Bap33

@newbie69 Hi, coming back to this discussion: I've released the tutorial for brake fluid change: Enjoy!

@Jim Reire Though I did not try to remove the strainer, to me, what you think to be a hole, is a kind of well, because it's a common part for several VAG vehicles. Some of them effectively may have a brake fluide level sensor. This 'hole' allow this sensor to plunge quite deep for "low level" detection. (My wife's Audi Q3 has this kind of sensor)... Dealing with the bleeder kit now, you've understood everything. I've written the tutorial, just have a look, here:

Hi all ! I've changed the brake fluid on my Superb Mk3 few weeks ago. I fumbled a bit, but the maintenance manual found on cardiagn.com helped me a lot! Requested parts : - 1,5 to 2l of DOT4 brake fluid. Don't forget to get ESP compliant one. - Break cleaning spray - Difficulty level: 2 - Operating time: 1h or may be much more... (see below... ) - Number of operators: 1 - Required tools: ¤ A bleeder kit, including container for used brake fluid. ¤ A syringe (brake fluid resistant) ¤ A wrench of 11 ¤ Torque wrench and socket of 11 ¤ Jack ¤ Cloths ¤ Multigrip pliers ¤ A small torch. Possibly 50 cm of aluminum foil + masking tape ... (you will understand below) Tools: I've bought the following brake fluid bleeder kit: It can be found under different names of resellers and on different well known online shopping sites for ~ 55 to 60 €. A little tip, when making the choice, look at the opinions of buyers, because there are several diameters (even if there is a standard for European vehicles). For the one I chose, there were a few previous buyers who had used it on VAG vehicles. A good guarantee to avoid any bad surprises... A very simple and useful improvement before starting: make graduations on the used fluid container: A graduated beaker, an indelible marker and a strip of scotch tape (to mitigate risk of erasing by rubbing (Skoda... Simply clever! )). Well... I may drink half of pint or a soda can from time to time, but assess 20 or 30cl just in a glance, is way over what I'm able to do... or ... I should drink more often ... Well, here at least , one knows how much fluid comes out ! I did the same thing on the bleeder tank, to be able to asses the remaining quantity before I start flushing the last caliper: It prevents any air from entering the brake fluid tank . Otherwise, you may need to repeat the process on this caliper. Dealing the syringe, I've bought this one for ~20-25€ (also on a well know shopping website) : 1st Step: Preparation. First, check that the dip tube in the bleeder tank is correctly set and goes deep enough to the bottom to avoid any risk of defusing the system. The bleeder tank must then be filled with 1.5 to 2l of brake fluid. If you fill it with only 1.5l, place the tank so that the dip tube is really at the low point (not obvious in the engine bay, that it is perfectly horizontal, especially if you remove the wheels and use a jack) Keep the new brake fluid cans, once you've poured the brake fluid into the bleeder tank. You'll need them to collect the old brake fluid to bring it to a recycling center. Once here, start pumping to pressurize the bleeder system (still NOT connected to the brake fluid tank of the car) I've set the pressure ~ 1.2-1.4 bar. This is more than sufficient, even if the system is can be set up to 4 bar. Anyway, above 1.2 bar, pumping starts getting a little harder. Wait for ~30s and check there's no leaking. The pressure shall remain steady. If any leak appears, just tighten the bleeder tank cap a little bit (use multigrip pliers if necessary). When there's no leak anymore, press the pressure relief valve to make the pressure drop down. Now you can remove the brake fluid tank cap. Remove some brake fluid using the syringe, until the level gets down to the lower part of the yellow strainer. Then put the adapter cap onto the tank and tighten it firmly (with your hand is enough. And that's a good point, given the poor accessibility ). You can now connect the hose to the adapter cap: Pressurize the system again and make sure that there is no leak around the adapter plug on the brake fluid tank. (no small bubble at the bottom of the adapter cap). 