks Graham Butcher. tbh, I am not worried for the dash cam for the moment. start-stop is my concern now and diagnose said misfires...but doesn't feel any..so it happens last year ..I am in the same loop again.

No, it doesn't show the reason. when i scanned, it gave me fault for cyl3 misfire + random cyl misfire only. OBDeleven data log Date: 2023-08-29 23:17 VIN: TMBBC7NE9J0155483 Car: Skoda Octavia Year: 2018 Body type: Estate Engine: CZDA Mileage: 167650 KM --------------------------------------------------------------- 01 Engine System description: R4 1.4l TFS Software number: 04E906027HD Software version: 3742 Hardware number: 04E907309BH Hardware version: H26 ODX name: EV_ECM14TFS01104E906027HD ODX version: 001007 Long coding: 01250032232401080000 Trouble codes: P030000 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected static Date: 2023-08-29 22:40:19 Mileage: 167627 km Priority: 2 Malfunction frequency counter: 1 Unlearning counter: 255 Engine speed: 752.50 1/min Normed load value: 16.1 % Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Coolant temperature: 96 °C Intake air temperature: 50 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 13.028 V Dynamic environmental data: 20965011BE000C13F4820EF40683F4463810D3001A14B408FC P030300 - Cyl.3 Misfire Detected static Date: 2023-08-29 22:40:25 Mileage: 167627 km Priority: 2 Malfunction frequency counter: 1 Unlearning counter: 255 Engine speed: 752.50 1/min Normed load value: 16.1 % Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Coolant temperature: 96 °C Intake air temperature: 50 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 13.028 V Dynamic environmental data: 209650F44638F40B21101000A314B408FC1199100017460001432100

No, but star-stop wasn't working...battery seems fine now .

I also don't like halfords autocenter myself. i went to my local regular garage but they are enormously busy. said me to call them after 4th September to arrangea a day. I tempt to pull out the ignition coils and spark plugs myself. Can I pull the ignition coil packs myself without any tool? and I'll try to buy a long metal 16mm socket from shops to unscrew the spark plugs. they have been used for a year and 30k miles. do you suspect, ignition coils or spark plugs life is over?

I went to halfords again and they checked the battery. They said battery is ok..may be electrical fault causing start-stop not working. They recommended me to have the car checked up by halfords autocenter. My OBDelevenbis plaing up now . can't diagnose any more..it says 'Device is not authorized'

it's OBDeleven diagnostic. car's seems bit rough, very negligible though. I did service myself...just changed the oil and air filter only. and also i topped up a little bit oil today as i saw it is little low than the full. no warning light whatsoever. as I said, last year I had the similar issue with problem of start-stop system + cyl misfire etc.. N.B: I don't have spark plugs removing tool especially that long metal socket. otherwise I would have checked myself this time.

Thanks everybody for your valuable advice. It's really frustrating that I am getting the similar issue like last year (right before the battery replacement). it's not only the battery, as I was driving, my strat-stop was not working..then i ran the diagnose and it detects maltiple cylander misfire , cyl3. i couldn't feel any loss of power anyways (same as last year). so, just wondering, how they all are connected..which one to be blamed. battery, or spark plugs. i changed my battry on April 2022, so it is fairly new and then changed the spark plugs on July 2022 (mileage was 72736 and now 104150). Suppose dash cam was running the battery down which causing engine not to start..then what about misfire of cylender? why they are popping up in diagnose? I am getting really annoyed and frustrated now. N.B: Cyl3 misfire seems very common for me. never seen cyl 4, 2 or 1. it's random cyl or cyl3 misfire

I can't really recall how the car was started once battery was replaced..but I don't think they used jump start (i would have remembered if it was the case) and also they should know (at least better than me) how to start the car with new battery. I am pretty sure battery had some juice and car started in normal manner. I am looking into to get the battery tested in further extent. but first I am taking my dash cam off and connect it home with power to see if it works as long as the power is connected. It could be the case that my dash cam is the culprit, but again why did it not do it before. this is not the first time I am keping dash cam connected. it was always up and running in the car.

what's this?

nattery terminals are clean and they are securely tight. no doubt about it. they use positive to positive and negative to negative and asked me to start the car. car started within a second. battery came with 5 years warranty halfords brand. I am just guessing can my dashcam drain out all the juice of the battery ? its a AZDOME dashcam. I've been using it for ages without any trouble and it is always connected in 12v port. nowadays, I can see it gets powered off time to time and ofcourse if i leave the car for long it gets off whcih was not the case previously.

