Bap33

@coppertop You can download the workshop manuals from cardiagn.com. Just look for "Maintenance" & "Brake system" chapters... You'll find the operating process to replace them...

Also interested, if you can share the link...

Nice pic again ! Thanks for sharing!

@eurotripwagenSorry, my question was too fuzzy... Of course a Superb Mk3 is not meant for raceways... I was just curious of what rough time could be achieved on a lap, just to assess how this "sleeper" could surprise some other drivers...

@eurotripwagen Nice 2nd pic! What is your personal best on the Nordschleife with your Mk3?

It's a point of view. May be considering many Sportscars or Supercars are also AWD or 4WD could help changing your mind. Some examples: Audi R8, Lamborghini Aventador, Porsche Carrera 4S, Bentley Continental GT, Aston Martin DB11 AMR... None are meant for Off-road...

@eurotripwagen Was it with DCC in Sport mode? I'm impressed by the lentgh difference on both front shock absorbers. OK I know it's a question of mass transfer... but nevertheless awesome.

Hi all, Getting back to this post... Here are some news. My father has finally replaced the coolant tank and changed the coolant fluid. Step 1: poor some cleaning agent in the tank and follow instructions (usually drive ~50km) Step 2: scavange the old dirty fluid. Note: Use of a compressor (set @ 1.2 - 1.4 bar max) will help a lot to flush the remaining coolant in the radiator completely. Step 3: remove the old coolant tank and clean it (white alcool vinegar helps removing the main deposits on the tank walls.) Step 4: Put old tank back in place. Step 5: Fill the cooling system with demineralized water. Step 6: Run the engine long enough to let the demineralized water go into all parts of the system Go to step 2 and repeat 2-3 times. (steps 3 & 4 can be skipped, when repeating the process). Step 7: Remove the old tank Step 8: Install the new tank (5Q0 121 407T - without any silikat bag in it). Step 9: Fill with 7.6l of G13. Note: Actually P/N of a 5l can is G12E 040 A3. It's already diluted to resist down to -25°C. That's fine four our west european latitudes. Everything looks OK now. He will still check the coolant color some time to time... Some pics: Old tank before cleaning: Old coolant (No, it's not apricot juice! ): Old tank, and its bl**dy silikat bag: New tank ('mit Silikat' indication has disappeared): New coolant can: Hope this helps... Take care and stay safe.

The slight detail that makes ALL the difference!

Here is the code, I've read somewhere in the numerous pages from this thread: 09 Electr. contr > Security Access – 16 : 31347 > Adaptation 10 - Select channel "(4)-Leuchte27NSL RC6-Lichtfunktion A 27" Go to "LICHTFUNKTION" to check the value from right lamp. Note the value down: either "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt und Rechtsverkehr" or "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt". Put the same value in channel "(4)-Leuchte26NSL LA72-Lichtfunktion A 26" Save - Select now channel "Leuchte27NSL RC6-Lasttyp 27" to check the lamp type, which most probably is "32 - allgemeine LED bis 12W". Put the same value in channel "Leuchte26NSL LA72-Dimmwert AB26" Save - Select channel "Leuchte27NSL RC6-Dimmwert AB27" to check the value (most probably 100). Put the same value in channel "Leuchte26NSL LA72-Dimmwert AB26". Save.

Just search the "VCDS modifications tested and approved" thread or something like that. The 2nd rear fog light can be activated with VCDS for RHD cars , whereas it can't for LHD ones ...

@J.R. Happy to help you for the next time. Thanks for your feedback.

@Phils80 May be as for Windows, they don't remove unused code lines on the new SW version. It's cheaper for development costs.

@MAlex I fact, it was a gift (thus no link to share, sorry). It was a full case. But I've just taken the chrome parts from the 'Ali' key to install them on the OEM key, Indeed the OEM key is a better quality one regarding the buttons and adjustments. I only used one trick on the OEM key to remove the lower part, since it's fixed with a very thin torx screw. I've filed a 1.5mm diameter nail to give it a kind of hex-drive shape. ;) Note: the 'Ali' key is not a Skoda one, but a VW one (it's delivered with a small logo sticker). To remove the Skoda logo, I've warmed it a bit (I simply rubbed it with a smooth clothe to soften the glue) and used a thin scalpel to unstick it. ;)

I've upgraded a 2nd key for my kessy to get chromed parts as the 1st key... Bought on Ali... Before (3rd key actually) / After (2nd key)... Also installed screw caps (also from Ali) on 4 door hinges :

Hi, Superb Mk3 (including MY2017) has been certified with 8Jx18 ET44 rims. The corresponding OEM tyre size is 235/45/18 94W.

