CookieMonster87

So I’ve paid off the settlement figure on my Octavia (2017 Mk3 FL vRS TDI DSG) as I’d planned to hang on to it a bit longer and if I’m being honest, have become quite attached to it! I took out a loan as the APR was much lower than refinancing with Skoda and we were having a bit of work done on the house to boot. I’ve had it roughly 3 years, bought second hand with 9k miles on the clock. I’m now at 40k miles and have recently changed jobs meaning I’ll be doing less than 10k miles a year. I’ve been debating going back to a hot hatch but a part of me wants to be more environmentally friendly. I also like to have the security of a decent warranty. Whilst Hyundai offer a 5 year warranty, Toyota offer 10 (if serviced at a main dealer). I have no reason to change car other than the fact it’d be more environmentally friendly and I’d have the security of the warranty. For the most part it’s just me driving around in the Octavia and for how often we fill it for a family holiday/trip to see the in laws I could justify a roof box on a smaller car. I can’t see PCP payments on a new car being too dissimilar to my monthly loan repayments over a similar period. Granted I won’t own the car at the end of the term. I should be able to pay the loan off early which would free up some monthly finances that would otherwise be going towards the PCP on a new car. I’m interested in the Toyota Corolla 2.0 Hybrid in GR Sport trim (not to be confused with the GR model we won’t be getting in Blighty). It’s getting a power upgrade (to 198hp) and facelift for 2023 whilst at the same time being more environmentally friendly and economical than the previous model. I know people have been impressed with the mpg they have been getting from Toyota Hybrids however I think the trim quality leaves a lot to be desired having seen rusting seat rails and trim becoming detached on a Yaris less than a year old! Just as well there’s that 10 year warranty eh. I love my Octavia, it’s not put a foot wrong. The alternative is to stick with it, potentially remap it, keep my fingers crossed I don’t get any gremlins and live with the fact it’s probably not the most green car out there. Curious to gauge peoples thoughts on this as I’m very torn.

So just over 2 weeks on the level is sat higher than where I’d last topped it up to (the mark I’d put on the tank initially after I’d noticed the air lock). Granted the ambient temperature on the day I topped it up was a bit cooler. I’ve noticed the level sitting higher on these warmer days without the car being driven. Will probably just clean the mark off I’d put on the expansion tank and periodically check to ensure it’s between the min and max.

I’d already topped it back up to the mark I’d put on the tank initially. Will keep an eye on it and re-mark it if it drops again and do as you suggested.

Afternoon all. Back in Feb I had my cambelt and waterpump done at a main dealer. A few days later I noticed the coolant had dropped to below the min so topped it up and put a mark on the tank between the min and max to monitor the level. No further issues so this was put down to the fact there was possibly an airlock in the system post maintenance. Fast forward a few months, to about 3 weeks ago, I noted the level had dropped about 5mm below the mark I’d put on the tank before. I topped this up back to my marker and after the next journey checked when the level had cooled. At this point it was above the mark so left as is. This afternoon I’ve been out cleaning the car and giving the engine bay a bit of a detail and noticed the level was slightly below my marker again. So my question is, does the level of coolant fluctuate depending on the ambient temperature and is going off a single mark on the tank a bit silly as a result? The level has never dropped below the min (other than the airlock mentioned above) so I’m talking 5mm give or take. There is some evidence of dried coolant around the cap/overflow so I’m guessing with these extreme temps we’ve been having at some point when driving it’s dumped some. Given the cap a clean so will keep an eye on this.

My aircon has started to make a sucking noise now and again. Usually when I start the car or randomly during a drive. I’ve been advised, in another thread, to have it re-gassed/serviced. This was last done about 2 years ago at the recommended aircon service interval. Still blows cold mind. My aircon is always on, set at auto and usually between 18 and 21. Curious to see what settings others use if they run for many years without requiring a service/re-gas.

