Phil-E

People have used the boot lights with success. Yes they are controlled from the computer. But they are not monitored for bulb failure. They are simply fed a live 12v+. It's the bulb failure monitoring that messes up the camera since the current is monitored by the computer and there is constantly pulses of power transmitted even when the light is off (hence why LEDs can sometimes flash.

If you already have your power wires through to the boot then you could also tap into one of the boot lights. I've heard this is a good source for it. And thanks for the tip of the power from the wiper motor. I've got a camera on the way and will be fitting it asap once it arrives.

The gearbox bases it's shifting decisions on power, torque, load, revs, throttle input etc etc that is largely reported by the ECU. If the tuner know what they're doing they should be tuning it to report false power and torque information. If they don't do this then the gearbox will get the real (much higher) info from the ECU and since this may very well go above the gearboxes official torque limit (although still safe) the gearbox will tell the ECU to reduce the torque.

And what method was used to set the oil level? How much did you put in etc?

Yeah I figured 32gb was enough since I won't be storing any music on it. I play music via Bluetooth or I had a spare 240GB SSD and USB enclosure so I have that plugged in with a load of music and videos on. The full canbus integration was a nice surprise as it didn't actually show this or go into any detail about it. I had to delve into the hidden settings and find some code on Google though to access the CAN settings first.

I paid 178,99€ but it was from a German seller (since that's where I live): https://www.ebay.de/itm/Autoradio-Navi-Fuer-Skoda-Octavia-08-09-10-11-12-2013-Android-GPS-USB-DSP-2-32G-/383809536210?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 You can get them cheaper on eBay from China sellers but they are often 1GB of RAM and 16GB storage. Quite often it seems they also lie about their android versions (they say Android 9 but it's actually 8.1go at best). This one actually is 2GB/32GB and actually has Android 10 with full Google apps and play store support etc. Not sure about the Superb as maybe the trim is different.

I bought a cheap 12v coolbox but can't remember the brand name. I ended up modifying it slightly as I wasn't impressed by the performance. It only had very thin polystyrene foam inside the walls with massive gaps on the corners and near the edges. So I installed extra sheets of silver insulation that has a thing layer of like bubble wrap inside. Also installed some in the lid and under and around the warm air vent. Also the fan would just run and full speed all the time. Which meant the temperature of the air coming out inside was never actually that cold. I fitted a little fan speed controller from a PC so I could turn the fan down. This massively increased the performance since the air was much colder coming out. It also meant we could run it 24/7 without annoying fan noise since it was now silent. Used it once while camping in 30c+ temps and it kept everything lovely and cool 😁

I'm thinking the only way to do it would be by drawing the power to charge the battery via the cars existing wiring (12v socket for example). This way the car "sees" the current being drawn and will continue to kick out power via the cars battery and alternator. I'm thinking a 12v plug attached to a 12v charge controller and plug it into the boot socket (assuming you have one). The only downside being is you're going to be limited to the charge current. You'd need a charge controller that's not going draw more than 10a ideally. A solar panel is also a great idea to supplement the power usage and top-up the battery whil it's not being drained. 100w+ would be recommended to make it worth while.

And it required no coding. It worked straight away with the canbus and displays climate, the vehicle information, doors open and turns on and off with the key properly. It also shows up in the Maxidot like the factory stereo. If you have parking sensors it will also display those in the screen.

I just installed an Android stereo. I originally had the basic Swing stereo. See my post here for some pixtures etc: I've ordered a reversing camera (from China as I wanted one without the static parking lines since the stereo can display the dynamic lines that turn with the steering wheel which is cool). I've also ordered a DAB receiver for it. And then got to work out the aerial. I've bought a passive aerial and an FM/DAB amplifier/splitter. So I'll replace the roof aerial for the passive (since the standard active doesn't pass thorough the DAB frequencies). I've also ordered some pins for the quadlock connector so that I can hopefully make use of the factory aux in socket in the armrest.

