Bap33

Is it a L&K ? If yes, curious to see a rear bumper diffusor from the Sportline version. Did the L&K standard spec. has changed on L&K or did you replace it on your own already?

@coppertop You can download the workshop manuals from cardiagn.com. Just look for "Maintenance" & "Brake system" chapters... You'll find the operating process to replace them...

Also interested, if you can share the link...

Nice pic again ! Thanks for sharing!

@eurotripwagenSorry, my question was too fuzzy... Of course a Superb Mk3 is not meant for raceways... I was just curious of what rough time could be achieved on a lap, just to assess how this "sleeper" could surprise some other drivers...

@eurotripwagen Nice 2nd pic! What is your personal best on the Nordschleife with your Mk3?

It's a point of view. May be considering many Sportscars or Supercars are also AWD or 4WD could help changing your mind. Some examples: Audi R8, Lamborghini Aventador, Porsche Carrera 4S, Bentley Continental GT, Aston Martin DB11 AMR... None are meant for Off-road...

@eurotripwagen Was it with DCC in Sport mode? I'm impressed by the lentgh difference on both front shock absorbers. OK I know it's a question of mass transfer... but nevertheless awesome.

Hi all, Getting back to this post... Here are some news. My father has finally replaced the coolant tank and changed the coolant fluid. Step 1: poor some cleaning agent in the tank and follow instructions (usually drive ~50km) Step 2: scavange the old dirty fluid. Note: Use of a compressor (set @ 1.2 - 1.4 bar max) will help a lot to flush the remaining coolant in the radiator completely. Step 3: remove the old coolant tank and clean it (white alcool vinegar helps removing the main deposits on the tank walls.) Step 4: Put old tank back in place. Step 5: Fill the cooling system with demineralized water. Step 6: Run the engine long enough to let the demineralized water go into all parts of the system Go to step 2 and repeat 2-3 times. (steps 3 & 4 can be skipped, when repeating the process). Step 7: Remove the old tank Step 8: Install the new tank (5Q0 121 407T - without any silikat bag in it). Step 9: Fill with 7.6l of G13. Note: Actually P/N of a 5l can is G12E 040 A3. It's already diluted to resist down to -25°C. That's fine four our west european latitudes. Everything looks OK now. He will still check the coolant color some time to time... Some pics: Old tank before cleaning: Old coolant (No, it's not apricot juice! ): Old tank, and its bl**dy silikat bag: New tank ('mit Silikat' indication has disappeared): New coolant can: Hope this helps... Take care and stay safe.

The slight detail that makes ALL the difference!

Here is the code, I've read somewhere in the numerous pages from this thread: 09 Electr. contr > Security Access – 16 : 31347 > Adaptation 10 - Select channel "(4)-Leuchte27NSL RC6-Lichtfunktion A 27" Go to "LICHTFUNKTION" to check the value from right lamp. Note the value down: either "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt und Rechtsverkehr" or "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt". Put the same value in channel "(4)-Leuchte26NSL LA72-Lichtfunktion A 26" Save - Select now channel "Leuchte27NSL RC6-Lasttyp 27" to check the lamp type, which most probably is "32 - allgemeine LED bis 12W". Put the same value in channel "Leuchte26NSL LA72-Dimmwert AB26" Save - Select channel "Leuchte27NSL RC6-Dimmwert AB27" to check the value (most probably 100). Put the same value in channel "Leuchte26NSL LA72-Dimmwert AB26". Save.

Just search the "VCDS modifications tested and approved" thread or something like that. The 2nd rear fog light can be activated with VCDS for RHD cars , whereas it can't for LHD ones ...

@J.R. Happy to help you for the next time. Thanks for your feedback.

@Phils80 May be as for Windows, they don't remove unused code lines on the new SW version. It's cheaper for development costs.

