nidza

Optimal is to have thin spare wheel, it's enough and better then repair kits. Potholes usually ruin tire or entire wheel beyond this quick repair. Plus, it leaves so much spaces around, you can put pretty much everything you need: event entire repair kit.

https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Enter your VIN here, and it will provide you possible download options.

Octavia RS petrol is 340mm, diesel is 312mm. Any upgrade will make your brakes heavier, you can't avoid this. Additionally, you will need bigger wheels, with more expensive tires.

Can't be, S3 is MQB, must be 1-on-1 with O3. For 345mm front disc I don't think you can fit 17". My humble opinion, you don't need this @haris. It will be unnecessary heavier, will affect unsprung weight, not sure how the brake pedal will feel, and the costs of wearable parts will be severe increased. Not likely you will ever be able to have it in proper working temperature to really find its purpose, like on the track days. Only positive what I see in this swap is improvement of the looks.

@skodasweden, it fits 16Gb for Amundsen, for Columbus must be larger. But, please consider that there are smaller region options with smaller size maps.

By my understanding, Haldex couple can lock up to the level that torque is evenly distributed across axles, meaning 50/50 in ideal scenario. The rest of connections are open differentials. When they say it can transfer 100% to the rear, this is just clever marketing, and although it is actually truth* (I'll explain in the end), it is incorrect to claim so, as it misleads the customers to believe rear shaft has some independent connection to the engine and full control of the torque by the Haldex system. It does not, you have additional open differential, attached to existing open differential like any normal front wheel driving car. This setup is far from perfect in slippery conditions. It needs assistance to stop spinning wheel by applying braking force to stop it from spinning and save some remaining torque for another half of differential, or let's say "third" in this case. You have felt this behavior, as it starts slapping brake pad to the brake disc, where it looses traction. Maybe it is still in the learning stage, but I suppose it is just trying to compensate worn tires on wet road. Weight distribution affects traction, when you start, from 0, most weight is at the front where engine is. When you start accelerating, more weight is transferred to the rear, but as you get the speed weight moves back to the front. *in theory, when there is no traction, there is no torque, formula says that. So, if fronts are spinning, no torque is present there, while all existing torque is transferred to the back. This is 100%, as they claim, can happen in some conditions, but in reality I don't think so. You don't have full control over it, and you cannot with a press of a button convert such a car to the rear wheel driven vehicle. @o6w6e6n, maybe my understanding of technical way how 4x4 is implemented to your car, can help you follow-up how it behaves on the road and is it something expected or you really suffer some malfunction.

I did put factory pads as a replacement, as my search led to nowhere, for good road performance plus occasional TD. What I have is Jurid in front, Ferodo on back, as OEM, probably the same for you, and first set did the job properly in normal and heavy duty conditions. If you don't TD, you can put pretty much everything from good known names. What will be the upgrade when discs are worn are Clubsport discs (5Q0615301C) in front, most likely Ferodo DS2500 (or DS Performance, which is similar to the Jurid pad, if not exactly the same, which is OEM). Rear can actually remain OEM, to be able to get and stay warm for proper usage, but still open. I don't think strong pad and discs are needed there.

Happens to 2.0 TSI sometimes. Too rich fuel/air mixture just after the start (used to be 'the choke' on carburetors), nothing to worry about. edit: in the meantime learned for another explanation, related to catalytic converter, thanks @Phil-E. Yes, this is possible too, indeed. Could be both reasons, all my old petrol cars with carburetors with manual choke needed rich mixture for reliable start-up.

Question for everybody, especially @pab567, as this thread is becoming very active and popular: - Unless there is any issue noted with my unit, does it make sense to update? - What are the benefits for properly working units? Thanks.

From the very exact reason, for podcasts or audiobooks, it is much more comfortable to use your phone with special application installed, just for this purpose. You can even continue listening to the materials outside of the car. Think about this approach.

You have a bit idealistic impression of Toyota, exactly because you haven't owned one. For a long long time they don't shine as before, actually, nowadays differences between cars are not that much as used to be. You trade some package of pros and cons, to the which suits you best.

?! How can it be any bigger and yet remain in the segment? It is already faking D segment and being better in matter of space and functionality of many standard representatives above. --------- Piano black sucks. Insulation could be better and I hate sometimes noises coming from front bushings.

Just checked with the drivers, they've switched to Mobil1, same thickness, 5w-30. They said it made the difference, not my car, don't shoot the messenger. Will not hurt that you try. Just to be frank completely, greater oil consumption of certain brand or viscosity, is not related to better or worst lubrication and engine protection. What is a fact, both these oils fairly well protected our company cars, as majority of them are passing 400.000km before selling them.

@dajungle, try different brand supplier of oil. Maybe it will lower oil consumption, and could bring it to the level acceptable for you. We had excessive oil consumption in our company TDI O3, but later on drivers switched to something else, I don't know what, from Castrol which it consumed a lot.

Don't forget torque wrench and information about each bolt tightening level.

Just wanted to underline that my front sensors proven to be quite useful. Not only for taking care of my own car in the tight spaces, but also learned where the limits are for our other Octavia which has only the ones in the back.

Can be ordered from China, I've seen on alibaba batches of change-able CID SD cards, various capacities, but they ask for like 20 to be ordered. When we order then, we will need a device to put Škoda's CID onto them. If we succeed, not an issue to dispatch SD cards via basic envelope and share the costs of course. Think about possibility. Maybe they will wait that the last one Octavia with 16Gb comes out of warranty?

1. You can do it every 12, this is my program. Edge Titanium 0w-20 2. Never had any issue 3. This is new engine EA888 Gen 3 4. Never heard 5. Leather electric seats, VAQ, DCC 6. Canton is better option, but default is also okay, I have never seen anything but these 2 Good luck.

Check the fuse.

What is the tire dimension and brand? 20k miles may be a lot for some tires, for others not. Can you take a photo of those cuts?

First of all, it is unlikely that you have now third different issue which is causing the same symptom. Simply cannot be. I suspect that the root cause was not found in the first place.

Škoda included spare wheel for my car, 340mm brakes. I can go outside of office and check?