2nd Step: Flush the calipers The bleeding order is the usual one: 1 - Rear Right / 2 - Rear Left / 3 - Front Right / 4 - Front Left. Considering it was the first time I flushed the brake fluid on a car, I rather removed the wheels for a better accessibility. But it should be feasible to do it without removing the wheels. In this case I would recommend to protect the alloy wheel with aluminium foil stuck with maksing tape (since very easy to remove). This is to avoid accidental damage on the rim paint. Therefore, without disassembly, we can estimate the required time to 1 hour. If you remove the 4 wheels, it is rather 2 hours. The bleeder screw is on the upper inner face of the rear calipers. It's now time to remove the protective cap from the bleeder screw. Then install the old brake fluid container, the small chain helps making the container safer (no reversal possible) : Before starting, spray some brake cleaner on the caliper and on the bleeder screw. Fit the rubber end of the collecting container securely, then loosen the bleed screw with the 11 mm open end wrench And... Here we go ... No panic, it flows very slowly ... With 1.2-1.4 bar, it allows you to take time .... At the beginning, the used brake fluid is quite dark, well ... here not that much. I really expected worse. Then, it cleared up progressively until it was really very clear ... So clear that I even said to myself: "crazy, it's even clearer than a Bud light or a Tsingtao!". .. That is to say ! Well, I give it to you, the used fluid wasn't dark as a Guinness either ! Check there's no air bubble in the system all along the bleeding operation. The recommended volumes for calipers are identical for both manual gearbox and DSG gearbox. Rear Calipers : 0,3L each Front Calipers : 0,2L each In the maintenance manual, you can also find the recommendation to bleed the clutch slave cylinder for manual gearbox only (with 0.15l). But after discussion with a professional, this seems very rarely done and is more risky since it may introduce bubbles into the brake system. So for manual gearbox owners, I let you decide to do it or not. Note that the maintenance manual does not specify whether these are minimum volumes or whether they already include margins. Even if the Brake fluid was already the right color well before reaching the recommended volume, I had rather to let it flow a little more. Therefore 1.5L is really a minimum quantity to buy! Once you think this is OK, simply tighten the bleeder screw gently with the 11-wrench. Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw and tighten at 10 Nm with the torque wrench. N.B.: If you haven't removed the wheels, it does not seem easy to access the bleeder screw with a torque wrench, unless you have a socket wrench (fork type)... Once the first rear caliper has been flushed, old brake fluid color is easy to check as the used container is being filled. When the 2 rear calipers are flushed, empty the old fluid container into the new brake flluid cans (but empty), which you kept from the beginning. This container has a too small capacity to process the 4 calipers, indeed For the front axle, the bleed screw is approximately at the same place, on the inner upper face of the caliper: 3rd step: Level adjustment Once the 4 calipers have been processed, the pressure in the supply tank must be released using the pressure relief valve. You can then disconnect the quick connector from the adapter on the car brake fluid tank. Warning! Pay attention to possible brake fluid drops, when you remove the whole system. Brake fluid is very corrosive on paintwork!!! Adjust the brake fluid level in the tank to set it between min. and max. marks. Don't forget to take the discs & brake pads wear into account (as mentioned in the workshop manual)! This being said, I've checked the discs and pads, they are at least 5mm above the minimum thickness and I'm almost certain that I'll have changed the brake fluid before the brake discs or pads. ! Use a small torch to try seeing the fluid level in the tank. But not that easy... When done, you can think of "finalization". Replace the brake fluid tank cap. 4th step: retarting Now everything has been tighten or closed, press the brake pedal several times. It should not go down more than 1/3 of its stroke before you feel resistance. Otherwise, the calipers must be flushed again, because bubbles may remain in the system. Note : the brake pedal may be hard with a very short stroke (1cm). But when you think you've reached the stroke end, you may notice a curious phenomenon: the brake pedal slowly fade under your foot ! Don't panic, it should go away after a test drive! A test drive will now allow checking the correct operation of the ABS system and that there is no obvious asymmetry when braking. Before starting, check that the brakes work from very low speeds. Then brake strongly to test the ABS unit and check it triggers normally. Normally, if you get here, everything is successful! Well done ! If you want workshop manuals, for maintenance and brakes, you can download them for cardiagn.com Enjoy !