@MAlex I fact, it was a gift (thus no link to share, sorry). It was a full case. But I've just taken the chrome parts from the 'Ali' key to install them on the OEM key, Indeed the OEM key is a better quality one regarding the buttons and adjustments. I only used one trick on the OEM key to remove the lower part, since it's fixed with a very thin torx screw. I've filed a 1.5mm diameter nail to give it a kind of hex-drive shape. ;) Note: the 'Ali' key is not a Skoda one, but a VW one (it's delivered with a small logo sticker). To remove the Skoda logo, I've warmed it a bit (I simply rubbed it with a smooth clothe to soften the glue) and used a thin scalpel to unstick it. ;)

I've upgraded a 2nd key for my kessy to get chromed parts as the 1st key... Bought on Ali... Before (3rd key actually) / After (2nd key)... Also installed screw caps (also from Ali) on 4 door hinges :

Hi all, I had my windscreen replaced some months ago by my local dealer. Everything went well, except... I didn't noticed they had broken (and glued to hide their mistake 🤬) the retainer for park tickets! Since, I was not able to prove this several months later, I've bought a new one to replace it on my own. A good opportunity to make a tutorial. P/N : 3V0 867 333 - 0.72€ First of all, wash your hands before starting to avoid dirty finger prints on the trim panel, especially if you have light grey or 'ivory' interior, To remove the A-pillar trim panel, use a large and flat lever (a wooden spatula should be ok too ). Insert it on the upper part between the door seal and the trim panel, so that you can push approximately the center part of the panel on the rear side to unclip it: Then repeat this at middle height of the trim panel to keep on uncliping the trim panel. In red circles below, the 2 clips once the trim panel is uncliped. Now, you just need to pull the trim panel upward to remove it completely. Once this is done, if you have a sun roof, start uncliping the water drain hose of the sunroof (red circle), to get a better access to the spreader rivet which fixes the park tickets retainer (both in blue rectangle): Then you just need to pull the spreader rivet head (if necessary, use a small fork ;)): Now put the brand new park tickets retainer in place and press the spreader rivet head to fix the retainer. You can now start reinstalling the A-pillar trim panel. Be sure to engage correctly the lower outer corner in the door seal and the lower inner edge in the dashboard: Then get out of the car and stand along the A-pillar and adjust the trim panel height, looking thru the windscreen: Check the lower clip is in front of the slot in the A-pillar. Do the same for the upper clip Then just press firmly the trim panel, starting with the lower clip. If necessary, don't hesitate: A firm hit with your closed fist 😁! Press the trim panel at the upper side to completely clip it. You may then have to make some slight adjustments to get a nice positionning (no bump, no dent under your fingers, when sliding your hand along the trim panel). Done! 😎