Yup. They're cheeky and say that up to 1l per 1000km is withing tolerance. But that's just crazy. In my experience of many different engines they've all used basically no oil between 10,000 mile changes or very little. The worst being my previous 1.9 PD105. When driven hard (driving to Germany springs to mind) I would usually have to top up with around 1/4 of a litre across 2000km at worst. If you're using up to 1l per 1000km then you're having to buy nearly 15l of oil a year just to top-up... And by which point you can save the cost of new oil and just screw a new filter on since all the oil is still new!

No it was also fitted to many VWs but not just the 180bhp version. There was a 140 and 160 bhp version and they both used the twin charger design. But they suffered loads of issues such as oil consumption, piston rings, timing chains, super charger pulleys, water pumps leaking, failed intercooler heat exchangers etc. And yes the lower powered 122ps version as fitted to the MK2 Octavia and Superb was far more reliable.

Copied directly from the VIN information for my car (German spec of course): "Leuchtweitenregulierung,autom.dynamisch mit AFS II" So it apparently had AFS II but only AFS was enabled and not the "II" 😂🤣 I had to change the coding to enable the city mode etc.

The higher powered 1.4 TSI suffers from piston ring wear too. I've also seen a few videos on YouTube from mechanics on this (also German). One where they'd bought a 1.4 TSI (160bhp I think) and the piston rings were shot. And there's a very good YouTube channel called Die Autodoktoren (the Car Doctors). The older guy is actually a Brit but he's lived there so long he's completely fluent. They did 1.8 TSI and a 2.0 TSI. Same problem on both.

I can only assume then that your car hasn't been properly sorted and fixed then. I've heard that post-fix the problems are completely cured. I had a Golf 1.5 TSI ACT DSG for a few days last year. It was brand new and didn't have any cold start problems or kangerooing. Although I believe the problems mainly affected manual transmission cars anyway.

Is AFS activated on the MK3? On the MK2 they were also listed as AFSII xenons but stupidly the AFSII functionality was never activated from the factory. They only did the self adjusting and turning as standard. The other features had to be activated with VCDS.

When ever I've changed the brake fluid in my cars it's come out nearly black. So I think there are other contaminants other than just water. Whether these have Ann affect on the braking performance etc I don't know. But it certainly didn't look healthy. I noticed a sticker inside the driver's door of my car the other day. Brake fluid is apparently due to be done again this year. In two mind whether to bother. It's obviously been done before so most likely still ok.

How long since the last oil change? And did you do it yourself or a garage?

If your car has Bluetooth then the module will be under the driver's seat. I'm not aware of the Bolero having a built in Bluetooth radio and requires a separate module. The stock location being under the driver's seat. Might be hidden under a panel.

They only do the dance when the engine is started. So lights on (or are on as it's dark), then start the engine and then they do the dance.

There's actually a road that I use regularly to our house where this comes in handy. Since it's a dark road that runs parallel with a railway line. Cars park on the right and on the left are houses, a path and driveways and side roads (where people tend to come flying out of since it's a funny road where traffic merging from the right has priority over the main road. Since the headlights are usually illuminating the right hand side, having the extra light towards the left really helps. If nothing else but to throw additional light towards the side roads so cars see you sooner.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Telephone_Retrofitting Have a look here. Try and avoid the rSAP modules. They basically connect to the SIM card in the phone and establish their own mobile connection. A lot of them don't support 3g and 4g either. You want that supports HFP (Hands Free Protocol) and A2DP (Bluetooth Music streaming). The wiring kit you need then doesn't need that little GSM aerial. I got a wiring kit with just the harness and microphone and only paid like 30 or less for it.

The Columbus shouldn't need a wiring harness since the Swing and Columbus both use a quadlock connector.

On my LHD car my left headlight drops down and to the right (into the oncoming traffic). So this sounds like the complete mirror image of what the RHD cars do. It's perfectly normal and the light sits low enough that it doesn't dazzle oncoming cars. The point being is that in the city (since it's city mode) while driving slowly you don't need as much light pointing far ahead of the car but it's more advantageous to illuminate the sides immediately In front of the car to help show pedestrians etc better.

Actually. Looking into it, if your car is a facelift Fabia then it should have the 2.0 canbus already.