The most surprising to me, is that you can activate the rear left fog light on a RHD car, whereas, you can't activate the rear right fog light on a LHD car... I don't really understand why... the only solution seems to plug the rear right fog light on onto the left one with wires... Not tried yet...

Activating the 2nd rear fog light seems to work fine on RHD cars, but it doesn't on LHD ones...

@AidanF Nice job!

For the water pump, I've just remembered this thread on the Octavia Mk3 : Since some models of Superb Mk3 have the same expansion bottle and the same G13+ 'Mit Silikat', it may explain the water pump failure...

This other one may help too: ´Help function’ often gives good tips... 😉

I did. I like this touch of chrome, that suits with the original chrome lids of the L&K version. Sticking this kind of accessory is not initially meant to hide something, just to protect and improving the appearance (depending on one’s tastes). You seem very suspicious. The thing is you can never be sure, when you buy a second hand car... Anyway, even with a brand new car, you can’t be 100% sure either... Wrong batch on a component may happen... (This is may be the case with the water pump, nothing more...) My grand dad says sometimes: no risk, no fun... 😉

@newbie69 Hi, coming back to this discussion: I've released the tutorial for brake fluid change: Enjoy!

@Jim Reire Though I did not try to remove the strainer, to me, what you think to be a hole, is a kind of well, because it's a common part for several VAG vehicles. Some of them effectively may have a brake fluide level sensor. This 'hole' allow this sensor to plunge quite deep for "low level" detection. (My wife's Audi Q3 has this kind of sensor)... Dealing with the bleeder kit now, you've understood everything. I've written the tutorial, just have a look, here:

