Recretos

Am I sensing some sarcasm there, or are you being legit? As far as bore wash goes, I am not familiar with that problem on this engine. I would assume that would require some kind of malfunction, like cranking for a prolonged period without starting, or an injector problem. And I agree that the 0.5l per 1000km is a nasty and cheap way out. Cheap for VAG, not for the poor soul that takes that as an actual norm. I would take the last still acceptable normal oil consumption, for the oil to drop down to near (not to) MIN mark on the dipstik. Basically for the engine to not require a top-up between services. And 0.5l per 1000km is certainly far from that. Thats a seized engine half way into the service interval, for an unsuspecting (or ignorant) user. Not sure in what fantasy land is that normal.

I asked the service guy at the dealership at delivery about oil top-ups (blame it on my Clio experience), and he actually said that these engines should never need an oil top-up, regardless of what the manual says about "normal" oil consumption. And based on all your feedback and my experience, he is right. I also wouldnt need a top-up. 2dcl on 11.400km, would be less than 3dcl at service interval. And that would barely get you (if at all) half way to the Minimum mark on the oil dipstik, which means I could still go for thousands without actually needing a top up. I basicay did it because of an old habit from past experience. I just like to keep everything at optimal levels as far as machines go. I live on a small farm with quite a few machines, so checking and servicing all is pretty much a habit. This was the first time I did a top-up on this car, but in reality, it would not be necesarry. The oil level was above half way to MIN, when at Op.Temp., and a bit more when cold, since it takes some time for all the oil to flow back down. And no, I didnt overfill, since I check the oil when the engine is warm, but I top-up when its cold, to prevent overfilling. For me, the very low oil consumption is another big plus for this engine. Another plus is the quality of the oil itself after 7100+ miles. Its not that burned at all, compared to some other cars in the family (and by relatives) that I do oil checks on. It still has that nice brownish color, unlike the black matter I had in my Clio at 2000 miles already, despite using quality oil. I am, lets say, reasonably familiar with the "engineering aspect" of the 1.2TSi engine, so I shouldnt be surprised by all of this. As far as the oil quality/color goes, I guess the fuel quality should also be credited. I usually run high quality 100 RON fuel from OMV (tested cat.5 on WWFC quality scale). I am now on 95 RON for the purpose of data logging, but will go back to 100 RON later, since the quality is better, it has active cleaning agents and friction modifiers, and the price is not that much higher. Plus, these engines do benefit from higher octane fuel in terms of performance, tho that shouldnt be the reason for using 100 RON in the 1.2, unless you tune the car or you have a 2.0 TSi. I also noticed better fuel economy on the 100 RON. But I dont have scientific evidence to prove that, except my wallet. I am doing 40 or better MpG (5.8l per 100km) on 95 RON for the past 2 miles (did a reset then, to measure for winter time), got down to 44mpg on 100 RON in autumn on summer tires, on same routes. But I do a lot of uphill driving, since I live at 1050m (3450ft) above sea level. Thank you all for the feedback

I was looking for a topic specific to this engine, but did not find one, so I decided to open one, since i have a question to ask. My Fabia 2017 (1.2 TSI 90 - CJZC) , got delivered in June. I am running ~11400km at the moment (~7100 miles), and I had to top up with 2dl (0.2l) of oil (Castrol EDGE FST 5w-30) . Now to me that is somewhat surprising, since I was expecting a bit more consumption, especially in the first 15.000km, and since the oil in the car is 30 grade at operating temperature. I previously owned a 1.2 16v clio (2003), so oil consumption was an everyday thing for me. I do regular checks, due to my Renault experience, and was surprised and amazed that I could go full service interval without a top up, especially given all the stories I have heard about TSI engines and oil consumption. Because 0,2-0,3dl is not really much, and the engine would be OK even if one would forget to do any check at all in between service intervals. I also did quite a few WOT pulls while doing data logging on flat terrain and slight uphill. So i guess I might have lost 1dl there, under more "extreme" conditions, compared to everyday driving. I do my checks strictly at operating temperature, once or twice per month. Usually 5-10 minutes max. after getting home from work (a 30 minute drive usually). My question is for all the owners of 1.2 TSI engines, old or new, all engine codes: What is/was your oil consumption on average, or how often (and by how much) did you do an oil top-up in between service intervals? And did the oil consumption increase by much after a certain mileage (20k, 40k, 80k,...) and by how much? Of course i am not looking for exact specific numbers, just some approximate ideas. And I am asking for all engine codes, to get an idea if the new ones consume more/less oil than the older models on average. Regards.