I really like the look of the Mk4 vRS inside and out. The touch screen faf with the climate control (I appreciate this is a cost saving thing that all manufacturers are doing) and the numerous software issues are putting me off at the minute. I’m also concerned that due to part supply issues across many manufacturers in the current climate I wouldn’t want to buy a car that’s under spec. For example; I recall a thread in which a buyer was no longer able to have a rear view camera despite it being listed as standard with the vehicle not discounted to suit. I appreciate that manufactures “reserve the right to change spec” but I’d be pee’d off if later models had these fitted for the same cost due to the parts having become available. Maybe something worth looking in to if you’re interested in a new Mk4. Personally, I’d like to move away from diesel but can’t justify the cost of, or like, most electric/hybrid vehicles currently on the market. The petrolhead in me is leaning towards a Hyundai i30n or BMW 128ti (Golf GTI and Audi S3 are too expensive) but I know the Mk4 245 Octavia vRS with all its software floors is ticking the boxes for cost, performance and practicality. Continues to scratch head.

Not sure I like it as much in those photos. As you said though, pictures don’t do it justice and the lighting probably doesn’t help. Would have to see it in the flesh. Maybe in vRS spec with black badges 🤔

I got mine from a local Skoda dealership. Part No’s: RH: 5E0853794041 https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/products/fog-lamp-corner-trim-black-glossy-right-octavia-iii LH: 5E0853793041 https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/products/fog-lamp-corner-trim-glossy-black-left-octavia-iii?_pos=2&_sid=713a2d35b&_ss=r

Best way to describe it is that it’s placed against the number and slid in to place for the clips to engage as opposed to be pushed on at 90 degrees to the bumper. I struggled to release the clips along the top which resulted in the old one becoming distorted. Definitely not reusable. Bumper was fine though.

@Monte Carlo Mart mine didn’t look as bad as that! It came off with a bit of a tug. It has to be slid slightly toward the front of the car. Once you get a new one you can see how it’s held in place. Swapped it out in 5 minutes. I can only assume that once a stone chip takes that first bit off and moisture gets under there it all begins to peel off. I noticed a stone chip on the other side just the other day annoyingly, doesn’t warrant replacing it so I’ll see how that goes over time.

Had a quick search but couldn’t find anything that really described what I’m hearing from my climate control. I’ll start the car up and hear what’s best described as a suction sound for about 3 second from around the bottom of the windscreen. It’ll randomly happen again in the middle of a journey. As far as I can tell the climate control works fine. It’s always left in Auto with A/C. Last had the aircon serviced about 2 years ago, most recent car service was Feb with nothing mentioned. I don’t recall how long it’s been going on for and as I’ve had no ill affects it’s not bothered me. Just curious now. Any thoughts on this?

Has anybody replaced the gloss black fog light trim on the vRS and have any tips on removal/fit? I’ve just ordered a replacement as the lacquer on one side is flaking off. Hoping a bit of a tug/gentle prizing with a trim tool will do the job. Thanks is advance.

I have Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 5’s on mine, no complaints from me. Surprised you’re struggling on PS4’s, you won’t get much better than those, however you can’t wholly rely on tyres for handling especially on a 4 door saloon. May be worth getting an alignment check done or investing in some ARB’s, springs if you’re looking to upgrade the handling. On from that coil overs and LSD’s are a bit pricier (not sure if the Petrol vRS has an LSD as standard).

Racingline will also be my map of choice when my extended warranty expires (vRS TDI). They included remaps in the last Black Friday sale although the price varied up to £50 between installers depending on how much of the sale they pass on/charge for labour. I’d say you’re roughly 1 hour 30 mins from Awesome GTI who offered this at Racinglines sale price over this period. Other companies closer to you are probably available, worth a look on their website for retailers but Awesome have a good rep from what I gather.

