nidza

Yes, DQ200 has been improved.

Yes you can, budget was precisely to fit this car and it was on the stock very nicely equipped with virtual cockpit, lane assist, Columbus, 17", matrix lights, etc, can't recall everything. But, I am fully agreed that DSG is better choice with such a _not_ fun car to drive. The other car we drive, from the signature, is the funnier one.

Either way, DCC will be a severe upgrade on your car. Today you will feel to press sport button and enjoy the road, tomorrow you may want comfort car for a long ride to St. Peterburg on their ****ty roads, but all the way car will be less prone to roll on quick direction change and will have better braking performance as it adjusts all the time for optimal traction.

Well man, maybe you should look to some more expensive car for this, like BMW M3 or something? But, when you put your feet on the ground, O4 with DCC is really something you will enjoy. Why don't you go to RS? RS only has a sport suspension, either with DCC or not.

We have O4 1.5 Style manual. ACT is no issue, I can sense it always, but passengers do not. When my wife is driving, she doesn't know, doesn't care, doesn't hear, or feel anything, or is aware that such a system exists in the car. I suppose majority of owners are like her. Kangorooing a bit is still there, especially when releasing clutch gently, but not a thing to avoid car.

Allright, obviously you haven't really do any research prior asking question. I will try to be of assistance, based on Octavia 3 RS, petrol version. DCC is a dynamic gadget, it always adjusts all 4 shock absorbers, based on input ECU gets from various sensors car has. In other words, continuously improving behavior of the vehicle (in comparison to classical, static suspension). This is important to know to understand the difference even if the mode where stiffness is similar to static setup. Over the top, you have 3 levels of stiffness. Now, let's compare, you have 3 DCC settings. 1) SPORT -> stiffer then non-DCC 2) NORMAL -> similar to non-DCC, but always better, because of its dynamic nature 3) COMFORT -> softer to non-DCC Ride height seems similar, if there is, it's too little - maybe you can find some exact data on the internet. I hope now you have information you need for your decision? O4 and O3 are mechanically almost identical, therefore cannot be much difference, except little things like not remembering setting on next ignition - could be related to DSG. Mine is manual, so no need to protect DSG with reverting to normal.

I can give you my experience from O3 RS, DCC and no DCC. DCC in normal is more-less like non-DCC suspension. Sport is stiffer, comfort is softer. In my car setting stays until next ignition, it changes only when you change it. Go for DCC and never look back.

I'm all ears!

I hate smell and feel of rubber mats. Have it on other car from the signature, but only during winter time.

Golf R also has weak clutch, and this part is the reason behind its engine is cut at 380Nm, much lower then DSG engine. Stage 1 for RS is usually above 450Nm (some are measured above 500Nm), so you have to go to Sachs Performance or similar (I don't have experience with other). Take into consider the pedal will be much heavier, and engaging clutch on first and revers will be a bit different, sometimes jerky. This is probably the reason why manuals have lower torque, so they can fit clutch which is soft enough for an average driver. Nevertheless, pros/cons, put the stronger clutch and never look back. Stage1 is pointless with OE clutch in your case.

You can try to find on ebay, people are able to put correct CID compatible for your car, or they can even ask you to read the CID from your original card and make specially for you larger card with same CID. Try to find someone do it in UK. Best next alternative is to find used original card if something is wrong with yours.

Our misbehaves, especially with Parking sensors, but I write from experience of a friends car, whose HU died. They have tried an update on dealers and it was still dead. Then after some time it updated OTA, at least this is how she explained to me, and all sorted out by itself. We need to take ours for this update, as nothing is coming OTA, but it misbehaves still.

Things break. Don't take it personally. Insist to get a new fully charged battery.

You have to try them before buying, if you insist, but I advice against this wheel dimension. Maybe the looks will be better, but functionality of the vehicle will be compromised. This wheel is intended for much heavier Audi.

