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NikTheGeek

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Everything posted by NikTheGeek

  1. Min had split on a 2015 car with under 40k miles. I didn't video the removal, but do tell you how to take off the expansion bottle so that if you break the bag, it won't do any harm. HTH
  2. Can it be retrofitted to any DSG Octavia?
  3. You can lock the gearbox in park if there is too much pressure on the pin and forcing it to release can damage the cable. So use the handrake to hold *before* putting it in park.
  4. It's not to remove moisture since mix is probably 50/50 coolant/distilled water anyway. The coolant contains silica that coats the metal components preventing oxidation. This is lost over time so the silica bag replaces the lost silica so that the coolant can last the life of the car. Or ditch the bag and just replace the coolant after 5 years.
  5. I understand your warranty concerns, but the problem arises if the bag splits whilst under warranty and leaks silica into your coolant system and you don't realiase until after your warranty has expired. Then you face a £1000 bill to replace your heater matrix. Sure if I have an issue with corrosion inside my cooling system in the future, I might have to be prepared to have the argument, but the chances of that (with a coolant change every 5 years) are less than the chance of the bag destroying your heater matrix. I removed mine and I have a warranty and I'll just document a coolant replacement in a few years. Nick
  6. Hmm, I wonder what would account for it then? Fully serviced, 41k, just replaced the air filter, no known issues. Decent fuel (vpower). I work from home, so maybe my journies aren't long enough for a diesel to come in to its own... Nick
  7. Whilst I don't drive my car like I stole it, I don't hold back either, I am a "spirited" driver. I'll do 70ish not 60ish on a motorway, but most driving is A roads and country roads. I don't drive for economy but when I have taken it easy on the motorway I have seen in excess of 60mpg returned. My long term average mpg is 44 which I thought was suprisingly low. That's 44 on the computer though, not a spreadsheet. So I'm just curious, is anyone else getting similarly low figures from a 1.6 TD DSG? Nick
  8. Here is an Engineering Explained video explaining the reasoning behind it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKALgXDwou4&t=122s
  9. Ah, thats the worst thing you can do, aparently. Letting the car warm up slowly at idle creates more wear than just driving it straight away which lets the oil pressure and temperature build more quickly, protecting the engine. Honest, there's science behind it Obviously, don't thrash it.
  10. I road test and look at the car every time I drive it, so it's £184 for oil change and oil filter!
  11. Silly me. I assumed the air filter was replaced with every service, until I was looking at the details of the major service I'd just had, including cambelt and waterpump and noticed there was no air filter. So I checked last years and no air filter there either. So I checked the service schedule to find its only due at 6 years or 60k miles!! On cars I service myself, for the sake of £20 on an OEM Mann filter, I've replaced every year. I think its a bit tight of Skoda to only change at 6 years! Did everyone else know this? Is it just me? I've changed it now, so I'm looking forward to an extra mpg or two! Nick
  12. https://az749841.vo.msecnd.net/sitesengb/alv1/d300a459-5ef6-433f-a49f-65f3638efaa1/national-price-servicing-min.63862747c3e6286ede19bc446a023030.pdf That is the PDF from this link: https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price which states 5 years (or 50k miles) for the cambelt and water pump. NIck
  13. I'd remove the silica bag as a preventative measure on any car that had it and just face changing the coolant once every 5 years or so. Much better than a blocked heater matrix. Mine had started to split on my 2015 car so I'd caught it just in time I think...
  14. Before I face a big bill, would you do the service, cambelt and waterpump yourself if you had a warranty? Or for piece of mind should something go wrong, would have them done? So far, I've always had the service done to keep my warranty intact. But now I face a large bill for a major service, cambelt and waterpump. I gather, legally, warranty companies cannot insist you go to a dealer or independant and that if you can prove you have adhered to the service schedule (maybe by keeping receipts and taking pictures) you can service it yourself. Would you risk it or not? If it didn't have a warranty, I wouldn't be asking the question, I'd just do it. Cheers, Nick
  15. Hi Where's the thread with the speed camera updates so I can bookmark it or subsribe to it. I only did it once in August and there must be a new one by now, but I can't find the tread. I did search, but couldn't figure out a way to search just this forum. thanks! Nick
  16. I have no idea what that means, sorry! I have OBDEleven Anyway, look: What does this mean?
  17. Ah, yes I saw this thanks. But I don't have: That option is just not there.... nothing, nada, zilch. Which is odd as I have headlight washers!! Nick
  18. Don't know, never counted, but it seems a lot! I'm filling up the washer fluid a lot anyway. It's not the end of the world, I can live with it, I was just looking to change it. I'm just curious why I don't have the option in OBDeleven when I clearly have headlight washers. Does it matter that my car is 2015 (65 plate) maybe something changed? Nick
  19. No, sorry, I meant the headlights don't have to be on for the option to show in OBDeleven as it seems to think I don't have headlight washers when I do Nick
  20. Hi I tried to change the number of activations before the headlight washers kicked in from 10 to 20 OR change the delay so I have to hold the stalk for 2 seconds ie 0ms to 2000ms However, when I follow the various online instructions I've seen for VCDS or OBDEleven, I don't have the right options. And when I selected Frontwash (in german) it said "Not active". But I do have headlight washers and they work! What am I doing wrong? Anyone got a step by step? So far I have tried Select ‘09’ Central Electrics Select ‘Adaptation’ Scroll to ‘Scheinwerferreinigung’. Change the value under ‘SRA Verzoegerungszeit’ from ‘0 ms’ to ‘2000 ms’. Green tick to Confirm But I don't have a Scheinwerferreinigung option I also tried 1. Go to [09] Central Electronics 2. Go to Access permissions 3. Enter access code 31347 4. Go to adaptation channels 5. Front_Wash_Function 6. Change value, but get error Not available. And when I select Front_Wash_Fuction I get "Not Active" You don't have to have the headlights on or anything daft do you? thanks! Nick
  21. Anyone know the full details of Campaign 23AX? 2015 1.6 TDI DSG and from 2nd March, it has this campaign against it. It is an emissions-related campaign which is to do with the catalyst (they told me) reducing in effectiveness as the vehicle ages, resulting in increased emissions. So this is a software fix in the engine control module which they promise me, won't effect fuel economy!! Yeah, right! Anyone know anything about it? Thanks Nick
  22. I'm getting misleading information. On one hand, I'm told the 7 speed DSG is a dry clutch that is sealed for life and requires no maintenance. On the other hand, I'm told I have to change the oil every 40,000 miles. Which is it? thanks
  23. My engine warning light came on today. Luckily, being equipped with various diagnostic tools including OBD-Eleven, I diagnosed "Charge Air Cooler Coolant Pump". Now I have seen this error before when scanning using OBDEleven, but I've always cleared it and thought nothing of it as sometimes you see errors that are insignificant. However, this time, its thrown the engine warning light. So, what is it? I have a warranty, so I'm not so worried about that, just curious what it is and if I need to get it in before the warranty lapses. thanks! Nick
  24. I've done the hard bit tonight. I've fitted the camera in place of the boot switch. Routed the rca cable to the front of the car near the glove box. Now the wiring up bit. Firstly, each end of the rca plug has a little red fly lead. Which looks like it would be +12v. Except, the camera end also has a 12v socket and a supplied fly lead that plugs in to this with +12v and -12v red and black wires. So where do I take the 12v feed from and do I use the 12v socket at the camera end? Secondly, I have the right connectors for the head unit end, but which pins in which socket do they go in? Any help gratefully received as I'm nearly there

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