Roscio

Which ones?

What i found out till now is that only kw’s kit and b16 are for dcc cars, but these kits are not what i need and are expensive too. of course i need improvement over stock ones but also want to keep DCC, and i’m just finding out that there are (or could be) plug and play solutions that keeps OEM DCC working... have to take time to do some research b6 becomes interesting if compatible with dcc edit: b6 and b8 are for vehicles without electronic suspension control

ok, I misunderstood, I thought the B4 would eliminate DCC. Good news! Now I have to investigate how it can support DCC, this could be a good solution for me too. @F1sparks I would also think that it needs some coding.

I think that you have to do some coding. But thanks to @newbie69 thread i found this: With this module you shouldn't have to code

@JR RSIt looks like we all have the same shock unit 3Q0413031AK. This is mine: This is @newbie69's one: (I can see _Q0413031AK) So, if there are differences between L&K DCC and Sportline DCC, it has to be through software. Maybe it's set different due to the 10mm lower suspensions on Sportline?

There are cameras that record the license plate number and time you pass through every 5-10 km, calculating the average speed

if that was a 1000cc sportsbike then my car would probably be a 8-900 hp sleeper! jokes aside, it wasn't a sportsbike. I was entering the highway behind this guy riding a naked bike, he started pushing hard and so did I too. 2-3-4 gear from 30 to 160-170 kmh. Just few seconds of fun, then back to speed limit. Here in italy there is the "tutor" system that automatically calculates the average speed of each single car. To drive at 250 kmh you need a trip on the german autobahn

thought of the day: seeing a motorcyclist who after pushing hard on a straight road looks in the mirror twice because he can't believe you're still there is priceless.

Wow! Your answer was very exhaustive, I appreciate it very much! this is what I wanted to hear you say, now I know that even lowering 25mm is not excessive! Comfort mode I'm used to using it on the highway and if changing springs I'm afraid of having to give up this comfort. But, once again, you cleared up my doubts. This time I was a little vague, I meant another type of investment...obviously you can resell it or reuse it on a new car (if it fits). What I meant is that (apart from the safety that comes first of all) it is an investment in the driving pleasure, in knowing that you can rely on the brakes even if you exceed a little. Here in the hills there are some roads that I can now drive without feeling the fading brakes after a few turns, and this regardless of how many horses I can actually use. I also understand that it depends on where you live, which roads you usually travel on, whether bbk is a legal change or not, as well as many other personal factors. With OEM 340mm brakes you have a good stopping power, don't think that bbk is much better. On the first braking. What really changes is that bbk gives you the same stopping power even after repeated hard braking. Let me know if now you feel the car more understeering or oversteering, when you get a chance to try...

all this information is really interesting, you have done a remarkable job! until now I would have bet that the dcc sportline was the same as the l&k, but from your words it doesn't seem, I have to investigate. You lowered 20/25 mm in the front and 25/30 on the back, from the photos it looks very good. But how does it look in reality? I mean does it look like a lowered comfort sedan or does it look as a sport car? I ask because I have to find out best solution to me, and i’m afraid that if lowering more than 10/15 mm it will look sort of “ricer” car, but I have to say that from your pics I it look very good now, better than before of sure. And this is only for aesthetics. For handling improvement I think this is the way, but i’m curious to know how it will be when fully loaded. Did you try to set dcc in comfort mode? I know it is a expensive mod but you have to see it as an investment and not an expense!

I look forward to your feedback, it's a mod that sooner or later I will have to do too ...

@shyVRS245 the oil temperature range is the same: from about 94 to 105-106°. Although I believe that under certain conditions it can rise further . But I remember last summer during a 200 km trip on highway (35°c sunny day) oil temperature was 110-115° all the time.

Yes, in the headrest it does a good job but i had to remove it the third time I hit my head against it while fastening my daughter's belt 🤦‍♂️

No drone at all, I was very worried about it. There are two differences from the OEM sound that are difficult to hear through video: 1) at about 4000 rpm the downpipe resonates if accelerating gently (and this is a uncommon situation, so no problem) 2) turbo whistle is more present with new central resonator Yeah, I agree. I prefer to have exceeded in silence rather than in noise...but in the end I'm happy with the result! At least now you know that for going stage 2 or more you don't have to have a noisy car 😎

Ok, don't overdo it now 😂... Let's just say that we don't like unnecessary attention

this is exactly what I was hoping to hear

You hit the spot! For everyone who's curious about the sound, i've recorded a short clip (this video was taken on a closed road): Superb.mp4 1) start in D, normal mode 2) start in S, full throttle, normal mode 3) start in S, full throttle, sport mode

On your white Superb it matches perfect that black & white badge!

I have to admit that when i bought my 272 Superb I didn't have full knowledge of this 2.0 tsi engine. I had two other options: a new Audi A4 (2.0 TSI 185kw 4x4) or a 540i with 6.000 km on the clock. Superb was the cheaper one. And it was my wife’s option n.1 (after this i’m sure you’ll understand i only had the illusion of choice, but I like to think that the choice was mine anyway). I did not have much expectations from this engine, only because i didn’t know it’s potential. After first 1.500 km driven as slow as imposed by the manual, i got 18.4 sec on 100-200, not to bad related to my expectations, but not exactly exciting. So i went to my tuner, (he had already remapped my Octavia II 2.0 tdi 140), asked for a stage1 remap. Another 1.000 km driven and the 100-200 time was 12.5 sec, with an incredible 0-100 in 4,3 sec. Quarter mile in 12,52. So I started looking for information about my DNUA engine, and little by little I understood what I had really bought. I thought I should enjoy the full potential of the engine, and this idea crept into me. I wanted it to look as original as possible, especially in terms of noise, so I had first to find a catted downpipe, and for DNU engine i had to wait till october 2019 when Milltek made a downpipe for the new Audi S3 OPF with hjs 200cell cat. Then i searched for big turbo, i didn’t want to compromise so I chose the TTE535. It took quite a long time to find the right to me big brake kit, in the end the choice fell back on vagbremtechnic kit that includes 6 pistons AP calipers, floating 390mm AP rotors and DS2500 brake pads. For sure oversized for street use, but safety first. Note that this kit fitted perfect with Racingline R360 wheels without spacers. Due to covid-19 lockdown i had to wait till may, and then we started with: Millteck downpipe with HJS 200 cell cat TTE535 turbo Racingline R600, silicone inlet hose and inlet pipe Forge intercooler and silicone hose kit Autotech HPFP upgrade Racingline oil management system Dsg has been remapped but ecu map has to be completed, it’s taking more time than expected. Aside from the performance, for now the only thing i can say is about the noise: exactly what i wanted. Driving in D feels completely stock, so no unwanted attention while driving quietly in the city. But over 3.500 rpm it becomes music. Really, i didn’t know that this 4 cyl engine could sound pretty good. No pops and bangs, no dsg farts, just only the engine with a TTE535 whistle… almost intrusive, but lovely.