@MichaelTL, yes, for me it is a black box, but someone I know has access to such cards for different purposes and a device which can write as a CID whatever he wants. It is black, noname card. What is the market price I don't know, but I have given you at least a point of thinking, search in UK if someone offers same.

You may freely format Škoda OEM card. I did it many times. If you're afraid, you can delete all data, instead, but it is slowed and it is consuming life out of your card more then just a format (it deletes just file allocation table). OP should try some card format software, maybe it will fix the card. It is also possible that card is faulty, it happens. SD cards aren't the most reliable media in the market.

Format will clear card. As Amundsen doesn't has its own memory, it uses just this Škoda card. You don't need another card or USB stick to upload, although it is possible. It is easier if you remove the Škoda card, connect to your laptop, format it and directly unpack the map archive you get from UPDATE SKODA portal. Simply plug the card next time into Amundsen, should be recognized and work. What is good to know, it is actually possible that someone who has proper medium and software, to write Škoda's CID (this code which protects other card to be used, but only OEM) to another card, bigger, faster, so the device accepts it. I did it for myself, read CID from my OEM 16Gb Škoda card, and used it to put to another 32Gb card. Now both work.

Didn't happen with Octavia, but with many previous cars I've been able to replicate the issue deliberately, when driving slowly down with very little RPM. I could press many times brake until it stiffens and stops braking, exactly as you describe, but it takes just a couple of seconds to re-gain the pressure in the system. Is it possible that something similar occurred when you was experiencing it, but the dealers if drive it with more spirit, cannot do? Just an idea... It's really a cold shower when you press stiff pedal and nothing is happening. I can imagine how frustrating and dangerous it is.

The timing can't be worst to replace good and reliable car. The only exception may be if you find something already on stock at the dealers. Otherwise it's a horror. I hear more and more people whose car instead being delivered ends in the airstrip waiting for some missing semiconductor component. We can assume quite stressful period is coming for manufacturers and customers. My advice, Stage 1 and keep it until 2023.

We call it on ours O4 1.5 TSI, kangaroo. Judder will occur as you release the clutch, and friction surfaces aren't really gently sliding over. We have different issue, after the clutch engages, when you press throttle it starts jumping up and down, like old carburetor cars when they choke. I don't know whether it is fixable, as I was reading this is resolved since 2019, but our car is brand new 2021...

Is it petrol version? I don't know for diesel, but for petrol it has an issue with valve/pump housing, as well as some rubber sealing which needs to be replaced too. I have the issue, noticed drop after 2 years of usage, and it is really little, not as yours. Friend of mine has 245, it also has this "feature". Seems like common thing.

Same here. It is loosing it very very little, but still loosing. They have replaced thermostat valve, entire unit, and it is still loosing a little in the same place. Maybe they've missed some rubber joint or whatever there, or maybe this joint or pipe end was the issue in the first place, who knows. Not urgent, but will be reported before last official service within warranty.

Most of posters here described exactly as it is in O3, as O4 is more-less exactly the same car mechanically. I will try to put into one message all information, so OP isn't confused: 1) Different keys, different seat and mirror position, but it must be set in head unit (it's off by default) 2) While in car you need to hold the button, as a safety measure, because it allows seat memory recall during driving - please imagine your seat goes all the way front or back, while on a highway, if you press 3 instead of 1 for example, or kids played before. You could easily crash. 3) When you unlock the car and open the door, pressing the button shortly will do the memory recall position all the way, without holding. So, two drivers, one key, each one calls back memory position which he put. This use-case isn't a safety issue, because the car is standing still.

I don't have it on RS, but civilian O2FL, 2xO3 and now O4 have it, we were unable to "un-spec" it, arrived as is from the dealers. Let's say, not completely useless, but mostly it is. But, what is a fact, it makes the rear of the car so much uglier, that little usefulness of it can't compensate. Normally liftback cars don't need it, only water can be there, dirt from the road never sticks as it does to the hatchbacks.

Yes, but 75kmh is a respectable result for such a huge SUV. This huge vehicle handles well, but this is completely different topic.