Hi all The Superb Mk3 AWD is fitted with a 5th generation Haldex. Regarding VAG Group, and Skoda in particular, it also equips: Octavia 3, Superb 2, Karoq, Kodiaq. It may also apply to Scala and Kamiq, unless they're equipped with 6th generation. I actually don't know for these latter. Since I have limited trust in garages in my neighborhood and because I like 'DIYing' on my car, I've decided to change the oil of my Haldex system on my own. If one follows Skoda recommendations, workshop manuals (see cardiagn.com) only mention a simple oil replacement every 3 years and that's it! But when you start diving into documentations or in youtube videos about 5th gen Haldex, you can notice that the oil pump has an intern strainer, which trends to get really dirty, whereas it's never cleaned ! Hence, here is this humble tutorial ! I apologize, if there are any vocabulary issues... I'm French. Firstly, here are all elements, that we're going to look at: #13 : Bleeder screw (M10x30) - P/N N 910 827 01 (tightening torque 38 Nm for Superb Mk3, but on other VAG model it may be 32Nm - Have a look to the workshop manual corresponding to your car. See cardiagn.com) #14 : Filler screw (M10x1x10) - P/N N 902 818 02 (tightening torque 15 Nm) #3 : Retaining screw (M6X35) for the Haldex Control Unit - P/N N 105 540 05 (tightening torque 9,5 Nm) #11 : Retaining screw (M6X35) for the Haldex hydraulic pump - P/N N 105 540 05 (tightening torque 9,5 Nm) #9 : O-rings for the pump - P/N 0CQ 598 305 (⚠️Note : This P/N is a kit, which includes both O-rings, but also both retaining screw #11! Don't by these screws twice!) Gear Oil : According to ifinterface.com: P/N G 065 175 A2 or According to what dealer sold me: P/N G 60 175 A2 - 850 ml (~29.9 fl oz) By the way, don't forget to check that the oil can actually contains 850ml through the gauge on the side of the can. Indeed, just for the short story, the oil can I had bought only contained 750ml, though brand new and still crimped . I had to go back to the dealer to exchange the oil can. The requested volume for the maintenance operation is usually around 700-720 ml (24.6-25.3 fl oz), thus it leaves little room for error (and even less if the can is not filled correctly). The total bill was ~75 € for all parts (without screws #3, which you don't need to change). - Difficulty : 2 - Time needed : 1h30 approx. - Number of person needed : 1 - Necessary tools : ¤ Screws #3 and #11 : Torx T30 or 10mm Hex socket, if you don't have Torx ¤ Screw #13 : 8mm Hex ¤ Screw #14 : 5 mm Hex ¤ For Hydraulic pump strainer screws : Torx T10 ¤ Ratchet or classic wrenches for disassembly ¤ Torque wrench(es) to apply specified torques: (9,5 / 15 / 38 Nm) ¤ Short and intermediate extensions for ratchet or torque wrenches to enable easier access to screws ¤ A small flat screwdriver ¤ Oil drip tray ¤ Rags ¤ 1 wooden toothpick ¤ Lifting means ¤ Syringe for oil filling Dealing with the syringe, I've bought this one for 20-25€ on Amazon. It makes the job perfectly! Step #0 : Preparation You need to lift the car high enough to get under the car and to get enough space to move your arms comfortably. In my case, 370mm (~14.5") of ground clearance were enough. Note: Though you've lifted the car, it needs to remain horizontal to make a proper filling with right oil level (see step 5). If this case, I had to compensate the natural slope of the ground. Step #1 : Oil draining Start with the filler screw (#14 / blue square) removal for more safety. Indeed, if it's stuck, you won't be "snooked", with a completely empty Haldex oil tank and no way to refill it. Once you've removed the filler screw. Don't get rid of it immediately. You'll need it again temporarily for Step #4! Now, you can remove the bleeder screw (#13 / red circle). There's no difficulty to remove these 2 screws. There are 2 good news for this step: - The drain screw is long enough, so that you won't get surprised, when the thread gets totally disengaged from the housing. - Even if the drain screw has an horizontal axis, there's only a small quantity of oil, and since it is very fluid, it flows well vertically from the edge of the hole. Little chance of getting trapped with the oil, which flows suddenly and farther than the drip tray. Phew! However, it takes several minutes to really let all the oil drain: Step #2 : Hydraulic pump removal Whereas oil is still dripping, start removing 2 retaining screws (#3) for the Haldex Control Unit. They are quite easy to access with a small 1/4'" ratchet. After that, you can rotate the Haldex Control Unit, to bring the connectors on the top upside down. This simple operation will help you saving a huuuuuuge amount of time ! But this tip is explained / told nowhere!!! Otherwise, you will have to disconnect the pump connector 'blind'... And if you do this operation for the first time, You hardly understand how to proceed. Decency leads me to shut up the time that I spent trying to remove this µ%£$@&# connector before I changed my mind on the operating process. Pump connector before Control Unit removal : Once the 2 retaining screws of the Control Unit have been removed, you can easily access to the connector: Now simply insert a small screwdriver in the notch (red circle) and push in the arrow direction. Very simple... Then, you need to unclip the black plastic wire protection, which keeps the pump wiring away from the propeller shaft. It's clipped in 2 locations on each side of the shaft, You just need to pinch the 2 lugs at their end to make them go back through the hole in the housing. Left side (Control Unit side) : The upper red circle in the mirror shows what you hardly see in the lower dotted circle... It's clearly the circled part, that has to be pinched and