Bap33

Nice! I may buy the same rear bumper diffusor on superskoda.com in case I make/get ugly scratches on mine (w/o chrome lids).

OK, then the standard L&K may have changed to include this rear bumper diffusor with a chrome lid, which is much more consistent with other chrome lids on a L&K. Enjoy your new toy!

Is it a L&K ? If yes, curious to see a rear bumper diffusor from the Sportline version. Did the L&K standard spec. has changed on L&K or did you replace it on your own already?

@coppertop You can download the workshop manuals from cardiagn.com. Just look for "Maintenance" & "Brake system" chapters... You'll find the operating process to replace them...

Also interested, if you can share the link...

Nice pic again ! Thanks for sharing!

@eurotripwagenSorry, my question was too fuzzy... Of course a Superb Mk3 is not meant for raceways... I was just curious of what rough time could be achieved on a lap, just to assess how this "sleeper" could surprise some other drivers...

@eurotripwagen Nice 2nd pic! What is your personal best on the Nordschleife with your Mk3?

It's a point of view. May be considering many Sportscars or Supercars are also AWD or 4WD could help changing your mind. Some examples: Audi R8, Lamborghini Aventador, Porsche Carrera 4S, Bentley Continental GT, Aston Martin DB11 AMR... None are meant for Off-road...

@eurotripwagen Was it with DCC in Sport mode? I'm impressed by the lentgh difference on both front shock absorbers. OK I know it's a question of mass transfer... but nevertheless awesome.

Hi all, Getting back to this post... Here are some news. My father has finally replaced the coolant tank and changed the coolant fluid. Step 1: poor some cleaning agent in the tank and follow instructions (usually drive ~50km) Step 2: scavange the old dirty fluid. Note: Use of a compressor (set @ 1.2 - 1.4 bar max) will help a lot to flush the remaining coolant in the radiator completely. Step 3: remove the old coolant tank and clean it (white alcool vinegar helps removing the main deposits on the tank walls.) Step 4: Put old tank back in place. Step 5: Fill the cooling system with demineralized water. Step 6: Run the engine long enough to let the demineralized water go into all parts of the system Go to step 2 and repeat 2-3 times. (steps 3 & 4 can be skipped, when repeating the process). Step 7: Remove the old tank Step 8: Install the new tank (5Q0 121 407T - without any silikat bag in it). Step 9: Fill with 7.6l of G13. Note: Actually P/N of a 5l can is G12E 040 A3. It's already diluted to resist down to -25°C. That's fine four our west european latitudes. Everything looks OK now. He will still check the coolant color some time to time... Some pics: Old tank before cleaning: Old coolant (No, it's not apricot juice! ): Old tank, and its bl**dy silikat bag: New tank ('mit Silikat' indication has disappeared): New coolant can: Hope this helps... Take care and stay safe.

The slight detail that makes ALL the difference!

Here is the code, I've read somewhere in the numerous pages from this thread: 09 Electr. contr > Security Access – 16 : 31347 > Adaptation 10 - Select channel "(4)-Leuchte27NSL RC6-Lichtfunktion A 27" Go to "LICHTFUNKTION" to check the value from right lamp. Note the value down: either "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt und Rechtsverkehr" or "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt". Put the same value in channel "(4)-Leuchte26NSL LA72-Lichtfunktion A 26" Save - Select now channel "Leuchte27NSL RC6-Lasttyp 27" to check the lamp type, which most probably is "32 - allgemeine LED bis 12W". Put the same value in channel "Leuchte26NSL LA72-Dimmwert AB26" Save - Select channel "Leuchte27NSL RC6-Dimmwert AB27" to check the value (most probably 100). Put the same value in channel "Leuchte26NSL LA72-Dimmwert AB26". Save.

Just search the "VCDS modifications tested and approved" thread or something like that. The 2nd rear fog light can be activated with VCDS for RHD cars , whereas it can't for LHD ones ...

@J.R. Happy to help you for the next time. Thanks for your feedback.

@Phils80 May be as for Windows, they don't remove unused code lines on the new SW version. It's cheaper for development costs.

@MAlex I fact, it was a gift (thus no link to share, sorry). It was a full case. But I've just taken the chrome parts from the 'Ali' key to install them on the OEM key, Indeed the OEM key is a better quality one regarding the buttons and adjustments. I only used one trick on the OEM key to remove the lower part, since it's fixed with a very thin torx screw. I've filed a 1.5mm diameter nail to give it a kind of hex-drive shape. ;) Note: the 'Ali' key is not a Skoda one, but a VW one (it's delivered with a small logo sticker). To remove the Skoda logo, I've warmed it a bit (I simply rubbed it with a smooth clothe to soften the glue) and used a thin scalpel to unstick it. ;)

I've upgraded a 2nd key for my kessy to get chromed parts as the 1st key... Bought on Ali... Before (3rd key actually) / After (2nd key)... Also installed screw caps (also from Ali) on 4 door hinges :

Hi, Superb Mk3 (including MY2017) has been certified with 8Jx18 ET44 rims. The corresponding OEM tyre size is 235/45/18 94W.

The most surprising to me, is that you can activate the rear left fog light on a RHD car, whereas, you can't activate the rear right fog light on a LHD car... I don't really understand why... the only solution seems to plug the rear right fog light on onto the left one with wires... Not tried yet...

Activating the 2nd rear fog light seems to work fine on RHD cars, but it doesn't on LHD ones...

@AidanF Nice job!

For the water pump, I've just remembered this thread on the Octavia Mk3 : Since some models of Superb Mk3 have the same expansion bottle and the same G13+ 'Mit Silikat', it may explain the water pump failure...

This other one may help too: ´Help function’ often gives good tips... 😉

I did. I like this touch of chrome, that suits with the original chrome lids of the L&K version. Sticking this kind of accessory is not initially meant to hide something, just to protect and improving the appearance (depending on one’s tastes). You seem very suspicious. The thing is you can never be sure, when you buy a second hand car... Anyway, even with a brand new car, you can’t be 100% sure either... Wrong batch on a component may happen... (This is may be the case with the water pump, nothing more...) My grand dad says sometimes: no risk, no fun... 😉