it's not multimeter. i think basic battery diagnostic tool. I argued with him that as i was driving the car, the battery is fully charged now and hence it is showing good in your system, but he replied this is basic test and that's what they can do. Should i use my OBDeleven tool to check 14.5v. if yes then how? When the car was not starting for the first time in London (Sunday night) everything was working. headlights, interior lights, infoteinment system, car locking/unlocking..basically everything. only thing i saw in the dash was battery power is too low and all the other warning was popping up one by one. Cranking sound but not starting When the car was not starting for the second time in Germany sysmptoms were all the same. Cranking but not starting. as soon as they guy used jumpt starter battery booster, it started straight away.

Everytime I go to Europe, something has to happen. This time it was one after another. friday we went Main-Taunus-zentrum from our holiday rental in Drolshagen and car battery went flat. last sunday night battery went flat for the first time right before the holiday. I had to call the breakdown to jump start. Battery is bought from halfords 1 year and 4 months ago. I had the battery checked up today in halfords and guy said battery is good, probably alternator or starting motor is faulty. how can i diagnose/check it myself?

I don't mind to change any sensors..but do I have to change for all four of them?..and is it common to have them faulty? It sounds very strange to me. I'll keep en eye for another tpms false warning and then will take action .

I don't think my ABS sensor is faulty. i don't feel any problem driving or braking the car at all other than some squeaky noise which is coming from the brand new sets of brake pad. Moreover it is not particularly from one wheel the warning coming from. So if i, for the argumnent sake, change rear left ABS sensor, would it solve the problem or i have to change them all four wheels.

it is false warning..because the tyre is not lossing in pressure that TPMS suggesting. I mentioned earlier that I have digital inflator and i am always careful with the pressure of my tyres. So, definitely it is false warning and it gives me in random tyres...month ago it was rear right, then front left, rear left and then front left..so all tyres got the warning.

Guys, so what is the summary. What action should I take to stop this false warning.

Nice to know that they are cheap aftermarket product and easy to replace. But which sensor I need to look for and where are they located?

I set the tpms while car was stationary..never did it while the car was running.

I didn't do it myself. but I asked the garage guy to check while he was doing the job (changing brake disks and pads). He said all was good.

Hi Guys, Still I am getting random false TPMS Warning. I had my front brakes pads changed and rear Brake Pads and Disk both changed a month ago. The other night I got the warning for the front Left and last night i got the rear left tpms warning. I have my digital tyre inflator in my car all the time and i check the pressure of my tyres and balance them up every now and then and whenver i do it i set it through the infoteinment system as well. I never had of this kind weird false TPMS warning with my other two Octavias.. Does any one know how to recaliber or reset TMPS? something somewhere could be wrong.

Yesterday I took the wheels off for better look and seriously i couldn't find any fault/damage or whatsoever. Pad has still 35% life left and disk is still in good shape and has good life in it. Well, last night as i was driving, my rear left went over a mini pothole and instantly lose of pressure- rear right sign popped up. I stopped the car and inspected the tyres, but nothing unusual. Anyway,i have decided to replace the rear brake disks and pads and front pads only. I want to summaize my post and needs one last favour from you guys please. Current mileage 96,459miles Rear Brake Pads replaced = 9/8/21 mileage: 51,500 miles (bought disks as well from autodoc but it was wrong measurement), garage guy said my disk was perfectly normal so not to worry. I am attaching the pictures for you guys to recommend the right size. Front Brake Disk and Pads replaced: 4/3/21, mileage: 41,580. still have 30% life left but decided to replace the brake pads only disk is perfect as of now.

Wheel has been swapped with front right as i mentioned my post. So, there shouldn't be any wrong with tyre. it could be something else. last brake fluid was changed couple of years ago (8/3/21) though Kwik Fit said it was not necessary, but i had it changed . so it is not that old and i have brake disk and pad checked up during MOTs and every now and then. I am not aware of brakes service annually. I consider replacing any parts as and when needed to keep the car in optimal condition. Last time i had been to the garage Probably two months ago for replacing Coil springs and front shocks, they said Brake Pads and disks are perfectly fine and they have 50% life left. Rear Brake Pads were changed 9/8/21 and mileage was 51,500 miles and now car mileage is 96,500miles.

Sorry, it will be Wheels not Tyre Swapping. What is sticking calliper? What should i look for? Does anybody have any picture for me to understand better. Thanks once again