then pushed/pulled in the arrow direction. Right side (pump side), just proceed the same way : The pump wire is now fully free. You can now remove the 2 retaining screws (#11) of the hydraulic pump (#10). Very easy too. Warning from this point, it will be 'Apocalypse pump' ! Please keep children and sensitive souls away from following pictures! Pull in the pump axis direction, while rotating it around its axis in one direction and then the other to ease the removal. Be very careful, when the pump is about to get out completely, not to strike the contact surface of the housing, nor to strike the pump strainer. FYI, the strainer is not sold alone. It's sold with the pump, which approximately costs 180-200 € (w/o VAT) ! And there, under your dumbfounded eyes , here is the sinister spectacle that awaits you: A strainer almost entirely clogged with sh**t! And the pump housing is not even better... FYI, this Haldex is only 2.5 years old and has only 45000 km (~28000 mi) on the clock. And considering the way I use my car, I don't think the Haldex faces a heavy duty use. Therefore, as I already mentioned somewhere on this forum, one can only notice that the oil replacement process in the maintenance manual for the Haldex 5th generation is clearly incomplete ! By the way, look at this video below from ~28 mn, you'll see the impact of the strainer cleaning on the pump demand signal ... It's clearly a proof that w/o a strainer cleaning, the pump unnecessarily faces severe conditions and that sooner or latter there's a risk of pump failure... Step #3 : Pump cleaning and reassembly Since the pump is now removed, you need to remove the strainer. Use a Torx T10 for both screws: Then wipe the pump dry with a rag, being careful not to get the dirt into the ports. Fort the strainer, a cleaning with some white spirit and a soft paintbrush. But be careful, not to brush to hard to avoid tearing the strainer mesh, which is very thin!!! Eventually, a simple soaking in a small glass of white wine ... sorry , I mean... White Spirit should help removing most of the dirt and finishing finely with the paintbrush. Let the strainer dry, while you remove both O-rings around the pump, using a wooden toothpick as a lever. It will avoid hurting the grooves. You can now, clean the area between both grooves with white spirit. Once everything is clean, you can mount the strainer back onto the pump. Be careful ⚠️ ! I didn't find any information about their tightening torque. Thus be sure to tighten enough to firmly place the strainer on the pump body (to make a good seal against dirt), but not too hard to avoid risks of cracking the plastic. Shall I remind you the price of the pump, just in case ?!? Now, pour some drops of fresh oil in a small container. By the way, FYI : Haldex used Oil 2.5 years old & 28000 mi on the clock / Haldex fresh oil Put few oil drops on both O-rings to lubricate them and install them onto the pump. Keep using the wooden toothpick if needed. The pump is now ready to be mounted back onto the car : Now, you can clean the housing with rags before putting the pump back in place: Don't forget the bearing surface, where the threads of the retaining screws are located. Here you can see some dirt left, that I removed right after taking the picture... You can now put the pump back into the housing. Be careful, not to pinch both O-rings . Once there's only 5-6mm (1/5 -1/4") between bearing surfaces of the pump and the housing, it gets a bit harder to push in by hand. This is probably caused by O-rings, which may act as a slight "bead" to efficiently seal. You now realize how clever it is, to lubricate both O-rings to prevent them from rolling inside out and to make this operation even more difficult. When the pump stops into the housing, you can put 2 retaining screws back in place (#3 - tightening torque = 9,5 mm) Put the black palstic pump wire protection in the correction position and clip it into both holes. Be careful, you still work 'blind' (unless you have a small mirror) . Reconnect the pump connector on the Haldex Control Unit and rotate the Haldex in its normal position. Watch out to rotate the Control Unit in the correct direction not to twist unnecessarily the pump wire. Put both retaining screws to fix the control unit (#3 - tightening torque = 9,5 Nm). For the lower screw, the propeller shaft flector is slightly in the way and leads you to put the bit with a small angle. But you can still manage to have enough grip with the bit to tighten. You can now install the new bleeder screw (#13 - tightening torque = 38 Nm). Step #4 : Oil filling According to the workshop manual, the filling shall be performed with an oil temperature between 20°C and 40°C (68°F / 104°F). If the ambient temperature is to low, put the oil can in a bucket filled with hot water for a while to bring the oil at the right temperature. You can now inject fresh oil in the filling hole (see blue square, on the 5th picture) with the syringe. You have to fill with oil, until it overflows. This should be approximately 650ml (~22 fl oz). Put the OLD filler screw back in place temporarily and tight it slightly. Yes, you've been told to keep it upon removal at step #1! Do you remember? ! Etape 5 : Oil level adjustment and ending Start the engine and let it run for ~1mn, to let the hydraulic pump fill with oil correctly. Shut the engine down, then remove the old filler screw again (#14 / still the blue square on the 5th picture ). Top up with oil until it overflows again, and you can put the new filler screw to finalize the operation (#14 - tightening torque 15 Nm). That's it! Fresh oil! Clean pump strainer! Happy Skoda owner! ... You can put the car back onto the floor now ! Now it's up to you!