Phil-E

That's incorrect. The mechatronics does have a drain plug. Personally if I was doing a fluid change u would do the mechatronics too. https://rallystore.ru/en/obem-masla-v-dsg-7-kak-pomenyat-maslo-v-korobke-dsg-kakoe-maslo-zalivat.html

So in theory then, a driver who has poor forward planning and doesn't let the car coast or decelerate much is more likely to experience problems with the filter.

It's just a newer revision. But still a DQ200 7 speed auto. So the oil and quantities are the same. It's 2 types of oil you need. One for the gearbox and one for the mechatronics.

Interesting to hear the negative feedback on the Pirelli P7 tyres. I had them on my previous car and was very impressed with them. I had the "Blue" version which were double A rated (235/45/17). They were quiet, noticed a boost in economy and grip was very impressive. I could still push the car very hard (a 1700kg convertible with 240bhp and 490nm of torque).

We recently changed cars and unfortunately the car only came with Summer tyres fitted (they were some cheap no-name things anyway). I couldn't be bothered sourcing a second set of wheels for winter tyres and swapping them around all the time so went for all seasons this time. I'm in Germany so I need to have at least tyres that have the alpine symbol on. We live in a pretty flat city, other half works from home and my work is only 6km away so all seasons are just fine. I went for Hankook Kinergy 4S 2 in the end. Got a good deal for 264€ fitted (thats a good deal here and about 100€ than some equivelent Goodyear etc). I had chance to drive them in some warmer weather after being fitted (20c) and was impressed. Driven them in thick snow the other week and the grip was equally impressive. For a fairly mid-range/bidget tyre they're pretty good. Excuse the recording while driving. This is actaully a private road with zero through traffic that leads to my friends farm. Hence zero grit or snow plow. The main road at the end was completely clear! https://youtu.be/fsrntg3qGM4

That's definitely not normal. As I said before the only way you should, under normal circumstances, be able to get it glowing would be under very hard driving for a prolonged time. But 10 minutes after a cold start is not normal at all. I'd suggest the engine needs looking at as the fueling is obviously off somehow causing very high exhaust gas temperatures.

Under what driving conditions? You'd have to have been racing round a racetrack non stop for that to happen.

Have you tried changing the WiFi name? Just a thought. Could be that the car doesn't like the length or characters in the name or something.

I've used a mix of premium and cheap fuels on my 1.4 TSI. Haven't noticed a single difference so I just go for the cheapest I can find at the time (I have an app). I also use the E10 fuel since this also doesn't seem to make a difference compared to E5.

If there's no explicit exclusion of the seat heaters (since they are technically a separate entity to the seats as the pads and wiring harness etc are available as separate parts) then it should be covered. This was a very common issue on my previous car (Saab 9-3). My heated seat was getting very hot on one side. And then stopped working. The element had burnt out and melted the seat inside. Thankfully I was able to replace the heater pad. Hope you get it sorted.

But have you actually gone into the router settings and changed it to WPA2?

Could it be that the car doesn't support the security type that the router uses. Maybe try accessing the router settings and change it to a different protocol. According to the manual the car only supports WPA2.

It's a sound deadening. There should be little black clips that are just pushed into holes under the bonnet.

A quick way would be to park on a flat ground against a wall. The beam cut off should be at the same level. Obviously to accurately check the level you'd need to measure the beam height with the car a certain distance from the wall etc.

Yes I think so. The only thing to be wary of is that it gets tested as part of the MOT. But I seem to think if the tow bar isn't there (removeable) then they can't test it.

Yes. For just a single 7 pin it's more than adequate since there's no massive current being drawn.

If you're fitting a 13 pin then the feed really needs to come from the battery (as per the original tow bar). Since the 13 pin has 2 high current 12v feeds for the caravan battery charging and running the fridge. The 12v socket in the boot won't cut it for that.

The 1.9 is reliable yes. But they were sold under the Greenline name and so have a DPF fitted. And that's the worst possible combo for a DPF is the old PD engine since the injector timing is mechanical they can't control accurately or flexibly enough when fuel is injected to achieve decent Regens. They're also inherently a "dirtier" engine because of this and the DPF needs more frequent Regens than on a CR engine.

It doesn't suffer from the oil issues. But the early ones had timing chain issues. So either a 2011+ car or an earlier one that's (likely) already had a new (revised) chain and tensioner fitted.

I'd say keep looking and try and find a 1.4 TSI? The 1.8 TSI is just a horror. And unless you're doing a lot of journeys where the engine can get up to full operating temperature then the diesel should be avoided otherwise you'll end up with endless DPF Problems.

I couldn't be bothered swapping them over all the time. We have pretty mild winters here and we're not completely reliant on the car and don't do many miles a year. So all seasons suite our needs while still being legal. Edited the link.

Tested out my Hankook all season tyres today. Impressive. Not quite as much bite as my previous full winter tyres but I'll not get stuck and braking was still impressive. Excuse the filming. Was a very quiet side country road with zero through traffic. https://flic.kr/p/2kqgWzn

Ugh. Can't think of anything worse! Lol

Just wanted to add to this topic. I know it's old but in case anyone else is trying to change the bulbs. The above methods of ripping those covers off or removing the arch liners is just mad and way over the top. It actually takes 2 seconds to remove the light units without having to remove any trim at all. Simply take something long and flat (I used a butter knife), shove it in between the inner side of the light and push the clip in. The light unit just releases and pops out. Super easy and zero damage.

That's the coldest I've experienced. -16c overnight temperatures when we were in Winterberg in Germany once. We were in our old Peugeot 306 1.9D and still had a 50/50 diesel/veg oil mix. Boy did that take some cranking to get started in the morning. Then drive straight to the fuel station to top up with diesel!