smokinmonkey

OK I totally under estimated the mileage. 178k Also just bought the DPF app and it's showing 73.8g of ash and 92% full. Could this be causing the issues I've described?

2.0 TDI 150 hp Will update post Edit: seems I can't update the original post

Hi, I've have this Octavia for the last 6 or so years. Current mileage: 170k+ (might be 172 or 175 I can't remember lol) Have had the alternator refurbished and battery replaced in the last few years. Serviced every year with oil, oil filter, and fuel filter always changed. For the last year or so it's had random starting problems (a hard start every few weeks), it's always started but sometimes it will turn over a few too many times and seem like it won't start, and then it does. More recently it's happening now (like once a week, instead of every few weeks). On the most recent occurance it turned over maybe 10 plus times, then started and a small amount of smoke came from the exhaust. The dash also displays "start stop system unavailable" or "lane guidence unavailable". I read about dashcams causing battery problems and I installed one a few months ago, it's not hardwired, but stays constantly plugged into the USB port and only powers up when the car is switched on. I wondering if there's anything I can do / try / test before going to my mechanic. I've also attached a read out from car diagnostics that I had a friend just do. Thanks.

Hope you got the airbag sorted. For anyone reading, disconnect the negative terminal of your battery before removing the seats. And put the seats back / reconnect all wires etc before reconnecting the battery. This will save you from having to reset the airbag light. Also some airbag systems have capacitors which take a while to discharge, so I would disconnect the battery about 30min before removing the seats just to be sure. You can clean the dash / the boot etc in this time flif you're removing the seats for cleaning purposes.

Any guide or tips on how to remove the entire unit? I've got mine "opened up" where I can see the circuit board for the switch etc but would like to remove the entire unit and try to repair

Hey Stuart, All sorted now, had just bought the new matrix to fit myself (following the video of the guy fitting wrong first time lol) when the same pipe went again! Had to get recovered and brought to mechanic, so he fitted the new matrix, expansion tank and coolant pipe when they all arrived. The heat in the car is now warm within about 3-4 minutes of running vs when I bought the car I always thought it was slow to warm up the air. The silica bag has probably been leaking slowly for 3-4 years as this is a night and day improvement on heater warm up time.

Had my clutch replaced by an independent Skoda mechanic for £440 labour. I supplied all parts, including new cylinders etc. Replaced everything. Edit: 2015 manual Scout

Hi, I'll try to explain the situation as quickly as possible. 2 weeks ago I was driving on motorway, the driver side heating went ice cold, and passenger side went cooler. Then a while later, both sides were ice cold. Then pretty soon after low coolant light / beeping started and I hit the hard shoulder immediately. (BTW I noticed a "slight" difference in heat before the motorway breakdown. Driverside was cooler before coming up to heat ages after the passenger side). Had 5L with me as I have a phantom "coolant leak" and need to top it every few weeks. Filled it up and started engine to have it dumped out on the ground. Needed recovered, the problem was a hole in a plastic connector. Part was dealer only, local mechanic fitted and replaced coolant. Said the level might drop and to check / top up etc, which it did. Now since collecting the car the heat still isn't working properly. Luke warm on passenger side, cool on driver side. I read about the silica bag splitting and blocking the heater matrix. I've watched a video of the replacement and decided to do it myself. BUT... Both pipes on the heater matrix are hot? So does that not mean that coolant is flowing through OK? But all the other symptoms point to heater matrix as I read everyone saying that the core is blocked as the hot coolant enters the passengera "heating part" of the matrix first and the exits on the l drivers, so that's the cause of the temp difference from the vents, but both pipes down in the foot well behind the dash are hot? Any help / input would be appreciated.

Yes I'm 150bhp and 288mm

For anyone looking this info, I've got a 2015 octavia scout. I bought the 312mm as recommended here... wrong size. Mine takes the 288mm discs. I'd advise taking the wheel off and measuring to get your size.

Can you tell me if you just re-soldered the top of the pin so it matches the "good" pin. As you can see from my photos, one whole side of the switch mechanism on mine is corroded. I have tried cleaning it up with a small screwdriver and electrical contact spray but it didn't make a difference.

Hi all, So I just had a little argument with a trolley bay in Sainsbury's carpark. Basically turned out too tight in a tight space and caught the entire backdoor. No damage to any other panels. Would you look at trying to fix this large dent / scrape, or just look out for a 2nd hand door?

Yes that brings up the correct type of filter. The bosch I got is on this page: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/03n115562

I followed this video to reset the service reminders:

I bought this filter: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/7883369 Manufacturer part number:F 026 407 157 Manufacturer:BOSCH EAN number:4047025337946 Your car could be different? Mine was a filter insert. ^^ unscrew 1 and 3, replace 2, 4, and 5