@East_Yorkshire_Retrofits ok, thanks for clarifying. Do you know what would be required in order for this to work? On the later FL models changing the ambient lighting on the infotainment would also change the maxidot and door lights to match. Unfortunately, due to it being an early FL car, I am only able to change the lighting on the doors. From the pictures posted above it looks as if the infotainment changes colour to match too, that’d be half my problem solved. Can you confirm that this is the case?

@East_Yorkshire_Retrofits great work with the retrofits so far. Is this possible on the following Amundsen system? Part Number: 5Q0035874B Hardware: H31 Software Version: 0366 This is fitted to a Mk3 FL Octavia. If so do the colour changes apply to the Maxidot also?

I’m not going to drive around with low coolant or until the low level warning comes on. I’ve topped it up once and marked the tank. If it drops again I know I have a leak.

Wouldn’t the coolant level rise when hot and drop when cold? As suggested, will leave the car until morning when cold and check/top the level up then. Will most likely mark the tank to make sure there aren’t any further losses over the next week or so but I’m fairly certain it’s just an airlock after the service (he says hopefully).

Evening all. This afternoon I was under the bonnet topping up the screen wash before I set off on a long commute and noticed the coolant was roughly 5-10mm below the min marker on the expansion tank. Last week the car was in with a main dealer for it’s 5 year Service which included the cambelt and waterpump etc. I’ve done a couple of hundred miles of motorway driving since and I had noted the coolant level was correct at the time I collected the car. As I didn’t have any coolant to hand I’ve had to pick some up from Skoda on the commute however with the engine now being hot I don’t really want to top it up. The level is on the min marker with the engine up to temp. I’m guessing this will be down to an airlock created during the maintenance having cleared itself and will just require a top up and monitor. Is there anything else I should look out for in the meantime? There are no signs of overheating and the low level warning hasn’t come on. Thanks in advance.

I noticed different tail lights on another Octavia vRS that I was following the other day. I have a 2017 FL vRS with the lights below. The car I was following had the following lights which I actually prefer (didn’t see the front of the car and it was on a private plate so I couldn’t tell if it was pre/post FL). Are these a different spec of LED lights that were an option or simply pre and post FL?

I have a 2017 vRS TDI DSG and probably do the same amount of miles as you with the majority on long motorway drives averaging 52-60mpg. No issues for me apart from the odd rattle that, if diagnosed, can be fixed easy enough. Just flown through its 5 year service (incl. cambelt and waterpump) and 3rd MOT without any issues. If I wasn’t doing the journeys I do I’d go back to a manual, petrol car purely for drivability, tuneability and all around enjoyment. Most likely a vRS Challenge model. At present though I feel as if I have a good car and will be hanging on to it for a bit. Next time Racingline have a sale on I’ll be getting their OEM+ Stage 1 remap.

@user003484 have you thought about a re-trim? You could potentially have the seat centres re-trimmed and have a half leather look. This would help keep the cost down and give you a bit more freedom of choice on material type/quality. A good automotive trimmer would be able to replace the seat centres, stitching the replacement material to match the current look. I went to a trimmer to have a badly worn seat bolster replaced and ended up doing the above although I went for perforated leather in a similar colour to the car. Having said that I’ve done my best to keep away from leather since for the reasons you’ve suggested.

That’s one thing NZ and UK dealerships have in common! We spent a month travelling around both Islands on our honeymoon a few years back. Loved every minute. The roads are nice and quiet (apart from Auckland) and the scenery is stunning. It was a bit overcast the couple of days we stayed in Frank Josef however we still managed to get a helicopter up to the Glacier. Spotted a good number of muscle cars out there too. One day we’ll emigrate.

@ScottyNS really easy to fit mate. I did mine without disconnecting the battery. You will notice a slight recess along one of the shorter sides, use a trim tool/rounded knife to push in and gently prize the old ones out from there. New ones are plug and play and just push back in.

@Dubwiser ah got you. I wonder if they would be able to recall the vehicle and fit it retrospectively once they have stock of the parts.