I also had a funny noise coming from the dash when the car was 1-month old. It wasnt like a pen, but when I turned on the ventilation it sounded like a piece of paper in the wind. Tried many stuff, like bashing the dash and doing sharp fast turns if something would move, to no avail. In the end, after a week of struggle, I used an air compressor and blew 7bars of air pressure into the right air duct on the dash. And to my surprise, a piece of white foil appeared on the other side on the grill of the left air duct (the one next to the window). Used small pliers to reach in and grab the piece of foil. No idea how it got in, perhaps it was an excess piece of some insulation material inside the dashboard. It does prove tho that things can get loose in the dash.

Not sure where this came from now, but am I not going for the 5w-30 because of the VW recommendations. I didnt even knew about what they recommend, because I dont care much, except for the oil standard (502). I was writing from a more technical perspective, since I rather pick my own grade, which happens to be what they reccomend I see. And you cant really blame the oil grade for engine problems, but poor engieneering. You can use even 10w-60 if you like,but you have to consider engine tolerances, clearence and some general mechanics/features.

I have put mine on 15.000km (not miles) interval or 1 year, what comes first. 10.000km is too little, since I am now at 8800km and the oil is just slowly getting darker, so it has enough life in it, and 20.000km is too much if you want to keep the car for many years at peak performance. Tho the oil I will be using is Castrol 5w-30. The 30 grade is for the oil at operating temperature. If it were a naturally aspirated engine, I would recommend a 5w-40, but for the turbo TSi I am going for 5w-30 (or 0w-30 up further north), because the oil will flow a little bit better than the 40 grade (30 will be thinner) at operating temperature, not buy that much, but enough that it will also flow better in the small oil lines around the turbo, keeping it well lubricated and also cooling it. And a bit thinner oil will also benefit to the piston cooling oil jets, where its always easy to "spray" a bit thinner oil. And in the same time required for the the 5w-40 to get from cold to 40 grade viscosity, the 5w-30 will already be at the 30 grade viscosity, which means that it can reach the 40 grade viscosity faster than 5w-40, which in the colder winter months can make a difference in wear accumulated over many years. It also means that the in the colder months, the 30 grade will flow better a bit sooner than the 40 grade, around the turbo, prolonging its life. The problem might be if your engine would drink oil above normal levels. Then I would recommend using 5w-40 grade over 5w-30. The 1.2 TSi has a duocentric oil pump, driven directly by the crankshaft, which keeps the oil circuit regulated at the constant pressure of 3.5bar from 1400rpm onwards across the rev range. At also features a stock oil cooler, which is cooled by the primary cooling circuit.

The last versions of the 1.2 TSi's, EA211, EU6 (CJZ), that is sadly going out, is one of the most well put together engines in its rank. Unlike the earlier versions (EA111), it had most of the bad stuff fixed along the way. Snd now when most bad stuff is finally fixed, its going out of active production, or has already, Im not sure. It is a very happy to rev engine, that has a lot, if not the most of tuning potential for its class as a small displacement I4, family car engine. I am glad I own one of the last ones, before its fully replaced with the 1.0l 3-pots, which I read and heard are also looking promising. Some of the cool features of the last EA211 1.2 TSi: -Piston cooling oil jet, -Forged steel crankshaft, -Die-cast Aluminium alloy pistons -Variable valve timing (intake camshaft) -16 valve technology -Open deck cast aluminium block -Oil separator (kind of a stock oil catch can) for crankcase breather system, reducing carbon buildup. -Dual circuit cooling system -Air->water charge air cooling system -Electric wastegate control -Direct injection with a 5-point injector -High pressure fuel rail capable of 120-200 bars, so it doesnt bottleneck tuning capabilities -very capable ECU, Bosch Motronic MED 17.5.21, the same as in the 1.4 TSi, meaning there is room for tuning of the 1.2 TSi as far as engine controls go. Its quite a package, especially if you are into modifiying/tuning. Its almost an overkill as a package for the stock map 90hp, and tho 110hp gives it a little bit more justice, its still not enough for what this engine can handle. Transmission is another story tho..