Hi all ! I've changed the brake fluid on my Superb Mk3 few weeks ago. I fumbled a bit, but the maintenance manual found on cardiagn.com helped me a lot! Requested parts : - 1,5 to 2l of DOT4 brake fluid. Don't forget to get ESP compliant one. - Break cleaning spray - Difficulty level: 2 - Operating time: 1h or may be much more... (see below... ) - Number of operators: 1 - Required tools: ¤ A bleeder kit, including container for used brake fluid. ¤ A syringe (brake fluid resistant) ¤ A wrench of 11 ¤ Torque wrench and socket of 11 ¤ Jack ¤ Cloths ¤ Multigrip pliers ¤ A small torch. Possibly 50 cm of aluminum foil + masking tape ... (you will understand below) Tools: I've bought the following brake fluid bleeder kit: It can be found under different names of resellers and on different well known online shopping sites for ~ 55 to 60 €. A little tip, when making the choice, look at the opinions of buyers, because there are several diameters (even if there is a standard for European vehicles). For the one I chose, there were a few previous buyers who had used it on VAG vehicles. A good guarantee to avoid any bad surprises... A very simple and useful improvement before starting: make graduations on the used fluid container: A graduated beaker, an indelible marker and a strip of scotch tape (to mitigate risk of erasing by rubbing (Skoda... Simply clever! )). Well... I may drink half of pint or a soda can from time to time, but assess 20 or 30cl just in a glance, is way over what I'm able to do... or ... I should drink more often ... Well, here at least , one knows how much fluid comes out ! I did the same thing on the bleeder tank, to be able to asses the remaining quantity before I start flushing the last caliper: It prevents any air from entering the brake fluid tank . Otherwise, you may need to repeat the process on this caliper. Dealing the syringe, I've bought this one for ~20-25€ (also on a well know shopping website) : 1st Step: Preparation. First, check that the dip tube in the bleeder tank is correctly set and goes deep enough to the bottom to avoid any risk of defusing the system. The bleeder tank must then be filled with 1.5 to 2l of brake fluid. If you fill it with only 1.5l, place the tank so that the dip tube is really at the low point (not obvious in the engine bay, that it is perfectly horizontal, especially if you remove the wheels and use a jack) Keep the new brake fluid cans, once you've poured the brake fluid into the bleeder tank. You'll need them to collect the old brake fluid to bring it to a recycling center. Once here, start pumping to pressurize the bleeder system (still NOT connected to the brake fluid tank of the car) I've set the pressure ~ 1.2-1.4 bar. This is more than sufficient, even if the system is can be set up to 4 bar. Anyway, above 1.2 bar, pumping starts getting a little harder. Wait for ~30s and check there's no leaking. The pressure shall remain steady. If any leak appears, just tighten the bleeder tank cap a little bit (use multigrip pliers if necessary). When there's no leak anymore, press the pressure relief valve to make the pressure drop down. Now you can remove the brake fluid tank cap. Remove some brake fluid using the syringe, until the level gets down to the lower part of the yellow strainer. Then put the adapter cap onto the tank and tighten it firmly (with your hand is enough. And that's a good point, given the poor accessibility ). You can now connect the hose to the adapter cap: Pressurize the system again and make sure that there is no leak around the adapter plug on the brake fluid tank. (no small bubble at the bottom of the adapter cap). 2nd Step: Flush the calipers The bleeding order is the usual one: 1 - Rear Right / 2 - Rear Left / 3 - Front Right / 4 - Front Left. Considering it was the first time I flushed the brake fluid on a car, I rather removed the wheels for a better accessibility. But it should be feasible to do it without removing the wheels. In this case I would recommend to protect the alloy wheel with aluminium foil stuck with maksing tape (since very easy to remove). This is to avoid accidental damage on the rim paint. Therefore, without disassembly, we can estimate the required time to 1 hour. If you remove the 4 wheels, it is rather 2 hours. The bleeder screw is on the upper inner face of the rear calipers. It's now time to remove the protective cap from the bleeder screw. Then install the old brake fluid container, the small chain helps making the container safer (no reversal possible) : Before starting, spray some brake cleaner on the caliper and on the bleeder screw. Fit the rubber end of the collecting container securely, then loosen the bleed screw with the 11 mm open end wrench And... Here we go ... No panic, it flows very slowly ... With 1.2-1.4 bar, it allows you to take time .... At the beginning, the used brake fluid is quite dark, well ... here not that much. I really expected worse. Then, it cleared up progressively until it was really very clear ... So clear that I even said to myself: "crazy, it's even clearer than a Bud light or a Tsingtao!". .. That is to say ! Well, I give it to you, the used fluid wasn't dark as a Guinness either ! Check there's no air bubble in the system all along the bleeding operation. The recommended volumes for calipers are identical for both manual gearbox and DSG gearbox. Rear Calipers : 0,3L each Front Calipers : 0,2L each In the maintenance manual, you can also find the recommendation to bleed the clutch slave cylinder for manual gearbox only (with 0.15l). But after discussion with a professional, this seems very rarely done and is more risky since it may introduce bubbles into the brake system. So for manual gearbox owners, I let you decide to do it or not. Note that the maintenance manual does not specify whether these are minimum volumes or whether they already include margins. Even if the Brake fluid was already the right color well before reaching the recommended volume, I had rather to let it flow a little more. Therefore 1.5L is really a minimum quantity to buy! Once you think this is OK, simply tighten the bleeder screw gently with the 11-wrench. Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw and tighten at 10 Nm with the torque wrench. N.B.: If you haven't removed the wheels, it does not seem easy to access the bleeder screw with a torque wrench, unless you have a socket wrench (fork type)... Once the first rear caliper has been flushed, old brake fluid color is easy to check as the used container is being filled. When the 2 rear calipers are flushed, empty the old fluid container into the new brake flluid cans (but empty), which you kept from the beginning. This container has a too small capacity to process the 4 calipers, indeed For the front axle, the bleed screw is approximately at the same place, on the inner upper face of the caliper: 3rd step: Level adjustment Once the 4 calipers have been processed, the pressure in the supply tank must be released using the pressure relief valve. You can then disconnect the quick connector from the adapter on the car brake fluid tank. Warning! Pay attention to possible brake fluid drops, when you remove the whole system. Brake fluid is very corrosive on paintwork!!! Adjust the brake fluid level in the tank to set it between min. and max. marks. Don't forget to take the discs & brake pads wear into account (as mentioned in the workshop manual)! This being said, I've checked the discs and pads, they are at least 5mm above the minimum thickness and I'm almost certain that I'll have changed the brake fluid before the brake discs or pads. ! Use a small torch to try seeing the fluid level in the tank. But not that easy... When done, you can think of "finalization". Replace the brake fluid tank cap. 4th step: retarting Now everything has been tighten or closed, press the brake pedal several times. It should not go down more than 1/3 of its stroke before you feel resistance. Otherwise, the calipers must be flushed again, because bubbles may remain in the system. Note : the brake pedal may be hard with a very short stroke (1cm). But when you think you've reached the stroke end, you may notice a curious phenomenon: the brake pedal slowly fade under your foot ! Don't panic, it should go away after a test drive! A test drive will now allow checking the correct operation of the ABS system and that there is no obvious asymmetry when braking. Before starting, check that the brakes work from very low speeds. Then brake strongly to test the ABS unit and check it triggers normally. Normally, if you get here, everything is successful! Well done ! If you want workshop manuals, for maintenance and brakes, you can download them for cardiagn.com Enjoy !