Ivan8192

I’ve had a few occasions where a reboot of the infotainment unit was required. Can you try a USB memory stick with some music on, to see if plugging that into the socket works? If it does, it is unlikely to be the wiring.

Mine is December 2017 (so MY2018) but may still help you, I don't have SLA: ;SW:3Q0-980-654-H HW:3Q0-980-654-A --- Frt Sens. Drv. Assist ;Component:MQB_B_MFK H07 0272, Coding:020408020000040100062355C150A90098000E100000 ;EV_MFKBoschMQBB,001001,EV_MFKBoschMQBB_001_VW36.rod ;Friday,21,May,2021,14:39:01:56533 (Sorry, not quite same format as others as I just copied it from an admap CSV I did back in May.)

You should test drive a Superb with DCC and without DCC to really feel the difference. Even 15 minutes will be enough to tell you whether DCC is something for you or not.

@AndreasZ We know the Superb isn’t the quietest of the VAG brand range, there are enough threads in here of people adding extra sound insulation, do a search if you are interested in that. It depends on your expectations. I think the thing that is likely to be in the Superb’s favour relative to the BMW (from other comments on Briskoda) is the value for money of the Superb, given the amount of equipment it comes with, particularly an L&K. This is the thing that makes it a great car to drive day after day, particularly with something like an L&K. Full leather, radar cruise control, lane keeping assistance, blind-spot assistance, traffic jam assist, CarPlay, AndroidAuto etc. It would be interesting to know what you get on the similarly priced 5-series, can you share? Canton audio sounds great to most people, I think those who have had higher-end audio systems in the past tend to think it isn’t so good, so that is a very personal thing that you’ll need to compare for yourself. I find DCC gives me enough control over the damper settings for most conditions. And the space inside is great, for passengers and for loads I’m sure others will be along with their observations relative to the 5-series.

@Kenny R Great info - so the alternator is shut down to take load off the engine, improving fuel consumption, once there is “enough” battery charge? And then when braking, the alternator is started up again to provide additional load, which will contribute to the engine braking effect slowing the car?

Deleted double post.

@Kenny R I read this with genuine interest. Does my Superb (150 TDI) with Stop/Start have regenerative braking then? I’d always thought that this needed at least a “mild hybrid” to allow the motor to become a generator under braking. Or is my starter motor also a generator under braking conditions?

1. I ran mine along the passenger (near) side. I don’t get interference. But the presence or absence of interference is also likely to depend on the quality of the dashcam. 2. I think this is referring to some cars having sensors on the back of the rear view mirror, looking forward through the windscreen. You obviously don’t want to stick a dashcam in front of them. The Skoda forward looking sensors are up against the glass of the screen behind the plastic cover so no chance of obstruction. 3. Usual practice is to mount the dashcam on the screen “behind” the rear view mirror so with respect to the line of sight of the driver, it can’t really be seen from a driving position because of being obscured by the rear view mirror. If that is the law, there are lots of people breaking it! Maybe post a link to what you’ve read? Edit: Okay, so a Google search brings up lots of information on the “within 40mm of swept area” and lots of advice about placing it so that it does not obscure the view from your driving position, e.g. https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/cameras/dash-cams-guide-installation/ Does your dashcam come with instructions on placement?

Hi @defiant, I scripted it, see here.

@langers2k Thanks for the info. No, I've not set the auto driving mode colour changes, I had seen the 0-15 settings in the admap, but hadn't looked at them any further. Something else to play with

@Bap33 Here is the script I created for using with VCDScripter, containing the RGB values from @Hdsn555. It is pretty self-explanatory. You can manually set the values using VCDS but I didn't fancy doing it manually so used VCDScripter. Your car is only showing colours 1-10 at the moment because the 11-30 RGB values are all zero by default. Once you start changing these, you will get more colours. I think it needed the car to be switched off for say, 10 seconds, then back on again, for it to start showing more colours in the Settings page, once the changes were made. 30colours_v2.txt

This worked out very well

I haven’t even used the mounting screw, the full size was quite a tight fit anyway. If I hadn’t got the space-saver which I may want to put the foam back into at some point, I would probably have trimmed the foam. But I can cart around a lot more cr*p (spare bulb kit, jump leads, ... you get the idea) inside the wheel without the foam

No, it’s just a FWD L&K 150. Probably country-specific differences in the spare wheel provision. The full-size wheel is a couple of cm proud as yours (originally posted here) so expect wheel well is same.

This is what mine looks like, so have you trimmed the foam down to get it to fit? I didn’t want to do that at the time as it was new and I wanted to be able to put it back with the space saver.

Well that is strange, I could not get it to fit in mine (18”) without it being really proud of the wheel, I shall have to give it another go.

The OEM “foam” moulding will only fit with the 50mph space saver. It won’t fit with a full size spare.

I got these for just that reason, such a faff getting normal snow chains on. Maybe people who live in the Alps do it so often that it is easy for them, but I’ve never found it a great experience putting normal chains on (and getting filthy arms from reaching round the back of the wheel). They’re a bit pricey but dead easy to fit: K34 235/45-18 Thule/Konig K-Summit

Sure, although I could only find this one!

Will the ones on your Passat also fit the Superb then? Is that what you were thinking of doing?

I’ve got the Thule WingBar Edge, I much prefer the flush end look to the sticking-out variety. They’re dead quick to fix (especially when using an electric driver on the long Allen key too), and are low profile so I keep them under the (false) boot floor until I need them. There didn’t seem to be much price difference at the time I bought them between them and other similar quality bars.