Haha that would be a problem, because you might end up stuck in 1st gear, since you wouldnt know when to shift. Jokes aside, sounds like a dash instrument glitch. If any of the actual sensors would fail, that would put up an instant warning light. Especially if the crank sensor (G28) for the rev counter would fail, that would take away the engine power, limit revs to 3000rpm and put up the CEL. The rev would counter would still work tho, since it would run on the backup signal from the hall sender G40 on the intake camshaft. But the engine would be in limp mode.

Damn, too bad. I was looking forward myself. Tho 190bhp would be at the veeeery limit I would say. The problem would be the gearbox first I believe. High loads, high power, high temps, for a 200Nm rated box would likely be a slow kill when pushing 300 or above. Or a fast one if you would try to speed shift. 300Nm also isnt shaft breaking power, but it could be for a lower rated equipment, and the individual components in the gearbox. The gearbox is also made with weigth and cost reduction in mind, so unlike the engine, is not made for 100% power increase, but is designed to hold stock power. Stage 1 should be fine, but some advanced stuff above 250Nm might pose a risk on the longer term wear and tare. You can find the same manual gearbox on the Golf 7. The 1.4TSI (90kw) has the same gearbox MF200 as the 1.2 TSI's. But the 1.4TSI (103+kw) has a different manual gearbox, rated at 250Nm (MQ250-6F-02S). Funny enough tho, the DSG option on this engine is the same gearbox (DQ200-7F-0CW) as found on 1.2TSI's. So looks like the DSG boxes are beefier, but manuals are not, so they designed a different box for the stronger engines (1.4TSI 103kw, 250Nm).

Thats cool, you can do quite a lot with it. I have it for about 1 month, and it is a great tool. Should help you for sure. But be vary. You might not see all the sensors that are actually in your car. For example I cant see the MAF sensor and oil temp sensor, even tho I know they are in the car (obiously). But I can see it on other cars, so the problem is perhaps not the obd tool. Looks like the ECU doesnt want to show everything to these basic devices. Tho it would show on VCDS. But ofc the price difference is huge. Some of my examples.

Those are some sick numbers... What was the stock tune? 90? Just asking because of the dyno numbers. Going for 190HP range is quite a stretch for the 1.2TSI. The stock crankshaft is forged, so that will help to handle all the power. As for the rest of stock internals, I am not sure what to think. The conrods should hold aswell, unless the engine will be trashed at max power and WOTed on a daily basis. The pistons are made from die-cast aluminium, so they do dissipate extra heat a bit better, and the piston cooling oil jet does help, but heat management is an important factor to consider when going up to that power. Luckily also, the head gasket is a metal one, so should cope with the increased cylinder pressure without much problems. All in all, the EA211 1.2 TSI is a very well build engine with some good features, and the stock 90 hp tune is almost a disgrace for such a cool machine. So going for 190HP with stock internals is ok as long as you keep extra heat in check. On my 90HP stock tune, I am seeing EGT/Cat temps around 700-750°C under acceleration. Peaked at 800°C under longer higher load applications. The stock header (+integrated exhaust manifold) materials were made for temps up to 950°C max. Btw, what are his plans for the gearbox? Keeping the stock one? Those are rated at 200Nm (MQ200-5/6F) and the DSG (DQ200-7F) aswell, tho they can both likely hold good up to 300Nm, but not sure about going 300+...