@Jim Reire I've replaced the brake fluid few weeks ago. You don't need to remove this strainer. On the contrary, the maintenance manual (downloaded from cardiagn.com) recommends to leave it the fluid tank. I personnally leftit in the tank and no problem with it. I've used a brake fluid bleeder kit like this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hand-Brake-Fluid-Bleeder-Bleeding/dp/B076WZ8D6L/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=brake+fluid+bleeder+kit&qid=1599954258&sr=8-9 No issue. I've already released a tutorial on a french forum. I just need to translate it, if needed.

@D402 Good tips have to be shared !

May be a double ckeck would be safer...

Costs breaking I guess...

Are really sure for rear fog lights? H8 may be really too powerful. I would more bet on P21W or PY21W...

Note, in this wokshop manual dedicated to brakes (unless this is in the maintenance chapter, I have a slight doubt), you will also find the spec for discs and pads minimum thickness. Very useful for a quick check!

@newbie69 My mistake... You're right. I may have lost something in the translation...

You may find your question in the workshop manuals, that you can download from cardiagn.com. There's a whole workshop manual for brakes.

Actually, it depends on what you want. I know 3 Apps. - Skoda Connect: Which give you a status on the vehicle at any time whatever the distance. It can also be linked to your agenda to organize your daily trip (or longer ones). - Skoda Service: to schedule appointment for services (e.g.: MOT) or to get online quotations. - MySkoda: Includes apparently the same functions as 'Skoda Service' and contains also indications from user's manual (such as warning lamps explanation), a parkinng assistant (to remind you where you've parked or time left on the park meter...). This App can also be linked to 'Skoda Connect'. Quite complete App indeed. There probably others Apps...

Sorry, silly question from me, since we're talking about retrofitting...

Do you think, it is possible to activate this animation on Superb Mk 3.0 ?

@Warrior193 I write "wooden spatula" and you read "kitchen spatula"... funny! I also have a wooden spatula such as an ice scrapper to defrost my windshield in winter. Better, I don't catch SWMBO using it for cooking!

A bit expensive, but the official Ross-tech VCDS version is reliable and it includes ross-tech assistance and an important forum + unlimited free SW updates. I'm fully satisfied with it.

Same values found in Skoda Maintenance manual on cardiagn.com.

Nice, how do you do that?

Today I've replaced the park tickets retainer on the windscreen. Indeed, it had been broken (and glued to hide the mistake 🤬) upon windscreen replacement several months ago. A good opportunity to write a "How to..." thread to explain the way to: - remove the A-pillar trim panel - replace the park tickets retainer.

Hi all, I had my windscreen replaced some months ago by my local dealer. Everything went well, except... I didn't noticed they had broken (and glued to hide their mistake 🤬) the retainer for park tickets! Since, I was not able to prove this several months later, I've bought a new one to replace it on my own. A good opportunity to make a tutorial. P/N : 3V0 867 333 - 0.72€ First of all, wash your hands before starting to avoid dirty finger prints on the trim panel, especially if you have light grey or 'ivory' interior, To remove the A-pillar trim panel, use a large and flat lever (a wooden spatula should be ok too ). Insert it on the upper part between the door seal and the trim panel, so that you can push approximately the center part of the panel on the rear side to unclip it: Then repeat this at middle height of the trim panel to keep on uncliping the trim panel. In red circles below, the 2 clips once the trim panel is uncliped. Now, you just need to pull the trim panel upward to remove it completely. Once this is done, if you have a sun roof, start uncliping the water drain hose of the sunroof (red circle), to get a better access to the spreader rivet which fixes the park tickets retainer (both in blue rectangle): Then you just need to pull the spreader rivet head (if necessary, use a small fork ;)): Now put the brand new park tickets retainer in place and press the spreader rivet head to fix the retainer. You can now start reinstalling the A-pillar trim panel. Be sure to engage correctly the lower outer corner in the door seal and the lower inner edge in the dashboard: Then get out of the car and stand along the A-pillar and adjust the trim panel height, looking thru the windscreen: Check the lower clip is in front of the slot in the A-pillar. Do the same for the upper clip Then just press firmly the trim panel, starting with the lower clip. If necessary, don't hesitate: A firm hit with your closed fist 😁! Press the trim panel at the upper side to completely clip it. You may then have to make some slight adjustments to get a nice positionning (no bump, no dent under your fingers, when sliding your hand along the trim panel). Done! 😎

Maybe the technician has flashed the control unit to reinstall the right SW version...

@standy If your have ACC, the TJA is already enabled and activated, as soon as both ACC and Line Assist are activated. It's not uniquely linked to the camera. No idea about the eyelashes... Sorry.

Woow ! 😮 I'm really impressed that someone is interested in knowing the fuel gauge calibration accuracy to that point! On my side, I've activated the "Refuel quantity on the Maxidot" but it's just for fun... Actually, I don't really pay attention to the fuel gauge. The remaining autonomy is a much more relevant information for me. It talks much better to my brain than how many liters I've burnt. Additionally since the fuel autonomy is regularly refreshed depending on the way I've driven for the last kilomters, it talks even better to me. 😄 I only know the tank volume to assess how much I will approximately fill in next time and that's it 🙂!

Exactly that!

After a 2-day test, this setting is a bit extreme, my S&S was almost full time disabled. Then I test 9.0V for 2 days again, but it was still too high. I'm currently using a 8,5V setting for about 1 month. The S&S is way less "pervasive". I've almost reached a S&S behavior that suits me. I'm going to grope again around this 8.5V value (may be 8.6V) to get something better.