A fellow Slovenian. Zdravo Your name gave it away tho. I was wondering if you ever made any logs via OBD of the timing advance. If you would log the events, it would clearly show up as a retard during the whole faulty/slip sequence. And which would even further prove your theory, which I am inclined to agree with, because some knock sensors can be over sensitive (or actually the software controlling/listening to it), and looks like these TSI's might not be an exception.

Fabia hatch, 1.2 TSI 90 Ambition Race blue Full size spare wheel Swing radio 6 years full warranty. Build on March 24, 2017 and delivered and registered on June 2nd, 2017. Ordered the car from the existing stock. Done 5000 quite dynamic miles on it so far and it drives like a champ. Except a flat tire from driving over a nail 3 days after delivery, but that cant be blamed on the car. Hasnt "eaten" even a drop of oil yet (weekly checks), which was very surprising to me, given that I was a Renault owner for 8 years prior to this great Fabia. I was inspired for Skoda by my dad, who owned a new 98 Octavia (1.8 20V 125bhp) and had it for 14 years and we all loved it. But 5 years ago he switched over to Chevrolet Aveo (1.4 16V 101bhp) in good hope, but now regrets he didnt go for a Skoda. Even being 10hp short, my Fabia "out drags" that Aveo all day any day. Thank you torque. Lately I am learning more about my car via the ECU data, but more will be said in a separate thread one day when I finish my tests. Regards

Wow good job with the mods! Thats a sweet looking ride. What paint did you use for the calipers? Anything special? I was thinking of painting mine aswell.

Not to make a whole scientific study out of the spare wheel topic, but if its the small "wheelbarrow" spare, as I call it, then that is of course speed limited. Otherwise, if its the full sized wheel, than it can handle any speed that it was designed for, as if it were on the car with delivery. You just need some caution if the dimensions of the spare rim/tire combo are not the same (but the total size should be +/- 1%) as the other 3 wheels on the car. Rotation arrows... My Mk3 was delivered with Bridgestone B250 tires, which also dont have rotation arrows, because the tire is "rotation neutral". Meaning that the thread pattern is designed that way, so you can flip the tire however you want, and the thread profile stays the same or very similar. And my spare wheel was a full sized steel rim, exactly the same dimensions as the wheels on the car, and with the same tire. I had no speed stickers on it, because it was an exact copy of the fitted wheels, so I can swap it on either side and I am good to go. Actually had to do that just 3 days after delivery because I ran over a nail with the front left wheel... :( Speed stickers generally shouldnt be applied if the spare is an exact copy of the fitted wheels. But if you have some 16/17" alloys on, and a 15" spare steel wheel, than it would be smart to warn the driver via stickers, not to drive too "spirited", since a different wheel/tire combo can compromise handling/stability at higher speeds. But in reality it shouldnt be a problem if the width/rim dimensions differ, since it will only be used to get you around until you can fix the bad tire. But I guess that some dealers dont want to risk anything and rather put the stickers on. So the stickers on the full sized spare wheel are not because the wheel couldnt handle it, but because it can compromise handling/stability of the car if its not exactly the same as the fitted wheels, so its advised not to race with it. I am still driving with my spare wheel on, and it goes like a champ. The word "spare" gives it a negative label, like its something bad, when in my case its exactly the same wheel as the rest of the bunch on the car. I have now already put winter rubber on all 5 wheels, so the spare will also be useful in winter. And I will leave the winter tire on, so it can be used in any road condition (summer/winter). I will also keep this wheel (175/70r14) as a spare when I put 15" alloys on the car in spring. And if some of you also have the spare wheel exactly the same as those fitted on the car, than you also dont need spees stickers on it. If everything is the same (rim/tire combo) and if the rubber is not too old, it will naturally "break-in" like any other tire via normal driving, if there is a new tire on the spare. So unless you are going to fit the full size spare wheel and go on a track day, chances are you wont even notice much (or any) difference. Just make sure to check on it once in a while if the pressure is good, and if it is in good condition, while its is sitting in the trunk, waiting for its turn to shine. Cheers.